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FRONTLINE/World Rough Cut
Smugglers bottle warehouse transporting by horse

Rough Cut
Iraq: The Alcohol Smugglers
Kurds deliver contraband liquor to Iran
 

 

Karzan Sherabayani

A native of Kirkuk, Karzan Sherabayani went to live in Italy in 1980, where he created his own Kurdish theater company. He learned film and television production at Tele Europa and trained to become an actor. In 1992, Sherabayani moved to England. After living in exile for 25 years, he returned to Kirkuk three times in 2005. From these visits, he produced and directed the feature-length documentary Return to Kirkuk about his experiences. So far this year, he has produced three documentaries, including "Wrongful Death," "Forced Repatriation," and this story about alcohol smuggling.

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Length: 6:50

With Iraq mired in a chaotic civil war, those who can get out are doing so. According to the latest United Nations figures, 50,000 Iraqis a month are now leaving their country. Those who remain try to survive any way they can, like the resourceful Kurdish smugglers in this week's Rough Cut.

Our regular reporter Karzan Sherabayani returned to Iraqi Kurdistan early this year to bring us another story of how life is deteriorating in his homeland. On this trip, he traveled to the mountains along the Iraq-Iran border, where a fruitful, albeit illicit, trade is thriving.

If you recall, Sherabayani is a Kurdish exile living in Britain. In previous reports for us he revealed the escalating violence on the streets of Kirkuk after spending a day with the city's beleaguered police chief; and reported on what's at stake economically for the Kurds, as they sit on some of the largest oil reserves in the world.

Sherabayani is an actor turned documentary filmmaker and his former profession has given him an easygoing charm on camera that lets him push aside formality and quickly get to the heart of what is ailing his fellow Kurds.

In the opening scene we see a trail of horses wending its way through the Kurdish mountains during a fierce snowstorm. The animals are loaded with boxes of alcohol destined for Iran. Sherabayani reports that more than $2.5 million worth of liquor a day is transported this way in a smuggling operation run almost exclusively by enterprising Kurds on both sides of the border. Trade has been going on this way for centuries, Sherabayani says, but today's payload has a distinctly modern ring. Bottles of Johnnie Walker Red Label, Absolut vodka, French cognac and Italian wine rattle their way hourly into the Islamic Republic, where alcohol has been banned since the Islamic Revolution nearly three decades ago.

And smuggling is no easy job. "They [the Iranian border guards] started shooting at me," one young Iranian Kurd tells Sherabayani (many of the smugglers are still in their teens). "I tried to escape, but ended up stepping on a landmine. Both my horses were killed, and I was badly injured."

When Sherabayani arrives at the makeshift trading camp, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, he is told that the previous night 16 horses were killed while making the crossing into Iran. Even smugglers who are too poor to buy a horse and must walk the two hours to the border can earn $10 a trip. That's a lot for a marginalized Kurd living in Iran, we're told. It's also about the cost of two beers at any of the clandestine drinking clubs across Tehran, where young, elite Iranians gather to embrace a Western lifestyle condemned by their government. With 60 percent of Iran's population under the age of 35, it's no surprise there's such a lucrative trade in illegal alcohol and other frowned upon imports, such as Western pop music and designer fashion labels.

When Sherabayani asks one young Kurd, bundled up against the cold, who he thinks is consuming all this alcohol, he replies, "Everyone drinks it. They all love it. Even the Mullahs," he says, to the amusement of his fellow smugglers. "They're the first."

So much for probity, let alone prohibition.

-- Jackie Bennion

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REACTIONS

(anonymous)
All Iranians have suffered through the Islamic Repulic, their laws. The Kurds are not suffereing because they are Kurds, they are suffering because they are seen as Iranians under the Islamic Republic, this means everyone must abide by "their" Islamic Laws. If it's possible for the Kurds to separate themselves from the country, to escape from suffering like everyone else in Iran, heck I would want it too! I'm with you, but if we all stick together (as humans), and get rid of this tyranny that's hurting us all, one way or another, it will be better for all of us.

Dr. Mani - Toronto, Canada
Although the Kurds are part of the Indo-Iranian family tree, this can not deny them their right of freedom and self-determination. Over 2500 years of Persian empire and Islamic-Shia tyrannies there was not even one single Kurdish government member or minister allowed to be part of the political system! If you open your eyes properly and make your mind free of stupidity, Kurdistan exists with over half a million square kilometer area with a population of 60 million. No matter whether we like it or not, Kurds have a right of their own government -- either in one great Kurdistan or as a federal state as part of their neighboring countries. But the goal for Middle Easterners should be a kind of a Middle East Union in which all the citizens are equal and there is no artificial border existing. The same as EU. It will come one day for sure.

(anonymous)
The smuggling of alcohol from Iraq to Iran and the serious consequences that the smugglers sometimes pay are news to me. I was unaware that alcohol is permitted in Iraq while it is forbidden in Iran, despite the fact that both of these countries are Muslim. Although this operation is illegal and involves alcohol, which is a sin even in some religions found in the United States, I cannot say that I disapprove of it. The fact that this operation is the only job that some Kurdish men can get makes it vital to them. I cannot imagine what the injured man who was interviewed would do without his smuggling job; he said he has a wife and two kids to sustain. If smuggling alcohol is what keeps a poor person and his family alive, then I cannot condemn this illicit operation. At least the Kurds are not smuggling guns or other weapons that could aid in the violence already inflicted towards many of Iran's citizens.

Vienna, VA
This is a dated, but interesting story. The continued consumption of alcohol as well as the satellite dishes on virtually every home in Tehran, Iran, shows that while the Islamic government sets policy, the Iranian people find a way to survive. In addition, the price for the alcohol at the camp was relatively inexpensive, likely meaning that it was smuggled into Iraq without paying duties leaving Europe or entering Iraq. I found it interesting that the smuggling was done both as pack trains of horses as well as on foot by individuals. I would have expected this type of undertaking to be more organized and controlled by a mafia like structure. The report would also have benefited from some discussion of the security measures taken by the smugglers and the sellers to avoid Iranian and Iraqi interference.

(anonymous)
I think these people should continue doing what they are doing. There are more serious matters simultaneously occurring involving suppression of human rights, free speech and others in Iran for example, and people are discussing the legality of this liquor smuggling? Nonsense.

(anonymous)
(anonymous) - "There is no difference between Lors and Kurds and others. Why the Kurds always think they are different?"
Are you comparing a population of 3 million Lors to a population of over 50 million Kurds. Are you a fool? And Azad, You call the Kurds a Persian tribe that should go back to Iran. And your name is KURDISH!

- Reston, VA
I have always known the situation in Iran and Iraq is tenuous. That is why we see so many Iranian and Iraqis immigrants in North American alone. When I hear they risk their lives all for $10.00 it makes me laugh at the fact that I have relatives living in middle class North America who get mad because we don't show our love by sending them gifts. I should send this article to them instead!!!!

(anonymous)
Although I do not encourage illegal activity, I understand people must do what they can to survive. At least they are not a big country trying to sale weapons to kill others.

(anonymous)
This reporter is brave to follow those who get shot and killed while trying to make this rough journey. I did not know that alcohol had been banned in Islamic areas and that there was such a large business in smuggling alcohol. Prohibition never works and always brings a black market and death. Goods like alcohol and marijuana should be legal to all residents of all countries. I also did not know that so many people are leaving these areas. Fifty thousand is a large number of people to be leaving an area and it should send a message to those in power.

Matt Tisdale - Reston, VA
I think any sort of prohibition is silly and doomed for failure in the long run. Making liquor illegal is not going to make the people wanting it want it any less; they are just going to pay a higher price for it. And in this situation with the Kurds, who Iranians hate are turning a profit. So in essence they are making a way of life for their enemy and wasting resources trying to stop the flow of illegal liquors across the already disregarded borders. My opinion is they become forward looking and see that the people who want to drink, are going to. You are not preserving the virtues of any of Iranian Muslims with this law. Make it legal like all other modern countries, impose a drinking age and tax it, but maybe that's just the American way of thinking.

Fairfax, VA
This is a shameful situation. The Kurds in Iraq and Iran are caught between a rock and a hard place. They can either stay economically depressed in their respective countries and go against their beliefs or they can stay strict in their beliefs and not engage in this sort of commerce. I also wonder why some (especially the Iranian Kurds) do this for so little profit? Also, any country involved in this region has to look at their roles in economic sanctions, occupations, etc. to see why there is all this smuggling. The Iranian and Iraqi governments have had help over the years in the economic depression of their countries.

Centreville, VA
I am not surprised that there is smuggling occurring in parts of the world, although I was surprised to learn that alcohol was the item in this case. I did not realize that alcohol had been banned in Islam. I also learned about the discrimination that exists between the Kurds and the Persians. This has caused unfair conditions for the Kurds, forcing them to do whatever it is that they can in order to provide for their families. I was also shocked that one would be paid only $10 for their efforts! You would think that one's life would be worth more than that.

(anonymous)
I do not think that it is because of the oppression of the government that these Kurds choose to illegally smuggle alcohol across the Iranian government, although they do face some oppression from their government. I think that like any other country, or like America during prohibition, illegal smuggling is going to happen whenever people cannot freely buy what they want. It seems to me that even though this dangerous business might be illegal, it is also very profitable for the ones willing to deliver the alcohol. I think that to blame the government for making them sell illegal alcohol to survive, is not right. I am not saying that these people would not live oppressed lives if they did not sell alcohol, because I honestly do not know what type of "oppression" they face. However, though, I believe that the government did not force them to do anything illegal. I think that the pay of the illegal act they so willingly perform is enough in their minds to risk dying. Like in any country running illegal things is very dangerous but the payoffs are larger than any other job they could be working. I think that while the government might not have forced them into selling illegal alcohol, the alcohol runners are not going to stop now. In their minds the profit is good and they need to smuggle alcohol in order for them and their families to survive.

anonymous - not listing, not listing
You've got to do what you have to do to survive and support your family. It may seem wrong but think about what you would do in their situation.

(anonymous)
I am amazed by the comments of Muhammad and Azad. These people don't have jobs in Iran, they are Kurds. Most of employment in Iran is government jobs, if you are not a Shiaa Muslim, it would be hard to find a job. These people are doing it [smuggling alcohol] to survive and feed their families. The world accepts the independence of East Timor and Kosovo, each with less than 2 million people, yet 40 million Kurds have no right to have a place call it home? The countries in which Kurds reside, they have tried to use everythings in their power to eliminate or eradicate Kurdish identity.

(anonymous)
This shows the contradiction between what people claim to believe and what actually they do. Although we all know that alcohol is a poison, but if you are denied the right to poison yourself you'd rather do it! Of course the smugglers do not think they are doing something wrong! Their motivation is to survive. But I think it's a business for the people at the top of what is going on. The others are only tools to make wealth for the top layer.

Lance Thomas - Charlotte, NC
The Kurds, as an apparently disrespected minority in their homeland, are only doing what those with the least to lose seem to do all over the world. They take what others see as big risks in return for big profits (or at least big relative to their ready alternatives) by providing all those "black market" goods and services that their neighbors demand, but which they are prohibited from using their hard-earned money to buy legally. Such markets are forced upon every nation in the world by their rulers - typically for silly, naive, self-serving or illogical reasons. The items prohibited vary from nation to nation. But, ALL the nations on earth seem to forbid something which is highly desired by some (or even all) and which was once allowed - at least since the early 20th century this has been true.

(anonymous)
In Iran there are many different tribes and ethnics, Lor, Kord, Baluch etc. Should every one of them have their own country? Lorestan as a country? There is no difference between Lors and Kurds and others. Why the Kurds always think they are different?

(anonymous)
I am sure this is not the ONLY way they can make money, but for them it is EASY money. They don't want to produce anything, the village economy, rural economy is difficult to keep, agriculture is difficult, but smuggling is easy. That's why they do it. They do not try to organize themselves to make a good business based on production, as the reporter says, this has been going on for centuries in that area. Smuggling is easy, thinking, organizing, and producing and living a nice life is difficult.

Scott - Allen, Texas
I don't understand why these men risk their lives every day of the year to make such little profit. They say it's their only means of survival, but is there no other legal profession in Iraq that they could pursue? If they are just smuggling alcohol in because of tradition or because the people of Iran cannot legally have it, then it is, I'm sorry to say, their own fault if one of them is shot on the Iranian border. I would like to see Iran liberated as Iraq has been, but until that time these brave but foolish men are risking their own peril. But if it is truly their only option at making money, I completely support what they are doing, though alcohol is not a necessity.

Azad - Toronro, canada
The Kurds don't want to join any country or any government...They just want to create a crises to obtain a country of Kurdistan, which has NEVER existed anywhere geographicalyy, except a fantasy in their minds. The Kurds are merely a Persian tribe and they should go to Iran and be satisfied there. End of subject.

muhamad butt - oklahoma city, ok
The Kurds do have rights in Iran, however as usual they pursue activities that are not beneficial to either side. They should try to help their own people rather than using them and feeding them the big lie of "Kurdistan."

 

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