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Assault on the Summit
part 6 |
back to part 5
Other Physiological Effects of Altitude
The oxygen-starved atmosphere on Everest makes itself known
through fatigue, loss of appetite, headaches, dehydration, and
even loss of muscle tissue—especially at the higher
camps. Araceli comments on what she expects on the last part
of the climb: "From the South Col to the summit, that's the
most difficult part. Because there's less oxygen and you are
more tired. You have been a lot of time climbing and that
makes your body be, how do you say?.... You lose energy. And
all this time at high altitude you are losing energy. You will
lose muscle and all the power and you must be prepared not
only physically but psychologically." At altitudes of over
21,000 feet, muscle tissue may deteriorate and resistence to
cold is greatly reduced. Eating and sleeping patterns are
severely altered. Climbers force themselves to eat and drink
and then crawl into their sleeping bags. At Camp 4, breathing
supplemental oxygen at night can allow a climber to get high
quality sleep.
On arrival at altitude, almost immediately the heart beats
faster and more forcefully, and the volume and frequency of
breathing increases. Water is exhaled with each breath and
dehydration becomes another concern. Each climber drinks 4-6
quarts of fluid per day. Wind can further dehydrate the
climbers and the wind chill factor can drop to temperatures as
low as -120 degrees. Dehydration, in advanced stages, can
cause blood to thicken, increasing the risk of two of the most
common medical ailments at altitude: frostbite and fatigue. On
the summit, just warming and moisturizing the cold dry air
that the climbers will breathe will take so much of their
metabolic energy that they cannot stay warm there for more
than a short time, no matter what they wear. In order to
compensate for the lack of oxygen, the red corpuscles multiply
to such an extent that the blood becomes even thicker and does
not circulate as freely, especially in the small capillaries
of the extremities. This increases the risk of frostbite.
Continue
Photos: (1-2) courtesy Robert Schauer.
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