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FEATURE:
Tradition of Hats in the African-American Church
February 13, 2004    Episode no. 724
Read This Week's November 7, 2008
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BOB ABERNETHY, anchor: We celebrate this week an African-American tradition that blends high fashion, deep spirituality, and respect for ancestors. It is the practice by many women of wearing elaborate hats to church. A recent book called CROWNS told the hats story, and it has become a stage musical now on tour. Our correspondent is Bob Faw, of NBC News. He begins his story on stage.

Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): Fur hat, velvet hats. You name it -- I like them all.

Photo from Crowns BOB FAW: Remembering, understanding, and honoring hats. You know, those artful concoctions -- of fabric, feathers, and whatnot -- celebrated in the play "Crowns," off-Broadway and in regional theaters.

Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): Hats should be simply decorated. Now some women think the more stuff you can fit on your head, the better.

FAW: Fussed over, treasured, even coveted, by women of all ages.

Hats do conceal. But mostly they reveal a great deal about those who wear them -- and their world.

Every Sunday, in scores of American churches, faith and fashion unite.

Photo of woman wearing hat On display are hats of every description -- from the demure to the why'd-you-have-to-sit-down-in-front-of-me variety. Like other women here, Andrea Young doesn't just wear a hat to church -- she continues the tradition of making a statement.

ANDREA YOUNG (Parishioner): Hats have been a wonderful expression of black women's beliefs in themselves even when the messages from society were quite different.

FAW: Hats are so prominent, so vital here because it's the heritage: the African tradition of adorning the head for worship. Slave women, for example, would cover their heads with bandanas, giving them that special touch by decorating them with wildflowers.

Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): After slavery, there were whites-only signs everywhere. So if you'd have something to show off -- and be in style -- you'd wear it in church!

FAW: Especially after Emancipation, says the author of the book CROWNS, Craig Marberry.

Photo of CRAIG MARBERRY CRAIG MARBERRY (Author, CROWNS): Hats became an instant symbol that you have arrived, that you are on your feet. The hats became more and more flamboyant because the more trinkets and adornments that you could add to your hat, you were really saying, "Look how God has blessed me."

FAW: In the book, which inspired the play, Craig Marberry interviewed 53 women who described how they wear hats to honor tradition -- and God. Women like Margaret Ginyard.

MARGARET GINYARD (Parishioner): My grandmother told us, God said cover your head with a hat -- doesn't necessarily have to be a hat -- just cover your head when you come into the house of the Lord.

FAW: Respecting God and asserting oneself, says the proud owner of 60 hats.

Photo of CAROL GARDNER CAROL GARDNER (Parishioner): Hattitude. It's the way it makes you feel when you walk in. You're not properly dressed unless you have a hat on.

FAW: The play "Crowns" honors that tradition. And others.

Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): Mama would make hats from the same material as our dress. They were plain. But I was very proud to wear what Mama made.

FAW: Just the way Margaret Ginyard's mother did 70 years ago in Talladega, Alabama.

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Ms. GINYARD: From feedbags she would make our hats -- put starch in 'em and stiffen. That's how we got started with hats.

FAW: Now when she displays her finery, she also remembers those first hats.

(to Ms. Ginyard): They were special, even then?

Photo of MARGARET GINYARD Ms. GINYARD: Very special. Very special. And we thought we were special.

FAW: Being "special," by showing respect. Or by standing out. Hats, you see, can do both.

Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): When I hat shop, I look for a hat with just the right amount of stuff on it. A hat looks good when it just jumps out. That's what you call a hit-ya hat.

You wet this, then pull it and steam it, until you get the shape.

FAW: For the last sixty years, Washington, DC milliner Vanilla Beane -- yes, that's her real name -- has been creating hats.

Photo of Beane and Faw (to Ms. Vanilla Beane): When you start out, do you know where you're going?

VANILLA BEANE: No, you just keep adding and taking off, and if you make a mistake, you cover it up with something.

FAW: Going strong at 84, she's learned a hat has to be displayed, just so.

Ms. BEANE: You always kind of cock it to the side.

FAW: With the right attitude, she says, any hat can be worn to church.

Ms. BEANE: Yes, you could wear this to church, this is not too much.

FAW: Whatever the color, however festooned on Sunday morning when Reverend A. Knighton Stanley looks out and sees all those hats, he knows.

Photo of woman wearing hat Reverend A. KNIGHTON STANLEY (People's Congregational Church): I'm of that generation when African-American women wore hats, they meant business! So there is a kind of moral authority in hats. So when I look out and see those hats, it's frightening.

FAW: Hats, you see -- simple or elaborate, are always more than what they seem.

Mr. MARBERRY: It is not just about self-glorification. It is about glorifying God in this tradition.

Photo of woman wearing hat FAW: Which explains why this play is both joyful and respectful.

Lynda Gravatt (From Play, "Crowns"): Never touch my hat. Admire it -- from a distance!

FAW: Which explains why for these performers, all of them churchgoers, this is more than just a play.

LYNDA GRAVATT (Actor): It's always a spiritual experience to do this piece. Because part of honoring your ancestors has to do with your spirituality. And you have to be able to tap into that, and once you tap into that and are fed by the spirit of your ancestors, it can only be a spiritual experience for you.

FAW: Hats. Part of who they were, and who they are.

Photo from the play Crowns Unidentified Woman (From Play, "Crowns"): When I get to heaven, gonna put on my crown.

FAW: A crowning glory, indeed. I'm Bob Faw for RELIGION & ETHICS NEWSWEEKLY.

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