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Responses and Comments #7
May 9, 1997
Question:
Reading your descriptions of what is involved in washing clothes, hair, etc.,
and the freezing results, I have probably a very simple, practical question.
How does anything ever dry out?
Shirley Johnson
Topeka, Kansas
Response from Base Camp:
On a good day we will have enough sunshine to dry our clothes while they hang
from makeshift laundry lines strung between tents. However, we frequently get
snow showers in the afternoon and have to bring our wet clothes in for the
night—sometimes it will take a few days until they are dry.
Question:
Hi everyone. I hope all is well on the roof of the world. I'm specifically
interested in how you feel and what you do when you reach the summit, in
detail! Do you just take in the view for a while and then head down? Do you go
all quiet and spiritual? Or are you overcome with emotion? Do you laugh? Do you
cry? Do you hold your arms in the air like an athlete who has just won a race?
Do you scream at the top of your voice? Do you kiss the snow? Do you think of
your loved ones? Do you perhaps feel more humble and insignificant than
triumphant? Is it hard to leave after only half an hour? I'd appreciate any
feedback you can give me on this. Good luck guys and thanks for this
opportunity to interact.
Colin Sevitt
Sydney, Australi
Response from Base Camp:
Great questions—stayed tuned for our feature "Into the Death Zone" which will
give an in-depth look at the summit day.
Question:
After the tragedy of last year's expeditions on the part of Rob Hall and Scott
Fischer, do you plan to summit Everest in a different fashion than previous
years? Will it just be a matter of keeping an eye on the weather? Also, David
is there any plans in the future to summit Everest vis-a-vis the West Ridge
Route such as the Hornbein Expedition did several years ago?
Jason Jordan
St. Louis, MI
Response:
Our climbers will be climbing the south col route which is the same one as Rob
Hall and Scott Fischer climbed last year. At this time, David has no plans to
attempt the West Ridge route.
Question:
Much of this climb is focusing on the affects on the mind and body at high
altitude. How does your body feel when you return home (assuming "home" is
somewhere around sea level) after a long period of time at very high altitude?
Do you feel super human with all those extra red blood cells? Do you find that
your resting heart rates are even lower than they were before you began your
climb?
And emotionally, do you find that you suffer something akin to separation
anxiety or post-partum depression?
Thank you and best wishes for a safe and successful expedition.
Larry Buttrey
Long Beach, CA
Response from David Carter:
When I return from an expedition, I have lost so much weight while living at
high altitude that I sleep for a couple of weeks. I usually don't feel like
doing any exercise for at least a month—much of that is due to mental
exhaustion.
Question:
We are a 7th grade class from the Seattle area reading Ullman's "Banner in the
Sky." We have been following your climb this year, and have read about the 1996
tragedy.
1. How does Everest compare to the Alps? Have any of you scaled the Matterhorn?
How are they different?
2. Obviously, peak physical conditioning is required. What do you do during the
off-season to prepare for the rigors of working out in such thin air?
3. What does yak tea taste like? Hummm hummm good, we bet!
Best of luck to you all- we look forward to seeing the IMAX film!
John Mejlaender
Carnation, WA
Response from Base Camp:
On average the Himalayan mountains are much taller than the Alps. Because of
the high altitude in the Himalayan mountains the conditions can be extreme and
more challenging for climbing. There are also huge areas that are
uninhabitable because of the altitude.
Please look at former responses to how our climbers train for their climbing
expeditions.
Some yak cheese can be very stinky while other types are mild and can be quite
good.
Question:
David, Glad to hear you are back on the mountain.
Tomorrow night is the NY section of AAC film festival ... understand we have a
"tease" of your IMAX that is going to be shown. Looking forward to it. Curious
what the various expeditions are doing for weather forecasts this year? Good
luck on the climb.
Sincerely,
Joe Witte
New York, New York
Response from Base Camp:
We do not know what the other expeditions are doing for their weather
forecasts. We receive a daily forecast from a UK organization that
specializes in upper air forecasts for the Himalayan region.
Comment:
Hi David,
This is so cool to be talking to you while you are climbing Mt. Everest. I am
going to call your mom and dad tonight to tell them I e-mailed you . It looks
like you are up to Camp III. I can't imagine going through the physical
strain you all must be going through. Hang in there David and I hope you reach
the summit soon. I know what a quest this has been for you and am very glad to
see your dream about to come true. God speed to you and your companions!
Your Friend,
Jim Taylor
Indianapolis, IN
Response from David Carter
I appreciate your support and well wishes. I'm feeling strong and looking
forward to heading up the mountain.
Question:
How much mixed climbing is involved climbing Everest? Does it depend on the
route? Also, what is the temperature difference between Base Camp and the
summit? Good luck to each of you and Godspeed.
James Wetzel
Response from Pete Athans:
The only mixed climbing of the South Col route is approximately 100 metres on
the yellow band and 15 metres on the Hillary Step. Presently the temperature
at base camp is approximately 40F. during the day and 20F. at night. On the
summit the temperature is approximately an extreme of -40F, but more likely -10
F. to 0F. all depending on winds .
Question:
Dave Carter:
Although the combination of deep snow and high winds temporarily prevented the
Indonesians from making an attempt on the summit, does the aftermath of such a
storm drastically raise the potential for an avalanche? and if so... how long
does this period of additional risk last? What additional precautions can be
taken to avoid catastrophe? Hope this topic isn't taboo!?!? Anyway, it's been
great to follow your trek. Good Luck Dude!
Chris Striebeck
Indianapolis, IN
Response from David Carter:
As of now, there is no real avalanche danger, but in the icefall there is
always the potential for a serac fall. Keep following me on the web and i'll
buy you a beer when I get back to Indy.
Question:
I have been in contact with Dr. Peter Hackett who referred me to this page in
regards to my senior project. I am studying the effects of altitude on myself
and two partners during a three week climb of Denali's West Buttress. I will
be monitoring for cognitive, sensory, and motor deficits.
During my extensive literature review finding specific examples of the types of
tests administered by other investigators has been quite difficult. So far one
of the most helpful resources has been this page and the tests posted on it and
created by Gail Rosenbaum. I was hoping that one of the investigators might be
able to offer assistance in finding more tests like the ones posted here.
Specifically the Stroop test, Verbal Puzzles, and Remembering Sentences. My
goal is to find enough of these tests to collect data twice daily on three
people for three weeks. I am also interested in where I might find an oximeter
to measure pulse rate and oxygen saturation, as well as how to measure lung
size and capacity. Is lung capacity the same as forced vital capacity? And
would a spirometer be the instrument to measure it? What is peak expiratory
flow? Are you measuring finger-tapping speed? If so how? Is the Automated
Performance Test System (APTS) being administered and do you know where the
software can be found? How is HVR measured?
I appreciate any help you may be able to offer. Anything will surely be of
help, especially considering I leave May 30th for the climb.
Thanks, and Climb On!!
Greg Barrett
Anchorage, Alaska
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
A good source for lightweight pulse oximeters is Chinook Medical Gear Inc.
(970-328-2100) in Eagle, Colorado.
For the neurological tests the following papers will be of assistance:
"The Cost To The Central Nervous System Of Climbing To Extremely High Altitude,"
Tf. Hornbein,
"Do Climbs To Extreme Altitudes Persistent Memory Impairment After High
Altitude Climbing," G. Cavaletti,
"Brain Damage After High-Altitude Climbs Without Oxygen," G. Cavaletti,
"Long-Lasting Neuropsychological Changes After A Single High Altitude Climb," G. Cavaletti,
"Neuropsychological Functioning After Prolonged High Altitude Exposure In
Mountaineering," Cf. Clark.
Question:
I have been interested in the subject of Acute High Altitude Sickness since my
brother, Edward (also a former Cheley Camper as is Dr. Tom Hornbein), died of it
during a 1976 ascent of Mt. McKinley. The weather was bad and the party could
not get him to a lower elevation. The malady seems to strike without a great
deal of predictability. The climber can have previously gone to an elevation
several times before without incidence, and then for some reason on a
subsequent ascent to that elevation be stricken. Have you been able to
identify any precursors that might signal its onset or any predisposing
factors? Is there a threshold elevation where it presents itself and an
elevation above which it seems to be of little problem? What precautions have
the team taken to avoid it and why was it believed that this course of action
would prevent the onset? If that has not been totally successful in avoiding
High Altitude Sickness, what would you have done differently? Who has had it,
at what elevations?
Jim Guleke
Austin, TX
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Interestingly there have been numerous recent observations that climbers with
preexisting upper respiratory infections (often viral) are predisposed to HAPE
(High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). This may explain some cases of seemingly
random HAPE in individuals whose prior climbing history suggested no
predisposition.
Climbers often report the unexpected onset of HAPE. With closer scrutiny of
the ascent profile there are often subtle changes from one climb to the next.
An extra staging or rest day at the same altitude can influence the potential
for development of HAPE. Some have conjectured that other variables including
diet (ie, salt intake) may cause changes in susceptibility but this has been
poorly studied. Additionally, the use of pharmaceutical agents, such as
nifedipine, may be used to prevent HAPE in known susceptibles.
There is no elevation above which HAPE is no longer a potential danger.
The best indication that our team can avoid complications with HAPE is a clear
history of no prior problems. With the human body, there are never guarantees
but a pristine prior history is extremely reassuring.
Question:
Greetings from Washington- the monsoon has decided to visit us before it goes
on to Asia- lots and lots of rain. I hope your weather conditions are better.
My question is how does the altitude affect your senses like smell, taste,
hearing and seeing? Are they dulled or enhanced the higher you go? How about
your sense of balance- do you experience vertigo? Thank you and best of luck
for a safe summit day.
Colleen Merrill
Langley, WA
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Smell and taste are definitely diminished at base camp (17,600') and at the
higher camps. The return of these senses is best appreciated upon descent to
lower elevations.
With symptoms of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) balance can be affected,
however, in a well acclimatized climber balance should be normal. At extreme
altitudes, climbers suffering from chronic hypoxemia (low blood oxygen) have
described difficulty with balance. Other factors that affect climbers' balance
include dehydration, hypoglycemia and exhaustion.
Question:
A word of encouragement from Indianapolis! I don't know if you will get this
message before you attempt the summit , but I hope like hell that you make it.
There are a lot of North Central and I.U. people here cheering you on. It has
been very interesting being able to follow your team on the internet. The last
news we have is you are at base camp III, and preparing to move on. Go for it
Dave.
Paul Schuler
Indianapolis, IN
Response from David Carter:
Thanks for your support, everything is going great. We're hoping to leave for
the summit in the next few days.
Question:
I was wondering if it is very noisy all the time on Everest because of the
wind. I think this would be a disturbing factor when you have to be there for
months. So, how is the wind on Everest?
Noah Hedges
Arlington, TX
Response from Pete Athans:
In past years the wind has been very loud from Base Camp and above. This year,
we have been very fortunate to have relative few high wind days. The other
loud noises that we hear are avalanches and glacier movement.
Question:
To Edgar: You'll have to write back soon to let everyone know at Film/Video
how you and your crew are doing. I have been waiting to hear from you. But
perhaps you didn't receive my last e-mail. Jay, Darryl, Roy, Pizio, and myself
wish you the best of luck as you guys take on the elements. I will pass on any
info you send, so don't hesitate to write when you find the time. Talk to you
soon.
Shayne Sivley
Denver, CO
Response from Edgar Boyles:
Greetings from both Pete Athans and myself here at "Hypoxia Beach" at 17,600".
Things are going well and the gear is holding up even though we are in a pretty
extreme and harsh environment. Everybody is ready for the summit, so stayed
tuned to the web site as it's just about showtime! All the best to the crew
there, look forward to seeing you on my return.
Best regards, Edgar.
Question:
Dear Climbers,
Hi! I am Staci, I am 12, almost 13! The school I go to is following you, we
hooked up the T.V. to the computer and are writing questions! Well here's my
question: What do you people do on your spare time?
Staci Flajole
Carnation, WA
Response from Base Camp:
During our spare time at Base Camp we rest, read, hang out with our friends and
recuperate our energy for our climb.
Question:
I was wondering if you had any difficulties with route-finding in the Khumbu
Icefall. Is the water safe to drink out of the streams or do you treat it? Is
Lhotse within reach from Base Camp to climb (within a day or two of trekking).
A question for Ed Viesturs: Has he made any outstanding times between camps
like he did with Scott Fischer on K2 in 1992? (7500 feet in one day). Have
stable weather!
Taylor Woodward
Richaland, WA
Response from Base Camp:
The Icefall is considered by some the most dangerous part of the route due to
falling ice. Throughout a given season the route may be reset in certain
sections because of the movement in the glacier.
Our main source for water at Base Camp is a frozen pond at the base of the Lho
La (which is a huge glacial pass to Tibet). For our expedition alone, our
kitchen staff carries 30-35 liter-loads of water each day. This water is
boiled for purification.
Question:
Hi from the fifth grade! It is exciting to hear from people on Mount Everest.
We want to ask if the flag from Hillary and Tenzing is still at the summit?
and when you climb do you ever find the bodies of other climbers? That would
be very hard.
Good luck, Eric Z., Christina C., Deedee C., Shea S. from
Cleveland Urban Community School
Cleveland, Ohio
Response from Base Camp:
The flag from Hillary and Tenzing's summit is no longer there. Sadly, there
are bodies along the route.
Question:
Dear Climbers,
Have any of your team members gotten hurt yet? Do you think any of you will get
hurt? How would you take care of the injured people?
Sincerely,
The 7th grade
Garden Valley, Idaho
Response from Base Camp:
All of climbers are feeling strong and are in good health. In the event of any
injuries we have a doctor, Howard Donner, at base camp. When the climbers are
on the mountain they always have a medical kit with them.
Question:
Hello! I'm not a climber myself but I've been reading a lot of books and
checking the web site and have become intensely interested in your Everest
expedition. My question is pretty simple. How do you know the way? I realize
that you keep going up but I imagine that the landscape must change with the
ice and wind and snow. Is this true? What sort of navigational tools do you
have? Good luck, my thoughts are with you! I really admire your courage and
determination.
Mellisa Rinehart
Akron, OH
Response from Base Camp:
The traditional Southeast route on Everest is well-travelled and easy to find:
through the Icefall ropes and ladders and the well-trodden route will show you
the way; the same would go for the Western Cwm. Its well-trodden route is hard
to avoid as the Lhotse Face is mostly fixed with ropes. Climbers work their
way up without having to use compasses. Beyond Camp IV we believe it is best
for climbers to always have a compass with them in case they get caught in
white-out conditions or the dark.
As Mal Duff's expedition Sherpas have for the past few years set the route
through the Icefall, there has been little chance for first-timers to get lost
in the labyrinth. The first climbers to go through the Western Cwm in a given
season have to set the ladders across the many crevasses that traverse the high
mountain valley.
Question:
I see by today's Newsflash that there will be strong winds at the summit and
that this will make the trek even more difficult. I moved from Phoenix, AZ to
Iowa City to attend graduate school and found the Iowa winter to be a terrible
shock. The winds were strong and the temperature (incl. windchill) that first
winter hung around minus 80 for a long time. Last winter we had a week where
temperatures, with no winds were at about -20 during the day. My question is
this: Will the winds at the summit be strong enough to actually "move" or
"push" your bodies, and what impact will the winds have on temperature?
Best wishes-
Michelle Rhoades
Dept. of History, University of Iowa
Response from Base Camp:
Our most recent five-day forecast show the winds ranging from 5-55 kph, the
corresponding temperatures range from -19 f. To -38 f. Climbers generally
choose not to climb in winds that will buffet their bodies. If they are caught
up high in strong winds, they will usually turn around for safety reasons.
Question:
Hello from the Pacific Northwest! My 7th grade class is following your progress
with great interest. They are curious how many e-mails you are receiving?
Nationally? Internationally? This has been so exciting for them- they are going
home and doing all kinds of research. Also- what does yak tea taste like? hang
in there! Russell Coney says hello to Todd Burleson!
Carnation, WA
Response from Dr. Donner:
We are overwhelmed with e-mails and try our best to answer them on a daily
basis. Most of our mail comes from the United States, but we do receive mail
from all over the world; for example, today we received mail from Italy.
Yak tea is not a favorite of ours here at base camp, we prefer hot lemon or
milk tea.
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