MullerHitchhiking Vietnam
Page 132

 
We walked over to find the funeral hut filled to bursting. Blue and white banners covered in ancient Chinese script hung on the walls and every flat surface was covered with bottles of homemade rice whisky with paper corks. An ancient shaman sat under the altar, dressed completely in black but for a sagging crown of brightly embroidered thread. The table in front of her was laden with offerings; stalks of dried herbs stuck haphazardly into a bowl of uncooked rice, murky bottles of unidentifiable liquids and a wobbling mound of pig fat. The old shaman laid a callused hand upon the head of a young Giay girl kneeling in front of her and began another round of tuneless chanting so deep that it reverberated in my chest like an over-amplified guitar. As she sang she tied a black thread around the girl's wrist, weaving the ends over and under each other in a complicated knot. When she was done the girl backed away, head down, and a wrinkled grandmother crawled forward to take her place. This time it was a bag of clothing that needed to be blessed, the items coming out one at a time for their bit of string and heavy-handed chant.

When it was over I rose to find the hostess and bid her good-bye. She turned out to be a tiny woman, bent into the shape of a question mark with age and wear. She smiled gently as I took her hand in mine.

"I'm so sorry about your loss," I said, feeling close to tears as I thought of the twilight years of her life, sad and lonely without her mate.

"No problem," she replied and gave my hand a shake to buck me up. She shrugged her shoulders, asked me if I had eaten my fill and bid me stay a while longer and warm myself by the fire. My mournful sympathy clearly made no sense to her. This was a party to celebrate the memory of her husband. I should eat until my legs could no longer support my belly, drink until I staggered, and honor the old man with merry words and joyful tales. Unless, of course, I was carrying my own, private burden of sorrow. She took my hand this time. Was something wrong?

I thought it over as I negotiated the slippery stones by moonlight and tried to remember which of the identical huts along the path was hiding my sleeping mat. I knew the death of an elder Giay called for a funeral and an immediate party, one that sometimes lasted for days. The family members, particularly the widow or widower, were responsible for the well-being of their guests. They were made to rush around, continually supplying drinks, slaughtering chickens and any other livestock foolish enough to come within cleaver-reach, and generally working themselves to exhaustion just when their pain and sorrow must have been at its peak.

And yet it made sense. During the first, critical days after a death, those left behind were surrounded by family, laughter, and friends. Their elaborate duties left them no time to wallow in grief. When the party was finally over and the guests took their leave, the widow was ready to tumble into bed with exhaustion, to slip into a deep and dreamless sleep. When they finally awoke, the healing process had already begun.

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