I took almost no make-up because I thought it wasn't allowed. And it isn't — officially. But MOST women wear some make-up, particularly eye make-up. It's like in Iranian movies — all acting is done with the face, particularly the eyes. Face is important.

Steve Marts

H: Ya, I've had the strangest desire to wear make-up, paint my toenails and streak to the mailbox since I've been in Iran. Nothing like a little Mullah restriction to make a girl feel rebellious. Bobbi Brown will have a field day here once the economic embargo comes down. Then again, the U.S. and Iran can trade luxury goods now — caviar, Persian rugs and pistachios…make way for make-up!

M: Clothes — I think it is wise to take one all black cover-up, that is, scarf & manteaux, for meetings with officials as a sign of respect. I noticed that Persheng always wore black to official meetings. Otherwise, conservative colors are OK. Tourists can get by with stuff locals can't (I saw the most horrendous-dressed bunch of Italians getting off a bus in Shiraz. That's a first — badly dressed Italians!), however we need to be as inconspicuous as possible. So it's best to dress conservatively.

H: Forget it. I tried for the first few days but it felt like fashion fascism, plus, there are lots of ladies testing the boundaries in their pedal pushers and fitted smocky things. This is no time for statements. It's 120 degrees. But don't worry, I'm properly veiled. Can't film from prison…

M: I think we should have light cotton manteaux made for you. You can't buy them there. For some reason they don't sell pure cotton in Iran; everything contains synthetics — which is hot. We also need to find you weighted cotton scarves — anything so you don't have to tie them under your chin. It's awful.

H: Those manteaux you had made were simply hateful. Sorry to say. We were ridiculed by our Iranian crew as quite possibly the most conservatively dressed people in the country. WHAT were you thinking? We dashed to the store and bought some polyester stuff that was a step up.

M: The basic under outfit: cool, loose pants, sandals are OK (I saw locals with bare feet in sandals but no leg showing — and toenail polish is a no-no but saw that, too. I recommend a loose tank top. Many days I just wore a cotton undershirt. Scarf — white will reflect heat and is quite OK.

H: I'm seeing some leg. Guess we hung out in different neighborhoods. Or, leg begets leg…

M: Never put your hand out to shake hands with a man. Once, when I did it instinctively, the guy put his hands up and backed away like I had the plague. Another time, a guy hesitantly shook hands with me and then he and P. were talking Farsi and laughing — later she told me that she'd told him she appreciated his shaking hands with me and not embarrassing me.

H: Boy cooties!

M: Take disposable washing stuff; those cloths you just dampen are good (Olay). Baby wipes come in handy, too.

H: Thanks mom.

M: We ate everything, drank everything, including tap water, and nobody got sick. Even though Mrs. L., the first night, told us not to eat anything but chicken and never drink the water and eat an entire raw onion with every meal.

H: Ka-bob ka-bob ka-bob…that's all I can find to eat around here…and always to the drones of Kenny G. or the 'Titanic' theme.

M: All interior air travel is cheap — $30 tix are typical. Hotels are inexpensive mostly because your two (or three) local crew members will stay for $20 at a hotel where you pay $70. Taxi and driver is typically $20 per long day. But I think you will need a mini-van and that will definitely be more.

H: Guess what? The gossip is that they won't let CNN correspondent Christian Amanpour (talk about a diva!) back in the country because she did a story on television that showed some Iranians drinking alcohol. Pulled her visa. So, we got her driver. How 'bout that? We've arrived. And those planes, In the Name of God, we should really start trading with Iran again so they can replace those 40-year-old Boeing parts. Rickety.

M: Money is confusing. One dollar is about 8,000 rials. But locals speak mostly in tomans — which is a rial with a zero lopped off. So 2,000 rials (.25) is 200 tomans. Persheng is very thrifty, always bargaining everyone down. She was constantly pissed at Steve for giving 10,000 rial note tips, which he did once he figured out that is was just a shade over a dollar.

H: Ya, I'm pretty confused about the whole money thing but I keep pulling out U.S. dollars, which are happily accepted (wads strapped on my calves through customs since we can't get cash or use credit cards here). The almighty dollar comes through again. In fact, there are people trading them all over the street. Three years ago that use to call for a prison sentence, I hear…