The Meaning of Food | Comfort Foods | Pasta with Don Giovanni’s Tomato Sauce

Pasta with Don Giovanni’s Tomato Sauce
Serves 6 to 8 as a first course; 3 to 4 as a main dish

5 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
12 large fresh basil leaves, torn
1/4 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1/8 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil
3-1/2 pounds mixed ripe delicious tomatoes, possibly peeled and cored (do not seed), or 2 28-ounces cans of whole tomatoes, drained
1 pound modest-sized maccheroni such as gemelli, strozzapretti, cassareccia, zita, or penne; or substantial string pastas: perciatelli, spaghetti, linguine, or bucatini
6 quarts salted, boiling water

There is no fiddling with this sauce. Everything goes into the pot (but do use the size called for—it’s important), it cooks for 30 minutes, rests for 15 and is done. It reheats beautifully and can live in your freezer for six months (which is where I always have a stash).

Italian cooks make this sauce with unpeeled fresh tomatoes or canned ones, passing it through a food mill once it’s cooked. My preference is for a more rustic juicy sauce with bits of tomato, so I puree it in a blender or food processor. Only if fresh tomato’s peel is tough or bitter do I peel them. This is a matter of personal choice.

1. In a 4-quart saucepan combine garlic, basil, onion, salt, pepper and oil. Heat over medium high 1 minute, no more. Add tomatoes, breaking them as they go into the pan. Bring to a lively bubble, uncovered, and cook 30 minutes, or until thick and the sauce is reduced by half. Stir often, watching for sticking or scorching.

2. Remove pan from heat, cover and let stand 15 minutes. Italian cooks pass the sauce through a food mill removing seeds and any skin. I prefer working the sauce in a blender or food processor until in small pieces.

If desired, cool and refrigerate up to 4 days, or freeze up to 6 months. Cook the pasta in fiercely boiling water until tender yet firm to the bite. Toss with hot sauce and serve immediately. Grated cheese is an option.