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COVER STORY:
Nine Mile Canyon Dilemma
June 4, 2004    Episode no. 740
Read This Week's November 7, 2008
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LUCKY SEVERSON, guest anchor: Nine Mile Canyon is in Utah, and it has two important attributes. One is its thousands of sites of Native American carvings and drawings. The other is an unusual concentration of natural gas. Now, the federal government has given an energy corporation approval to do seismic exploration for that natural gas. And two weeks ago, a national trust named Nine Mile Canyon one of America's 11 most endangered historic places. As you can imagine, there is a sharp debate.

This is Larry Sasputch, a spiritual leader of the Ute Indian tribe, paying his respect to Mother Earth.

LARRY SASPUTCH (Spiritual Leader, Ute Indian Tribe) (Praying): We want to be able to tell your story.

Photo of Nine Mile Canyon SEVERSON: He's standing in Nine Mile Canyon in central Utah. For more than 1,000 years, North American Indians inhabited this canyon and left behind the highest concentration of Indian writing and rock art found in North America. It's been called the longest art gallery in the world, but it's much more than art to Larry Sasputch.

Mr. SASPUTCH: They call it rock art, because that's all it is to them. It's just like looking at our dances and stuff, that's entertainment -- it's art, and that's as far as they carry it. They don't understand the symbolism. They don't understand the spirituality. All they understand is what they see.

(Praying): ... all these good things, to the south ...

SEVERSON: He offers the traditional gift of tobacco to the spirits in the canyon.

Photo of LARRY SASPUTCH Mr. SASPUTCH: That's the first thing I do, is pray. I wouldn't even come close to these rocks until I've done that.

(Praying): ... you've taught us a lesson ...

SEVERSON: As he prays, the kind of development he fears will defile the sanctity of the canyon comes round the bend. Before long, there will be more 18-wheelers, more traffic as the drive for new energy development collides with the obligation to protect a sacred place.

The Bill Barrett Corporation, known as the BBC, has been given the green light by the government for seismic exploration on top of the canyon walls, searching for natural gas. Duane Zavadil is the company's manager for environmental affairs, and he says gas deposits here could be worth $2.5 billion.

Photo of DUANE ZAVADIL DUANE ZAVADIL (Manager of Environmental Affairs, Bill Barrett Corporation): There's just a very few precious places where the geologic conditions have conspired to allow a concentration of natural gas to occur at a point where it's economically extractable. This is a very rare area in those terms.

JERRY SPANGLER (Archaeologist): I think the risk to Nine Mile is too great.

SEVERSON: Jerry Spangler is an archaeologist who has written a new roadside guide to the sacred sites of Nine Mile Canyon. Like others, he worries that the rumble from the seismic testing and the trucks and the dust will damage the carvings and drawings.

Photo of rock art Mr. SPANGLER: Nine Mile Canyon, you know, is unlike any other place I've ever read about, let alone known about. We know of approximately 1,000 sites in Nine Mile Canyon today. We think we have maybe 5 percent identified; that's absolutely amazing.

Mr. SASPUTCH: Now, see, something like this has a lot of symbols that look more Pueblo.

Mr. SPANGLER: We're talking about an irreplaceable treasure. Natural gas is something we need as a society. It's a clean-burning fuel, and I generally support the exploration for natural gas, but at what sacrifice?

SEVERSON: But Barrett Corporation officials insist that their state-of-the-art seismic trucks won't damage the images on the canyon walls. The trucks could drill as many as 5,000 shot holes.

Mr. ZAVADIL: The root of that tree shaking in the wind generates more ground motion than our seismic shoot at a distance of 10 to 20 feet.

Photo of drilling SEVERSON: Even though the seismic exploration will take place on the canyon rim, the compressor stations -- this is a new one behind me -- and the road the trucks will take to get up to the top are located in the canyon.

Mr. SPANGLER: What we're talking about now is an industrial presence.

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SEVERSON: Critics say the greatest danger to the canyon will be the heavy road traffic, as many as 21,000 trips. And they say there is another way -- another old road that the company could use to bypass the canyon.

Mr. SAVADIL: As of right now, there's no way we could bring the drill rigs, the oversize trucks, those kinds of vehicles across the road that accesses this area to the south.

Photo of JERRY SPANGLER Mr. SPANGLER: It would require them to drill a little farther to reach the resource, and they would have had to do some road construction to improve that road up over the pass. Too much money. They wouldn't do it.

SEVERSON: The company is spraying the canyon road with magnesium chloride, which will reduce the dust damage from all the traffic. But not enough for Lane Miller.

LANE MILLER (Utah Rock Art Association): I've been coming here for 25 years. I came here this morning, hiked around for about an hour, and found two new sites.

SEVERSON: That's him up there, climbing back down the canyon wall.

Photo of LANE MILLER Mr. MILLER: This is my church. This is where I come for Sunday service. It's just a special place. And we need to get some domestic production, but let's not do it in places like this. It's inappropriate. It's just stupid.

Mr. SASPUTCH: It's really how native people think. Everything is connected to the Creator. This here is our church. These cliffs, they're as high as any cathedral. They're all natural. They're what God put here. All those other churches and cathedrals -- that's man-made. This is already here.

SEVERSON: Larry Sasputch believes Nine Mile Canyon is as sacred as any cathedral or holy site anywhere in the world. But many Native Americans living on reservations have no idea what this canyon holds or what's going on here.

That may be why no tribe has joined the several environmental organizations who are suing to stop the seismic exploration, although the Bureau of Land Management -- the BLM -- which oversees Nine Mile Canyon has given tours to tribal leaders explaining what's happening.

Mr. MILLER: Here's another buffalo, a pregnant buffalo; you can see the baby inside.

Photo of rock art SEVERSON: Lane Miller's Utah Rock Art Association joined in the suit, concerned, he says, not as much about the Bill Barrett Corporation as the BLM's fast-track approval of the project.

Mr. MILLER: I think there's a directive from Washington to maximize and rush gas development, and so they're just going wherever the gas is.

Mr. SPANGLER: The public involvement and comment period and everything is just kind of a perfunctory, going through the motion of complying with federal law, but the decision has already been made.

SEVERSON: BLM spokesperson Julie Howard says there is pressure from the top, but only to streamline the approval process.

Photo of JULIE HOWARD JULIE HOWARD (Spokesperson, Bureau of Land Management): With the oil and gas energy development push through this administration, I think that the area has been highlighted. I think that we do feel pressure of getting the job correctly, of actually doing it in a timely manner. I think we do feel pressure.

SEVERSON: The Bill Barrett Corporation finds itself caught between a rock and a hard place, between perception and reality, according to Duane Zavadil.

Mr. ZAVADIL: I've been doing this job for 20 years, and the last four years have been the most miserable four years, in terms of being able to get things done, that I've experienced. The opposition, due to the perception of the administration pushing an energy agenda, really mobilized a lot of folks.

SEVERSON: And Larry Sasputch finds himself caught between the past and the future.

Photo of Larry Sasputch Mr. SASPUTCH: I'm a modern Indian. I have a vehicle. I have to have gas for my car. I have to have natural gas, propane, for heating my home. I don't understand everything about what they're saying on these rocks. It was another time, but those messages are as pertinent today as they were yesterday. They talk a pretty talk about taking care of them, but the bottom line is that dollar.

SEVERSON: The seismic exploration around Nine Mile Canyon should begin next month. If all goes as projected, the drilling would supply enough natural gas for 300,000 residences for 25 years.

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