Edwardian Cartier Tuxedo Set, ca. 1915
My dad was from a farming community in Peebles, Ohio. My relatives moved there in the late 1700s. He hated the farming industry, he hated being a hick, and he went to the one gentleman in town that taught him how to be more refined. He came out to San Diego in 1931 or 1932, when he was 16 or 17, liked the city, went back, told his brothers and his parents he was moving there, went to the gentleman that had polished him a little bit, and the gentleman either gave him this set or he purchased it. We don't know exactly. I remember as a child seeing it in the '50s. My father passed away in '69, my mother passed away last year, and I found it in my mother's belongings.
Well, it's interesting that you say he wanted to be a more refined gentleman, because what we have here is definitely refined. This is a gentleman's Edwardian cufflink and stud set from Cartier. These were made in the early part of the 1900s. We know that as the Edwardian era. It's about 1915. What we have is a 14-karat gold cufflink with carved rock crystal. In the center are platinum settings with rose-cut diamonds; a sugarloaf, which means a rounded top, sapphire. This is a cufflink. This is for the shirt stud. This is for the gentleman's vest button. These little hooks secured these in place. The cufflink, of course, went through the cuff button, but the piéce de résistance is the fact that you have the original box. The box is marked "Cartier, Paris, London and New York." On closer examination, the 18-karat gold cufflinks have French hallmarks on them, so we know they were made in France and brought to America. Now, this is the top of the line.
Did he ever wear the set?
Yeah, he wore it all the time in the '40s. He liked to dress up. He had tuxedos, and he would wear it.
In a luxurious retail setting, this set would bring $12,000 to $15,000.
(laughing) Oh... oh!
At an auction, it could go even more.
This is absolutely fabulous. My dad would be really, really pleased. (laughs)
Executive producer Marsha Bemko shares her tips for getting the most out of ANTIQUES ROADSHOW.
Value can change: The value of an item is dependent upon many things, including the condition of the object itself, trends in the market for that kind of object, and the location where the item will be sold. These are just some of the reasons why the answer to the question "What's it worth?" is so often "It depends."
Note the date: Take note of the date the appraisal was recorded. This information appears in the upper left corner of the page, with the label "Appraised On." Values change over time according to market forces, so the current value of the item could be higher, lower, or the same as when our expert first appraised it.
Context is key: Listen carefully. Most of our experts will give appraisal values in context. For example, you'll often hear them say what an item is worth "at auction," or "retail," or "for insurance purposes" (replacement value). Retail prices are different from wholesale prices. Often an auctioneer will talk about what she knows best: the auction market. A shop owner will usually talk about what he knows best: the retail price he'd place on the object in his shop. And though there are no hard and fast rules, an object's auction price can often be half its retail value; yet for other objects, an auction price could be higher than retail. As a rule, however, retail and insurance/replacement values are about the same.
Verbal approximations: The values given by the experts on ANTIQUES ROADSHOW are considered "verbal approximations of value." Technically, an "appraisal" is a legal document, generally for insurance purposes, written by a qualified expert and paid for by the owner of the item. An appraisal usually involves an extensive amount of research to establish authenticity, provenance, composition, method of construction, and other important attributes of a particular object.
Opinion of value: As with all appraisals, the verbal approximations of value given at ROADSHOW events are our experts' opinions formed from their knowledge of antiques and collectibles, market trends, and other factors. Although our valuations are based on research and experience, opinions can, and sometimes do, vary among experts.
Appraiser affiliations: Finally, the affiliation of the appraiser may have changed since the appraisal was recorded. To see current contact information for an appraiser in the ROADSHOW Archive, click on the link below the appraiser's picture. Our Appraiser Index also contains a complete list of active ROADSHOW appraisers and their contact details and biographies.
Broadway's Best on PBS
Fiddler: Miracle of Miracles; One Man, Two Guvnors; Irving Berlin's Holiday Inn, and Lea Salonga in Concert.