{"id":17833,"date":"2019-01-04T11:13:07","date_gmt":"2019-01-04T19:13:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/independentlens\/?post_type=blog&p=17833"},"modified":"2025-02-14T10:25:51","modified_gmt":"2025-02-14T18:25:51","slug":"invasive-species-turned-into-sustainable-delicacies","status":"publish","type":"blog","link":"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/independentlens\/blog\/invasive-species-turned-into-sustainable-delicacies\/","title":{"rendered":"Invasive Species Turned into Sustainable Delicacies"},"content":{"rendered":"

by Claralyse Palmer<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n

Vegetarianism has become synonymous with environmentalism, the idea being that going meat-free saves not just animals but the planet (which certainly has some truth to it, especially when it comes to cattle). But the Independent Lens<\/em> film Rodents of Unusual Size<\/em><\/strong><\/a> presents sustainable eating as something more nuanced than total renunciation of animal products.<\/p>\n

Differences in a region\u2019s ecology and geography can compel sustainable eaters to embrace an unconventional, and even unpopular, diet. Rodents<\/em> depicts how, on Delacroix Island and throughout Louisiana\u2019s coastal wetlands, these differences have spurred consumption of dachshund-sized, semi-aquatic rodents.<\/p>\n

Enter nutria \u2013 twenty-pound swamp rats with carrot-orange teeth and a population so invasive that the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries gives hunters $5 for a nutria tail and $1 for a nutria heart. Originally brought to the area as a cheap alternative in fur fashion, the nutria population has since become entirely unmanageable. Their meal of choice? The plant matter and roots that physically hold swamplands together.<\/p>\n

\"mmmm

mmmm whole roasted nutria<\/p><\/div>\n

As nutria chomp away at Louisiana\u2019s natural vegetation, the surrounding communities are fighting to keep from literally falling apart. But the eradication of nutria is, as is the case with so many other invasive species, a futile cause; the rodents are so pervasive that they\u2019ve become inseparable from life in the area.<\/p>\n

This tension between native land and invasive species plays out across the globe. While nutria destroy coastal zones from <\/span>Oregon<\/span> all the way to <\/span>South Korea<\/span>, <\/span>feral hogs<\/span> cost Texans millions of dollars in agricultural damage, <\/span>Asian carp<\/span> threaten aquatic life throughout the Mississippi basin, and <\/span>bullfrogs<\/span> ravage ecosystems across the Pacific Northwest. Eliminating these species is biologically unfeasible; controlling them as they currently exist is near impossible. While eating nutria and bullfrog feels cringeworthy, there are conservationists and cooks alike who turn invasive species into edible, nutritious, and even tasty dishes as a way to mitigate this overwhelming environmental threat.<\/p>\n

Organizations like\u00a0Eat the Invaders and Can\u2019t Beat \u2018Em, Eat \u2018Em hope to sustain natural land by promoting consumption of invasives. \u201cThese invasive species are edible,\u201d explains Chef Philippe Parola, founder of Can\u2019t Beat \u2018Em, Eat \u2018Em. \u201cIt\u2019s all food, it\u2019s natural protein, and it\u2019s a shame to see it wasted.\u201d<\/p>\n

Instead of spending time and resources attempting to eradicate these species, Parola advocates for the creation of a commercial market for edible invasive products. To those who doubt this could make a dent in invasive populations, Parola references the story of Paul Prudhomme<\/strong>, a Louisiana chef who developed the explosively popular blackened redfish<\/strong> dish<\/strong> in 1980. Parola explains that demand for the dish rose so rapidly that \u201cwith that single recipe, Prudhomme almost eradicated the entire redfish species.\u201d (Redfish, which is not an invasive species but nonetheless demonstrates the impact a dish can have on the environment, has made a bit of a comeback<\/span> since then.)\u201cIt\u2019s all food, it\u2019s natural protein, and it\u2019s a shame to see it wasted.\u201d<\/pullquote><\/p>\n

Parola, who is originally from France but moved to Louisiana in the \u201880s, has worked extensively with the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries in an attempt to mainstream eating nutria. While regulations and stigmas<\/span> complicated any commercialization of a nutria-based product, Parola still has hopes to standardize the consumption of invasive species. His latest work has revolved around turning destructive Asian carp into commercialized \u201cSilverfin\u201d fishcakes<\/span>. Nutria, which Parola likens in taste to \u201cdark turkey meat,\u201d could be next if his Silverfin model is successful.<\/p>\n

Parola is essentially the lone champion in this effort to mass commercialize consumption of invasives. Total conviction in the viability of mass marketing invasive species isn\u2019t necessarily shared among conservationists and nature conservancy groups, but many do encourage eating these species as a part of assuaging the consequences of non-native population explosion. The Florida Keys\u2019 Reef Environmental Education Foundation<\/span><\/a> holds \u201c<\/span>lionfish derbies<\/span>\u201d<\/span> to kill and cook as many invasive lionfish as possible in a single day.<\/p>\n

Tom Kaye, Executive Director of IAE, explains that the cook-off began as a simple retirement party for a colleague, but has since become a community-wide event. \u201cOur goal is to raise awareness \u2013 we don\u2019t really think we\u2019re going to help eat our way out of the problem,\u201d he says. \u201cWe\u2019re just trying to increase awareness to the general public, to tell them that invasive species are out there and they do serious harm to ecosystems.\u201d With four culinary categories \u2013 meat, vegetarian, desserts, and beverages \u2013 the cook-off draws over 200 attendees each year and touts \u201ceradication by mastication\u201d as a way to help reduce the damage imposed by invasive populations.<\/p>\n

The logo fittingly features Dr. Kaye\u2019s invasive ingredient of choice \u2013 the bullfrog.<\/p>\n

\u201cBullfrogs are a major ecological disaster,\u201d says Dr. Kaye. \u201cMost people don\u2019t eat them anymore because there\u2019s that squeam factor with bullfrogs \u2013 same with nutria. Cooked well though, these things are really great.\u201d Every year, Dr. Kaye fries up a batch of cajun-seasoned, lightly-breaded fried bullfrog legs (see picture below)<\/em>. \u201cThey taste like chicken,\u201d says Dr. Kaye. \u201cAnd the kids are far more open to eating them than anyone else \u2013 if I have leftover legs, they\u2019re always the ones who finish them up.\u201d<\/p>\n\"cookoff\n

Past cook-off recipes have included crayfish etouffee, blackberry pies, and whole roast nutria. Andrew Esterson, a restoration ecologist at IAE, sees education and outreach as the most valuable assets in the effort to reduce invasive populations. \u201cIt is certainly a great idea to cook with invasive species, but a challenging one,\u201d he explains. \u201cEducation would go a long way. Perhaps if there was a demand for nutria it would start showing up at farmers markets or on the shelves at grocery stores.\u201d Esterson\u2019s first time cooking with an invasive species was for the 2018 Invasive Species Cook-Off, and he took home first prize in the meat category. His winning recipe? Nutria chile verde.<\/p>\n

\n

Claralyse\u00a0Palmer is a writer, trombonist, avid music freak, and cheese-eater based in San Francisco, who works at ITVS.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

by Claralyse Palmer Vegetarianism has become synonymous with environmentalism, the idea being that going meat-free saves not just animals but the planet (which certainly has some truth to it, especially when it comes to cattle). But the Independent Lens film Rodents of Unusual Size presents sustainable eating as something more nuanced than total renunciation of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":17860,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1357,1877],"tags":[],"topic":[1253,1255,1219],"class_list":["post-17833","blog","type-blog","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beyond-the-films","category-lifestyle","topic-climate-change-2","topic-food","topic-health-and-environment"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nInvasive Species Turned into Sustainable Delicacies | PBS | Independent Lens<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Aside from nutria (as seen in "Rodents of Unusual Size"), what other animals and plants are invasive to the point of being environmentally destructive--and can be pretty damned tasty if cooked up? 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