|

|

|
Responses and Comments #2
April 22, 1997
Question:
Hello and congratulations on your good progress so far. I
know that the longer you're exposed to the thin air at
altitude the more adapted you become. However, from your
past experience what determines the approximate altitude at
which you no longer can adapt and altitude sickness begins?
Climbing abilities aside, are certain individuals just more
adaptable than others or can anyone adapt given optimal
training, physical conditioning and diet? Good to luck to
you all and especially to fellow Hoosier and friend David
Carter.
Paul Kite
Response from Base Camp:
There is no ideal person yet who adapts better to altitude
than others, but there are some subtle indicators that have
been found that may aid in a person's performance at
altitude. By that same token, there are some people whose
profiles will say they won't do well, and yet they end up
performing well at altitude. Some of the indicators that we
think will aid someone at altitude (regardless of physical
training and diet) are lung size and capacity, blood oxygen
saturation, and hypoxic ventilatory response. There is some
evidence that having more intracranial space between your
brain and skull will make you less prone to headaches which
may make you more prone to acclimatizing. We generally
consider going to Camp III as the highest point one can
adapt to. We believe that a night or 2 at 24,500 (Camp III)
feet is the highest one can positively adapt to. If you're
like Ed Viesturs and want to climb without oxygen to the
summit a trip to the South Col is probably beneficial. We
have not seen any climbers, to date, who can adapt to
altitudes beyond Camp IV (26,000 feet). At this point,
humans generally deteriorate and become weakened with
time.
Dr. Tom Hornbein adds:
Regarding predictors of performance, there are indeed a few
physiologic hints but when you get down to the moment of
truth, putting one foot above the other day after day, it's
what's in the head that seems to count most, that is
stubborn commitment (coupled with judgment helps). I suspect
our team will concur.
It's generally thought that the maximum altitude at which
humans can stay permanently is about that of the Everest
Base Camp. This belief is based on the simple observation
that that's the highest known habitation, namely at a mining
community in Chile. I like to think that above that
altitude, man is a transient guest. Initially the benefits
of acclimatization are dominant, so net performance
improves, but with time a process of wasting—so-called
high altitude deterioration—becomes dominant so if we
stay too high too long we begin to go downhill (figuratively
and likely literally as well). The timeline for crossover of
these two competing forces of opposite sign is hard to
define but both are probably accelerated the higher one
goes. And as the process of acclimatization becomes more
complete and slows, the process of wasting becomes
increasingly dominant.
Above 8000 m. (approximately 26,000 feet) we don't know
whether the rate of acclimatization is increased but we sure
do believe m one can linger if not thrive is measured in
hours to a few days. These impressions are based on
anecdotal experience and the climbers are that the time one
can linger if not thrive is measured in hours to a few days.
These impressions are based on anecdotal experience and our
team of climbers are living with as much of this as anyone
has.
Question:
How much equipment must be carried to each camp to get you
to the top? How many climbers are making the final summit
assault? Vaya con Dios!
M. Reidy
Response from Base Camp:
Equipment carried to each camp will consist of food, fuel,
personal gear and oxygen. It is too early to get a number of
climbers that will be on the final push to the summit.
David Carter
Question:
I just want you gentlemen to know how happy and excited you
have made a 55 year old, Type II diabetic woman from the
City of Brotherly Love. For no reason that I can figure out,
I have always been fascinated with Everest, and now because
of you, I will get the closest chance that I will ever have
to being there. My 56th birthday is on the 15th of May. I
was just wondering if you will still be on the mountain, or
will your climb be over by then? Be safe and blessed by
whatever Higher Power you each believe in.
Most sincerely yours,
LoAnn Anderson
Response from Base Camp:
Yes to your question of being on the mountain around May 15.
We will be making our summit attempts about this time.
Happy Birthday,
David Carter
Question:
Does going to extreme altitude make you bald like Dr.
Hornbein?
TE Lawrence
Seattle, WA
Response from Base Camp:
From Breashears:
"Having read that well known high altitude tome
Everest: The West Ridge, it is obvious from the
photographs therein that Dr. Hornbein was already receding
before he had ever stepped foot on Everest. We think that
the lack of hair cover allows for increased oxygenation of
the brain, which is why Tom is such a smart guy and Brownie
is always trying to catch up.
From Athans:
"Needlessly said, there is an abundance of Rogane and
Grecian Formula here at BC."
Question:
Has the tragedy that occurred on Everest last year changed
your climbing tactics in any significant way?
Michael Hergert
Coronado, CA
Response from Base Camp:
No, it hasn't but it has reaffirmed why we have always taken
a very conservative tact in our summit attempts in regards
to the timing, amount of oxygen, number of Sherpas, and
weather conditions.
Question:
I think NOVA's Alive on Everest effort is just terrific. It
allows us ordinary folk to vicariously experience a
dangerous yet beautiful place. I do have a question for the
mountaineers though. For most people, climbing Mount Everest
is practically impossible. Are there any activities closer
to home and more accessible to the general public that give
you similar rewards or experiences? How does climbing Mount
Everest compare to climbing other peaks? Is there no
comparison?
James Kao
Cambridge, MA
Response from Base Camp:
There are many other great peaks in the world which present
equal or greater technical challenges than Everest. While no
longer the sina qua non of mountaineering challenges,
Everest is the highest and it is the lack of oxygen at its
great elevation that differentiates it from lesser peaks.
Question:
What is the weather like today? Has anyone had problems with
the altitude? How much does it cost to go on an expedition
like this?
Best wishes from the Gilbert, Iowa elementary school.
Response from Base Camp:
We woke up this morning to clear sunny skies and a
temperature of 5 degrees F. As is typical for the region it
clouded up in the afternoon with gusty winds and a high of
40 degrees. At the moment it's 5:00 p.m. and overcast with a
temperature of 30 degrees and my fingers are frozen typing
this message. So far, there have been no major problems for
us here up high. But we've all felt the affects of the
thinner air more here than at our homes in the USA. It costs
approximately $20,000 per person to run an expedition like
this to Mount Everest.
Question:
It's interesting to read the questions and responses. Here's
my question, which you can post if you'd like: What
photography equipment is along on your expedition this year?
Did the IMAX camera (a.k.a. "The Pig") make the trip
again?
Deb Karl
Response from Base Camp:
We did not bring the IMAX camera this year as the principal
photography for that film produced by MacGillivray-Freeman
Films and Arcturus Motion Pictures has been completed. We
are currently shooting digital video and 16mm film on the
mountain. Other 'photography equipment' includes 35mm
cameras for the Quick Time VR and Apple QuickTake cameras
for digital stills.
Question:
Hello Liesl and David! Hope all that traffic on the mountain
isn't slowing your work down? How have you been managing?
We're doing our own physiology and endurance project and are
wondering if we could get the team's resting, walking around
basecamp and active pulse rates at whatever altitude it's
taken. We'd like to compare ours with yours. We'll also be
collecting data on breaths/minute at rest, walking and
active moments. Could you give us that data, too? It could
be at different times, convenient to you. Thanks. Warm hugs,
Nancy Ferguson's third graders. PS. We love your webpages
and read them almost every day.
Nancy Ferguson's Third Grade Class
Newton, MA
Response from Base Camp:
Hi to Nancy Ferguson's third grade class from Liesl and
David. Here are a few stats on our pulse rates: Our resting
pulse rates at Base Camp are around 60 - 65. Walking around
camp, our pulse rates are around 85 - 95. Working around
camp or hiking is around 130. David and Pete report that on
a hot day in the Western Cwm carrying a load their pulse
rates are around 160.Breaths per minute at Camp II while
lying on back in tent is about 22 per minute. It varies at
ABC from 22 at rest to 40 at mild work to 60-70 at hard
work. All our best and good luck with your own results.
Question:
We have two grandchildren that are home-study students and
we have made this an assignment of current events (well, my
daughter has) but grandpa likes to help! We, being in
Indiana are expecially concerned and delighted to have you,
David Carter, taking part in the wonderful event! We are
also forwarding everything we can to our son, stationed in
England, to keep him informed of your progress! Bless you
all! Claire wants to know your different ways of keeping
warm and do you sing songs?
Thanks,
Charles Stanton
Indiana
Response from Base Camp:
It is good to hear from a fellow Hoosier. I stay warm by
drinking a lot of water so I can stay hydrated. I also have
good quality gear. I really don't sing a lot. I have a
problem, I can't hold a note.
David Carter
Question:
As a Television News Photographer, equipment maintenance
& preparation for assignments is essential. Briefly,
describe ways to protect your film equipment from the harsh
elements of Everest.
Bryan Rager
Response from Base Camp:
1) Our major concern is our power supply. Conventional
batteries will not power up in low temperatures and they
also they have to be recharged. We use a non rechargeable
lithium battery which ounce for ounce has 5 times the power
of a Nicad and operates at full power to 35 below zero. 2)
We've had custom neoprene camera-tight covers made to
prevent windblown snow from getting into fragile mechanisms
on our digital video camera. The filmmakers are much more
concerned about their abilities to perform in the cold and
altitude than the camera's ability. 3) We have to keep all
film equipment sealed in plastic bags in our tents because
of the fluctuating temperatures and the condensation caused
inside our tents from our breaths. Later, when we go outside
the steam from our breath can condense and freeze and then
fog the lenses.
Question:
You must have to take along an incredible amount of
supplies. Do you carry ALL of your own supplies, and how
much weight would that be? About how many bottles of oxygen
do you use, and do you personally carry all of them? Good
luck and good weather to all of you.
Greygoat
Response from Base Camp:
The bulk of the load carrying is for the Sherpas. Pete and I
carry some of our own gear, but we have to carry film and
stills gear with us so we can shoot along the way. The
Sherpas have carried approximately 35 loads up to Advanced
Base Camp (CII) and each are about 45/50 pounds. On the
summit day, everyone on the South Col is allocated 1 bottle
for sleeping at flow rate of .5 liters per minute. On the
summit climb, we carry 2 bottles at 2 liters per minute. It
takes 2 bottles to get up and part way down, and then we go
without oxygen on the rest of our descent to Camp IV. Two
additional bottles will be carried by 2 of our Sherpas for
emergency use. Unlike many of the guided parties, we do not
use oxygen from Camp III to Camp IV.
David Breashears
Question:
Hi guys! We heard there has been a lot of late snowfall in
the Khumbu this year. Have climbing schedules changed as a
result? What do the other expedition groups think of your
web access and the media attention it is bringing to
basecamp? How many groups are climbing and what countries
are they from? How will the groups determine summit
bid/attempt dates? Best Wishes to all teams this year!
Erin Kittleman
Response from Base Camp:
Snowfall in the Khumba has not been a problem. We have had
snow flurries in the late afternoon. It really has been a
dry year. There are a lot of people on the mountain this
year. There are about nine teams. I would say that there are
a lot of people on the mountain this year. There are about
nine teams. I would say that there are more than 150 people
on the route this year.
David Carter
Of the nine or so expeditions at Base Camp, several of them
have web sites of their own. We know that the Malaysians
have 7 satellite phones and a web site. Our neighbors, the
Colliers Lotus Everest Expedition, also have their own web
site at www.everest97.com.
Question:
Hello to the NOVA Mt. Everest Expedition! We are anxiously
following your journey up the mountain passage to Mt.
Everest. We have followed other journeys from NOVA in the
past. The
Ice Mummies of Peru were also
inspiring. We certainly wish you all the best fortune in the
world and will continue to follow your journey. One of the
members of your staff named on the Web Site is Liesl Clark.
She was a member of the expedition in Peru. She served as
the photographer in that expedition. In what capacity is she
serving this Mt. Everest expedition? The Web Site mentions
photographer, but exactly where is she and what are her
duties. Will she be joining this climb at any time? If so,
at what point will she join the climbers? Ms. Clark had
written a very nice message to my fifth grade class and the
students recognized her name. They are wondering what her
job is in this expedition.Again, best of luck!
Sharon Simon,
Fifth Grade Instructor
Helen Smith,
Adult Assistant
Barboursville, WV
Response from Base Camp:
Hello to Sharon Simon's Fifth Grade class. I'm here at Base
Camp co-producing the NOVA high altitude documentary with
David Breashears and producing, writing, and photographing
(sometimes) the web site in situ. Those are my
official duties. I have been with the climb from Day 1 in
Kathmandu, but unfortunately I must stay at Base Camp while
David, Pete, Ed, Carter, and Jangbu go into the Icefall and
beyond. Perhaps some day... All my best to you from the
frozen world of glaciers, avalanches, and clanging yak
bells.
Liesl
Question:
I am 9 years old and my daddy who is 40 years old wants me
to climb Mt. Everest with him. Do you know how old I should
be to try this, and do you know who the youngest person to
summit was? My dad wants to know if there are any MRI
studies of the brain after repetitive exposures to high
altitudes. He hopes the participants will have post-climb
MRI's that will be reported. My 7 year old brother wants to
know if you have "Game-Boys" along! My mothers says be
careful.
Nicole Fenton
Response from Base Camp:
We believe the youngest person to have summited Everest was
a 17-year-old French student who summited in October of 1990
with his father, Jean Noel Roche. They were also the first
father-son team to reach the top.We don't think there are
any MRI brain studies that have been done on climbers who
have had repetitive exposures to altitude. Our climbers have
had pre-climb MRI scans and will also have scans done after
the climb. Sorry to say we don't have any "Game Boys"
along.
Question:
To Thomas Hornbein: I bought your book,
Everest, The West Ridge many years ago. It continues
to be one of my favorites. The photographs are spectacular.
I have traveled up Everest in my mind through these photos.
My Question. How long do you stay on the summit, and what
will you leave there and why? Best of luck to all of you.
Thank you for bringing this experience to the Web.
Rob Carley
Response from Base Camp:
Climbers generally stay on the summit for a limited amount
of time only (on average about half an hour), as the climb
down to Camp IV can take 4-6 hours and climbers don't want
to get caught out after dark. We will leave nothing on the
summit, as we want to leave it as pristine as we found
it.
Question:
We thank you for returning our e-mail question from my sixth
grade geography class at Holley-Navarre Middle School. We
would like to ask you some more questions!!! What are you
eating on the trip and how are you keeping it from freezing?
When do you expect to return to base camp? Has anyone been
injured? How do you stay warm? How long will you stay at the
summit? Best of luck to all of you. Looking forward to
hearing from you again!!!
Barbara Legee
Santarosa, FL
Response from Base Camp:
The food we are eating up here is a combination of local
food brought up from the lowlands by porter or yak
(potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, greens, garlic,
onions, rice and lentils). We augment those local foods with
food that we brought from the United States: pasta, pasta
sauces, snack foods, condiments like mustard and ketchup,
cheeses, crackers, etc. Tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, etc
inevitably arrive frozen and we make do with sorry looking
vegetables. The constant freeze/thaw/freeze process here
generally hasn't hurt any of our food. David and Pete will
return to Base Camp from Camp III on the 26th. Ed and Carter
have already been to Camp III and will go up for
acclimatization one more time. They leave on the 26th. To
date, no one on our team has been injured, just a few minor
illnesses. Okay, I admit, I (Liesl) did slip on some ice
this morning while carrying the laptop from my tent to the
dining tent. Both knees hit hard on a glacial rock, BUT I
SAVED THE LAPTOP! How do we stay warm? Warm clothes and
sleeping bags. That's the secret. When the sun disappears
behind a cloud the temperature plummets and we layer up with
warm clothing like down coats and capilene long
underwear.
Question:
Our 7th and 8th grade reading class at Jim Hill Middle
School will be following your climb up Mt. Everest. Do you
know anybody from last year who died during the climb and is
this making the climb any harder emotionally? Katie and my
7th and 8th grade class.
Katie Thiel
Jim hill Middle School
Response from Base Camp:
Yes, we did know some of the climbers from last year who
died on the mountain, in particular, Rob Hall and Scott
Fischer. Their deaths will always weigh heavily on our minds
as we climb everest.
Question:
Greetings from Colorado! How much sleep do you manage to get
each night, and how does it change with altitude?Does the
quality of your sleep change? For example, do you wake up
often, and are your dreams different (pleasant vs
nightmarish, intense vs unmemorable)? I assume you feel a
great spiritual connection with the mountain when you are on
it. Do you ever feel fear on the mountain? How do you
reconcile the possibility of death with your will to live?
Best of luck, we are all pulling for you!
Gregg Somermeyer
Response from Base Camp:
We usually go to bed after dinner (by 8pm) and usually
wake-up between 7-8am. It's not a sound sleep. People
generally wake up 3-5 times a night because you have to go
to the bathroom. The higher you go, the more disrupted your
sleep pattern. At camp IV, you usually take 15-30 minute
catnaps. A climber must prepare to leave by 11pm at camp IV.
At camp III your sleep is often disrupted by wind noise and
altitude problems and the need to go outside the tent to
answer the call of nature. On the mountain, it's cold and
dark and there's not much to do. You're in your sleeping bag
for a long time (11-12 hours). By and large, dreams are not
more intense but are more memorable. They are typically
shorter, more abstract, and usually are interrupted. Yes. We
feel a spiritual connection with the mountain. We feel
honored and reverent to be able to climb on this mountain.
Fear is not an emotion that enters into our psyche very
often. However, fear makes you cautious and it's a natural
feeling. It's a wonderful struggle and fear is an important
element in high altitude mountaineering. The views are
stupendous. It's a wonderful place to be. I.E., It's not all
fear, suffering and danger.
Previous set of responses
Next set of responses
Lost on Everest
|
High Exposure
|
Climb |
History & Culture
|
Earth, Wind, & Ice
E-mail |
Previous Expeditions
|
Resources
|
Site Map
|
Everest Home
Editor's Picks
|
Previous Sites
|
Join Us/E-mail
|
TV/Web Schedule
About NOVA |
Teachers |
Site Map |
Shop
| Jobs |
Search |
To print
PBS Online |
NOVA Online |
WGBH
©
| Updated November 2000
|
|
|