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Special

House of Aama: Threads of Legacy

Premiere: 7/15/2025 | 15:00 |

Explore the unique creative process and familial narrative behind the acclaimed fashion label House of Aama, led by Akua Shabaka and her mother, Rebecca Henry. The film delves into their creative process and spiritual approach to fashion, anchored in personal archives, Black folklore, and storytelling.

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About the Series

House of Aama: Threads of Legacy is part of In The Making, a documentary shorts series from American Masters and Firelight Media follows emerging cultural icons on their journeys to becoming masters of their artistic disciplines.


Jamal Ademola’s director statement

“Healing comes when the individual remembers his or her identity—the purpose chosen in the world of ancestral wisdom—and reconnects with that world of Spirit.” – Malidoma Patrice Somé

These words from one of my favorite authors illuminate what I see in House of Aama, the mother-daughter team of Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka. Their website describes House of Aama as a “spiritual expression…in material form,” which I find an accurate description for the world-building they create with their garments.

Rooted in love and tradition, their clothing embodies a reverence for African spirituality, practices often misunderstood in the West. Their work draws on ancestral traditions of honoring and remembering, tapping into the spirits of waters like Oshun and Yemaya, as well as folklore figures like Anansi. I see in their garments the embodiment of West African Yoruba mythologies, stories of Black American and Caribbean migration, and the tactile preservation of familial histories.

Early in production, I read a Vogue article where Akua recounted the challenges of growing up with features that set her apart from girls whose hair more closely matched white beauty standards. This struggle, familiar to many Black women and men, felt especially moving as she described finding empowerment in embracing traditional African braiding styles suited to her natural Black hair. Akua’s journey reminded me of J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere’s legendary photographs of Nigerian women from the 1950s, portraits that capture ornate spirals and fractal hairstyles—stunningly elaborate coiffures with ancestral ties.

Inspired by a conversation with Akua, I wondered if we could document a dream image that represented House of Aama’s archival work, their ancestral reverence, and their fullest realization of themselves as Black women. With the support of my production company rep WTBR, we brought this vision to life for the film’s opening.

For Black Americans, understanding histories that extend beyond the slave trade is important. As an artist with a Nigerian father and Black American mother, investigating Black identity and building Pan-African bridges is at the core of my artistic work, so I was thrilled to document House of Aama as they traveled to Accra, Ghana—Akua’s paternal ancestral connection through the Caribbean.

Their recent collections have paid tribute to Akua’s father and Rebecca’s late former partner, Jamaiel Shabaka, a prolific Afro-Caribbean musician active in Los Angeles’s Free Jazz scene. In the film, I wanted to capture some of the difficulties they navigated after his death in 2021 and their process of creating “Sun Records”, their latest collection honoring his Free Jazz legacy.

As bell hooks reminds us, “Love is an action, never simply a feeling.” Fashion may be ephemeral, but in House of Aama’s work, their creative acts and cultural impact have the possibility to reverberate through time.

More about Rebecca L. Henry and Akua Shabaka and House of Aama

Rebbeca L. Henry and Akua Shabaka.

House of Aama is a boutique lifestyle clothing brand founded by mother-and-daughter duo Rebecca L. Henry and Akua Shabaka. The brand explores the folkways of the Black experience by designing timeless garments with nostalgic references, informed by historical research, archival analysis, and storytelling. Aama Studio expands the breadth of this work into various mediums of visual storytelling, including film and installation practices. Weaving together fashion, art, and history, they aim to evoke dialogue and social commentary around heritage, remembrance, and the illumination of nuanced histories.

Rebecca L. Henry is a 1993 graduate from the UCLA School of Law. She is from a family of Southerners from Louisiana on her mother’s side and South Carolina on her father’s side who have a rich history of ancestral remembrance and retention of folkways. As a creator and designer, Rebecca pulls on her family traditions to weave and craft the stories that inspire the fashion collections for House of Aama. As an attorney, she is the Director of legal and business affairs for the brand. She also oversees manufacturing and production.

Akua Shabaka is a 2019 graduate from Parsons the New School for Design with a BBA degree in Strategic Design & Business Management. Akua is a multidisciplinary artist born and raised in South Los Angeles with cultural roots in the Caribbean and Southern States. She is the creative director and project manager. Akua has garnered attention not only for her fashion label but for her keen eye in fashion, style and culture, as well as, spirituality, beauty & wellness. In her spare time, Akua enjoys traveling and learning about new cultures.

More about Jamal Ademola

Jamal Ademola.

Jamal Ademola is a Nigerian-American artist and filmmaker who works across film, animation, painting, installation, and performance. He tries to remember his dreams before they fade. Raised in Lagos, Nigeria, and uprooted to the U.S. at ten years old, he creates art and films that dwell in the in-between, exploring Black identity, love, migration, and the concept of being. He is the creative director of The Blind Couple From Mali, an upcoming documentary featuring Grammy-nominated musicians Amadou and Mariam. As an actor, he appeared in Ten Cent Daisy (2022) and Imagine a Moon Colony (2020). His work has been exhibited at the Wassaic Project (2025), August Wilson Center (2024), Images Festival (2024), Black Cultural Archives (2023), Alchemy Film & Arts (2023, 2022), and Kala Art Institute (2022). Supported by Comcast NBCUniversal, Firelight Media, PAM-CUT, BAVC Media, and other esteemed organizations, his work tells stories for those who feel bereft and suspended between places. He is currently directing a docu-fiction film titled They Came From The Clouds and a romantic visual auto-ethnographic film titled Pieces of You. He is represented by Where the Buffalo Roam.

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PRODUCTION CREDITS

Directed by Jamal Ademola. Produced by Kris Simms and Jamal Ademola. Cinematography by Sam Akinyele, Mobolaji Olaoniye, Aiko Tanaka, and Prince Banini. Edited by Susannah Smith and Sam Akinyele.

This program was produced by MOXIE JOE LLC FILMS, which is solely responsible for its content. A production of Firelight Media in association with The WNET Group.

For IN THE MAKING, Executive Producers include Michael Kantor, Stanley Nelson, Marcia Smith, Monika Navarro and Joe Skinner. Supervising Producer is Robinder Uppal. Production Coordinator is Myrakel Baker. Audience Engagement Consultant is Chang Fuerte.

About American Masters
Now in its 39th season on PBS, American Masters illuminates the lives and creative journeys of those who have left an indelible impression on our cultural landscape—through compelling, unvarnished stories. Setting the standard for documentary film profiles, the series has earned widespread critical acclaim: 28 Emmy Awards—including 10 for Outstanding Non-Fiction Series and five for Outstanding Non-Fiction Special—two News & Documentary Emmys, 14 Peabodys, three Grammys, two Producers Guild Awards, an Oscar, and many other honors. To further explore the lives and works of more than 250 masters past and present, the American Masters website offers full episodes, film outtakes, filmmaker interviews, the podcast American Masters: Creative Spark, educational resources, digital original series and more. The series is a production of The WNET Group.

American Masters is available for streaming concurrent with broadcast on all station-branded PBS platforms, including PBS.org and the PBS app, available on iOS, Android, Roku streaming devices, Apple TV, Android TV, Amazon Fire TV, Samsung Smart TV, Chromecast and VIZIO. PBS station members can view many series, documentaries and specials via PBS Passport. For more information about PBS Passport, visit the PBS Passport FAQ website.

About The WNET Group

The WNET Group creates inspiring media content and meaningful experiences for diverse audiences nationwide. It is the community-supported home of New York’s THIRTEEN – America’s flagship PBS station – WLIW, THIRTEEN PBS KIDS, WLIW World and Create; NJ PBS, New Jersey’s statewide public television network; Long Island’s only NPR station WLIW-FM; ALL ARTS, the arts and culture media provider; newsroom NJ Spotlight News; and FAST channel PBS Nature. Through these channels and streaming platforms, The WNET Group brings arts, culture, education, news, documentary, entertainment, and DIY programming to more than five million viewers each month. The WNET Group’s award-winning productions include signature PBS series Nature, Great Performances, American Masters, and Amanpour and Company and trusted local news programs like NJ Spotlight News with Briana Vannozzi. Inspiring curiosity and nurturing dreams, The WNET Group’s award-winning Kids’ Media and Education team produces the PBS KIDS series Cyberchase, interactive Mission US history games, and resources for families, teachers and caregivers. A leading nonprofit public media producer for more than 60 years, The WNET Group presents and distributes content that fosters lifelong learning, including initiatives addressing poverty, jobs, economic opportunity, social justice, understanding, and the environment. Through Passport, station members can stream new and archival programming anytime, anywhere. The WNET Group represents the best in public media. Join us. 

UNDERWRITING

Original production funding for In the Making is provided by the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, Rosalind P. Walter Foundation, Anderson Family Charitable Fund, The Marc Haas Foundation, The Charina Endowment Fund, Ambrose Monell Foundation, Kate W. Cassidy Foundation, Sue and Edgar Wachenheim III, and Philip & Janice Levin Foundation.

Support for American Masters is provided by the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, AARP, Rosalind P. Walter Foundation, Burton P. and Judith B. Resnick Foundation, Blanche and Hayward Cirker Charitable Lead Annuity Trust, Koo and Patricia Yuen, Lillian Goldman Programming Endowment, Seton J. Melvin, Thea Petschek Iervolino Foundation, Candace King Weir, Anita and Jay Kaufman, The Philip and Janice Levin Foundation, Kate W. Cassidy Foundation, The Blanche and Irving Laurie Foundation, The Ambrose Monell Foundation, Ellen and James S. Marcus, The Charina Endowment Fund, The André and Elizabeth Kertész Foundation, The Marc Haas Foundation and public television viewers.

TRANSCRIPT

(gentle music) - We think of fashion as a way to tell mythological and archival stories of the Black experience.

(gentle music) And to remember those who have come before us so that their stories may last forever.

(gentle music) We wanted to talk about the migration of African people from Africa through the Caribbean and through the Southern United States.

(gentle music) And so, we used the folk hero, "Anansi the Spider," to tell that story because as he migrated, sometimes his stories changed, sometimes his gender changed, but what was the continuity was the fact that he traveled as the African people moved.

(gentle music) Through the weaving of "Anansi," we come together as people, and we tell these stories through the diaspora.

(weaves crackling) (gentle music) (wheels whirring) (hooter honks) (ambient music) (bell trilling) I was brought up in a family of Southerners.

My mom's from Louisiana, my father's from South Carolina, and there was always a notion in our family of not accepting things as they were, especially with my mom.

She did everything from scratch.

(ambient music) My mother used to say in the summer, "Okay, I'm gonna go to the fabric store and I'm gonna buy the fabric, and I'm gonna make all my summer dresses.

One for each day of the week.

Because it was important for you, even if you had store-bought clothes, for you to add your own personal touch and narrative to it."

(ambient music) (lips smacking) (string swishes) (birds chirping) - Growing up, I would watch my mother making arts and crafts, quilting, and sewing at home when she would come home from work.

(lively music) My dad, he always had a different type of flute, whether it was (laughs) a bamboo flute, a classical flute, and he also was a djembe master drummer.

I started to explore my own way of freedom of expression in middle school, and one of the things that I felt was really appealing to me was creating garments, upcycling vintage clothes, and that was a part of who I was and my identity.

(lively music) And that was really the inception of House of Aama at the time.

(lively music) (hangers rattling) When I felt like, "Wow, we really, we have made a step in the right direction," was when we received the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2021.

This was the first major award we received.

So, yeah, I've been a fan.

I actually went to one of your shows like a couple years ago.

- Mm-hmm.

- And I was still a student at Parsons, and I went- (laughs) - And you know, you called me the big dog.

But really, I feel like, I mean, when we're on those Zoom calls and we're talking about all of the different aspects of our business, it's inspiring.

We all need mentorship.

We all need help.

- Being able to sit amongst other designers that I really admired and I looked up to, and being able to be in that same conversation and to be looked at as a brand of that value was really a memorable time.

Did our first New York Fashion Week show.

(ominous music) Straight from the runway, we had Gabrielle Union wearing our La Sirene dress.

This was our first-ever major celebrity placement, and it went viral.

We ended up getting a cover story with that same dress on Chloe Bailey.

And I think that kind of catapult us into being known for that mesh La Sirene dress.

The garment has been able to tell different stories.

(ominous music) (singers chanting) My mother and I truly consider ourselves folkloresses.

We are unpacking familial stories, historical narratives and looking at archives as a way to perform and create these collections.

(singers chanting) Our focus has always been to look at how our familial connections in the Southern United States and the Caribbean Islands, and how that then plays a role into how we want to tell our stories in our garments.

(singers chanting) ♪ The judge, I can see, incredible ♪ ♪ Incredible ♪ ♪ At times, I can see miserable, ooh, yeah ♪ (uplifting ominous music) - Working on the show and not being able to, at that time, stop.

- Yeah.

- We couldn't pause.

We had to keep going.

We were shooting the next day.

- Yes, and I don't think that your dad would've wanted us to have stopped.

We just had to keep going.

And then later, when we were able to properly address your father's passing, I'm glad that we were able to do that and come together as a family.

The archiving was so important to him.

It was so important to him that he was the keeper of your family's history and lineage.

And I know that he wanted you to have these documents so that you would keep that going because you also have an interest in being like the family storyteller and create.

- It's, you know, people don't understand sometimes how difficult it is to like have that balance.

- It's tough.

(laughs) And you know that was a really tough period of time.

I love you.

- I love you.

(ominous music) - [Akua] My father's side is from Cuba and Jamaica.

I learned that the Ashanti tribe migrated and transferred to the Caribbean islands due to the transatlantic slave trade.

And so, there's a large population in Jamaica of Maroons, which my family traces back to our heritage ties to the Ashanti Tribe of West Africa and Ghana.

They are known for their weaving techniques.

(kids frolicking) (birds squealing) (ominous music) I think the colors and textures here are just very vibrant and vivid.

Just to be here and to see how that is expressed here traditionally, reinforces for us that we have a continuum, and that's an African impulse.

(people indistinct chatting) (gentle music) (gentle music) (wind whooshing) (waves crashing) (birds squealing) (gentle music) - My dad was like a starting point of understanding how deep archival work is and how important it is to create that framework.

(gentle flute music) I realized that my dad had a large influence in the Los Angeles jazz scene.

He played with people like Sun Ra.

He played with Alice Coltrane, Pharoah Sanders, Alice Klein, and so with this collection, we are introducing Sun Records.

It's paying homage to jazz culture, to free jazz, - And specifically, a jazz legacy that we've had in Southern California.

And so we're bringing in, again, another story that's connected to our family history and family legacy.

(lively music) I think the most challenging aspect of making this collection is the actual making of it, the physical, the manufacturing.

We are in multiple different places all around LA, Having these garments made, great to produce locally, you contribute to the local economy.

You can touch and feel the people that you're working with, but it's also challenging to produce locally.

- I was having a conversation with another designer friend, and they were like, "It's so funny how you make clothes, because we do it so differently."

And a lot of time, even brands that are at our length, they're not touching the garments anymore.

For us, we still kind of have that cottage core, handy-made craft part to our brand where we are having a relationship with our sewers and figuring out what beads are we gonna work on with, what applique are we gonna do, what embroidery work, and we're going to these places, and we're making edits.

It's a part of the process that is very personal to us.

(lively music) (bus droning) (people indistinct chatting) We're having a jazz show as part of the New York Fashion Week experience, and introduce Sun Records, which is paying homage to my father and the Free Jazz culture he was a part of.

- [Attendee] They're on this list.

- Yeah, so you have the contact.

- [Attendee] No, I have no contact.

- Because the boys, we have to shuffle around.

(people indistinct chatting) - Yes, yes, I'm just moved.

- okay.

(hangers rattling) (gentle music) - Right.

- And then most of these, it'll need... (eerie music) - Just get it out, he said discussing, right?

- That's good to know.

- Yeah.

(gentle music) (hangers rattling) (people indistinct chatting) (footsteps clomping) (gentle music) - Yes, it is.

(footsteps clomping) - And tomorrow, you know, you all (indistinct) - [Attendee] Right.

(Rebecca indistinct speaking) (gentle music) (people indistinct chatting) - This is important, the La Sirene models are models of color.

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of properly-matching skin.

So, do not have anybody looking mismatch applesauce up in here.

(everybody laughs) (gentle music) It is hot up in here like, huh?

(steamer hissing) - [Seamstress] Going to need you.

- Got all of this?

- This, yeah, yeah, yeah.

(everybody laughs) - [Akua] Oh, God, nothing.

I just know, it just looks kind of eh to me.

- We like (indistinct) hot.

- Okay.

- The makeup wasn't- - That could be worse.

- If we're dressed in the next hour and a half, we're fine.

- [Akua] At least some, just to calm the vibe.

- Yeah, let me ask how.

(poor sound quality) (people indistinct chatting) - I like this one.

(Akua laughs) - [Crew] I can't say anything because- - [Rebecca] With the themes of this collection, the Free Jazz Movement, where barriers were being broken, and they were really coming up with a new way of introducing rhythms, and tones, and modalities.

(eerie music) I think it's just really critical for the times that we're living in, and just imagining yourself in different realms and different possibilities.

(eerie music) So, in this collection, we're referring to that Free Jazz Movement and that exploration.

(everyone cheers and laughs) (gentle music) - Putting my boots on, this is the last part.

(people indistinct chatting) See all of you tomorrow.

- [Model] No, she invited me.

- I like (indistinct) (people indistinct chatting) Okay, so we need to place them in the front.

- 10, one through 12, 11?

12.

(energetic drum music) You stop right, did you?

(energetic drum music) (eerie music) (eerie music) (eerie music) (intense music) (light jazzy music) (light jazzy music) (energetic jazzy music) (energetic jazzy music) (audience applauds) (lively music) - [Rebecca] This is just my ride-and-die person right here.

So, I mean, things are tough.

We argue, we fight, we make up, and we keep it pushing.

And I mean, we keep it pushing.

- [Akua] Yeah, I think our relationship continues to evolve through the process of the collections.

It may bring out emotions, it may bring out feelings, it may bring out, you know, more discovery, and I think that's cool.

(lively music) (lively music) (lively music)