|

|

|
The Mummy's Journey
Part 5
(back to Part 4)
We drive though dry mountains and small villages encircled by
rock walls and terraced crops. Green fields of wheat stand out
in this otherwise dry landscape, but if you scour the slopes
you might catch a glimpse of red cactus flowers and blue
lupine. Occasionally we get out of the bus to help it over the
steep passes. Dust starts to creep into our eyes, ears, and
mouths—it's so thick on the road that it completely
covers our boots in a weightless layer, like fresh powder snow
in the Rockies. Looking back toward Sara Sara, we see long
lenticular clouds, indicating extremely high winds on the
summit. We're all unabashedly grateful to be off the volatile
slopes of Sara Sara.
Before long, a distinct banging can be heard on the roof.
Jokes abound about the mummy coming to life and trying to
break loose from her icy constraints. We stop in the village
of Salla Salla on the south side of the mountain to fix the
rapidly deteriorating roof rack, which is breaking up under
the weight of our equipment and the mummy. Everything is taken
off the roof, except for the mummy, and put inside. The
thought of putting the rotting, melting mummy inside the bus
with us isn't even suggested. The scene soon turns surreal as
we limp out of Salla Salla in the mid-day sun on a bus that
can't go uphill, with a 500-year old mummy slowly melting on
the rooftop.
We take the high plains route to the coast to avoid steep
passes. There are no trees except for the occasional
eucalyptus planted near an abandoned village. I watch dreamily
as we pass by a village where two children and a dog are
seemingly the only inhabitants. They appear to be flying a
kite—I can see them holding on tightly to a ball of
string that stretches taughtly up into the sky. When I look
back seconds later it seems as though the moon is attached to
the end of the string—only here could children fly the
moon with a home-made kite on a lazy afternoon.
Sarita Takes Public Transport
Exactly 12 hours after our departure from Quilcata, we slowly
motor into Chala, a seaside town on the Pan American Highway.
It looks like the red light district, with garrish neon lights
illuminating seedy-looking eateries and bars. Shifty
characters size up our bus loaded with Gringos and an absurd
amount of gear. Eyes wander to the large round bundle sitting
alone on the roof. I silently bet that no one could guess it's
a 7 year old Inca girl.
Our first luck of the day finally strikes when we discover
there's a public bus ready to leave for Arequipa. It is
scheduled to drive through the night and arrive at 5:30 a.m.
We jump at the chance to get off the snail-paced time warp
machine and throw our 36 duffles and cases plus one mummy into
the cargo holds of the bus. We sail through the night to
introduce Sarita to the last decade of the 20th century.
Check back next week to find out how they plan to preserve
Sarita.
The Ascent |
Digging in Thin Air
|
The Mummy's Journey
|
Preserving the Past
Expedition '96 |
Dispatches |
Mummies |
Lost Worlds |
Mail
Resources |
Site Map |
Ice Mummies of the Inca Home
|
BBC Horizon
Editor's Picks
|
Previous Sites
|
Join Us/E-mail
|
TV/Web Schedule
About NOVA |
Teachers |
Site Map |
Shop |
Jobs |
Search |
To print
PBS Online |
NOVA Online |
WGBH
©
| Updated November 2000
|
|
|