MullerHitchhiking Vietnam
Page 41

 
We arrived at the thundering highway and disembarked to wait for Chau at a roadside eatery. Fung tracked down a hammock with bloodhound accuracy and ordered an iced coffee from its comfortable folds. Chau showed up several hours later, reeking of whisky and wearing the dejected look of unsuccessful love. He had just enough energy to call for lunch, string up a hammock and topple into it. Fung looked at his watch and spread his hands helplessly. It was six hours of hard riding back up the road to our seaside village and there was only five hours of daylight left. "Tomorrow," he said.

"I'm going," I said, "by bus if necessary."

"No bus!" they informed me happily.

I got on my bike. Their faces fell. Fung slapped his forehead and muttered that he'd be an old man by the time we got back to Saigon. Chau closed his eyes and blew smoke out of flared nostrils. They talked briefly, came to an agreement between themselves, turned to me and said, "no".

I rode away.

It took them an hour to catch up. I saw them a mile back along the flat plain, Fung's shirttails flapping in the breeze, both of them pumping hard. I'd had a lovely ride, my body relaxing into the steady rhythm of the rotating pedals, savoring the freedom of the road. They arrived, puffing and furious and thin-lipped, accusing me of riding fast to keep them behind. They were right. They forced me off the highway at the first roadside eatery and ordered plate after plate of food and drink in retaliation. I had my first good meal in days and Ziplocked the leftovers against future guava nights.

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