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Responses and Comments #10<
May 17, 1997
Question:
Hi, We read your newsflashes every day! We were wondering
what the boiling point of water is at Base Camp and at the
higher camps? We looked it up and found that Everest Base
Camp has an atmospheric pressure of about half that at sea
level which significantly decreases boiling point. Can you
put your hand in boiling water at Camp III and IV? We
climbed Mt. Adams in Washington a few years ago and noticed
that even at 8000 ft. our pasta had a real hard time getting
soft. Do you use pressure cookers or do you live with
crunchy pasta?
Good luck!
Charles Balogh
Portland, OR
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
It is possible to grab something from boiling water, but if
you leave you hand in the water you will definitely get
burned. The boiling point at Base Camp is 175 degrees
Fahrenheit (212 degrees at sea level). At Base Camp we use
pressure cookers to cook pasta and rice which cuts the
cooking time in half. The climbers use pressure cookers on
the mountain at Camp II.
Question:
Howard Donner MD,
Greetings from those of us who remain sanely at sea level.
Are there physiology experiments other than the neurological
testing going on up there? What kinds of diagnostic
equipment do you have at Base Camp? If you could have only
one piece (excluding a stethoscope) what would it be? Do any
of these incredibly buffed individuals (including yourself,
of course) ever get anginal type chest pain? Have any/all of
these folks ever had a cardiac echo? Would any of these
folks LIKE a cardiac echo? (I'll spring for the tape). How
on earth did you get this gig? Stay safe, warm and
reasonably well O2
saturated.
Susan J. Alexander, MD
San Francisco, CA
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
We are looking at limited physiologic parameters including
oximetry and respiratory rate all the way to the summit. Our
main focus is on the psychometric tests. At Base Camp we
have access to limited equipment: a pulse oximetry, oto and
opthalmoscope, stethoscope and thermometer. If I had to
choose only one piece it would be the oximeter—it's a
good tool to determine response to oxygen (i.e. guess-timate
degree of shunt). There have been case reports of anginal in
trekkers, however; I have never heard of an episode of
angina in a Himalayan climber. As you know, I always carry
Nitrostat SL, Transdermal Nitro Patches, a Beta-blocker, and
a highly sophisticated drug called aspirin. There have been
a number of studies looking at cardiac function at altitude,
including extensive echo cardiography at Operation Everest
II (OEII) in Natick, MA in 1985. Amongst others, Dr. Ben
Levine, a cardiologist in Austin, TX has been highly
involved with echo cardiography as well.
Question:
This is a message to and a question for Ed Viesturs: Ed,
it's been a few years since I bumped into you on the summit
of Rainier and even longer since I was on your rope, but I
wanted to send you some good wishes as you make yet another
climb of Everest. My question for you is: why do you return
to Everest year after year? You've already proved yourself
there by summiting several times without oxygen and carrying
the IMAX camera to the summit. What's left for you there and
why not complete the other 8000-meter peaks?
Hope to hear from you when you get back and perhaps bump
into you on Rainier this summer.
Best Regards,
Martin Pazzani
Farmington, CT
Response from Ed Viesturs:
Hey Martin, great to hear from you. This will be my last
Everest climb for some time. This year, I had the
opportunity to work on this NOVA physiology film with David
Breashears so I went for it. I will go to Broad Peak in
June—my 10th 8000-er. Next year I will concentrate on
doing two or three new 8000ers. I vow not to be on Everest
for quite some time!
Question:
I read a book detailing how Hillary and Norgay overcame what
is now known as the Hillary Step and it seemed quite a
challenge, especially in the thin air. He described how they
had to wedge themselves between rock and ice and inch their
way up. If it wasn't for all the fixed rope that now covers
this treacherous part of the climb, would "clients" be able
to summit Everest via the South Col Route?
Chris McElmeel
Wolerine Lake
Response from Pete Athans:
This part of the climb is notorious, but only about 25 to 30
feet high. While quite a piece of exposed climbing in the
1950's, it is a reasonable prospect in 1997. The fixed rope
makes moving more efficient.
Question:
David, when and where can we see your 1996 IMAX film?
Marlene Nece
Miami, Florida
Response from David Breashears:
The Everest IMAX film is scheduled to premiere in March of
1998.
Question:
Thank you for sharing your incredible experiences with the
world. Aside from the hazards of weather and altitude what
is the most technically difficult part of the mountain. Is
it the yellow band, Hillary step, or another ? Why angle of
accent, deep snow, avalanche danger, cornices, old rock,
etc.? You are all in our thoughts and prayers for a
successful summit and safe return.
Terry Thompson
San Diego, California
Response from Pete Athans:
Technically, traversing from the South Summit to 100' above
Hillary Step is the most exposed, difficult spot.
Question:
What kind of dreams do you have? Do you find them more
vivid, peaceful, violent, spiritual? Do you ever wake up and
find yourself disoriented as to where you are? At times of
increased fatigue or stress I dream about college class
finals when I forgot to actually take the class, or that I
failed board exams, or that I couldn't complete a surgery.
Are any of you Eagle Boy Scouts.? Do you share a certain
faith? Best wishes.
Douglas K.Fenton, M.D.
La Costa, CA
Response from Dave Carter:
It's very rare that I have a dream at altitude. I do find
myself disorientated especially following an exhausting day.
Sometimes I'll wake up and not know where I am for a split
second and then I'll realize where I am. I am an Eagle
Scout.
Question:
I heard someone say that the new version of the Indy cars
for the Indianapolis 500 must be as loud as the howling
winds on the summit. I think that's probably true, it just
doesn't create a wind chill factor at the track. David we
are all rooting for you back here in Indiana along with all
your partners. Let's hope you get the climb in before the
500 takes place!
Bill Kitch
Indianapolis, IN
Response from Dave Carter:
The winds sound like a 747 taking off. Things are going
well. I should be back in Indiana in about three weeks.
Question:
This is truly incredible, to be able to follow your trek up
Mt. Everest. I enjoy reading your newsflashes and all the
questions and answers. My question concerns short-roping.
Can you tell me exactly what is happening when a person is
being short-roped? Is it like having a sling around you and
being pulled up by someone else? Or are you actually
carrying someone? Thank you and I wish the very best for you
all up there on that mountain.
Vivki Campos
San Antonio, TX
Response from Pete Athans:
Short roping simply means the distance between the two
climbers is less than 40 feet.
Question:
Greetings to HoDo and the team from your followers and
well-wishers in T-ride! We've been following the dispatches
closely, and hope your weather clears soon for the
summit—Howard, will you have the honor and challenge
of going to the top, or is Spin taking your place?
Godspeed, all of you.
Lee Taylor
Telluride, CO
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Spin is on for me this time. Maybe we should consider an
interview on KOTO with Spin when we return. Thanks for
watching our site.
Question:
Hello there on the top of the world. My question is
concerning the newsflash that was posted on May 9, 1997. The
Sherpa that was treated for HAPE by using a make shift
hyperbaric {Gamon Bay}, I was wondering if you could explain
how it might be different with the current chambers found at
hospitals or flight treatment centers? Also, what kind of
depths due you take the patients down to.
Take care and God's speed,
Richard N. Lawson, BS, CCP
Springfield, IL
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
The portable, fabric hyperbaric chambers that we use are
pressurized to relatively low pressures (i.e. 2 PSI),
compared with rigid hyperbaric chambers found at medical
institutions. Ascent to the summit of Everest reduces the
atmospheric pressure by approximately two thirds. Diving to
only 20 feet below the ocean increases the pressure by the
same amount. As you can see the pressures used for
recompressing diving injuries are orders of magnitude
higher.
Question:
Greetings to David Carter: Hi Dave!!! You guys really have
to have patience waiting for your window of opportunity to
climb to the summit. I hope it is not a traffic jam.
Question: Has there ever been a year where the weather
conditions prevented any of the groups to summit? We all are
waiting for you to come home and know you will welcome the
comforts of your home in Arden.
Your family friend,
Nancy Wickstrand
Indianapolis, IN
Response from Dave Carter:
Yes, there have been many years that climbers have not
reached the summit due to weather and other circumstances.
We are concerned about all of the climbers possibly going up
on the same day to the summit. It is our hope to be one of
the first teams out of Camp IV, to be ahead of the crowds.
Question:
Hi, my name is McKenna and I am 11 years old. My dad, my
brother, and I have taken up the sport of cliff climbing and
I just received my first climbing harness for my 11th
birthday. Being a girl, I was wondering if there are many
female climbers on Everest? Have any of them made it to the
summit? Also, have you always liked to climb or did you
start out when you were adults? Good luck, stay safe, climb
on.
McKenna Wagner
Appleton, WI
P.S. How do you make yak tea?
Response from Pete Athans:
Stacy Allison and Peggy Luce were the first American women
to summit Everest. Stacy has written a book about her
adventure, that might be a good reference for you.
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Yak tea is made from essentially rancid Yak butter, salt and
black tea. It is not a favorite of ours here at Base Camp.
Question:
What, if anything, has your team heard or learned about the
Yeti? Is this creature of legend the subject of any research
or is it simply dismissed as a fanciful creation of
Hollywood?
Emmett Lyne
Wellesley
Response from Pete Athans:
Hollywood did not create the legend of Yeti. The stories
have existed for centuries in Sherpa culture. In Sherpa
lore, there was a war between Sherpa and Yetis to drive the
Yetis out of the Khumbu. Sherpa consider it very bad luck to
see a Yeti, or evidence of them. Their existence is widely
disputed. More recently, near Gokyo, there was an alleged
Yeti attack of a Yak.
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