Ramses II built more colossal statues of himself than any other pharaoh did.
The largest of them once stood here, at his mortuary temple. Weighing over
1,000 tons and once standing nearly 60 feet tall, the seated Colossus of
Ramses II now lies broken on the floor of the Ramesseum, its pink-granite
blocks offering mute testimony to the mortality of even a spirit as undying
as Ramses the Great.
In 60 B.C., the chronicler Diodorus of Sicily claims to have translated the
hieroglyphic inscription on the statue's base: "King of Kings am I,
Ozymandias." [Ozymandias is the Greek version of Ramses II's throne name,
User-Maat-Re.] "If anyone would know how great I am ... let him surpass one
of my works." Such brazen self-aggrandizement earned him "Ozymandius,"
Shelley's famous poem, which mocks his aspirations to immortality.
The remarkable mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut lies nestled in the cliffs at Deir el-Bahari.
The mortuary temple of Hatshepsut lies snuggled in the Libyan Cliffs at Deir
el-Bahari. Half free-standing and half rock-cut, the temple features three
rows of colonnades rising ever higher into the cliff, various chapels to the
gods hidden in their roofed interiors. Quite unlike any other temple ever
built in Egypt, the "Holy of Holies," as Hatshepsut called it, was aligned
with her tomb across the hill in the Valley of the Kings. It was also
aligned with Karnak temple on the other side of the Nile (see March 10 1999
Hatshepsut reigned for 33 years. Like most pharaohs, she was anything but
modest and wrote of herself that "Her fragrance was like a divine breath,
her skin made of gold, it shines like the stars. She is a great marvel ...
She was selected for the protecting of Egypt ... for arousing bravery among
men ... She is ... forever and ever...."
Medinet Habu, the vast mortuary temple of Ramses III, stands like a sentinel on the edge of the desert.
To see what the Ramesseum might have looked like in better days, one need
look no further than the mortuary temple of Ramses III at Medinet Habu.
Known as "The Mansion of Millions of Years of Ramses III," the temple was
modeled after the Ramesseum, complete with a hypostyle hall whose reliefs
still bear traces of the bright colors with which these temples were
Like his famous namesake, Ramses III fought many epic battles abroad, which
he had his artisans celebrate on the walls of his "Mansion." The temple's
189-foot-long first pylon, for example, bears well-preserved reliefs of the
pharaoh smiting his enemies, whose hair he holds collectively by one hand
while raising his other to strike. But Ramses III's death in 1188 B.C.
marked the beginning of a long decline of Egyptian civilization, and Medinet
Habu was the last of the great mortuary temples to be built.
We landed in a lush field near the Ramesseum.
Before we had climbed into the balloon's wicker basket for the flight, Yehia
had given us our instructions for landing: Hold onto ropes inside the
basket, bend your knees, and crouch down. But our descent to the field from
which we'd taken off an hour before was so smooth that, as I prepared to
assume the position, Yehia waved his hand gently, smiled, and said, "There
is no need." The crew caught the basket as effortlessly as if it were a
small boat gliding onto a beach and placed it gently upon the ground.
If you ever have a chance to go "swimming in the air," as one of the balloon
crew so aptly put it, don't miss it, especially if it happens to be over
Next: Tomorrow the NOVA team flies to Aswan, where the attempt to raise the
obelisk will begin.