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June 7, 2000
Forest of Hope
Without the forest, there will be no more water,
without water, there will be no more rice.
—Malagasy proverb
Two days ago, while the rest of the team left the forest to
attend the National Day of the Environment in nearby Andapa, I
stayed behind at Camp Two. After five days lost to a blazing
foot infection, and two more days of delicate hobbling around,
I needed a final day to do at least some cursory exploring of
this extraordinary forest.
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The view from just below the razorback ridge, high
above Camp Two at Marojejy.
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My guide
Desiré Rabary, a tough-looking young porter named Bevo Rajaonina, and I
left camp around eight in the morning. It was strange after a
week of frenzied activity at Camp Two, with Malagasy and
Westerners up early to work and singing late into the night,
to find the camp silent and empty. It was just the three of us
plus Nestor Randrianasy, the cook, who as usual had water on
the boil at dawn.
Our destination was a narrow opening on a razorback ridge high
above Camp Two. It was called Mandrivotra ("nice wind"). It
would be a long, steep climb up a slippery trail, but it
afforded one of the few views out over the forests of
Marojejy. On Monday it had rained all day, making a miserable,
leech-rich hike out for the team. But Tuesday felt drier, and
by the time we reached Mandrivotra after a strenuous 90-minute
slog, the sun was scooting in and out of fleecy clouds.
The view was magnificent. On both sides of the steeply pitched
ridge, mountains feathered in pure, primary rain forest
stepped back as far as the eye could see. All save in the
direction of the road from which we'd trekked in, that is.
There, off in the blue distance, I could just make out bare
slopes where local Malagasy had cleared hillsides to plant
rice.
The edge of Marojejy National Park, where primary
forest meets secondary forest and farm fields, is
clearly defined.
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As vast as Marojejy is, about 150,000 acres, it's but an islet
in a sea of degradation. Driven by expanding numbers in need
of more land, the people of Madagascar have slowly slashed and
burned the island's rain forests for rice fields. It's what
their ancestors have done for millennia, but now the forests
are vanishing at an alarming rate. In the second half of the
20th century alone, half of Madagascar's remaining forests
disappeared.
What rural Malagasy need is alternatives to shifting
agriculture, and one of the most promising is ecotourism. Now
that Marojejy is a national park, half of all visitor entrance
fees will go to local villages (the other half goes to the
national parks authority). People like Desiré Rabary
and Nestor Randrianasy can make good money guiding and cooking
and providing other services for visitors. But even a
successful national park like Ranomafana, a rainforest park in
the southeast, gets only about 10,000 visitors a year, and
there will always be only so much work to go around. The
challenge in such situations - and it's a monstrous one - is
to find ways to ensure that as broad a swath of the local
population benefits from the park as possible.
After a lunch of rice and beans, forked down while rain fell
in great sheets just beyond the edge of the cook tent's
overhanging tarp, we headed down out of the park. Along the
way, we encountered more of the park's natural wonders: a
paradise flycatcher with its impossibly long tail feathers;
two troops of eastern gray bamboo lemurs eyeing us silently
before crashing off through the trees; a black, squiggly
fungus aptly called "dead man's finger"; innumerable tiny
waterfalls spilling out of the heights.
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Bevo Rajaonina, a brawny young porter, makes his way
through the pastiche of rice fields, small hamlets,
and secondary forest just outside Marojejy National
Park.
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At the park's demarcation line, we suddenly exited primary
rain forest into a pastiche of rice fields, hut clusters,
burned hillsides, and secondary forest. The contrast was
extreme: One moment, dense, dark forest with trees shooting 80
or 100 feet up. The next, open landscape with the sun burning
down on our heads. Though they bear their own beauty, such
forest-unfriendly human environments are what await
Madagascar's remaining unprotected forests. As one long-time
researcher on the island put it once to me, "After about the
next 20 years, what is left outside of reserves probably won't
be worth saving."
Rabary understands this implicitly. He was telling anyone who
would listen - including
Pat Wright, who did listen—about the urgent need to protect a
corridor of rain forest that stretches from Marojejy to
Masoala. Formed in 1997, Masoala is another national park that
protects the largest remaining stand of primary rain forest on
the island. Unless this corridor gains protection, he fears it
will be gone within just three years.
Such conservation-mindedness is sorely needed in
Madagascar—along with continued and increased
conservation and development funding from the West. One can
only hope that protected areas like the Ankarana Reserve and
the new Marojejy National Park, along with the benefits that
can accrue from them, foster such thinking on a broader scale
than currently exists. Hope springs eternal, especially with
people like Desiré Rabary around.
Peter Tyson
is Online Producer of NOVA.
Dispatches
Forest of Hope (June 7, 2000)
A Great Day for Silkies (June 4, 2000)
Camp Life Unveiled (June 3, 2000)
Three Hours with the Silkies (June 1, 2000)
Angels of Marojejy (May 31, 2000)
Wildlife (May 30, 2000)
Into the Marojejy Massif (May 28, 2000)
Croc Cave (May 26, 2000)
Fossa! (May 25, 2000)
Bat Cave (May 24, 2000)
Update: English Camp (May 23, 2000)
Update: Sunken Forest (May 21, 2000)
Update: Night Walk (May 20, 2000)
Update: 70 Feet Up (May 19, 2000)
Update: Tropical Downpour (May 18, 2000)
Photos: Peter Tyson.
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