
Expedition
Log

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August 3, 2001
Souvenir Album:
Chiswell Islands;
Kenai Fjords National Park
Images | Video
(click images for larger view)
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Part of the
Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, the
Chiswell Islands are in the Gulf of Alaska,
southwest of Kenai Fjords National Park. The
rugged, rocky islands can only be reached by ship,
boat or seaplane, and the steep cliffs and lack of
land mammals (including humans) have made the
islands an important nesting site for seabirds.
Notice the sealions on the ledge.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Earthquakes,
high tides and pounding seas have all combined to
sculpt the Chiswell Islands. This area of Alaska
has intense seismic activity, and the tortured
bedrock gives ample evidence of the lifting,
dropping, folding and grinding of immense forces. A
picturesque stone arch offers a prime example of
nature's artistic handiwork.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Black-legged
kittiwakes seem to favor almost microscopic
imperfections in sheer rock faces as preferred
nesting places. Though their coloration is similar
to that of gulls, kittiwakes are speedy, graceful,
even beautiful fliers, more prone to bursts of
speed than the almost effortless soaring common to
gulls. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Almost
invisible in the center of this narrow crack in the
cliff face, a horned puffin sits on its nest. In
this area, kittiwakes and puffins often nest in
close proximity, but the kittiwakes tend to pick
exposed rock faces, while the puffins prefer to
burrow into more sheltered cracks and clefts.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Sealions, a
common site along the West Coast, are incredibly
graceful, swift swimmers, but look very awkward and
"slug-like" on land. On the other hand, they are
incredible climbers, managing to climb on wharves,
buoys and other challenging man-made structures.
This group, resting on one of the Chiswell islands,
managed to climb a cliff face that would be a
challenge to a human with two hands and feet.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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The Chiswells
seem to rise up almost straight out of the sea,
with no horizontal beaches. Starfish and barnacles
don't seem to mind, displaying no trouble clinging
to vertical rock faces. These three starfish seem
as if they were designed to cling to the Zodiac's
red plastic gas tank. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Puffins,
except when they are nesting, spend nearly all
their time at sea. Their stocky bodies and powerful
wings allow them to "fly" with amazing grace -- and
speed -- underwater. Flying through the air is a
bit trickier, and they often have some trouble
getting airborne; when startled, they are more
inclined to dive and swim away than fly away. This
particular horned puffin is heading southwest,
apparently for Hawaii, though it is probably just
gathering food and will soon return to its nest.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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For those
with a taste of solitude, the Chiswell Islands on
an overcast, rainy day are almost perfect. Except
for the expedition ship and Zodiacs, the only thing
seen in any direction are a few islands and, far
off, indistinct shapes that might more islands, or
might be just clouds. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Aron Crowell,
an anthropologist with the Smithsonian's Arctic
Studies Center, discusses a house pit on the shores
of Harris Bay, in Kenai Fjords National Park.
Expedition members and the film crew add some color
to the wet forest scene. (Photo by Jonas K.
Parker).
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On Good
Friday, March 28, 1964, the second largest
earthquake ever recorded, with a magnitude of 9.2
on the Richter scale, shook a huge portion of
Alaska. Far away from the epicenter in College
Fjord, the land around Harris Bay dropped, and
these trees eventually died as salt water poisoned
their roots. (Photo by Jonas K. Parker).
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When he isn't
serving as the official Harriman Retraced
photographer, Kim Heacox is a renown wilderness
photographer. Ashore in Harris Bay, he impressed
his companions with his fearless climbing ability,
searching for a good photographic vantage point. (
(Photo by Jonas K. Parker).
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Sometimes a
picture is just a picture: even through rain and
drizzle, dim light and overcast clouds, Kenai
Fjords is heartbreakingly beautiful.
(Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Video
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The Chiswell
Islands are part of the Alaska Maritime National
Wildlife Refuge, and a noted bird sanctuary. This
sea cave, while not particularly attractive to
humans, is jammed with nesting seabirds, mostly
kittiwakes. The clip was taken from a Zodiac,
attempting to get closer to the cleft in heavy
swells. (QuickTime format, 320 x 240 pixels, 10
seconds, 1.6 megabytes. RealVideo alternative.)
(Photo by National Ocean Service, NOAA)
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