Mona, Moana, and Kaniela Kanikapila (Making Music) at the Nuku a Hoe Canoe Club House, Taiohae.

In Taiohae, Nukuhiva
Sunday, July 31, 1999

The Hokule'a crew for the leg to Mangareva arrived safely at Nukuhiva Airport, July 26. Met by Tava Taupu, T. Hee, et al, from the first crew. Greeted by Marquesan schoolchildren at a summer camp in the hills above the airport. Songs and dances; bananas and grapefruit were ono. Tava, a native of Taiohae, pointed out two kuku, an endangered native pigeon, flying across the valley. Hills are being planted with pines for forestry, replacing the native flora, one tree akin to Hawai'i's 'ohi'a lehua. 3-hr drive overland on dirt and rock road to Taiohae, across mountains and central plateau called Tovii. From the heights of Mouake, the road winds down to the U-shaped bay of Taiohae, opening to the south, with Ua Pou on the horizon, 20 miles away. Hokule'a anchored on the west side of the bay.

Days passing swiftly before departure on Aug 2: Redoing battens on canvas sleeping compartments, esp. the two nicknamed "the Swamp" and "Niagra Falls" on the first leg. Batteries for radio and running lights not recharging; Aldon Kim working on the eletrical system. G. Yuen and Mona Shintani building a new toilet seat for the canoe. Canoe is in top shape, thanks to the first crew. July 29: loading water and supplies under Moana Doi. July 30: on board training under Captain/Navigator C. Baybayan. July 31: prep for thank you paina on Aug 1, make imu and kalua pig.

Multilingual camp set up at a paddling canoe club house: Marquesan, Hawaiian, English, and French spoken. Mona, from Ni'ihau, talking Hawaiian in his sleep! Nukuhiva canoe club training for the paddling race across Hawai'i's Kaiwi channel. Watched action video by M. Attwood of the voyage to Nukuhiva, scenes of crew under Bruce Blankenfeld catching an ono, searching for land to the west, turning around, sighting Eiao in the morning rain squalls. July 28: celebrated crew member G. Suzuki's birthday with barbequed goat, a Marquesan delicacy. Crew members T. Gilliom, R. Amimoto, and K. Hoe helped pack out the goat, shot last week by Kimitete Kamehameha and another Marquesan at a remote valley on the north side.

Cultural exchanges: D. Anton and M. Attwood teaching a Hawaiian song and a chant to children at the school next to the canoe club. Maka carving stones to present as gifts to the school next door and the Nuku a Hoe canoe club. Three crew members (Gary Y., Tim, and Russell) have new Marquesan tatoos! Tava took C. Fuller, K. Akaka, and D. Kawaharada on a journey through his childhood and family traditions in the valley of Pakiu, K. recording it on video. Walked up a six-foot wide stone path, the ancient road that ascends up a ridge to Mouake pass and across the central plateau to all parts of the island. Paepae (stone house foundations) line the trail. Stopped at the me'ae (temple) of Pakoko, famous Marquesan warrior and ancestor of Tava, four generations ago. Pakoko led the Marquesan resistance to the French during his time.