|

|

|
Responses and Comments #3
April 25, 1997
Question:
What do you do when nature calls during the climb? Good Luck
From all our science class students!
Elizabeth Vera
National City, CA
Response from David Breashears:
Pete and I are both using 'pee bottles' in our tent. You
have to be careful not to mix up your pee bottle with your
drinking bottle. During the climb, you have to undo the leg
loops on your harness and then work your way through the
many layers that you may have on.
Question:
1. The task of route setting through the ice fall and on up
is dangerous, extremely critical and consumes precious
energy. Who (generally) is selected for this and how are
they selected?
2. There have been many articles on the large increase of
inexperienced climbers buying their way onto Everest and
creating very dangerous conditions. One article said that
after the deaths a few years ago, the quantity of people
allowed was reduced from 300 that year to 240 the following
year (last year I think). Your newsflash has said you have
400 this year. What is the experience levels in general? How
does this relate to safety on the mountain this year? And
how is the team vs team hierarchy (climbing order, decision
making, etc.) managed?
Thanks and good luck!
Eric Stiverson
San Diego, CA
Response from David Breashears:
In this day and age of 10 expeditions on Everest and 3-4
expeditions on Lhotse that share the same route, there's a
designated team that fixes the route. This year we have 50
8-foot sections of ladders for crossing crevasses. We all
contribute toward the cost of fixing and maintaining the
Icefall.
The team vs team climbing hierarchy is mostly survival of
the fittest and who is ready to go at certain times. We have
already addressed the issue of inexperienced climbers in a
previous email response. The overcrowding issue is
definitely a problem. I would say that 10% of the climbers
on the mountain are of expert ability, not including the
Sherpas, 30% have some previous Himalayan experience, and
60% are relatively inexperienced and unlikely to be able to
take care of themselves in a severe storm or an
emergency.
Response from Pete Athans:
At least 50% of the people climbing this mountain are not on
commercial expeditions, meaning they're outfitted, and are
supposed to be looking after themselves.
Question:
My experience climbing at altitude is limited to 14,400 feet
on Mt. Ranier. The climb up Everest, even under ideal
climbing conditions, must be the ultimate physical and
mental challange for most who attempt it. My question for
you is how much more demanding would it be to "quick climb"
Everest as Reinhold Messner did while becoming the first
person to reach the summit of all the worlds 8000 meter
peaks?.
Tom Folts
Broadalbin, NY
Response from David Breashears:
We assume you are referring to Messner's solo climb on the
north side in 1980, not his climb with Peter Habeler without
supplemental oxygen in 1978 which was a normal
expedition-style climb ... It's not easy to do what Messner
did. There's a half a dozen people in the world who can do
what he did. For us mere mortals out here, expedition
climbing is the way to go. Doing what Messner did is very
risky, he was alone, he had no fixed ropes. His was an
ultimate adventure for an ultimate mountaineer.
Comment:
Hello, I am Tristan and I am 6 years old, my sister is 5
years old. We hope you are having a good climb and that you
are not too cold. Take care, and watch out for Yetis.
Tris and Laura
Cambridge, Ontario
Response:
Thanks for your e-mail. David and Pete say hello from Camp
II.
Question:
Hello, to you on top of the world. The scenery has to be
truly breathtaking (pardon the pun) around you and I cannot
even begin to imagine what the view is like once you make it
to the top. I am an avid hiker/backpacker and of course high
energy food is extremely important which I would think would
be even more critical for you. What types of foods are you
consuming particularly when you reach altitudes over 20,000
feet and do you try to do a lot of cooked foods?
Jim Shireman
Greenwood, Indiana
Response:
High energy food: We have Snickers bars, M&Ms, cheese,
beef jerky, tuna fish, ramen noodles, soups, chocolate bars,
corn nuts, cookies, dried milk, cold cereal, oatmeal,
salami, biscuits.
Cooked food: We have our favorite 'gag in a bag' meals like
lasagna, turkey dinners, hawaiian chicken, beef stroganoff,
mac and cheese, beans and franks, scalloped potatoes, green
beans, etc.
Question:
With tourists being ferried in by heliocopter to snap a few
pictures then leave, is there a danger that Mount Everest
will become what the Grand Canyon has here in Arizona,
cluttered with fixed wing planes and heliocopters scattering
noise pollution and sometimes people in crashes?
Wels Musgrave
Kingman, AZ
Response:
For the most part, we didn't have any fixed wing flights
over Everest last year, so we don't think this is going to
be a problem. Since the Japanese Expedition has left this
year, there has been no unnecessary air traffic above and
around Base Camp. We hope it will never happen again.
Question:
Is the footing all ice all the way to the top of the
mountain? Or does part of the mountain becomes water from
the daytime sun? Good luck and keep a close eye on each
other.
George Wild
Montvale, NJ
Response:
Ice and snow top to bottom, except 100 feet in the Yellow
Band. No water.
Question:
Hi to every brave soul attempting Everest! My question to
you ... because of the many people climbing Everest the
garbage must be enormous. Is this breath-taking mountain
taking on the appearance of a "junk yard"? One day I hope to
hear of an expedition to Everest where the goal isn't only
to summit but to clean-up the rubbish left behind. Best of
luck for a safe return!
Tracy O'Hara
Binghamton, NY
Response:
There have been multitudes of clean up expeditions but those
have been centered on Base Camp. Yes, on parts of the
mountain the garbage is increasing . The higher you go, the
greater the difficulty in removing waste. It should be noted
that very little if anything is being done on the north
side. However, as mentioned in a previous e-mail, people are
trying to make an effort.
Question:
Hi guys. Hope that everything is going well on the mountain.
My question: what is the difference in oxygen levels at the
top of the mountain from what it is at base camp? Also, how
is the team coping with the altitude sickness they must be
experiencing?
Robert & Alicia Tindall
Lexington, KY
Response:
At the summit, there is 1/3 of the oxygen available at sea
level. At Base camp it is about half. To date, none of us
have experienced altitude sickness.
Question:
Has the increased numbers on the mountain led to
deterioration of safety for all? I was amazedby stories of
traffic jams along the fixed lines.Having climbed at
altitude, I realize there is a fine line between teamwork
and individual ability which may not always be easy to
define.Would increased profits for a guide mean increased
liability for all others in that setting? Everest is clearly
not a place for tourists with the budget but lacking the
skills or experience. But who is checking resumes at the
door?
Wishing you all the best.
Scott Kriscenski
Boston, MA
Response from Pete Athans and David Breashears:
It certainly has increased the responsibility for other
teams with rescues or assisting injured people. It's not the
same as it was when there was 1 team per route on the
mountain. Increased numbers doesn't mean the route is
unsafe. It's just that with more people comes more
inexperience, and therein lies the problem. Nobody's
checking resumes at the door, obviously. To the Nepalese
Ministry of Tourism one climber is as good as another. They
shouldn't be the ones to make that decision. As far as your
comment about increased profits for guides ... as usual it
depends on the guide and the reward. Life is a balance
between risk and reward. Guides up here tend to be very
conservative especially in light of what happened to Rob
Hall and Scott Fischer.
Previous set of responses
Next set of responses
Lost on Everest
|
High Exposure
|
Climb |
History & Culture
|
Earth, Wind, & Ice
E-mail |
Previous Expeditions
|
Resources
|
Site Map
|
Everest Home
Editor's Picks
|
Previous Sites
|
Join Us/E-mail
|
TV/Web Schedule
About NOVA |
Teachers |
Site Map |
Shop
| Jobs |
Search |
To print
PBS Online |
NOVA Online |
WGBH
©
| Updated November 2000
|
|
|