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Responses and Comments #6
May 7, 1997
Question:
I have been tracking your progress and things seen to be
going according to plan. However, I am curious about the
large numbers of climbers and the limited means of access to
the mountain. I assume there are other routes to the summit
of Everest. Do all expeditions take the same route and are
there other potential routes for expeditions?
Walter Lagarenne
Summerville, SC
Response from Pete Athans:
60% of all climbers take the South Col route. Approximately
30% attempt the climb via the North Col. There are about 12
routes on Everest but these two see the most traffic.
Question:
I am over 40 years old. For the older guys how long did it
take you to get in shape for your climb. Best of luck.
Brad Reeder
Mesa, AZ
Response from Pete Athans:
We maintain a high level of fitness, aerobic and anaerobic
activity. We did not specifically train for this expedition
but 12 previous Everest expeditions have put us in good
shape for the climb up Everest.
Question:
I have been quite interested in last year's tragedy, given
Beck Wethers is a local. He's been through much and that
just highlights the unfortunate ones like Rob, Scott and the
others. If it is too difficult to help injured climbers
down, what do you do with those who have died? As someone
said last year, you don't want them to be just another slide
in some climber's slide show. On the other hand, you have
certainly described the terrible ordeal one has to go
through just to get himself up and down. Please tell us what
has been done and how you feel about the results ... i.e.,
whether or not they have been removed, buried in rocks,
etc.
Mark Enoch
Dallas, TX
Response from Ed Viesturs and Pete Athans:
Given the logistical problems of evacuating bodies, it is
very problematic to remove dead climbers from high on the
mountain. However, we do try to remove them and put them in
a respectful place, if possible.
Comment:
I didn't know that a computer would withstand that much cold
and still work, or it is there heat to warm them up? (I know
this sounds odd, normally we'd want them cool). As for the
climb, you guys have more guts than I have desire of having
to have. Scared of heights! But I do think it would be cool!
That picture of using a ladder to cross a gorge, not me, no
way no how!!! (saw it on PBS Online). Best of luck, and may
God be with you all.
David Gruesbeck
Alma, MI
Response:
Once the sun hits our communication tent, the computers
usually are warm enough to function properly. When it is
really cold, we keep the computers warm in our sleeping bags
at night. In extreme cases we have had to put the computer
batteries in a Ziploc bag and boil them.
Question:
Over the years the mountain has claimed all too many lives.
Are there many who have never been found and recovered?
Also, is there anyway to predict the weather on the mountain
with any degree of certainty so you will not get caught in
life threatening circumstances? Good luck everyone. You all
have my utmost respect for your courage and fortitude in the
face of that very spectacular and awesome mountain.
John Rogers
Charleston, WV
Response from David Carter:
Yes, especially in the Icefall. We get weather updates from
England on a daily basis that give us a five day projection.
We always take a conservative approach regarding scheduling
for the summit attempt.
Question:
My Physical Science and Astronomy students would like to
know if any of you were particularly interested in science
when you were in 8th grade. Some of them don't think science
has any practical applications to every day life. How has it
helped you out in the area of physics? Good luck and thank
you.
Marg Freeman
Boise, Idaho
Response from Ed Viesturs:
I'm a veterinarian and am intrigued by physiology. Climbing
and exercise physiology go hand in hand.
Question:
What is the difference between climbing the north side and
the south side of Everest. Also I watched Turning Point last
night, it was about the climbers who were trapped on Everest
last year but it did not say if the bodies of the climbers
who died were recovered or will they be. Good luck on your
quest and stay safe. (AND WARM)
O.G. Bizeau
Gladstone, MI
Response from Ed Viesturs and Pete Athans:
The North Side of Everest is windier and more technical the
higher up you go. There are no plans to evacuate any of the
bodies from last year as it is extremely difficult to move
them due to the high altitude and technical terrain. We will
try to cover them or move them somewhere out of the way in a
respectful fashion.
Question:
Thank you for sharing your experiences on the net. In
reading previous responses, I noted that you may only stay
at the summit for 30 minutes or so depending on time and,
I'm sure, weather. Is it difficult to spend so much time
preparing and climbing only to be there for such a short
time? Is it hard to turn around and go back down given that
you have achieved what so few people will ever achieve? Are
you tempted to celebrate in some fashion just as you reach
the summit or is the celebration mental? Best wishes to you
and I look forward to following you the rest of the way.
I'll bet the view sure beats Kansas.
Deb Snellen
Leawood, Kansas
Response from Ed Viesturs
No. Getting to the summit is only part of the process. As a
matter of fact, getting to the top is optional. Getting down
is mandatory. You don't totally celebrate until every last
person is off the mountain.
Question:
Our class was wondering if it was difficult being away from
your families for such a long period of time? Are you able
to keep in touch with them?
Gayle McLaughlin
Bethlehem, PA
Response from Ed Viesturs and Pete Athans:
Yes, it is hard. We feel guilty that we are away so long. We
have been in touch with our families via telephone and
e-mail but it is a poor substitute.
Question:
I am a first year medical student at the Univ. of
Massachusetts Medical Center. I would like to know if any of
the four climbers have ever had any episodes of HAPE or HACE
on any previous climbs? Also are you planning on publishing
any of your results? I plan on doing research in high
altitude physiology and I will be following this research
expedition with much interest. Good luck.
Michael Todd
Millbury, MA
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
All of the climbers have had symptoms of acute mountain
sickness at one time or another including: lethargy, lack of
appetite, headaches, and sleeplessness. None of the climbers
have ever developed severe forms of mountain sickness such
as full blown HAPE or HACE.
The results of this study will eventually be published. Dr.
Tom Hornbein at the University of Washington will be able to
offer you more specific information on upcoming publication
of this data.
Question:
I am interested in whether you are testing the Sherpas
during your climb - 1. to see how their test results would
compare to your results and 2. to help understand how their
bodies handle the high altitude stresses. Are they adversely
affected by going down to sea level like we are by going up
so high? Best of luck!
Betsey LeBreche
Del Mar, CA
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Yes, our sirdar Jangbu Sherpa will be tested along with the
other climbers. Interestingly, there has never been any
indication of a "low altitude" sickness in high altitude
natives descending to lower altitudes. I have often heard
local Sherpas speak of "low altitude" illness in yaks that
typically inhabit regions of the Khumbu above 14,000 feet.
However, many yaks live in low altitude zoos around the
world. The illness that the yaks developed when descending
to low altitude is probably due to exposure to numerous
infectious diseases transmitted by lowland cattle to which
the yaks have not developed immunity.
Question:
I am interested in the age of the climbers in your group and
how this might effect how they approach the climb. Be
careful and have a safe climb.
Sincerely,
David Whicker
Danville, IN
Response from all climbers:
David Breashears (age 41)
Pete Athans (age 40)
Ed Viesturs (age 37)
David Carter (age 34)
Jangbu Sherpa (age 26)
Question:
Many mountaineers take prescription drugs to help negate the
affects of altitude. This practice seems most common in
areas where climbers ascend from low elevations quickly and
have little time to acclimate. Is the use of any type of
medication the standard on Everest? We are with you in
spirit.
Kerry, Jodi, Mike, & Kip Hanson
Shorewood, WI
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Most climbers on 8000-meter peaks prefer to acclimitize
without the use of prescription drugs, when possible.
However, the climbers generally carry a number of high
altitude prescription drugs for use in emergencies. These
drugs include: Nifedipine for High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
(HAPE), Decadron for High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and
Diamox. Even in an acclimitized climber, Diamox is often
used in very small doses prior to bedtime to decrease or
eliminate periodic breathing. This makes for a much more
restful night's sleep at extreme altitude.
Question:
First of all, great website. It can't be easy for you to put
the time in for this after a hard day on the mountain. It is
greatly appreciated. I have a question for Ed. Are you
climbing w/o supplemental oxygen as you have done so many
times before? Were you picked for these tests because of
your ability to adapt above 8000m? How about Dave? If you
are w/o oxygen, how do your clients on the ACL team feel
about you guiding them under these conditions? Lastly, is
Mr. Boukreev guiding the Indonesians w/o oxygen? The best of
luck and weather to all of you. Oh yeah, give Childum, Ang
Tshering, Ang Dorje and most of all, Guy, a big hug and
Namaste! from me. Thanks and take care.
Robert Stevens
Turlock, CA
Response from Ed Viesturs:
-
Since I am guiding for Adventure Consultants this year, I
am climbing with supplemental oxygen. I have always been
adamant about guiding with oxygen on Everest for safety
and liability reasons. When I am guiding, I am there for
my clients and not for my own personal goals. I find that
with oxygen I tend to be warmer and if any situation would
arise I believe that I would be stronger and more capable
of assisting others in need.
-
Part of the reason I was selected for these tests is that
I tend to do very well at altitude. The scientists wanted
to compare myself with David Breashears and David Carter
to see whether our bodies behave differently.
-
I do not know whether Anatole Boukreev was guiding with or
without oxygen this year.
Question:
Winters here in eastern Kansas can be quite cold, with
strong winds and associated high wind chill factors. I have
tried to bicycle and exercise in subfreezing temperatures
using different clothing layers, but have always been
uncomfortable due to perspiration soaking the inner layers
of clothing, especially when my level of exertion decreases
i.e. when I coast down hills or stop at intersections. Based
on the heart and breathing rates you have reported, you are
working quite hard on the mountain. Would you please
describe the clothing you wear; how it is layered; what
fabrics are used; how it is invented; what skin level
temperature you consider comfortable? Basically, how is your
clothing designed to handle the problems created by varying
wind speeds and air temperatures and the resulting
perspiration you generate while you are climbing and working
around the camp? How would you define "toasty and warm" with
respect to the level of comfort you can achieve in these
conditions?
Thanks,
Robert Potty
Overland Park, KS
Response from Pete Athans:
Basically we utilize several layers of synthetics
(insulative) underneath an outer layer skin of windproof
(shell) fabrics. The inner layers wick moisture to the
outside and, theoretically, through the outer wind layer. On
the summit day, we climb in down one piece suits with
synthetic layers beneath. We don't have significant
"coasting" periods similar to cycling; our output is more
constant. Further, we use supplemental oxygen which greatly
increases warmth and metabolic well-being. We try to avoid
perspiring by regulating layers closest to the skin. "Toasty
and warm" means perfectly regulated temperatures that
is—no net gain or loss—containment of heat.
Question:
Hi David! I am a sports still photographer. I wish I was up
there with you! Photographing on Everest must be the
ultimate but incredibly difficult. I would like to know what
lenses, filters and type of film you are using for your
still photography. I'm sure you must have numerous backup
bodies as well (what a drag if something decides to break
down)! I was also wondering, after many trips to 'the top of
the world' and despite the journey getting there, has it
been the same experience for you emotionally once you are
sitting on the top. It must be an incredible feeling that
can only be experienced. Thanks so much for letting us on
this journey with you!!!!!!
Tracey Frankel
Encinitas, CA
Response from Liesl Clark:
Most of the photography that we have been shooting for our
website has been shot on 35mm Provia 100 still film. I use a
Nikon 8008 and my lens package includes a 28mm, 35-70mm, and
80-200mm lens. All f2.8 is always preferable. We are also
using Apple QuickTake digital cameras, which we love. We
send the cameras up with the climbers. The climbers are able
to send down the RAM cards that cache up to 40 images which
we download and then transmit back to WGBH the same day.
Question:
Hello! My husband and I are tracking the climb on the
Internet for both personal interest and we are friends of
Dave Carter. Thank you for providing this opportunity! We
were wondering what makes the two weeks in May the ideal
time for attempting the summit. We assume it is weather
related. What factors make this time ideal and what are the
possibilities other times of the year? Thanks for providing
a wonderful educational opportunity for so many.
Our thoughts and prayers,
Susan Sveen
Fisher, IN
Response from David Carter:
This time of year is ideal because it is pre- and
post-monsoon season. There is also less chance of avalanche
danger than there is in the fall.
Question:
Are there times when climbers have reached the summit and
have not been able to experience the heavenly view because
of poor visibility? If and when this happens, is it because
of unexpected bad weather? Thank you for this opportunity to
participate. Take care of yourselves and each other.
Laura Woolley
Ann Harbor, MI
Response from Pete Athans:
Yes. Yes. Thanks for writing.
Question:
David, How are you. My name is Matt. I am 13 years of age, I
recently saw a show on my TV talking about the May 10th,
1996 tragedy on Mt. Everest. I would like to know, were you
on the mountain at that time?? And if you were I would like
to know about what happened and what it was like. I think it
was very sad. Also, have you ever been climbing and passed
like a skeleton on the mountain? I also wanted to know, how
many times have you climbed the mountain?? Well if you could
please E-mail me back I would really appreciate it. Well
thanks a lot. Bye
Matt Vogt
Vancouver, WA
Response:
David was on the mountain during last year's tragedy, but he
was not up at Camp IV where most of the tragic events
transpired. It was a very difficult time to be on the
mountain. Now as the climbers head back up the mountain they
all feel a great sense of sadness for their friends that
they have lost.
Question:
I am curious what kind of sleeping bag and tent you have. I
also would like to know what other kind of special gear you
have. How may layers of clothes do you have to wear every
day? Also how do you cook your food, and doesn't your water
freeze? Thank you and good luck
Corono, CA
Response from David Breashears:
I use Mountain Hardwear gear at Base Camp and on the
mountain. Up high, I also have a down suit. We generally
wear Goretex outer layers for Camp III and below and use
polypro close to the skin for its ability to wick away
moisture. At night, I sleep with my water bottles so they
don't freeze.
Question:
What are the highest and lowest temperature, and the highest
wind speed? Good Luck and come home safe.
Lloyd E. Young
Greenfield, IN
Response:
Temperatures on the mountain can range from the extreme of
-40 F. to the more standard temperatures of -10 F. The winds
for the next five days on the summit are projected to reach
a maximum speed of 70 mph.
Question:
First, congratulations to the Indonesian team on their
successful summit bid. I noticed they reached the summit
after 3PM and one member turned around due to the degrading
weather. Were they in any eminent danger? In light of the
fact that most deaths occur on the descent from the summit
and especially given last year's tragedy does there seem to
be an added emphasis on turn around times and safety in
general? Did the Indonesian team have a turn around time? It
would be a shame if nothing was learned from last year's
events. Good luck to everyone!
Sincerely,
Kent B.
Woodland Hills, CA
Response from Ed Viesturs:
Apparently there did not seem to be an added emphasis on
turn around times in the Indonesian team's case. They wound
up having to spend the night at an emergency Camp 5 because
they were descending very late. Some people seem not to have
learned much from what happened last year.
Question:
I have just read Jon Krakauer's book, "Into Thin Air", about
the 1996 tragedies on Mt Everest. Is Krakauer's account
reasonably accurate? What is the general feeling among
experienced climbers about Krakauer's role in the 1996
expedition? How hard has it been to assure that the hired
guides don't focus on their own goals vice those of their
clients? Specifically I have in mind the multiple accounts
of Anatoli Boukreev (sic) on Scott Fischers 1996 expedition
where he comes off as both hero and villain. He seemed to
place his need to achieve the summit (without oxygen) and to
get back down above that of the clients; while later he did
venture out multiple times and save clients, we are left to
wonder if his role wasn't pivotal in precipitating at least
a part of the disaster.
Thanks
Neal Vinson
Burke, VA
Response from Base Camp:
None of us has had a chance yet to read Jon Krakauer's
account of last year's events as we have been at Base Camp
for over a month.
Question:
What a wonderful opportunity this is for ordinary people to
follow your progress on this amazing expedition. Our
question is: exactly what do you wear on your feet while
climbing? Do you have to wear boots, crampons, or snow
shoes? Do you know approximately how deep the snow is when
you're walking on top of it? If you don't have the proper
equipment on, would you sink out of site or do you tie each
other together with ropes?
Wishing you all a safe passage.
The Wante family
Littleton, NH
Response from David Carter:
We wear plastic double boots with insulite liners and
crampons while climbing. The snow is fairly firm right now
on the mountain. You would only sink if you fell into a
crevasse.
Question:
To David Carter:
First of all, my daughter, Michele is in Mrs. Russell's
second grade class at Smoky Row Elementary. They have been
following your expedition and have gotten me hooked. The
Star did an article on your expedition and their class in
today's paper. I have learned so much from reading your
e-mail responses and the newsflashes. I really appreciate
the extra effort that this takes you. It certainly has
brought the possibility of having great adventures right
into our living room, but in a very realistic way. My
question is, I noticed that your list of food included an
awful lot of sugar...wouldn't instant protein type foods be
better fuel than quick burning sugars like snickers bars? I
noticed that the teams doing the Artic crossing last year
had more success when they changed their diet to include
better protein lower fat foods. Have you considered
consulting a nutritionist about how diet changes could
improve your climb? Thanks again for bringing us along on
this climb. Michele's class is hoping that David will be
able to visit when he returns.
Yours,
The Pieples family
Carmel, Indiana
Response from David Carter:
We eat a lot of pasta. For lunch today, we had rice and
lentils (dal bhat). We also eat a lot of carbohydrates and
fresh vegetables. While climbing, sugar products are easily
metabolized for energy. I am also taking multi-vitamins.
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