
Expedition
Log

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July 26, 2001
Souvenir Album:
Skagway
Images (click images for
larger view)
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Skagway is a
town given over almost entirely to tourism. Four
massive cruise liners dwarf the much smaller
Clipper Odyssey (center) in this view of the
docks, with the airport in the foreground. A fifth
giant cruise ship later in the day swelled the
town's population to more than 8,000 people; the
town's permanent population is less than 900. A
century ago, during the Klondike gold rush, as many
as 20,000 people lived Skagway, which was briefly
Alaska's largest town.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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The Klondike
Gold Rush National Historic Park occupies much of
modern Skagway, including historic buildings
ranging from the White Pass and Yukon Route
Railroad Depot to the Pantheon Saloon. The Park
Service also maintains the Gold Rush Cemetery
outside of town, where you can find the graves of
Frank H. Reid (the monument reads, "He gave his
life for the Honor of Skagway"), and Jefferson R.
Smith. A notorious but wealthy and powerful
entrepreneur (widely regarded as a swindler), Smith
was Grand Marshal of the Skagway Fourth of July
celebration in 1898; four days later, Reid killed
him in a gunfight. Reid, wounded in the battle,
died a few weeks later on July 20, 1898, and
grateful (not to mention fickle) citizens of
Skagway raised this monument in his honor.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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This tiny
one-room hut, so crammed with tourist-oriented gift
items that they even cover the roof, was once a
popular establishment of an entirely different
nature. Not so long ago, visitors came to this
"House of Negotiable Affection" to partake of one
of the rarest commodities in the overwhelmingly
male-dominated madness of the gold rush.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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In the middle
of a summer afternoon, Skagway's main street brims
over with tourists. At the end of the street, a
giant cruise liner blots out the view of the sea,
and few visitors pause to see the glory of the
mountains all around. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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A century
ago, Skagway visitors brought stray dogs and tired
horses to town, hoping to use them for dog sleds
and pack horses on their long journeys to the Yukon
gold fields. Today, visitors bring cell phones and
a fear of being out of touch with the "outside
world." Cyber cafes have popped up to help visitors
read their E-mail while they are busy vacationing
from their E-mail. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Easily the
biggest attraction in town is the White Pass and
Yukon Route Railroad. Originally built as a
speculative venture by an English company hoping to
cash in on the Klondike Gold Rush, the railroad
paid for its construction costs in the first 18
months of operation. Today the railroad
deliberately cultivates a 19th century look, except
for the diesel locomotives which pull the trains.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Started in
May 1898, the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad
was an engineering marvel, crossing deep gorges and
climbing the steep mountain sides to White Pass. By
July 1899, the railroad had reached Bennett Lake in
British Columbia, and pushed on to Whitehorse by
July 1900. The gold rush was over then, but the
railroad lives on, transporting tourists from
Skagway to Bennett Lake, and then back to Skagway.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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For those
athletic souls who would rather walk the White Pass
route, the way is marked by the debris left by the
gold rush hordes of a century ago This old rail car
was donated by the railroad as a hiker's shelter
near the top of the pass. (Photo by Jonas K.
Parker).
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Built during
the 1930s, this massive rotary snowplow was used to
help keep the tracks clear during the winter. It
later fell into disuse, but was restored by the
National Park Service and is on display in front of
the WP&YRR train depot in Skagway.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Most of the
day was filled with drizzle and light rain falling
from overcast skies. After the expedition ship left
Skagway and headed south, a band of sunlight opened
up over the Lynn Canal lighthouse in the evening,
just as dinner was being served. (Photo by Jonas K.
Parker).
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