
2001
Expedition

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Community Profile:
Yakutat
Gazette
The community of Yakutat is
tucked among a collection of striated glaciers at the mouth
of Yakutat Bay. The town has one of the few safe harbors
along the Alaska Gulf coast, a crescent of wild and
unprotected water. In the 20th century, the Hubbard Glacier,
located at the northernmost end of Disenchantment Bay,
advanced so quickly it created an ice dam in Russell Fjord.
Sea animals, including whales, were imprisoned in a large,
ice-locked saltwater lake.
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Yakutat
(Photo by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
Click
image for a larger view.
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Location: Lat. 59E 33'N,
Long. 139E 44'W
Area: 5,875 square miles
Population: 744
Industry: Fishing, fish processing, government,
subsistence
Access: Air, sea, summer ferry
Alaska Native Affiliation: Yakutat Tlingit
Alaska Native Regional Corporation: Sealska
Corporation
Weather: Average summer temperatures range between 42
and 60 degrees, winter between 17 and 39 degrees. Yakutat
has an astounding annual rainfall of 132 inches, and a
snowfall of 219 inches.
Historical Overview
- The area was first the home
of Eyak-speaking people from the Copper River area who
were later supplanted by Tlingits migrating northward up
the panhandle. The town continues to be the principal
winter village of the Yakutat Tlingits. Translated from
Tlingit language "Yakutat" means " a place where canoes
rest."
- In the late 18th century,
the French explorer Comte de La Perouse and the English
explorer George Dixon visited Yakutat. They were followed
by Russian and Spanish explorers looking for gold and
fur.
- In 1805, the
Russian-American Company, under the command of Alexander
Baranof, built a fort at Yakutat and set up sea otter
harvesting operations. Baranof staffed the fort with
Russian convict labor and enslaved Tlingits.
- That same year, the Yakutat
Tlingits raided and destroyed the fort, killing the men
and enslaving some of the women. The Russian-American
Company chose not to rebuild and only a handful of
European settlers stayed on.
- In 1887, the American
Commercial Company began a gold mining operation on
Yakutat's sandy beaches. At its height, mining yielded
$40 in gold per ton of sand, but a number of natural
disasters, including a tidal wave, stripped the sand of
its gold before miners could turn a substantial profit.
- In 1889, the Swedish Free
Mission Church came to Yakutat, opening a school and
sawmill.
- During World War II, the Air
Force built a runway that is still in use today. Some of
the military equipment can still be found on Cannon
Beach.
Harriman's 1899
Experience
- In 1899, Yakutat, was a
small community of about of about one hundred, mostly
Tlingit, a few Swedes at a mission. The Harriman party
pronounced the community "charming." Hearing that bears
were sometimes seen prowling the beaches, Harriman sent
out several hunting parties, but all came back empty
handed.
- In ice-choked Disenchantment
Bay, an inlet of Yakutat Bay, Tlingit Indians paddled up
to the Elder, carrying pelts to sell to passengers.
Harriman invited them aboard, and played a wax cylinder
recording he had made of Sitka Tlingits.
Economy
- Yakutat's local economy is a
mix of timber, fish, tourism and subsistence. A large
cannery closed in 1970, timber is also on the decline.
Subsistence now shapes a good part of the local economy
and culture, and the Tlingit population harvests salmon,
trout, shellfish, deer, moose, bear and goat.
- Principal industries in the
town are commercial fishing, fish processing and
government. One-hundred-and-sixty-eight people hold
commercial fishing permits. A cold storage plant is a
major private employer.
- Yakutat is accessible only
by plane in the winter. Groceries and other supplies,
brought by barge, can be delayed indefinitely because of
harsh conditions in the Gulf.
Community Issues
- As cruise ship traffic
increases in this part of the Gulf, so does the concern
for its effects on the community and the environment.
Yakutat made news in 2001 when local officials imposed a
"head tax" of $1.50 for every cruise ship passenger
visiting Yakutat Bay. The cruise ship industry did not
welcome this new cost, but town officials argued that
they need the money to maintain the facilities used by
the ships and the visitors. Roads, harbor services and
emergency equipment will be maintained by the new
revenues.
- A second issue is that of
environmental impact. The harbor seal count has declined
dramatically in the last 30 years; some counts indicated
that the 76,000 harbor seals in Alaska today represent a
drop of 85 percent in the population since the 1970s.
Though scientist have not found the specific cause for
the decline, some worry that cruise ship traffic and
discharge are adversely affecting pregnant seals.
- Currently cruise ship discharge is only minimally
monitored Alaska by the Coast Guard; local officials and the cruise
ship industry are engaged in negotiations about long-term measures to
protects.
(View
the Yakutat Village daily log entry)
(View
the Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier daily log
entry)
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