For two thousand years, the Chinese have been making magic with tofu, and it was centuries ago that they spread the curd word to Korea and Japan. Today, tofu figures into some of the world’s most beguiling dishes—from tongue-searing mapo tofu to sundubu jjigae, a roiling Korean stew, to that delicate izakaya staple, agedashi tofu. If tofu still suffers a bad reputation in some Western circles, that’s likely due to two things. The first is that some supermarket ’fu is really bad! The second? We’re not using it in dishes that really showcase its finer qualities.