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Balloon Flight Over Ancient Thebes
by Peter Tyson
March 12, 1999
One of the best ways to get a sense of the monumental
architecture that obelisks epitomize is to fly over some of
its finest examples in a balloon, as we did yesterday. Relive
the flight with us now as we ponder from above the great
mortuary temples of the Theban necropolis.
Take-Off
Yesterday dawned clear and still, with not a breath of wind -
ideal ballooning weather. As the balloon crew waved us off, we
ascended a few feet a second into the cloudless sky over the
West Bank of Luxor. Bushy fields of grain, their heads heavy
with ripe seed, spread east to the Nile about a mile away.
Every now and then, our amiable pilot Yehia would fire up the
gas jet, sending an obelisk of flame and the necessary hot air
into the balloon's cavernous interior. Catching us off guard,
the loud whoosh of the gas would suddenly extinguish all
conversation. Otherwise, it was so silent you could hear a
fellahin urging his donkey along a path 700 feet below.
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Our balloon prepares for take-off from a field in
Luxor.
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Thebes, as Luxor was known in ancient times, was the most
important capital of the New Kingdom. The East Bank, facing
the rising sun, boasted the glorious
temples of Karnak and Luxor,
where the pharaohs prayed to their favorite god, Amun, one of
the gods of creation. By contrast, the West Bank, facing the
setting sun, held the necropolis or burying ground of the
kings and queens, each in their own valley. It also featured a
string of immense mortuary temples, where bald-headed priests
worshipped the memory of the now-deified pharaoh long after
his passage to the netherworld.
See the Colossi of Memnon at the top of this photo?
Amenophis III's mortuary temple once entirely filled
the brown field behind them.
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The Colossi of Memnon
Despite the boasting of its builder Amenophis III that it
would be everlasting, the vast mortuary temple that once stood
in back of the
Colossi of Memnon has
completely disappeared. Flooding and stone robbing have left
but an empty field. Ironically, only the foundations remain of
this sandstone edifice, the largest structure ever built on
the West Bank.
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Our balloon rises between the Colossi of Memnon.
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The New Kingdom reached a peak of prosperity and peace under
Amenophis III (1408-1372), who was one of the great builders
of the period. He erected Luxor Temple on the East Bank, and
his mortuary temple was only one part of a huge complex known
as the "House of Amun on the West of Thebes." The House also
featured a harbor and an entire palace city of mudbrick that
Amenophis III ordered built on the edge of the desert.
Continue: The Ramesseum
Explore Ancient Egypt
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