fat used in its preparation can define virtually every kind of cooking.
For the Jews of Eastern Europe, schmaltz ruled. Because of the dietary
laws, they couldn't use butter with meat or lard at all as a grease
for cooking. Schmaltz, the fat from geese (and occasionally chicken)
was available and cheap. Inventive Jewish cooks made a virtue of
necessity and schmaltz became a way of life. Charlie Klatskin from
New Jersey renders the classic gribenes - chicken skin and onions
cooked in chicken fat, which he happily smears on bread for a traditional
and substantial nosh. Then, combining some of the finest French
and Jewish culinary traditions, Ariane Daguin, owner of New York's
D'Artagnan restaurant, roasts a whole goose with braised cabbage,
flavored with - what else - schmaltz.