India, Land of the Uber Diva. The women we had the privilege to spend time
with in India embodied an ethos of giving back, of egolessness and
humanitarianism of stellar magnitude. It's a great responsibility to
try to do them justice. Moving
through India is constantly gorgeous, sometimes a dance with
frustration, but always a lesson in humility. Having known the country
for at least a
lifetime, Pramila Jayapal captures the complexities of her native
India Holly
by Pramila Jayapal
India — it is one of the most complex, overwhelming and rewarding countries in the world. It is the
land of the sensory, a country of vibrant colors and intense
contradictions. It is life uncensored and unsanitized, earthy
and dirty, glorious and golden. There are no stepping stones
in this country to take you gently and slowly where you must
go. Life doesn't permit it. You are forced to engage in life
here, to be stimulated by what you see and feel and think and
smell. In the discerning and differentiating of the mass of
people and sensory experiences is also the opportunity: to dig
deeper into yourself as a human being.
India is so many things to so many people. To try and
describe her in entirety is impossible, so let me introduce
you to my India: a place where pinks and reds and blues and
greens are expected to mingle, and color in the markets and
the clothes enlivens the landscape; where the smell of spices
and flower garlands permeate the winding, dark alleys and
busy, potholed streets; where the noises of animals and cars
pelt your ears and the pushing and shoving of throngs of
humanity force you to expand your own boundaries of personal
space.
This is my India too: village women with skins darkened
from the sun and weathered by winds, bent over gracefully in
the lush green rice paddies, coconut-oiled hair gleaming in
the sunlight; children, barefooted and bedraggled, delighting
in the ordinary days and surroundings because they do not know
to depend on other things; old men and women encircled by
generations of family who understand that some wisdom comes
only with age and that familial relationship — for better or
worse — is forever.
Grace, Poverty, Injustice And, finally, the last of my Indias: excruciatingly
unfair, despairingly ramshackle, unflinchingly confronting.
Poverty, discrimination and injustice are laid at your feet,
impossible to escape. No issue is clear; all are shaded by the
complexities of circumstance and the need for solutions that
topple long-standing social hierarchies and perspectives.
Injustice toward India's girls and women is no
different: They carry families and communities in their
strong, capable hands and seem to receive so little in return.
Yet, they are the ones who have told me laughingly that they
would never exchange their lives in the village for mine in
America, a life they see as fast and impersonal, devoid of
connection to others and to the earth.
Every morning, in villages across India, women spend
hours creating beautiful drawings outside the doors of their
homes, drawings of chalk and colored sand, of gathered flower
petals and grains. These drawings are a reminder of the
existence of grace, of possibility and of transience. Each
day, the drawings are washed or blown away — this must happen
for something new to be created again the next day. The women
who create them delight in the beauty of the present and the
possibility of the future. They create joy in simple ways that
nurture them through hardship.
From the Gut The difference between Indians and Americans, I once
said to a friend, is that Indians die thinking they should and
Americans die thinking they shouldn't. Later, the words kept
coming back to me and I realized that they neatly captured
much of the essence of the two societies.
The notion that we are supposed to die recognizes both
our limitedness and limitlessness as human beings. It accepts,
not questions, that the world extends beyond us and that we
are merely transient creatures on this planet — beliefs that
permeate everything in India from the mundane questions of
when the bus will come to the soul-searching questions of why
our lot is what it is. It allows for the existence of
spirituality — so paramount in Indian life — as well as
community.
In India, time exists to facilitate human interaction
rather than simply to measure the achievement of tasks.
Community — which we try so hard to create in the West —
emerges organically in India. Women come together to cook
around a sooty open fire, to carry buckets of water from the
village well, to talk about babies and husbands, about the
price of rice and the vagaries of weather, about the joy of an
upcoming marriage or the pain of losing the village's children
to the city. Indians exist in relationship with each other and
with the earth, constantly searching for answers to a physical
and emotional landscape that offers little clarity about why
we are here and what is possible.
India makes me speak from my belly instead of my head,
from the places where I feel and live and love and die. In
the end, this capacity to evoke emotion is India's greatest
gift.
Pramila Jayapal is a writer and activist. Her first book was Pilgrimage to
India: A Woman Returns to Her Homeland. She lives in Seattle with her
four-year-old son.