

A Taste of Mazatlán
Season 8 Episode 805 | 26m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
Pati meets up with two close friends for a local's tour of Mazatlán.
Premiere resort town, Mazatlán, has overcome a troubling and complicated history to become Sinaloa’s number one destination. Pati meets up with two close friends, chefs Luis Osuna and Zahie Tellez, both of whom witnessed the evolution of Mazatlán firsthand. They each give Pati a personal tour of the city, and Chef Luis takes Pati to his family’s restaurant, Panama.
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Pati's Mexican Table is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

A Taste of Mazatlán
Season 8 Episode 805 | 26m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
Premiere resort town, Mazatlán, has overcome a troubling and complicated history to become Sinaloa’s number one destination. Pati meets up with two close friends, chefs Luis Osuna and Zahie Tellez, both of whom witnessed the evolution of Mazatlán firsthand. They each give Pati a personal tour of the city, and Chef Luis takes Pati to his family’s restaurant, Panama.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> Pati Narrates: Mazatlan is in every way a reflection of Sinaloa.
For some, it's a beautiful port in the North Pacific.
For others, a place that has struggled through challenging times.
But for people who live and grew up here, it is something else entirely.
Meet Mazatlan, and they want to show the world what this city is to them, a beautiful, colorful, delicious place that has built itself back up and is living its future.
I'm meeting up with two good friends, Chefs Zahie... Zahie!
and Luis for a true local taste of Mazatlan.
This is like a Mexican craving factory.
Pati Narrates: In my kitchen... Oh, look how beautiful this looks!
Pati: Recipes inspired by Luis' family restaurant.
The iconic Sinaloan destination, Panama.
A crazy Chicken Milanesa Torta topped with chunky guacamole with a kick, Chiles Toreados.
>> Sammy: Oh man, this is so good!
>> Pati Narrates: And a creamy, smooth, oh-so-satisfying Guava Pie straight from the Panama menu.
>> Sammy: I don't really like guava generally, but I really like this pie.
>> Pati: Mmm.
♪ ♪ >> Announcer: Pati's Mexican Table is made possible by: ♪ >> La Costena.
Over 40 years, bringing authentic Latin American flavors to your table.
Tropical Cheese.
♪ ♪ Avocados from Mexico >> BanCoppel.
Your recipe for sending money to Mexico.
>> Chilorio.
La Chata.
>> Pati Narrates: Located on the Pacific in Southern Sinaloa, Mazatlan is a major port city of over 400,000 people and it is a beauty.
There are dramatic vistas, a vibrant colonial neighborhood, and a coastline that disappears into the horizon, but you know I'm not here just for a stroll, I'm here to eat!
Home to Mexico's second largest fishing fleet, the seafood in Mazatlan is out of this world, especially the shrimp.
Shrimp is the identity of coastal Sinaloa.
It is the people's food, and the experience of visiting the shrimp stalls are deeply ingrained in the memories of those who grew up here, like my friend and fellow Chef Zahie.
Zahie remembers her dad would bring her to buy shrimp from the Changueras or "monkey women" as these shrimp sellers are called.
Pati: "Changuera" translates to, like "monkey woman" - >> Zahie: Yes, that's why.
>> Pati: And it's because of the nets they use to - >> Zahie: Uh-huh, because they're called "changos".
(laughs) >> Pati: Si!
Pati Narrates: Zahie is a dear friend.
She's a chef and host of her own cooking shows, but her love for food started right here at the markets of Mazatlan.
Pati: Why did your dad come here?
He didn't have a restaurant - >> Zahie: No, but he loves to cook.
Actually, he taught me how to cook, that's why I am a chef.
And we go fishing on Sundays, and every time we didn't catch anything we came here (laughs) >> Pati: Muchas gracias!
>> Zahie: Gracias!
>> Pati Narrates: Zahie grew up near the central market, and every Sunday her mom would take her there for lunch, an experience she wants to recreate for me.
>> Zahie: This is our Mercado Pino Suarez and we used to live very near here.
>> Zahie: I was that age when my mother would take me to the market!
>> Pati Narrates: For Zahie and her mom, weekend traditions would always lead them upstairs, for tiny restaurants use market fresh ingredients to feed hungry shoppers.
For me, Sopa de Cameron, which has whole shrimps cooked in a rich tomato broth.
And Zahie gets Caldo de Pescado, which is a spicy fish and vegetable stew.
(Pati and Zahie laugh) >> Pati: Mmm!
Que delicia... >> Zahie: Si!
So what does this place make you think of?
>> Zahie: This is very simple preparation, simple dish, but full of flavor.
I mean, it's like the Mexican way to eat and live, in Mazatlan it's amazing.
>> Pati: It is very full of life.
Pati Narrates: There is much to love about Mazatlan now.
The colorful streets, inviting beaches, the incredible food, but Zahie has watched her city overcome a lot to get to this moment.
>> Zahie: You know, we're in Mazatlan in Sinaloa, at the end, everybody sees us as the most violent state in Mexico, and for many years they're right, because the Narcos used to live here, and this city was like a ghost city, I'm talking about probably 15 - 20 years ago.
>> Pati: But before then it had been one of the jewels of Mexican tourism.
>> Zahie: Yeah, they called us the Perla del Pacifico.
>> Pati: How have people here taken back Mazatlan?
Because now it's incredibly safe.
How did they make that turn?
>> Zahie: It took years to build again all the trust in the people.
Right now you have to see because it's like another thing.
It's like when I was little, I had a very happy childhood and everybody was together, and right now we're getting that part, so people right now are very proud to be here.
I don't know how to say it - (Zahie speaks Spanish) Take your chances - yeah, give it another chance, and come to Mazatlan.
>> Pati Narrates: Later I'm meeting up with my good friend Luis at his family's restaurant, Panama.
Panama is iconic, and they're known for having some of the best desserts in all of Sinaloa, but this Guava Pie... Mmm... Mmm!
Pati Narrates: I can't begin to describe how good it is.
Luis is such an amazing friend that he actually gave me the recipe so now you can have it too, and I'll start with the crust.
Pati: I have 5 ounces of Maria Cookies that I already crumbled into really fine crumbs, and this is about 1 and 3/4 cups.
6 tbsp of unsalted butter that I already melted.
This is a very unexpected pie, beginning with its name, Guava Pie.
I would have never thought about a pie whose star was guava.
So you just start pressing as you go around, and you try to flatten it.
You want to make a wall.
You want to put this in the oven, 400 degrees for about 18 minutes.
So I'll start to make the filling and to make this incredibly creamy filling there is one surprising ingredient, and it is unflavored gelatin, and I have in here 1 and 1/ 2 tsp of unflavored gelatin granules, and now I'm going to combine this with 2 tbsp of water.
Now here's the thing, when you mix gelatin granules with water, it's supposed to dissolve fast, but generally clumps remain.
See how there's clumps in here?
So this one trick to completely dilute the gelatin is very easy to do.
I have hot boiling water here, and I'm going to pour it onto this plate, and then I'll have these both sit here while I get my filling going.
I have 8 ones of cream cheese and I'm going to beat this until it is completely creamy and smooth.
(mixer whirs) Now I'll add 1 cup and 1 tbsp of heavy whipping cream, and then I have 1 and 1/2 tbsp of sugar.
(mixer whirs) Pati: Okay, so I beat it until it is nice and thick, but still not holding stiff peaks, and at this point I'll add the dissolved gelatin, and now I'll really beat until it holds stiff peaks.
(mixer whirs) So this is the consistency we want, super fluffy, creamy filling.
So now I'll put it in the fridge so it can chill for at least an hour.
So the topping is gonna be a guava topping, and the guavas will be dressed in a simple syrup, and simple syrup is a very sophisticated term for nothing but equal parts water and sugar diluted.
I have 1/4 cup of water, 1/4 cup of sugar.
They may try to sell you simple syrup at the supermarket, so you know it's just water in sugar.
And then I'll just let this sit and cool as I cut my guavas.
Now let's talk about guavas.
When they ripen, they go to yellow, different from avocados, avocados give in when you give them a gentle hold, guavas may not give in that much, but you can smell.
This is ready and ripe and I wish I could describe - it smells like perfume, and I'll cut them into bite-sized pieces.
They have a bunch of little seeds, but in the pulp that's in between the seeds and in the centre, you get the sweetest, most tender, softest part of the guava.
Mmm.
Pati: I have about 4 cups of the guava.
I'm gonna cover it with this simple syrup and put it in the refrigerator to chill.
This will be sort of like a glaze that will cover this topping.
>> Pati: So this is your Mazatlan, right?
>> Luis: Yes - >> Pati: You grew up here, you love it.
>> Luis: I love it, this is awesome, this is a lovely place.
>> Pati Narrates: This is a lovely place.
Mazatlan has spent the last few decades restoring itself and has reclaimed its place as a real treasure of Mexico's Pacific coast.
My dear friend and fellow Chef Luis was born and raised here, and his plan is to show me all of Mazatlan, and there is one place where we can do just that, El Faro Lighthouse.
Located on the Southern most tip of the city, El Faro sits 523 feet over Mazatlan making it the highest lighthouse in the Americas.
Pati: This is so stunning!
>> Luis: (laughs) I know, I know!
Okay, the old Mazatlan starts from the Cathedral.
>> Pati Narrates: Since the mid-1800s Mazatlan has been one of the most important international ports on the West Coast of the Americas.
The old town sprawls out beneath the breathtaking gold peaked cathedral, and the architecture reflects the European influence of its early traders.
For the last 20 years, at the height of the drug cartel violence, it would not have been safe to walk the streets, but now... >> Pati: I know, it's so beautiful and charming!
>> Pati: Si, si, si, Tuesday afternoon!
I see a lot of Americans here.
Where are you from?
>> Tourist 1: Seattle.
>> Pati: Seattle?
>> Tourist 2: I'm from Oregon.
>> Pati: Oregon?
Are you guys vacationing?
>> Tourist 2: Yeah, it's been fun, we've loved it, it's lovely here.
We were on the water, oh, it's beautiful!
>> Luis: Thank you, thank you my dear.
>> Tourist 2: What are you doing right now?
>> Producer: It's a TV show.
>> Tourist 2: Oh, we're on TV!
Woo!
(laughs) >> Pati Narrates: Growing up, Luis watched as Mazatlan crumbled around him, but as Mazatlan began to rebuild, his family built one of the most iconic restaurants in all of Sinaloa.
This is the neighborhood where you were born?
>> Luis: Si.
>> Pati: And where Panama was born?
Pati Narrates: It was here that Luis' parents transformed the humble little corner grocery store into the most successful restaurant chain in Sinaloa.
A bakery/diner called Panama.
>> Luis: And then my mom starts to make cakes, and then they put their first little restaurant - >> Pati: So you have it in your blood.
>> Pati: You were born in a mixer (laughs) >> Luis: Yes.
Inside (laughs) >> Pati Narrates: If you are from Sinaloa or you've ever been, the mere mention of Panama restaurant is probably making you feel all warm, cozy, nostalgic and homesick.
Tacos, hot dogs, tostadas - it's somehow everything you love about Mexican and American meals rolled into one.
And we haven't even gotten to desserts.
I can taste the frosting just looking at it!
Pati Narrates: Today there are dozens of Panama restaurants in every major city in Sinaloa.
So something that started with his mom selling 3 cakes in a tiny little grocery store turned into this huge thing.
Consistently serving so many delicious dishes across all of its locations is Panama's specialty, and it is in the kitchen where the magic happens.
Pati: Everything seems so incredibly organized.
>> Luis: And clean, do you see this?
>> Pati: And impeccable!
Tell me how do you run this?
>> Pati: It's split by menu sections.
I love pickled pigs feet so much!
From the moment somebody orders until they get it to the table, how much time goes by?
>> Luis: 10 minutes.
>> Pati: 10 minutes.
Ok, my tostada's ready!
>> Luis: Yeah, it's all ready!
>> Pati: So take me to my tostada!
>> Luis: (laughs) >> Pati: I don't know what to begin with, give me some order.
>> Pati: Oy, oy, ok. Mmm.
Mmm!
>> Luis: The texture - >> Pati: Mmm!
This is one of my top 5 favorite things ever.
I'm gonna try this.
>> Pati: Mmm!
The peppermint gives it a very different taste.
>> Luis: Yes.
>> Pati: This is like a Mexican cravings factory!
Ground beef - >> Luis: Ground beef.
Melted cheese.
>> Pati: Potato chips.
>> Luis: Potato chips.
>> Pati: And I see many Americanized Mexican recipes that I think if you were an outsider you wouldn't understand how this is part of Mexican culture.
Why do you think Mexicans have this fascination with Americans?
>> Luis: We are neighbors - >> Pati: Yeah - close neighbors.
>> Luis: Yeah!
Very close, and American people came to Mexico and we're friends.
>> Pati: Ok I'm gonna give it a bite!
>> Luis: Ok. >> Pati: Mmm.
Mmm!
Mhmm, mmm - >> Luis: Guacamole, la mostaza... >> Pati: Mmm!
Mmm!
You didn't think I'd forget dessert, did you?
Feast your eyes on this signature guava pie.
Mmm... mmm... mmm!
Decadent, light and fruity, and you don't know, but you just want to keep on eating.
so perfumed!
Que rico!
>> Pati: Mmm.
Mmm!
There's something going on in Sinaloa, I feel it everywhere I go.
I love the energy that I felt here really, and it's been a pleasure spending the day with you.
>> Pati: One of our favorite tortas at home is a Torta de Milanesa, and I'm making one that combines our love for Mexican ingredients in American inspired dishes just like what happens in the Panama restaurants.
I have 4 chicken breasts that I already pounded to about 1/4 inch thickness, and I'll set up my stations to prep them.
Flour for the first layer, and I'll season every layer with a little bit of salt, and I have 4 chicken breasts because my 3 boys are hovering around the kitchen.
I'm gonna crack 3 eggs.
I'm gonna add a splash of milk.
Salt and pepper here too.
And I'll lightly beat this.
For my breading, I'll use these butter crackers, and I'll just crush them in here.
Now this will be a surprise for my boys because I've always breaded my Milanesa with breadcrumbs, but I was inspired to try new crazy things in Panama, you should see that menu!
It's wild.
And now I'll add some chiles because I want some heat in there, and I got inspired to make this torta in Sinaloa and Chiltepin is king there!
So I'll use my chiltepin masher that now I am a fan of.
You'll see how this starts to come out here, those red specks.
Before I bread my chicken, I'll add some spring onions, like a dozen.
3 jalapeños, and I'll char them.
So I have my chicken, I'll coat it in flour, I'll shake it off.
What this 3 layer thing will do is give the Milanesa a doubly crisped coating, and look how pretty it looks!
(chicken fries) Repeat the same process.
I'll flip my chicken.
Oh, look how beautiful this looks!
I'll give it another minute on that side.
Pati: With these roasted jalapeños and spring onions, I'll make Chiles Toreados, and I'll use that to make a spicy and oh-so- flavorful guacamole.
Chiles Toreados translates to something like "matador" or "bull fighter chiles", and that is because they're considered to be very fiery.
So I'm adding 1/3 cup of soy sauce, 1/3 cup of lime juice.
You can make your Chiles Toreados with your whole chiles, with chopped chiles, sliced chiles - I like them cut into thick slices.
You're creating two products: the marinated fire roasted chiles and onions, but you're also making this incredibly delicious sauce that you can use for vinaigrettes, guacamole, salsas, salads.
Look at that beautiful mix!
So you want to let this sit for at least 10 minutes while I assemble the rest of my tortas.
We're gonna do a mayo spread.
I'll just combine 1 cup of mayo, 1/2 cup of queso cotija, grated Oaxaca, like 2 cups.
I'll put this in the oven that I have at 450 degrees for just a few minutes.
This is what I'm gonna do to my guacamole, I'll add some of these jalapeños and spring onions with a little bit of the sauce.
Coarsely chop the cilantro, add it in here.
A little bit of salt because I have soy sauce.
I'll make a paste.
I'm really excited because this is a new matador guacamole, and the name is just a killer!
And that was a terrible pun/joke, 'cause matador is killer.
(Pati and crew laughs) Then I'll cut into my avocados, I think I need 2.
Mmm.
Mmm... mmm!
It's so good!
Imagine a guacamole with the flavor of soy and lime and roasted jalapeños and scallions that are charred and soft and so rustic.
Perfect, perfect, perfect.
My loves!
So how much do we love Torta de Milanesa?
>> Sammy: Ooh, we love it!
>> Juju: Yeah.
>> Pati: Okay, I made different things for the Torta de Milanesa, see if you like it.
We'll add this sauce in here.
That beautiful vinaigrette from the Chiles Toreados.
It's perfect!
>> Sammy: I don't know if I should put more?
>> Pati: That looks good!
(family marvels in unison) >> Sammy: Good?
>> Juju: Mmm!
>> Sammy: Oh man, this is so good!
>> Pati: I did something new.
This has butter cracker crumbs.
I think the butter cracker crumbs give it like a very buttery and especially savory taste.
>> Alan: It goes well, because the greens are acidic.
>> Pati: It's really interesting, no?
Like it has a fascinating crunch.
>> Sammy: Yeah, it's different.
>> Pati: This pie that I'm about to assemble is the biggest seller in Sinaloa.
After you have it, you really crave it again.
Decorate it with pecan.
We'll drizzle cajeta.
>> Sammy: I don't really like guava generally, but I really like this pie!
>> Pati: Mmm!
I think it's spectacular.
I mean, the guava - it's so unexpected, but so perfumed and exotic and exuberant and refreshing!
>> Juju: Mhmm - >> Pati: Mhmm?
Mhmm!
Mhmm!
>> Juju.
Mhmm.
>> Pati.
Mhmm.
>> Sammy: I'll take another slice too.
>> Pati: Mmm!
Yay!
This makes me super happy.
>> Pati Narrates: For recipes and information from this episode and more, visit PatiJinich.com, and connect!
Find me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest @PatiJinich.
>> Announcer: Pati's Mexican Table is made possible by: ♪ >> La Costena.
A tradition of authentic Latin flavors and family recipes.
Tropical Cheese.
♪ ♪ Avocados from Mexico >> BanCoppel.
Your recipe for sending money to Mexico.
>> Chilorio.
La Chata.
>> Announcer: Proud to support Pati's Mexican Table on public television.
Support for PBS provided by:
Pati's Mexican Table is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television















