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The Approach March
part 4 |
back to part 3
Namche Bazaar
Namche Bazaar sits within the curve of a perfectly formed
Himalayan cirque, its lodges nestled into the mountainside
facing the daunting rock face of the Himalayan peak, Kwangde.
Click here for an audio walk through Namche
(RealAudio 83K). The largest village in the Khumbu, Namche has
shops, lodges, a bank, and even a dentist's office. We awake
the next morning to crowing roosters and the beating drums of
a nearby religious ceremony. Clouds roll swiftly over the
mountains as the team wolfs down a breakfast of omelets and
porridge to fuel up for the steep, but brief, ascent to the
village of Khumjung.
Khumjung is in the heart of the Khumbu, which is the home of
the Sherpas, an ethnic group that came from Tibet over 400
years ago and settled the flanks of Everest's south slopes.
Khumjung, which has the only school in the valley, is a
traditional Sherpa village. Its economy is based on potatoes,
barley, yak husbandry, and now, trekking.
Khumjung
The snow falls hard for 5 hours, so the film crew uses the
time to shoot indoors in the Khumjung Gompa (monastery) with
Jamling. This sequence is meant to set Jamling in his culture
and homeland so the audience can gain a sense of where he's
from and who he is. Having grown up in the aura of his
father's accomplishments and fame, Jamling is suspended
gracefully between two worlds, that of the Sherpa and the
West. He has finally returned home to Darjeeling, after living
in the U.S. for 11 years, to head up his father's trekking and
climbing business and to settle down with his Tibetan wife and
child. "It's nice being the son of a famous person, but I keep
a low profile as much as possible, you know, do my own thing.
I'm just another person. I didn't climb the mountain, he did."
Click here to hear Jamling talk about Sherpas
(RealAudio). Being Sherpa and also a climber on the
expedition, Jamling feels the poignancy of his position: "I
think my father's concern was that he didn't want me to go up
(Everest) getting paid to carry a load. He always said 'Don't
disgrace our name by going as a Sherpa ..... wait, you'll get
your funding one day and it'll happen.'"
Continue
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