Storm Over Everest

Facts & Statistics

Teams on the Southeast Ridge May 10-11, 1996
(*-- Died)

1. Adventure Consultants Team - Involved in the Tragedy
*Rob Hall (leader)
Michael Groom (guide)
*Andy Harris (guide)
Beck Weathers
*Yasuko Namba
Lou Kasischke
Jon Krakauer
*Doug Hansen
Stuart Hutchison
Frank Fischbeck
Dr. John Taske
Helen Wilton (Base Camp manager)
Dr. Caroline Mackenzie (Base Camp doctor)
Ang Dorjee Sherpa (climbing sirdar)
Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (climbing)
Kami Sherpa (climbing)
Tenzing Sherpa (climbing)
Arita Sherpa (climbing)
Ngawang Norbu Sherpa (climbing)
Chuldum Sherpa (climbing)
Ang Tshering Sherpa (Base Camp sirdar)
Chhongba Sherpa
Pemba Sherpa
Tendi Sherpa

2. Mountain Madness Team - Involved in the Tragedy
*Scott Fischer (leader)
Neal Beidleman (guide)
Anatoli Boukreev (guide)
Sandy Hill
Tim Madsen
Charlotte Fox
Klev Schoening
Pete Schoening
Lene Gammelgaard
Martin Adams
Dr. Dale Kruse
Jane Bromet (journalist)
Dr. Ingrid Hunt (Base Camp manager and doctor)
Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa (climbing sirdar)
Ngawang Topche Sherpa (climbing)
Tashi Tshering Sherpa (climbing)
Ngawang Dorje Sherpa (climbing)
Ngawang Sya Kya Sherpa (climbing)
Ngawang Tendi Sherpa (climbing)
"Big" Pemba Sherpa (climbing)
Jeta Sherpa (Base Camp cook)
Pemba Sherpa (Base Camp cook boy)

3. Taiwanese Team - Involved in the Tragedy (partial list)
"Makalu" Gau Ming-Ho (leader)
*Chen Yu-Nan (fell to his death May 9)
Kami Dorje Sherpa (climbing sirdar)
Ngima Gombu Sherpa (climbing)
Mingma Tshering Sherpa (climbing)

1. MacGillivray Freeman IMAX/ IWERKS Expedition
(Assisted in bringing down Chen Yu-Nan and after storm)
David Breashears (leader, film director)
Jamling Norgay Sherpa (deputy leader)
Ed Viesturs
Araceli Segarra
Sumiyo Tsuzuki
Robert Schauer (cinematographer)
Paula Barton Viesturs (Base Camp manager)
Audrey Salkeld (journalist)
Liz Cohen (film production manager)
Liesl Clark (film producer/writer)

2. Alpine Ascents International Guided Expedition
(Assisted in rescue by climbing to South Col and treating Beck Weathers at Camp Two; partial list)
Pete Athans (guide)
Todd Burleson (leader, guide)
Jim Williams
Dr. Ken Kamler (treated Beck's hands)

[Note: Other teams which helped in some aspect of rescue include: 1) International Commercial Expedition, 2) Himalayan Guides Commercial Expedition, 3) Swedish Solo Expedition, 4) Norwegian Solo Expedition, 5) Nepali Everest Cleaning Expedition.]

Teams on the Tibetan Side, May 10-11, 1996
(*-- Died)

1. Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) Everest Expedition
Mohindor Singh (leader)
Harbhajan Singh (deputy leader)
*Tsewang Smanla
*Tsewang Paljor
*Dorje Morup
Hira Ram
Tashi Ram
Sange Sherpa
Nadra Sherpa
Koshing Sherpa

2. Japanese-Fukuoka Everest Expedition
Koji Yada (leader)
Hiroshi Hanada
Eisuke Shigekawa
Pasang Tshering Sherpa
Pasang Kami Sherpa
Any Gyalzen

[Note: There was immediate controversy over the deaths on the Tibetan side. On May 10, in the early evening, three Indian climbers on the ITBP team radioed their team that they had reached the summit. When the storm came in, all three were caught near the top of the mountain and died. Their bodies were found by the descending Japanese-Fukuoka team the following day. The next week, Capt. M.S. Kohli of the ITBP alleged the Japanese climbers had, in fact, encountered the still-living Indian climbers on their ascent, rather than descent, and, in continuing their summit bid instead of providing aid, were responsible for their deaths. The Japanese denied the allegation. On June 11, the ITBP retracted Kohli's statement, saying his remarks were personal and not the opinion of the organization. And an additional controversy surfaced: Some climbers, including guide Neal Beidleman, said that given the late hour and weather conditions, it was unlikely that the ITBP team actually ever reached the summit.]

The Risks

[Note: Within the climbing community, there have been disputes over some climbers' claims to having summited. The figures below are from journalist Elizabeth Hawley's "Himalayan Database," and should be viewed as approximate figures. The climbers' site maintains its own list which diverges slightly from Hawley's.]

1980-89 - 1,871 climbers (clients, guides, Sherpa) set off from Base Camp; 180 make the summit; 56 die.

1990-99 - 3,017 people set off from Base Camp; 881 reach the summit; 55 die.

2000-06 - 3,572 people set off from Base Camp; 1,884 reach the summit; 36 die.

Expedition Costs

Adventure Consultants - $65,000 for a guided expedition lasting 67 days. They offer additional services at an extra cost for private guiding, extra oxygen and Sherpa support.

Mountain Madness - $59,000 for a guided expedition lasting 68 days. They also offer additional services.

National Geographic puts the average guided expedition at $65,000, with a breakdown of costs here.

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posted may 13, 2008

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