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As this mosaic reveals, pearls have been treasured
for countless centuries.
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The History of Pearls
© by Fred Ward
Long known as the "Queen of Gems," pearls possess a history
and allure far beyond what today's wearer may recognize.
Throughout much of recorded history, a natural pearl necklace
comprised of matched spheres was a treasure of almost
incomparable value, in fact the most expensive jewelry in the
world. Now we see pearls almost as accessories, relatively
inexpensive decorations to accompany more costly gemstones.
Before the creation of cultured pearls in the early 1900s,
natural pearls were so rare and expensive that they were
reserved almost exclusively for the noble and very rich. A
jewelry item that today's working women might take for
granted, a 16-inch strand of perhaps 50 pearls, often costs
between $500 and $5,000. At the height of the Roman Empire,
when pearl fever reached its peak, the historian Suetonius
wrote that the Roman general Vitellius financed an entire
military campaign by selling just one of his mother's pearl
earrings.
No one will ever know who were the earliest people to collect
and wear pearls. George Frederick Kunz, whom I like to call
America's first gemologist, in his 1908 masterpiece,
The Book of the Pearl, states his belief that an
ancient fish-eating tribe, perhaps along the coast of India,
initially appreciated the shape and lustre of saltwater
pearls, which they discovered while opening oysters for food.
No matter the origin, a reverence for pearls spread throughout
the world over the ensuing millennia. India's sacred books and
epic tales abound with pearl references. One legend has the
Hindu god Krishna discovering pearls when he plucks the first
one from the sea and presents it to his daughter Pandaïa
on her wedding day. China's long recorded history also
provides ample evidence of the importance of pearls. In the
Shu King, a 23rd-century B.C. book, the scribe sniffs that as
tribute, a lesser king sent "strings of pearls not quite
round." In Egypt, decorative mother-of-pearl was used at least
as far back as 4200 B.C., but the use of pearls themselves
seems to have been later, perhaps related to the Persian
conquest in the fifth century B.C. Rome's pearl craze reached
its zenith during the first century B.C. Roman women
upholstered couches with pearls and sewed so many into their
gowns that they actually walked on their pearl-encrusted hems.
Caligula, having made his horse a consul, decorated it with a
pearl necklace.
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The Romans and Egyptians prized pearls above all
other gems.
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Pearls, in fact, played the pivotal role at the most
celebrated banquet in literature. To convince Rome that Egypt
possessed a heritage and wealth that put it above conquest,
Cleopatra wagered Marc Antony she could give the most
expensive dinner in history. The Roman reclined as the queen
sat with an empty plate and a goblet of wine (or vinegar). She
crushed one large pearl of a pair of earrings, dissolved it in
the liquid, then drank it down. Astonished, Antony declined
his dinner—the matching pearl—and admitted she had
won. Pliny, the world's first gemologist, writes in his famous
Natural History that the two pearls were worth an
estimated 60 million sesterces, or 1,875,000 ounces of fine
silver ($9,375,000 with silver at $5/ounce).
The Arabs have shown the greatest love for pearls. The depth
of their affection for pearls is enshrined in the Koran,
especially within its description of Paradise, which says:
"The stones are pearls and jacinths; the fruits of the trees
are pearls and emeralds; and each person admitted to the
delights of the celestial kingdom is provided with a tent of
pearls, jacinths, and emeralds; is crowned with pearls of
incomparable lustre, and is attended by beautiful maidens
resembling hidden pearls."
Over time, a range of pearl styles became available
to royalty and commoners alike.
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Pearl Harbors
During the long history of pearls, the principal oyster beds
lay in the Persian Gulf, along the coasts of India and Ceylon
(now Sri Lanka), and in the Red Sea. Chinese pearls came
mainly from freshwater rivers and ponds, whereas Japanese
pearls were found near the coast in salt water. Nearly all the
pearls in commerce originated from those few sources. Over the
next millennium only three substantive events altered what
appeared to be a very stable pattern. Considering the minimal
state of pearling in the United States today, it is impressive
that two of the three developments occurred in the New
World.
As Europe raced to capitalize on what Columbus had stumbled
upon, the major powers of the day concentrated on spheres of
influence. Spain focused its efforts in Central and South
America and the Caribbean. Along both the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts of Central America, the Spanish forced slaves to dive
for pearls. The English colonizers along North America's
Atlantic coast and French explorers to the north and west, all
found native Americans wearing pearls, and they discovered
freshwater pearls in the Ohio, Mississippi, and Tennessee
River basins. So many gems were exported to Europe that the
New World quickly gained the appellation "Land of Pearls."
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Mother-of-pearl, the iridescent coating inside oyster
shells, once formed the foundation of a thriving
button industry in the U.S.
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What is now the United States became famous for two products.
Its best freshwater pearls fueled a ready market overseas,
purchased by people who, unlike the then less sophisticated
frontier Americans, knew the rarity and value of large, round,
lustrous pearls. Many of the best examples made their way into
Europe's royal gem collections, where they can still be seen
on display, usually misidentified as saltwater pearls from the
Orient. America also produced mother-of-pearl buttons, which
it exported all over the world. Iowa became the center of the
trade, shipping billions of iridescent fasteners until World
War II, when newly invented plastic virtually drove quality
buttons out of the market.
While North America set a new standard for large freshwater
pearls, white saltwater pearls from the coasts of Panama and
Venezuela competed with pearls from Bahrain, and black
saltwater pearls from the Bay of California (in what is now
Mexico) provided an alternative to Tahitian blacks. More
pearls arrived in Spain than the country's aristocratic market
could absorb. As with the emeralds it was mining in Colombia,
Spain found ready buyers for its new pearls across Europe and
in India.
Those pearl supplies continued into the 1800s, until
overfishing in Central American waters and in North American
streams depleted the beds. Pollution also took its toll as the
United States industrialized. Then, toward the end of the last
century, the single event that forever reshaped the pearl
trade slowly unfolded in the isolated island nation of
Japan.
Son of a Japanese noodle maker, Kokichi Mikimoto
single-handedly launched the cultured-pearl industry.
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A Culture is Born
Kokichi Mikimoto, the son of a noodle maker, had a dream and a
hard-working wife, Ume. Together they set about to do what no
one else had done—entice oysters to produce round pearls
on demand. Mikimoto did not know that government biologist
Tokichi Nishikawa and carpenter Tatsuhei Mise had each
independently discovered the secret of pearl
culturing—inserting a piece of oyster epithelial
membrane (the lip of mantle tissue) with a nucleus of shell or
metal into an oyster's body or mantle causes the tissue to
form a pearl sack. That sack then secretes nacre to coat the
nucleus, thus creating a pearl.
Mise received a 1907 patent for his grafting needle. When
Nishikawa applied for a patent for nucleating, he realized
that he and Mise had discovered the same thing. In a
compromise, the pair signed an agreement uniting their common
discovery as the Mise-Nishikawa method, which remains the
heart of pearl culturing. Mikimoto had received an 1896 patent
for producing hemispherical pearls, or mabes, and a 1908
patent for culturing in mantle tissue. But he could not use
the Mise-Nishikawa method without invalidating his own
patents. So he altered the patent application to cover a
technique to make round pearls in mantle tissue, which
was granted in 1916. With this technicality, Mikimoto began an
unprecedented expansion, buying rights to the Mise-Niskikawa
method and eclipsing those originators of cultured pearls,
leaving their names only for history books.
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Mikimoto's efforts made pearls in a range of styles
and prices available to consumers worldwide.
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Largely by trial and error over a number of years, Mikimoto
did contribute one crucial discovery. Whereas Nishikawa
nucleated with silver and gold beads, Mikimoto experimented
with everything from glass to lead to clay to wood. He found
he had the highest success rates when he inserted round nuclei
cut from U.S. mussel shells. Although some countries continue
to test other nuclei, U.S. mussel shells have been the basis
for virtually all cultured saltwater pearls for 90 years.
Even though third with his patents and his secrets, Mikimoto
revolutionized pearling. Ever the flamboyant showman and
promoter, he badgered jewelers and governments to accept his
cultured products as pearls. His workers created massive pearl
structures, which he displayed at every major international
exposition. By mastering the techniques, Mikimoto, then
hundreds of other Japanese firms, made pearls available to
virtually everyone in the world.
Fred Ward is a gemologist and author of the book
Pearls (Gem Book Publishers, Bethesda, Maryland,
1998), from which this article was adapted.
What's Killing the Oysters
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Culture of Freshwater Pearls
How Many Pearls?
| History of Pearls |
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| Updated November 2000
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