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The Journey of
Coronado
Part Two
Which treats of the High Villages and
Provinces and of their habits and customs, as collected by Pedro de
Castaneda, native of the City of Najara.
LAUS DEO
IT does not seem to me that the reader will be
satisfied with having seen and understood what I have already related
about the expedition, although that has made it easy to see the
difference between the report which told about vast treasures, and
the places where nothing like this was either found or known. It is
to be noted that in place of settlements great deserts were found,
and instead of populous cities villages of 200 inhabitants and only
800 or 1,000 people in the largest. I do not know whether this will
furnish grounds for pondering and considering the uncertainty of this
life. To please these, I wish to give a detailed account of all the
inhabited region seen & discovered by this expedition, and some
of their ceremonies and habits, in accordance with what we came to
know about them, and the limits within which each province falls, so
that hereafter it may be possible to understand in what direction
Florida lies and in what direction Greater India; and this land of
New Spain is part of the mainland with Peru, and with Greater India
or China as well, there not being any strait between to separate
them. On the other hand, the country is so wide that there is room
for these vast deserts which lie between the two seas, for the coast
of the North Sea beyond Florida stretches toward the Bacallaos and
then turns toward Norway, while that of the South Sea turns toward
the west, making another bend down toward the south almost like a bow
and stretches away toward India, leaving room for the lands that
border on the mountains on both sides to stretch out in such a way as
to have between them these great plains which are full of cattle and
many other animals of different sorts, since they are not inhabited,
as I will relate farther on. There is every sort of game and fowl
there, but no snakes, for they are free from these. I will leave the
account of the return of the army to New Spain until I have shown
what slight occasion there was for this. We will begin our account
with the city of Culiacan, & point out the differences between
the one country and the other, on account of which one ought to be
settled by Spaniards and the other not. It should be the reverse,
however, with Christians, since there are intelligent men in one, and
in the other wild animals and worse than beasts.
CHAPTER I.
Of the province of Culiacan and of its habits and customs.
CULIACAN is the last place in the New Kingdom of
Galicia, and was the first settlement made by Nuno de Guzman when he
conquered this kingdom. It is 210 leagues west of Mexico. In this
province there are three chief languages, besides other related
dialects. The first is that of the Tahues, who are the best &
most intelligent race. They are now the most settled and have
received the most light from the faith. They worship idols & make
presents to the devil of their goods and riches, consisting of cloth
& turquoises. They do not eat human flesh nor sacrifice it. They
are accustomed to keep very large snakes, which they venerate. Among
them there are men dressed like women who marry other men and serve
as their wives. At a great festival they consecrate the women who
wish to live unmarried, with much singing and dancing, at which all
the chiefs of the locality gather and dance naked, and after all have
danced with her they put her in a hut that has been decorated for
this event and the chiefs adorn her with clothes and bracelets of
fine turquoises, and then the chiefs go in one by one to lie with
her, and all the others who wish, follow them. From this time on
these women cannot refuse anyone who pays them a certain amount
agreed on for this. Even if they take husbands, this does not exempt
them from obliging anyone who pays them. The greatest festivals are
on market days. The custom is for the husbands to buy the women whom
they marry, of their fathers and relatives, at a high price, and then
to take them to a chief, who is considered to be a priest, to
deflower them and see if she is a virgin; and if she is not, they
have to return the whole price, and he can keep her for his wife or
not, or let her be consecrated, as he chooses. At these times they
all get drunk.
The second language is that of the Pacaxes, the
people who live in the country between the plains and the mountains.
These people are more barbarous. Some of them who live near the
mountains eat human flesh. They are great sodomites, & have many
wives, even when these are sisters. They worship painted and
sculptured stones, and are much given to witchcraft and
sorcery.
The third language is that of the Acaxes, who are in
possession of a large part of the hilly country and all of the
mountains. They go hunting for men just as they hunt animals. They
all eat human flesh, and he who has the most human bones and skulls
hung up around his house is most feared and respected. They live in
settlements and in very rough country, avoiding the plains. In
passing from one settlement to another, there is always a ravine in
the way which they can not cross, although they can talk together
across it. At the slightest call 500 men collect, and on any pretext
kill and eat one another. Thus it has been very hard to subdue these
people, on account of the roughness of the country, which is very
great.
Many rich silver mines have been found in this
country. They do not run deep, but soon give out. The gulf of the sea
begins on the coast of this province, entering the land 250 leagues
toward the north and ending at the mouth of the Firebrand (Tizon)
River. This country forms its eastern limit, and California the
western. From what I have been told by men who had navigated it, it
is 30 leagues across from point to point, because they lose sight of
this country when they see the other. They say the gulf is over 150
leagues broad (or deep), from shore to shore. The coast makes a turn
toward the south at the Firebrand River, bending down to California,
which turns toward the west, forming that peninsula which was
formerly held to be an island, because it was a low sandy country. It
is inhabited by brutish, bestial, naked people who eat their own
offal. The men and women couple like animals, the female openly
getting down on all fours.
CHAPTER II.
Of the province of Petlatlan and all the inhabited country as far as
Chichilticalli.
PETLATLAN is a settlement of houses covered with a
sort of mats made of petates. These are collected into villages,
extending along a river from the mountains to the sea. The people are
of the same race and habits as the Culuacanian Tahues. There is much
sodomy among them. In the mountain district there is a large
population & more settlements. These people have a somewhat
different language from the Tahues, although they understand each
other. It is called Petlatlan because the houses are made of petates
or palm-leaf mats. Houses of this sort are found for more than 240
leagues in this region, to the beginning of the Cibola wilderness.
The nature of the country changes here very greatly, because from
this point on there are no trees except the pine, nor are there any
fruits except a few tunas, mesquites, and pitahayas.
Petlatlan is 20 leagues from Culiacan, and it is 130
leagues from here to the valley of Senora. There are many rivers
between the two, with settlements of the same sort of people-for
example, Sinaloa, Boyomo, Teocomo, Yaquimi, and other smaller ones.
There is also the Corazones or Hearts, which is in our possession,
down the valley of Senora.
Senora is a river and valley thickly settled by
able-bodied people. The women wear petticoats of tanned deerskin, and
little sanbenitos reaching half way down the body. The chiefs of the
villages go up on some little heights they have made for this
purpose, like public criers, and there make proclamations for the
space of an hour, regulating those things they have to attend to.
They have some little huts for shrines, all over the outside of which
they stick many arrows, like a hedgehog. They do this when they are
eager for war. All about this province toward the mountains there is
a large population in separate little provinces containing ten or
twelve villages. Seven or eight of them, of which I know the names,
are Comupatrico, Mochilagua, Arispa, and the Little Valley. There are
others which we did not see.
It is 40 leagues from Senora to the valley of Suya.
The town of Saint Jerome (San Hieronimo) was established in this
valley, where there was a rebellion later, and part of the people who
had settled there were killed, as will be seen in the third part.
There are many villages in the neighborhood of this valley. The
people are the same as those in Senora and have the same dress and
language, habits, and customs, like all the rest as far as the desert
of Chichilticalli. The women paint their chins and eyes like the
Moorish women of Barbary. They are great sodomites. They drink wine
made of the pitahaya, which is the fruit of a great thistle which
opens like the pomegranate. The wine makes them stupid. They make a
great quantity of preserves from the tuna; they preserve it in a
large amount of its sap without other honey. They make bread of the
mesquite, like cheese, which keeps good for a whole year. There are
native melons in this country so large that a person can carry only
one of them. They cut these into slices and dry them in the sun. They
are good to eat, and taste like figs, & are better than dried
meat; they are very good and sweet, keeping for a whole year when
prepared in this way.
In this country there were also tame eagles, which
the chiefs esteemed to be something fine. No fowls of any sort were
seen in any of these villages except in this valley of Suya, where
fowls like those of Castile were found. Nobody could find out how
they came to be so far inland, the people being all at war with one
another. Between Suya and Chichilticalli there are many sheep &
mountain goats with very large bodies and horns. Some Spaniards
declare that they have seen flocks of more than a hundred together,
which ran so fast that they disappeared very quickly.
At Chichilticalli the country changes its character
again and the spiky vegetation ceases. The reason is that the gulf
reaches as far up as this place, and the mountain chain changes its
direction at the same time that the coast does. Here they had to
cross and pass through the mountains in order to get into the level
country.
CHAPTER III.
Of Chichilticalli & the desert, of Cibola, its customs and
habits, and of other things.
CHICHILTICALLI is so called because the friars found
a house at this place which was formerly inhabited by people who
separated from Cibola. It was made of colored or reddish earth. The
house was large and appeared to have been a fortress. It must have
been destroyed by the people of the district, who are the most
barbarous people that have yet been seen. They live in separate
cabins and not in settlements. They live by hunting. The rest of the
country is all wilderness, covered with pine forests. There are great
quantities of the pine nuts. The pines are two or three times as high
as a man before they send out branches. There is a sort of oak with
sweet acorns, of which they make cakes like sugar plums with dried
coriander seeds. It is very sweet, like sugar. Watercress grows in
many springs, and there are rosebushes, and penny-royal, and wild
marjoram.
There are barbels and picones, like those of Spain,
in the river of this wilderness. Gray lions and leopards were seen.
The country rises continually from the beginning of the wilderness
until Cibola is reached, which is 85 leagues, going north. From
Culiacan to the edge of the wilderness the route had kept the north
on the left hand.
Cibola is seven villages. The largest is called
Macaque. The houses are ordinarily three or four stories high, but in
Macaque there are houses with four and seven stories. These people
are very intelligent. They cover their privy parts and all the
immodest parts with cloths made like a sort of table napkin, with
fringed edges & a tassel at each corner, which they tie over the
hips. They wear long robes of feathers and of the skins of hares and
cotton blankets. The women wear blankets, which they tie or knot over
the left shoulder leaving the right arm out. These serve to cover the
body. They wear a neat well-shaped outer garment of skin. They gather
their hair over the two ears, making a frame which looks like an
old-fashioned headdress.
This country is in a valley between mountains in the
form of isolated cliffs. They cultivate the corn, which does not grow
very high, in patches. There are three or four large fat ears having
each eight hundred grains on every stalk growing upward from the
ground, something not seen before in these parts. There are large
numbers of bears in this province, and lions, wild-cats, deer, and
otter. There are very fine turquoises, although not so many as was
reported. They collect the pine nuts each year, and store them up in
advance. A man does not have more than one wife. There are estufas or
hot rooms in the villages, which are the courtyards or places where
they gather for consultation. They do not have chiefs as in New
Spain, but are ruled by a council of the oldest men. They have
priests who preach to them, whom they call "papas." These are the
elders. They go up on the highest roof of the village and preach to
the village from there, like public criers, in the morning while the
sun is rising, the whole village being silent & sitting in the
galleries to listen. They tell them how they are to live, and I
believe that they give certain commandments for them to keep, for
there is no drunkenness among them nor sodomy nor sacrifices, neither
do they eat human flesh nor steal, but they are usually at work. The
estufas belong to the whole village. It is a sacrilege for the women
to go into the estufas to sleep. They make the cross as a sign of
peace. They burn their dead, and throw the implements used in their
work into the fire with the bodies.
It is 20 leagues to Tusayan, going northwest. This is
a province with seven villages, of the same sort, dress, habits, and
ceremonies as at Cibola. There may be as many as 3,000 or 4,000 men
in the fourteen villages of these two provinces. It is 40 leagues or
more to Tiguex, the road trending toward the north. The rock of
Acuco, which we described in the first part, is between these.
CHAPTER IV.
Of how they live at Tiguex, & of the province of Tiguex and its
neighborhood.
TIGUEX is a province with twelve villages on the
banks of a large, swift river; some villages on one side and some on
the other. It is a spacious valley two leagues wide, & a very
high, rough, snow-covered mountain chain lies east of it. There are
seven villages in the ridges at the foot of this-four on the plain
and three situated on the skirts of the mountain.
There are seven villages seven leagues to the north
[i.e. of Tiguex] at Quirix, and the seven villages of the province of
Hemes are 40 leagues northeast. It is four leagues north or east to
Acha. Tutahaco, a province with eight villages, is toward the
southeast. In general, these villages all have the same habits &
customs, although some have some things in particular which the
others have not. They are governed by the opinions of the elders.
They all work together to build the villages, the women being engaged
in making the mixture and the walls, while the men bring the wood and
put it in place. They have no lime, but they make a mixture of ashes,
coals, and dirt which is almost as good as mortar, for when the house
is to have four stories, they do not make the walls more than half a
yard thick. They gather a great pile of twigs of thyme and sedge
grass and set it afire, and when it is half coals and ashes they
throw a quantity of dirt and water on it and mix it all together.
They make round balls of this, which they use instead of stones after
they are dry, fixing them with the same mixture, which comes to be
like a stiff clay. Before they are married the young men serve the
whole village in general, and fetch the wood that is needed for use,
putting it in a pile in the courtyard of the villages, from which the
women take it to carry to their houses.
The young men live in the estufas, which are in the
yards of the village. They are underground, square or round, with
pine pillars. Some were seen with twelve pillars and with four in the
center as large as two men could stretch around. They usually had
three or four pillars. The floor was made of large, smooth stones,
like the baths which they have in Europe. They have a hearth made
like the binnacle or compass box of a ship, in which they burn a
handful of thyme at a time to keep up the heat, and they can stay in
there just as in a bath. The top was on a level with the ground. Some
that were seen were large enough for a game of ball. When any man
wishes to marry, it has to be arranged by those who govern. The man
has to spin and weave a blanket & place it before the woman, who
covers herself with it and becomes his wife. The houses belong to the
women, the estufas to the men. If a man repudiates his woman, he has
to go to the estufa. It is forbidden for women to sleep in the
estufas, or to enter these for any purpose except to give their
husbands or sons something to eat. The men spin & weave. The
women bring up the children and prepare the food. The country is so
fertile that they do not have to break up the ground the year round,
but only have to sow the seed, which is presently covered by the fall
of snow, and the ears come up under the snow. In one year they gather
enough for seven. A very large number of cranes & wild geese and
crows & starlings live on what is sown, and for all this, when
they come to sow for another year, the fields are covered with corn
which they have not been able to finish gathering.
There are a great many native fowl in these
provinces, and cocks with great hanging chins. When dead, these keep
for sixty days, and longer in winter, without losing their feathers
or opening, and without any bad smell, and the same is true of dead
men.
The villages are free from nuisances, because they go
outside to excrete, and they pass their water into clay vessels,
which they empty at a distance from the village.
They keep the separate houses where they prepare the
food for eating and where they grind the meal, very clean. This is a
separate room or closet, where they have a trough with three stones
fixed in stiff clay. Three women go in here, each one having a stone,
with which one of them breaks the corn, the next grinds it, and the
third grinds it again. They take off their shoes, do up their hair,
shake their clothes, & cover their heads before they enter the
door. A man sits at the door playing on a fife while they grind,
moving the stones to the music and singing together. They grind a
large quantity at one time, because they make all their bread of meal
soaked in warm water, like wafers. They gather a great quantity of
brushwood and dry it to use for cooking all through the year. There
are no fruits good to eat in the country, except the pine nuts. They
have their preachers. Sodomy is not found among them. They do not eat
human flesh nor make sacrifices of it. The people are not cruel, for
they had Francisco de Ovando in Tiguex about forty days, after he was
dead, and when the village was captured, he was found among their
dead, whole and without any other wound except the one which killed
him, white as snow, without any bad smell. I found out several things
about them from one of our Indians, who had been a captive among them
for a whole year. I asked him especially for the reason why the young
women in that province went entirely naked, however cold it might be,
and he told me that the virgins had to go around this way until they
took a husband, and that they covered themselves after they had known
man. The men here wear little shirts of tanned deerskin & their
long robes over this. In all these provinces they have earthenware
glazed with antimony and jars of extraordinary labor and workmanship,
which were worth seeing.
CHAPTER V.
Of Cicuye and the villages in its neighborhood, and of how some
people came to conquer this country.
WE have already said that the people of Tiguex and of
all the provinces on the banks of that river were all alike, having
the same ways of living and the same customs. It will not be
necessary to say anything particular about them. I wish merely to
give an account of Cicuye & some depopulated villages which the
army saw on the direct road which it followed thither, and of others
that were across the snowy mountains near Tiguex, which also lay in
that region above the river.
Cicuye is a village of nearly 500 warriors, who are
feated throughout that country. It is square, situated on a rock,
with a large court or yard in the middle, containing the estufas. The
houses are all alike, four stories high. One can go over the top of
the whole village without there being a street to hinder. There are
corridors going all around it at the first two stories, by which one
can go around the whole village. These are like outside balconies,
and they are able to protect themselves under these. The houses do
not have doors below, but they use ladders, which can be lifted up
like a drawbridge, and so go up to the corridors which are on the
inside of the village. As the doors of the houses open on the
corridor of that story, the corridor serves as a street. The houses
that open on the plain are right back of those that open on the
court, and in time of war they go through those behind them. The
village is inclosed by a low wall of stone. There is a spring of
water inside, which they are able to divert. The people of this
village boast that no one has been able to conquer them & that
they conquer whatever villages they wish. The people & their
customs are like those of the other villages. Their virgins also go
nude until they take husbands, because they say that if they do
anything wrong then it will be seen, & so they do not do it. They
do not need to be ashamed because they go around as they were
born.
There is a village, small and strong, between Cicuye
and the province of Quirix, which the Spaniards named Ximena, and
another village almost deserted, only one part of which is inhabited.
This was a large village, and judging from its condition and newness
it appeared to have been destroyed. They called this the village of
the granaries or silos, because large underground cellars were found
here stored with corn. There was another large village farther on,
entirely destroyed and pulled down, in the yards of which there were
many stone balls, as big as twelve-quart bowls, which seemed to have
been thrown by engines or catapults, which had destroyed the village.
All that I was able to find out about them was that, sixteen years
before, some people called Teyas, had come to this country in great
numbers and had destroyed these villages. They had besieged Cicuye
but had not been able to capture it, because it was strong, and when
they left the region, they had made peace with the whole country. It
seems as if they must have been a powerful people, and that they must
have had engines to knock down the villages. The only thing they
could tell about the direction these people came from was by pointing
toward the north. They usually call these people Teyas or brave men,
just as the Mexicans say chichimecas or braves, for the Teyas whom
the army saw were brave. These knew the people in the settlements,
and were friendly with them, and they (the Teyas of the plains) went
there to spend the winter under the wings of the settlements. The
inhabitants do not dare to let them come inside, because they can not
trust them. Although they are received as friends, and trade with
them, they do not stay in the villages over night, but outside under
the wings. The villages are guarded by sentinels with trumpets, who
call to one another just as in the fortresses of Spain.
There are seven other villages along this route,
toward the snowy mountains, one of which has been half destroyed by
the people already referred to. These were under the rule of Cicuye.
Cicuye is in a little valley between mountain chains and mountains
covered with large pine forests. There is a little stream which
contains very good trout and otters, and there are very large bears
and good falcons hereabouts.
CHAPTER VI.
Which gives the number of villages which were seen in the country of
the terraced houses, & their population.
BEFORE I proceed to speak of the plains, with the
cows and settlements and tribes there, it seems to me that it will be
well for the reader to know how large the settlements were, where the
houses with stories, gathered into villages, were seen, and how great
an extent of country they occupied. As I say, Cibola is the
first:
Cibola, seven villages.
Tusayan, seven villages.
The rock of Acuco, one.
Tiguex, twelve villages.
These villages were below the river.
Quirix, seven villages.
In the snowy mountains, seven villages.
Ximena, three villages.
Cicuye, one village.
Hemes, seven villages.
Aguas Calientes, or Boiling Springs, three villages.
Yuqueyunque, in the mountains, six villages.
Valladolid, called Braba, one village.
Chia, one village.
In all, there are sixty-six villages. Tiguex appears
to be in the center of the villages. Valladolid is the farthest up
the river toward the northeast. The four villages down the river are
toward the southeast, because the river turns toward the east. It is
130 leagues-10 more or less-from the farthest point that was seen
down the river to the farthest point up the river, and all the
settlements are within this region. Including those at a distance,
there are sixty-six villages in all, as I have said, and in all of
them there may be some 20,000 men, which may be taken to be a fair
estimate of the population of the villages. There are no houses or
other buildings between one village and another, but where we went it
is entirely uninhabited. These people, since they are few, and their
manners, government, and habits are so different from all the nations
that have been seen and discovered in these western regions, must
come from that part of Greater India, the coast of which lies to the
west of this country, for they could have come down the river,
settling in what seemed to them the best place. As they multiplied,
they kept on making settlements until they lost the river when it
buried itself underground, its course being in the direction of
Florida. It comes down from the northeast, where they could certainly
have found signs of villages. He preferred, however, to follow the
reports of the Turk, but it would have been better to cross the
mountains where this river rises. I believe they would have found
traces of riches and would have reached the lands from which these
people started, which from its location is on the edge of Greater
India, although the region is neither known nor understood, because
from the trend of the coast it appears that the land between Norway
and China is very far up. The country from sea to sea is very wide,
judging from the location of both coasts, as well as from what
Captain Villalobos discovered when he went in search of China by the
sea to the west, and from what has been discovered on the North Sea
concerning the trend of the coast of Florida toward the Bacallaos, up
toward Norway.
To return then to the proposition with which I began,
I say that the settlements and people already named were all that
were seen in a region 70 leagues wide and 130 long, in the settled
country along the river Tiguex. In New Spain there are not one but
many establishments, containing a larger number of people. Silver
metals were found in many of their villages, which they use for
glazing and painting their earthenware.
CHAPTER VII.
Which treats of the plains that were crossed, of the cows, and of the
people who inhabit them.
WE HAVE spoken of the settlements of high houses
which are situated in what seems to be the most level and open part
of the mountains, since it is 150 leagues across before entering the
level country between the two mountain chains which I said were near
the North Sea and the South Sea, which might better be called the
Western Sea along this coast. This mountain series is the one which
is near the South Sea. In order to show that the settlements are in
the middle of the mountains, I will state that it is 80 leagues from
Chichilticalli, where we began to cross this country, to Cibola; from
Cibola, which is the first village, to Cicuye, which is the last on
the way across, is 70 leagues; it is 30 leagues from Cicuye to where
the plains begin. It may be we went across in an indirect or
roundabout way, which would make it seem as if there was more country
than if it had been crossed in a direct line, and it may be more
difficult and rougher. This can not be known certainly, because the
mountains change their direction above the bay at the mouth of the
Firebrand (Tizon) River.
Now we will speak of the plains. The country is
spacious and level, and is more than 400 leagues wide in the part
between the two mountain ranges-one, that which Francisco Vazquez de
Coronado crossed, and the other that which the force under Don
Fernando de Soto crossed, near the North Sea, entering the country
from Florida. No settlements were seen anywhere on these
plains.
In traversing 250 leagues, the other mountain range
was not seen, nor a hill nor a hillock which was three times as high
as a man. Several lakes were found at intervals; they were round as
plates, a stone's throw or more across, some fresh and some salt. The
grass grows tall near these lakes; away from them it is very short, a
span or less. The country is like a bowl, so that when a man sits
down, the horizon surrounds him all around at the distance of a
musket shot. There are no groves of trees except at the rivers, which
flow at the bottom of some ravines where the trees grow so thick that
they were not noticed until one was right on the edge of them. They
are of dead earth. There are paths down into these, made by the cows
when they go to the water, which is essential throughout these
plains.
As I have related in the first part, people follow
the cows, hunting them and tanning the skins to take to the
settlements in the winter to sell, since they go there to pass the
winter, each company going to those which are nearest, some to the
settlements at Cicuye, others toward Quivira, and others to the
settlements which are situated in the direction of Florida. These
people are called Querechos and Teyas. They described some large
settlements, and judging from what was seen of these people and from
the accounts they gave of other places, there are a good many more of
these people than there are of those at the settlements. They have
better figures, are better warriors, and are more feared. They travel
like the Arabs, with their tents and troops of dogs loaded with poles
and having Moorish pack saddles with girths. When the load gets
disarranged, the dogs howl, calling some one to fix them right. These
people eat raw flesh and drink blood. They do not eat human flesh.
They are a kind people and not cruel. They are faithful friends. They
are able to make themselves very well understood by means of signs.
They dry the flesh in the sun, cutting it thin like a leaf, and when
dry they grind it like meal to keep it and make a sort of sea soup of
it to eat. A handful thrown into a pot swells up so as to increase
very much. They season it with fat, which they always try to secure
when they kill a cow. They empty a large gut and fill it with blood,
and carry this around the neck to drink when they are thirsty. When
they open the belly of a cow, they squeeze out the chewed grass and
drink the juice that remains behind, because they say that this
contains the essence of the stomach. They cut the hide open at the
back and pull it off at the joints, using a flint as large as a
finger, tied in a little stick, with as much ease as if working with
a good iron tool. They give it an edge with their own teeth. The
quickness with which they do this is something worth seeing and
noting.
There are very great numbers of wolves on these
plains, which go around with the cows. They have white skins. The
deer are pied with white. Their skin is loose, so that when they are
killed it can be pulled off with the hand while warm, coming off like
pigskin. The rabbits, which are very numerous, are so foolish that
those on horseback killed them with their lances. This is when they
are mounted among the cows. They fly from a person on foot.
CHAPTER VIII.
Of Quivira, of where it is and some information about it.
QUIVIRA is to the west of those ravines, in the midst
of the country, somewhat nearer the mountains toward the sea, for the
country is level as far as Quivira, and there they began to see some
mountain chains. The country is well settled. Judging from what was
seen on the borders of it, this country is very similar to that of
Spain in the varieties of vegetation and fruits. There are plums like
those of Castile, grapes, nuts, mulberries, oats, pennyroyal, wild
marjoram, and large quantities of flax, but this does not do them any
good, because they do not know how to use it. The people are of
almost the same sort and appearance as the Teyas. They have villages
like those in New Spain. The houses are round, without a wall, and
they have one story like a loft, under the roof, where they sleep and
keep their belongings. The roofs are of straw. There are other
thickly settled provinces around it containing large numbers of men.
A friar named Juan de Padilla remained in this province, together
with a Spanish-Portuguese and a negro and a half-blood and some
Indians from the province of Capothan, in New Spain. They killed the
friar because he wanted to go to the province of the Guas, who were
their enemies. The Spaniard escaped by taking flight on a mare, and
afterward reached New Spain, coming out by way of Panuco. The Indians
from New Spain who accompanied the friar were allowed by the
murderers to bury him, and then they followed the Spaniard and
overtook him. This Spaniard was a Portuguese, named Campo.
The great river of the Holy Spirit (Espiritu Santo),
which Don Fernando de Soto discovered in the country of Florida,
flows through this country. It passes through a province called
Arache, according to the reliable accounts which were obtained here.
The sources were not visited, because, according to what they said,
it comes from a very distant country in the mountains of the South
Sea, from the part that sheds its waters onto the plains. It flows
across all the level country and breaks through the mountains of the
North Sea, and comes out where the people with Don Fernando de Soto
navigated it. This is more than 300 leagues from where it enters the
sea. On account of this, and also because it has large tributaries,
it is so mighty when it enters the sea that they lost sight of the
land before the water ceased to be fresh.
This country of Quivira was the last that was seen,
of which I am able to give any description or information. Now it is
proper for me to return and speak of the army, which I left in
Tiguex, resting for the winter, so that it would be able to proceed
or return in search of these settlements of Quivira, which was not
accomplished after all, because it was God's pleasure that these
discoveries should remain for other peoples and that we who had been
there should content ourselves with saying that we were the first who
discovered it and obtained any information concerning it, just as
Hercules knew the site where Julius Caesar was to found Seville or
Hispales. May the all-powerful Lord grant that His will be done in
everything. it is certain that if this had not been His will
Francisco Vazquez would not have returned to New Spain without cause
or reason, as he did, and that it would not have been left for those
with Don Fernando de Soto to settle such a good country, as they have
done, and besides settling it to increase its extent, after
obtaining, as they did, information from our army.
The Journey of
Coronado continued
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