June 3, 2006 | Episode 22
Rice: the primary ingredient in sake.
Real Simple Television Productions Inc.
PBS.ORG EXTRA
Understanding Sake
Japan's national drink made easy
What Is It?
Sake is a fermented beverage made from four ingredients: rice,
water, yeast, and koji (an enzyme that radiates fermentation), with an
average alcohol content of
14 to 17 percent. Although many people call it a rice wine, sake is
actually closer to beer because it is made from a grain (not a grape)
and it is brewed (not distilled). Within the last few years, sake has
become increasingly popular in the United
States.
The Most Common Types of Sake
• Junmai-shu: This standard,
non-premium sake has the earthy flavor of rice,
says sake sommelier Eric Swanson, who has consulted on the sake lists
at the restaurants Masa, in New York City, and Shibuya, in Las Vegas.
Junmai-shu is great to drink with sushi because its uncomplicated
flavor doesn’t mask the delicacy of raw fish, says Swanson. “A heavier,
sweet sake would overwhelm the nuanced experience of eating sushi,” he
says.
• Junmai Ginjo: This is premium sake, with some added alcohol. It tends to have a slightly sweeter, more fruity and floral flavor than junmai-shu, and it’s less acidic than junmai. Those characteristics particularly pair well with lightly seasoned seafood, says Swanson.
• Junmai Daiginjo: This is
ultra-premium sake (also with some added alcohol). The rice is
highly milled before
brewing, resulting in a smoother, cleaner, and more
refined flavor. "It has more pronounced fruity and floral
characteristics
than ginjo,” says Swanson. Swanson recommends daiginjo sakes with
meats, especially steak, because its refinement pairs nicely with
heartier flavors.
What to Look For on a Sake Label
• Date: “The most important
thing is the date of production. I always look for sake that’s less
than a year old,” says Rocky Aoki, founder of the Benihana restaurants
and the RKA Saké Club. “Sake is not like wine, where it gets
better with age — the fresher, the better.”
• Category:
Ginjos and daiginjos are particularly popular in the United States,
says Swanson, because their fruity and floral elements resemble those
of wine more than other types of sake. “So a basic rule is always look
for the word ginjo on the list or label, whether it be ginjo or
daiginjo, because it will be something fairly light and smooth and
somewhat fragrant and interesting, and most likely something you will
enjoy it,” says Swanson.
• Region:
As a rule of thumb, sakes from the north of Japan are clean and light;
sakes from
the southwest of Japan are a little richer and more flavorful; and
sakes from the south of Japan tend
to be a little heavier, says Swanson. “So if I’m having a lighter
cuisine, I like to pair it with northern sakes. If I’m eating something
that’s a little oily, I pair it to the southern sakes,” he says.
How to Drink It
Hot, warm, or cold? “There is no correct temperature for drinking sake,” Aoki says. “So go with what you like.” He does recommend keeping the season in mind. “During the hot temperatures in the summer, nothing is better than chilled sake to freshen up,” he says, adding that hot sake is a great winter warmer.
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