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Mt Mc Kinley above Wonder Lake, evening. Denali National Park. Photo by QT Luong.

Denali National Park

Mount McKinley, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park, 1942, Bradford Washburn photograph Add to Scrapbook

Mount McKinley, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park, 1942, Bradford Washburn photograph

The highest point on the North American continent is in Alaska and reaches a spectacular 20,320 feet above sea level. The local Athabaskan Indians reverently called the perpetually snow-covered mountain Denali, "The High One." But in 1896, when the region was still marked as "unexplored" on official maps, a prospector dubbed it Mount McKinley, after the presidential candidate he happened to be supporting.

By 1903, the allure of being the first to scale the continent's tallest summit had attracted a handful of adventurers. Frederick Cook, president of the prestigious Explorers Club, claimed that he had made it to the top in two weeks. It was later discovered that he was lying. In March 1910, two prospectors dressed in overalls and unlined parkas, with a bag of doughnuts and a thermos of hot chocolate as provisions, planted an American flag on McKinley's North Peak. Three years later, a team led by Hudson Stuck, Alaska's Episcopal archdeacon; Harry Karstens, an experienced local outdoorsman; and Walter Harper, the son of a fur trapper, made it all the way to the top of the taller South Peak.

Charles Sheldon, promoter of Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park Add to Scrapbook

Charles Sheldon, promoter of Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park

Naturalist Charles Sheldon first began promoting the idea of making McKinley a national park. For Sheldon, what made the region unique was the teeming wildlife, including grizzly bears, moose, caribou, and the distinctive Dall sheep.

Sheldon had made two visits to the wilderness around Mount McKinley – one for an entire year – to observe the sheep. Back in New York, he told fellow members of the Boone and Crockett Club, including founders George Bird Grinnell and former president Theodore Roosevelt, that without protection, the wildlife near Mount McKinley would be slaughtered by trophy hunters.

Members of the Boone and Crockett Club swung into action and Sheldon moved to Washington, prowling the halls of the Capitol to push through a bill to make Mount McKinley a national park. On February 26, 1917, he personally delivered the bill to President Wilson for signing. Sheldon's only disappointment was that Congress, in creating Mount McKinley National Park, had ignored his repeated pleas to return the mountain to its original name: Denali.

Adolph Murie, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park, 1941 Add to Scrapbook

Adolph Murie, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park, 1941

Mission 66 visitor center, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park Add to Scrapbook

Mission 66 visitor center, Mt. McKinley (later Denali) National Park

In 1939, Park Service biologist Adolph Murie was sent to McKinley, where he embarked on the first in-depth study ever undertaken of wolves. Murie's report would become a landmark in understanding the species, which had been systematically eliminated in the Lower 48. It would be thanks to Murie, and the National Park Service's eventual ban on wolf killings, that the predator would survive in McKinley National Park.

In the mid-1950s, the director of the National Park Service, Conrad Wirth, began his 10-year "Mission 66" plan to expand visitor services throughout the park system. He was met with harsh criticism from many of the parks' oldest allies, who hated the increased development and the addition of what they considered ugly buildings. Murie opposed Mission 66 plans that called for widening and paving McKinley's 90-mile narrow gravel road and the building of a hotel, gas stations and visitor center. As a result of his opposition, Murie was reassigned to another park. When he was finally allowed to return to Alaska to continue his research, he was dismayed by the construction taking place. Eventually Murie's protests were heard and the National Park Service director stopped the roadwork where it was.

The Alaska Lands Act of 1980 would greatly affect Mount McKinley National Park, nearly tripling it in size by adding 2.4 million acres to the park itself, plus an additional 1.3 million acres in two adjacent national preserves. The original park was officially designated a wilderness area, bringing even greater protections to the land and animals Murie had championed. The park's name was changed to Denali, to reflect its deeper history.

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THE NATIONAL PARKS: AMERICA'S BEST IDEA is a co-production of

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