AUGUST
11th, 1989

Day
four in the Yura village, Manu National Park. These
people are definitely the least contacted of any Yura
that I have met. They are so curious that they ask
questions non-stop. It's difficult for me to even get
clothes out of my pack; they all want to see what is
inside. I try and do it at night, when the Yura are
sleeping in their hammocks. Last night didn't get much sleep as
the men were taking ayahuasca, a
powerful hallucinogenic drug, quite near to where I was
sleeping. In fact, a group of men has taken ayahuasca
every night since I have been here. One reason is because
there is plenty of ayahuasca growing in the vicinity,
whereas near the mission town it has all been used up. It
was probably three in the morning or so before the last
of the men stopped singing and I went to sleep.
Yabidawa
asked me if I wanted to join in, but with the interviews,
censuses, etc., I have been pretty tired since I arrived.
Besides, ayahuasca has a powerful effect. If you're
tired, it's like taking a mental roller coaster without a
seatbelt. I hear that adolescent Yura are afraid when they
first start taking ayahuasca, and that's very
understandable. The visuals are so impressive that our
best IMAX theaters seem like kids' play in comparison. I
noticed Yabidawa today readying a collection of ayahuasca
roots to take with him when we go back.
A group of
Yura whom I had never seen arrived today carrying woven
baskets filled with turtle eggs. They had gone by foot
and canoe down the Manu River, collecting turtle eggs
from the beaches as they went. So tonight was a turtle
egg feast, and everyone in the village was industriously
boiling up as many of the little oily eggs as fast as
they could get their hands on them. There was also a
tapir shot in the forest, and some of the Yura are going
out to bring it in tomorrow.
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