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Ask The Behaviorist
Birds:
Sally Blanchard
answering questions Please be aware that the following
suggestions are general advice and are not intended to
be a
substitute for taking your pet to a veterinarian.
Posted February 6, 1998 |
next set
Question:
My five-year old Scarlet macaw is a feather plucker. She
lets most of them grow back in and there they go again. Any
suggestions?
Kathi Miraldi Hammond, IN katbirdiee@webtv.net
Response from Ms. Blanchard:
There are probably as many intricacies about feather picking
as there are birds who exhibit feather destructive behavior.
Although it is a very complex topic, I still believe that
the two major causes of feather picking in companion parrots
are lack of bathing opportunities and inadequate diet. There
may be other factors causing your Scarlet to pick her
feathers, but it would be difficult for me to go into them
at length without more information about your individual
macaw. Many people assume that feather picking is
behavioral—the sign of a neglected or "neurotic" bird.
While behavior can have a strong influence, I believe that
picking often starts for physical reasons and then becomes a
habit. I recommend having your bird checked by a competent
avian veterinarian to make sure some disease process is not
causing the picking. Then I encourage you to "maximize" the
bird's environment. This means that she will consistently be
getting the best care and quality attention that you can
give her. Basically this means daily showers, the most
nutritious varied diet possible, full-spectrum lighting, an
abundance of chewing wood and fun toys, lots of activity and
exercise, and quality focused attention on a daily basis.
Question:
My 8-month old Rainbow Lory was brought home three weeks
ago. He sensed early my inexperience as a bird owner. He has
become territorial and bites when I try remove him from his
cage or try to change the food and water. When he first
started biting, the vet recommended that food be kept out of
the cage to make him want to come out. That worked until I
could not get home to feed him . . . now he is afraid that I
am going to take his food away. I was advised to cover him
with a towel when he bites and put him in a place he does
not like and say, "No bite." I am afraid that this is not
helping him bond with me. His cage as the only place he
wants to be. When left for any amount of time out of his
cage, he flaps his wings in frustration. He does not bath or
play with his toys, which I understand are typical for
lorikeets. Out of his cage, he is willing to be hand fed and
loves to be scratched on his head. He lets himself be
handled by me and others. I hope that I haven't done
anything to damage our trust.
(name witheld by request)
Response from Ms. Blanchard:
This is a difficult question to answer in a few paragraphs.
While each parrot/human relationship has its own individual
characteristics, there is one absolute truth in parrot
behavior—parrots are more comfortable with people who
are comfortable with them. Parrots can be highly empathic,
responding to every nuance of their owner's mood and energy.
It may very well be that your lory did sense that you were
uncomfortable with him and therefore, was not comfortable
with you. It could also be that your Rainbow lory was not
really that tame. Lories are generally excitable and
sometimes fairly aggressive little birds. They need a lot of
handling and guidance when they are young to gentle them and
keep them tame. If your lory was handfed but then weaned and
not handled that much out of his cage until you brought him
home, he might have become quite territorial about his cage
because that was what he was used to and where he feels
safe. Your statement that the fact that your lory does not
bathe or play with is toys is normal for lorikeets couldn't
be further from the truth. Lories are one of the most
playful acrobatic birds available as pets and normally love
to bathe. Most people have to be very careful with
containers of liquid around their lories or the bird is in
the "drink," so to speak. You are right to question the
"quick fix, " but ineffective advice you have been given.
Anything that you do that threatens your bird will threaten
the trust you are trying to build with him, and that will
damage his bond to you. All work that people do with their
parrots should be trust-building and encourage tameness. The
fact that your lory does not play or really know how to
entertain himself suggests to me that he may not have been
well-socialized as a youngster. He is still a young bird and
most likely capable of developing more curiosity but he will
need for you to be his teacher.
The first step when you have him out and he is agreeable to
being handled by you is to take him into a "neutral room."
This is an area unfamiliar to him where he can't see his
cage. As long as he is in familiar territory and can see his
cage, he will have an agenda around that cage. But when you
are the only "thing" familiar in the room, he will be far
more responsive to you. Before you take him into the
"neutral" room, plan ahead and place an old sheet or blanket
on the bed or couch. Put some colorful, jangly toys on the
towel. When you bring him into the room, make sure you are
calm and relaxed so he can match that energy. Place him on
the sheet and pick up a toy. Let him see you play with it
(there is a lot of monkey-see/monkey-do in parrots). Without
threatening him with it, drag the toy along the towel until
he gets the idea to chase after it. It may take several
times before he gets the idea, so don't be impatient and
give up too quickly. It would also help him learn to bathe
if you placed a shallow dish of water on the sheet and
splashed your hand around it a bit to show him how much fun
it is. Don't force him into the bowl but let him gradually
get the idea. Many parrots do not like showers because they
are threatened by the squirt bottle. Teaching them to bathe
in a shallow bowl will help them keep clean which is
essential for their health and feather condition.
The next step is to start to gain better control of your
lory's behavior. Focused play time will really help him
learn to enjoy time away from his cage but you will also
need to use this interactive time to set some rules and
provide guidance for him. Parrots are creatures of
patterning which means that the more they do something, the
more likely they are to do it again. When he is in the
'neutral' room with you, start using the 'UP' command every
time you pick him up and the 'down' command every time you
want him to step off of your hand. As part of your calm
playtime, you can ladder him a few times from hand to hand,
saying "up" as he steps from one hand to the other. You will
find after only a few times of doing this, he will most
likely start to lift his foot as you start to say the word.
Patterning him to step on your hand with the "up" command
and giving him a good amount of playful interaction away
from the cage should make it easier to get him out of his
cage. With some birds, the cage still exerts a strong
territorial defense urge and you may have to try some other
tricks besides just using the "up" command to get him to
come out on your hand. Making direct (but friendly) eye
contact can help. Another trick is to hold something unusual
in your other hand. A magazine, potholder, washrag, TV
remote control - any hand-held object will work as long as
he is not afraid of it. The purpose is not to threaten him.
Parrots who are defending their territory are on some sort
of "automatic pilot," doing something which seems normal to
them. If we add another variable - something that distracts
them from the patterned defensive behavior - we can sneak in
and use the "up" command we have patterned them to while
they are wondering what the heck that is you are holding in
your hand.
It sounds as if your lory didn't get as good a start as he
needed but I think, with playful interaction and nurturing
"parental" guidance on your part, you will able to gentle
your lory down and have the kind of pet you were hoping for.
(back)
Don't Blame Your Pet
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