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Responses and Comments #5
May 5, 1997
Question:
Your discussion of the number of expeditions on the mountain
is staggering. Is it correct to assume that all will attempt
the ascent to the summit? From your description of the
helicopter "tours" it would appear that there is a certain
amount of "unthinking activity." Would it be fair to assume
this is also true with regard to some of the other climbing
teams? Do you have any idea what percentage make it to the
top.
God speed and safety to you all from sunny California.
Handel Evans
Camirillo, CA
Response from David Carter:
20% of the climbers attempting to climb Mt. Everest make it
to the top. There is attrition due to illness and lack of
experience, basic lack of determination and patience.
Question:
Do you guys ever feel—I hate to say
disappointed—but maybe surprised that coming into the
year 2000, the top of Everest is still such a daunting task
for humans to undertake? It seems to bode ill for mankind in
space when there are such inhospitable places that strain
our maximum capabilities right here on the home planet. Just
thought you'd be in the mood for some philosophy. Good luck
up there. Don't let the moon hit you on the head. :-)
Guy T. Schafer
Dalton, NH
Response from Ed Viesturs:
I look at it as a challenge not as a daunting task. We don't
have to climb Everest. We choose to do it. I think we should
be happy to have something like Everest. There are people
like us who want everest to get us away from the normal, day
to day life. Some of us need that as normal life isn't
challenging enough.
Question:
It's been less than one year since circumstances took the
lives of several of your friends and fellow climbers. Do you
sense a difference in attitudes among the various
expeditions compared to other years that you've been on
Everest? I would also suspect that there are more
journalists and reporters at Base Camp than in prior years.
Do you have any thoughts about their presence? Thank you and
best wishes.
Larry Buttrey
Long Beach, CA
Response from Ed Viesturs:
We definitely as guides are taking a very conservative
approach as far as letting clients go high on the mountain.
They need to display strength, endurance, and skills lower
down on the mountain before we will allow them to go higher.
Just because they have paid us to come here does not
guarantee they get a chance at the summit. They need to
first prove to us that they are capable by displaying their
climbing abilities. This has always been my philosophy even
before last year's tragedies.
I don't think that there are any more journalists here than
last year but I do think that the whole world is watching
us. The presence of journalists really does not affect me. I
think that I would be guiding in the same way regardless of
their scrutiny.
Question:
Greetings from sunny Arizona! I would like to know from
which spot on the mountain that you are last able to report
back to the outside world via e-mail on the status of the
crew, climb, conditions, etc. and approximately what date
that might be. Also, how do you physically get to the
starting point, i.e., do you hike in, bus in, helicopter,
etc. and what destination is considered the starting point??
Best of luck to you all!!
Mark, Debbi, Cody and Kaley
Scottsdale, Arizona.
Response from Pete Athans:
Our starting point is Lukla (8000'), an airstrip and
village. From Lukla it takes us abut a week to walk up to
Base Camp (17,6000). We can report from the summit via radio
(walkie-talkie) to Base Camp and our crew there sends our
news out via e-mail.
Question:
To the Team: I've summited Mt. Rainier a couple of times and
know the air gets thinner the higher you get above 12,000'
My question is how much more of an effort and how much more
oxygen deprived do you get as you accent above Camp I. Is
food (fuel) carbo loading as important or more important as
breathing correctly? Thanks for your insights.
Mike Rindahl
Seattle, WA
Response from Dr. Howard Donner:
Although proper breathing can enhance air exchange, no one
is able to maintain voluntary changes in ventilation 24
hours a day. Different forms of purse-lipped breathing to
enhance expiratory positive airway pressure (EPAP) have been
tried. EPAP improves air exchange by holding open the
alveoli at the end of expiration increasing air exchange.
Although probably effective these modified breathing
patterns are impossible to maintain, especially during
sleep—a very important time for acclimitization.
There have been numerous studies looking at carbohydrate
intake at altitude. There is some suggestion that eating
foods with a lower respiratory quation (rq - a ratio that
looks at the amount of oxygen needed to metabolize food
substrate) may be beneficial, although studies have been
equivocal.
Question:
I know that there is usually only a small window of
opportunity in which the summit of Everest can be reached.
With so many climbers on the mountain how do you decide
which teams will be eligible to attempt a summit bid during
the "window"? There isn't a lot of time to spend waiting in
line when you get above 26,000 feet. Thanks for sharing your
adventure with the world and good luck!
Renny Sumprun
Austin, TX
Response:
It is up to the individual teams, based on their
acclimitization schedules, to decide when they feel ready to
make a summit attempt.
Question:
My question is, what is the size and weight of the equipment
that allows you to receive & send E-mail messages and
how far up the mountain do you plan to take it? I'm amazed
with the level of technology that allows us to do this. Good
Luck ! ! !
Victor Winstead
York, PA
Response:
We transmit all of our e-mail from base camp (17,600') via
an Apple Computer laptop (5300cs or a 1400c) and a satellite
telephone. All of the news from the higher camps is
transmitted to us via walkie talkie.
Question:
To David Breashears, We are all watching the ascent and
thinking of you. Thank you for helping us get Turning Point.
Do you have any comments on what makes a successful leader
of an expedition? We are exploring concepts of leadership,
and wondered if you had input. Thank you. Take care.
Virginia Squier
Jackson, WY
Response from David Breashears:
An expedition leader is only as good as his team. The first
priority is to choose good people to surround yourself
with—a good sirdar, a good sherpa climbing staff, a
good cook staff and of course strong and talented expedition
members. Other important attributes include communication,
delegation and trust in your team.
Question:
Dave! WOW! My Mom just gave me your e-mail + told me you
were on the mountain. I hope everything goes without a hitch
and you get up + down safely. Then I hope to see you on the
Discovery Channel or TLC in a few months coming down in one
piece. Big Jane must be a nervous wreck! Stay safe and we'll
say a prayer for the safe return of you and your group.
P.S. Hey, I've got a son now too—Johnathan Barrett. 7
months.
Take Care,
Jeff Witmer
Louisville, KY
Response from Dave Carter:
Great news and thanks for the support. If you want to follow
our progress keep logging onto this website. Look for the
NOVA film next winter on PBS—that is the only place to
find it!
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