Frontline World

CHINA - Shanghai Nights, June 2004


Related Features THE STORY
Synopsis of "Shanghai Nights"

REPORTER'S SLIDESHOW
Bright Lights, Big City

NOTORIOUS WRITER, FORBIDDEN STORIES
Read excerpts from Candy

FACTS & STATS
China's Economy, Shanghai, Youth Culture

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Arts, Culture, New Generation, Weblogs

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Reporter's Slideshow: Bright Lights, Big City
On the prowl with a Shanghai diva

Mian Mian in front of roses

A photo shoot for Elle: Mian Mian says, "This is a game, you play with media, okay? Media and me, we work together. We don't like each other, but we work together. They are bitch, I'm bitch, too." Staying in the public eye is her way of protecting herself against harassment by the authorities. She could be arrested tomorrow, or she could be left alone. She talks big, but also knows when to be careful. "In China," she says, "you can't be too extremely too much."
Singer sings into mike

A rock-and-roller without Keith Richards's wrinkles and darkness. Thoughtful and careful, Martin Wong seems to belong in a university, not in a rock group rehearsing in an abandoned eel-canning factory. Wong and his band play music with passion, but they know the authorities are still suspicious of rock. They have trouble finding venues for performing. They watch what they say. They call themselves the Lanterns -- and it's an apt name. Light burns bright inside the lantern, but on the outside, it's dimmer, softer.
Boy looking out on river

He reminded me of an Oklahoma boy's seeing the New York Harbor for the first time and wondering, "How did I get here?" I enjoyed strolling on the Bund along the waterfront. So much of what we hear in the United States about China has to do with conflicts, economic problems. But from this peaceful vantage, I found Shanghai impressive, inspiring.
Party girl in a club

The young, the hip, the moves, the money -- it's all here in Shanghai. I kept thinking how Western the club scene here is. Everybody speaks English; many have English names. But no one seems to question his or her Chinese identity. It's still strong. They don't seem threatened by the encroaching Western world, even with the disco lights inside and the Starbucks outside.
Mian Mian in a club

Everyone knows Mian Mian. She and her friends collaborate, inventing and reinventing themselves. And why should young people here be any different from young people elsewhere in the world? Carefree, into the latest fads, a bit hedonistic. But beyond the downtown clubs, most young people in Shanghai have more practical needs. They worry about making money and taking care of their family. For entertainment, they stay at home and watch television.

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