Marcel Khalife is often described in articles as the "Bob Dylan of the Middle East." (In my preparation for this trip, by the way, I discovered two different women described as the "Oprah of the Middle East").

Hezbollah by day and Dunkin' Donuts by night. And that was just our first 24 hours in Beirut. I didn't go into the Dunkin' Donuts shop; I just stared in the window. Wherever we go around the world, the brands…