Cochinillo Asado (Roast Suckling Pig)

For Jake and Brett in "The Sun Also Rises," dining in Madrid means only Casa Botín, the oldest continuous restaurant in the world. This recipe is adapted from the Casa Botín.

6 servings

1 8-to-10 pound suckling pig
1/2 pound lard
2-3 sprigs fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
2 cloves garlic
1 small onion
1 cup dry white wine
2 1/2 cups water
Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Have your butcher butterfly the pig, or do it yourself by opening the underside, leaving the backbone and the head intact. Rub the skin with the lard and season with salt and pepper. Place the pig in a large clay casserole, skin-side down. Chop the herbs, garlic and onion and spread evenly across the body of the pig. Pour the wine and water into the casserole. Place the casserole in the oven and cook for 45 minutes. Drain off the extra liquid and melted fat and roast for another 45 minutes. Turn the pig over, skin-side up, and roast for another 30 minutes, or until golden and crunchy. Pour off the juice and serve it in a gravy boat. Pig may be accompanied with a salad or surrounded with roasted potatoes.

Alternative: To truly recreate the wood stoves at Botín's, use an outdoor grill and add pine or ash wood chips to the coals.

Excerpted from The Hemingway Cookbook by Craig Boreth (c) Craig Boreth 1998. Used with permission of Craig Boreth.