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Maintenance
Schedule: Winter Replace any that don't work, throw sparks, won't securely hold a plug, or otherwise appear damaged.
First things first, turn off the power to the receptacle. Use a neon tester to double-check that the power is off before removing the cover and backing out the screws securing the receptacle to the box. Disconnect the wires from the old receptacle. Before hooking up the new receptacle, inspect the wires to make sure they aren't oxidized or nicked. If they are damaged, cut off the ends and strip ¾" of insulation from the wire ends. Connect the ground, secure the neutral wire (usually white) under the silver screw, and then secure the hot wire (usually black) under the brass screw.
Plug a radio, hairdryer, or other appliance into the GFCI, turn it on, then press the test button. The receptacle should shut itself off. If it doesn't, press the test button again. If it still doesn't shut off, the receptacle needs to be replaced. By the way, don't be too surprised if the receptacle doesn't shut off. It's estimated that up to 25 percent of all GFCIs in this country are malfunctioning due to power surges or lightening strikes. If the receptacle did pass its test, press the reset button; the power should come back on.
Replacing a GFCI is similar to replacing a regular receptacle, except that in addition to the ground wire, there will be a set of wires connected to the "line" terminals, and possibly another set connected to the "load" terminals. The line wires bring power into the receptacle; the load wires feed any receptacles downstream, providing GFCI protection to them, as well.
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