
Expedition
Log

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August 4, 2001
Souvenir Album:
Homer;
Anchorage
Images (click images for
larger view)
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Homer's Pratt
Museum, like many other institutions in Alaska,
made an exceptional effort to welcome the Harriman
Retraced expedition. This custom-made brochure,
along with custom-made baseball caps, was offered
to every participant. Like the museum itself, the
brochure is a clever mixture of the past and the
present, with cover photos of a traditional kayak
and Native dress and a very modern example of
Alaska art. In addition to traditional exhibits,
the Pratt has two extraordinary electronic exhibits
that use remotely-controlled video cameras to
"watch" bears at the McNeil River brown bear
sanctuary and the Gull Island seabird
rookery.
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The
Harrington Cabin is a one-room log cabin dating
back to 1935, and relocated to the Pratt Museum
grounds. It is typical of the dwellings used by
homesteaders in Alaska well into the 20th century,
and this particular cabin was used as a home until
the mid-1960s. Exhibits inside mention that
homesteaders led a simple, "rugged" life. (Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Iron stoves
like this were not only a homesteader's main source
of heat during Alaska's winters, but the only means
of cooking food. No other kitchen appliances were
either available or appropriate. The stove and the
energy needs of an earlier age are a stark contrast
to the Pratt's superb exhibit on the Exxon
Valdez oil spill, an offshoot of the energy
needs of the modern world. Using models, photos,
artifacts and text, the exhibit shows the popular
view, the oil industry view, and the scientific
view of what happened in 1989, when the nation's
largest oil spill blackened Prince William Sound.
(Photo by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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The
expedition stop in Homer also marked a large-scale
change in expedition participants. Roughly half
those on board left for home, replaced by new
arrivals eager to join the expedition as it
ventured into the Aleutian Islands and Russia.
After two weeks at sea, the quick flight to
Anchorage was somewhat disconcerting. (Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Some of the
greatest changes in Alaska are revealed in very
mundane ways. One hundred years ago, with Pax
Britannia ascendant and an aggressive United States
pushing out across the planet, "the future" was
written in English. In 2001, this airline safety
card is multilingual. (Photo by National Ocean
Service, NOAA).
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Alaskans are
aggressively independent, and even urban residents
of Anchorage, where half of all Alaskans live,
think of themselves more as frontier pioneers than
as city folks. Reminders of the Alaska frontier are
popular, such as this highly stylized puffin logo
for a chain of motels. Even less attractive
aspects, such as the infamous mosquitoes, are used
to promote Alaska and Alaskan businesses. (Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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Probably the
single most contentious issue in Alaska is how to
preserve the wilderness. Everyone recognizes that
the wilderness is Alaska's greatest strength, but
many want to exploit it -- for oil, for tourist,
and for other purposes. So how much wilderness is
enough? And how little can you have before it all
goes away? One of Anchorage's finest hotels has its
own answer: the wilderness can be preserved in
tidy, convenient display cases in the lobby. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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The original
Harriman Alaska Expedition made extensive use of
sea travel, as did the Harriman Retraced
expedition. Most of Alaska's commerce still travels
by sea. But impatient people tend to travel by air,
and the seaplane, in particular, has an almost
mythic status in modern Alaska. This lake next to
the Anchorage airport is actually controlled by the
airport; you can see the airport tower in the
center-left portion of the photo. (Photo by
National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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If one of the
big questions is "How much wilderness does Alaska
need?" a companion question might be "How much
civilization can the wilderness stand?" The lake
provides a convenient landing spot for rural pilots
visiting Anchorage, but urban Anchorage residents
-- and passing tourists -- have created a new
hazard. The needs of geese and seaplanes collide
quite literally, both here and throughout Alaska,
and trying to solve this and similar problems is
Alaska's main challenge in the 21st century. (Photo
by National Ocean Service, NOAA).
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