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Editor's Note: The following dispatch was written on
February 17, but received on February 20, due to
communications difficulties. For more on that subject, see
Transmitting from a Fish Bucket.
A Slow Poach
February 17, 1998
By Mark Hoover
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I've just finished a day that was about as full—of
images, discoveries, and revelations—as a day can
possibly be. I'm sweating, ruing my sunburned shoulders, and I
can't wait for more. Once again, I find myself typing away in
the dark. It's the only quiet time of the day on a small boat
with 12 other people aboard. I'm having some trouble with the
computer tonight, but I think it's due to the heat. The author
Jonathan Weiner commented that El Niño happens when the
Pacific Ocean runs a fever. Here at Ground Zero is where a lot
of that feverish heat is released back into the atmosphere.
The ocean does not refresh you when you swim in it; it feels
like it's the same temperature as your own body. I understand
now how its heat can affect many of the creatures that inhabit
it. Call it a slow poach.
We are at anchor, in a narrow channel separating two islands,
surrounded on both sides by the rising masses of volcanoes
that ascend a mile into the atmosphere. To the west on
Isabella is Volcán Darwin, and to the east, on
Fernandina, is Volcán Lacumbre. As Fernando, our
naturalist, explains it, island building is going on here
following much the same model as is found in Hawaii: lots of
slow-motion eruptions that release floods of low-viscosity
lava that flow like chilled syrup over the hardened surface of
the previous eruption. The Galapagos, says Fernando, are among
the most active island volcanic groups in the world.
Because the islands are only a few million years old, they
have not had time to wear down much, except along the shore,
where the waves cut the soft volcanic rock into terraces. The
Galapagos sit over a "hot spot" deep in the mantle, which
injects magma through the overlying crust with regularity, and
renew the surface. The last eruption was in 1995, very near
our mooring point on Fernandina. I ask Mike if there's
anything to the idea that undersea volcanism contributes to El
Niño. He smiles, and it's clear this isn't the first
time he's been asked. "There's a principle in science called
Occam's Razor, dating back to William of Occam, a philosopher
in the 13th century who battled it out with Thomas Aquinas. A
lot of scientists invoke it, including me. The idea is, the
simpler the explanation for something, the more likely it is
to be right. I can explain El Niño using only the
interactions between the atmosphere and the ocean. I don't
need a volcano to help out." (See the
FAQ section
for more discussion on this topic)
We've had to travel all night through a rolling sea to get
here by morning. I never realized how much territory the
Galapagos Islands consume; by boat, which is your only option,
it can take days to traverse from one end of the range to the
other.
As we passed around the northern point of Isabella late last
night, I watched the wake of our boat. A bioluminescent alga
inhabits the water, and when it is stirred up by the boat's
passage, something stimulates the release of a blue spark of
light. The effect is mesmerizing. As the boat slices through
the black water, it is illuminated from below by what seems a
cascade of tiny underwater meteors. A turbulent pale blue
contrail marks our passage in the waters behind us. These
warm-water algae are not common in the cold upwelling that
usually surrounds the islands, and Mike McPhaden is surprised.
"This is something you usually only see far west of here."
Mike has cruised to most of the mooring points of the TOGA/TAO
buoy array, which stretches from here almost to Australia, so
he should know.
We are here to examine El Niño in the context of the
creatures who inhabit these islands, to observe its effects on
them, and to gather with our own eyes, noses, and fingers
information that cannot be gotten from a book. Mike, our
scientist-in-residence, and our Ecuadorian naturalists Froylan
and Fernando, are especially excited by the morning's
junket—a trip to Punta Espinosa, where a spit of rock
leads to a weird rust-colored moonscape of pahoehoe lava,
riddled by giant cracks and fissures, and dotted with tidal
pools. Pahoehoe is a Hawaiian word referring to lava with a
relatively smooth, curtain-like surface that sometimes
involutes, or folds over on itself, in great sheets. It is the
lava of Mauna Loa. This is prime territory for the marine
iguana, a docile vegetarian with protective spikes, black lips
and a dinosaur's vaguely evil mien. Yet these peaceful
creatures dine only on a seaweed found in abundance here, a
seaweed that cannot tolerate sudden changes in the temperature
of the sea. During the disastrous 1982 El Niño, more
than half of these ancient lizards perished, and those that
didn't looked markedly thin. We are anxious to know their fate
this year.
Part of the camera crew got up early this morning to shoot
underwater sequences in a place off Isla Fernandina favored by
turtles. The television show next fall will discuss the
effects of El Niño on the green sea turtle, and our
diving advisor and naturalist Fernando was up before dawn
getting things ready. He's lived here a dozen years, but you'd
think he got here yesterday, to judge by his enthusiasm. The
population of the entire Galapagos archipelago is only 20,000,
so Fernando is a member of a select community indeed.
While the crew was diving, I made my own discovery of a small
geyser. It periodically belched a spray of water and vile
fumes into the air, and it gave me a snootful the first time I
peered at it. Unfortunately, this geyser was in the bathroom
sink drain on the Orca, and it was belching "tank gas" as the
boat rocked in the water. Sometimes one must suffer for one's
art. I decided to forego shaving.
Soon we loaded the launch for the short journey to Punta
Espinola. We landed in craggy place of mangroves and tidal
pools. The mangroves support one of the very few mammals on
the Galapagos, the Galapagos bat (the others are the rice rat,
and sea lions). Although we saw no bats, we saw communities of
crabs clinging to the rocks near the mangrove roots. No
apparent problems there.
Farther up the point, an iguana squatted in the shade of a
lava fissure. He was not alone. Soon it was apparent that
other iguanas had claimed most of the shady places in the
rocks around us. As we tread the broken stone and hardened
lava of the path, we came across dead iguanas as well,
sometimes accompanied by small lizards who picked at their
bones. Victims of El Niño, or part of the natural cycle
of life and death, we could not say. Fernando said that the
seaweed upon which the iguanas feed had suffered, but not yet
to the point of starving the iguanas.
Straying from the film crew for a few minutes, I chanced
across a series of pools where a small group of sea lions had
taken up residence. At one end, a male and female lolled in
the water, napping side by side. The males are twice the size
of the females, and develop a characteristic hump on the
forehead. They are also the ones who guard the pools and the
young, and bark at encroachers (although usually not at
humans, whom they largely ignore). A solitary female sleeps
not far from the pool under a piece of driftwood, groggily
opening her eyes as I bend closer for a photograph. Her tiny
ears twitch, however, as the males vocalizes in the distance,
and I conclude she is part of his harem.
The majority of the sea lion diet is sardines, and along the
South American coast, sea lion populations are in trouble in
direct proportion to the crash of the sardine fishery. Here in
Galapagos, there are still some sardines to eat, and sea lion
mortality has been low so far. In 1982, there was a massive
die-off, caused both by direct starvation, and by abandonment
of young.
In a neighboring pool, sea lions made sport of a marine
iguana, using the unfortunate reptile as the ball in a game of
water polo. Flipping the lizard through the air with their
noses, they seemed to delight in watching it land in the water
and resolutely begin swimming again for shore, and they would
wait until the lizard had almost made it ashore before
launching it skyward again. After a while, they tired of this,
and the unharmed iguana pulled itself from the water and
retreated into a crevice.
In his notebooks Charles Darwin wrote about his own iguana
sport, in which, from this very spot, he repeatedly tossed an
iguana out into the sea, only to watch it swim directly back
to him (the shortest distance to land), so he could toss it
out again, like a stick that fetches itself. As Mike says,
it's curious how nature shapes the brains of creatures without
predators.
We reload the launch and head across the channel to Urvina,
where we hope to observe Darwin's finches. Arriving an hour
later, we find the landscape is utterly different from Punta
Espinosa, a place of scrub trees, grasses and plenty of green
undergrowth attesting to the frequent rains El Niño has
brought. The finches are abundant; generally, they are net
winners in El Niño years here, because the seeds they
prefer are more plentiful; however, subtle changes in things
like their beak and body shapes during El Niño periods
shows that they carry in their genes evidence of the influence
of past El Niños (<The Beak of the Finch>, listed
in the <Resources> section, tells more about this
remarkable phenomenon).
After an hour of hiking we chance across a geochelone, whose
name in Latin means "earth turtle." During El Niño
years, the giant tortoises come down from their normal
locations in the volcanic highlands to take up temporary
residence in the lowlands. We observe the tortoise in a rare
behavior: picking the desiccated meat off the bones of a dead
lizard. Normally, these tortoises are vegetarians; Fernando
speculates that perhaps because the tortoise is off his normal
feed, so to speak, he is trying to obtain missing nutrients.
After a while the tortoise plods off into the underbrush.
Hiking back to shore, we perch on black boulders lining the
beach. As the crew puts it, "it's time for some beauty shots."
The sun is setting, and Mike points out in the high clouds
above Volcán Lacumbre to the west as evidence of
diversion of the winds around the landmass of the islands,
like a rock deflecting the flow of a stream.
"In some ways, El Niño works on a large scale the same
way these volcanoes act on a small scale—as a deflection
in a stream. Here we see the winds curving around the
obstruction of the islands, a mile or more up. Now think on a
global scale. El Niño sits out here in the central and
eastern Pacific, and the normal flow of winds is deflected
around it. Ripples from this effect create turbulence
downstream. Now think of storms as leaves in a stream. The
storms are fluttered about by the ripples, like leaves, and
move to places they normally wouldn't go. Just ask someone
from Oregon or California."
Suddenly it is dark. We scramble to load the boat before the
blackness completely overtakes us.
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