
Artisans of Charleston
10/5/2020 | 26m 44sVideo has Closed Captions
Georgia is in South Carolina where she is preparing a dinner at historic Fenwick Hall.
Georgia is in Charleston, South Carolina where she is preparing a dinner at historic Fenwick Hall. She invites a legendary queen of Southern cooking to come by and teach her the secret to her two ingredient biscuits, learns a Nigerian inspired cocktail from a local sommelier, and heads out on the water to harvest oysters. Georgia also shares her tips for setting a southern outdoor table.
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Modern Pioneering with Georgia Pellegrini is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Artisans of Charleston
10/5/2020 | 26m 44sVideo has Closed Captions
Georgia is in Charleston, South Carolina where she is preparing a dinner at historic Fenwick Hall. She invites a legendary queen of Southern cooking to come by and teach her the secret to her two ingredient biscuits, learns a Nigerian inspired cocktail from a local sommelier, and heads out on the water to harvest oysters. Georgia also shares her tips for setting a southern outdoor table.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> "Modern Pioneering" is funded by... Brightwater: A Center for the Study of Food, offering degrees in culinary arts, artisanal food, baking, beverages, and more... ♪ ...Sullivan Catskills, a destination for long walks, casting a line, paddling a stream, and farm-to-table cuisine, located 90 minutes from Manhattan -- SullivanCatskills.com... also in part by contributions from the following... and by the support of generous individuals.
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♪ >> My dad always told me mastery doesn't create passion, passion creates mastery.
That mantra -- it set the tempo to my life and how I thought about work and what it means to find the kind of work that drives you.
It has made me particularly fascinated by individuals who have managed to turn a passion and a craft into their life's work.
>> A little more butter on here.
>> Charleston, South Carolina, is full of these types of people, ones who are creative and innovative while simultaneously preserving and honoring their respective traditions.
I'm here to dive deep into the culture with a range of talents.
>> This is an Italian white blend.
>> We'll learn from Femi, a sommelier and music lover who curates the perfect experience in his wine shop Graft.
>> Shake it harder.
>> And we'll make a specialty cocktail together that honors his Nigerian roots.
>> Twice as much self-rising flour as heavy cream.
>> We'll learn the secret to the perfect two-ingredient biscuits with Nathalie Dupree.
>> We're in the heart of the ACE Basin.
>> It's so pristine.
And we'll get knee-deep in oysters.
>> Cheers!
>> And of course, there's a party so we can have an excuse to bring all of these great people together because in a world where we can disagree on a lot of things, food and drink are the great unifier.
And there's nothing like breaking bread with people in order to know them better.
I'm Georgia Pellegrini, a food explorer and author.
Oh, yeah.
I'm on a quest to discover today's masters -- the unsung heroes who are making the best that their own two hands can produce.
>> It is a family secret.
>> So many skills of our past are not being practiced today.
>> There you go!
>> And modern conveniences are driving a wedge between ourselves and the most rewarding things we can do as humans.
Getting your hands dirty.
Come along with me as I discover and celebrate the people who are showing us how to slow down and get back to our roots, because, to me, self-sufficiency is the greatest adventure on Earth.
♪ ♪ In today's episode, we're seeking out the artisans of Charleston, South Carolina.
The range of talented people you're about to meet is a feast for the eyes and the senses.
I hope you're ready.
♪ >> If you bunch your dough, then you won't have even layers, and you're overworking it.
>> Ahh.
>> Joining me here today is food hero and culinary artisan Nathalie Dupree.
>> Because it's low in gluten, it just packs.
>> Nathalie lectures and teaches cooking classes all around the world.
Pop that guy out.
>> Yep.
>> She's a chef and author of 14 cookbooks and is best known for her approachability and her understanding of Southern cooking, having started the New Southern cooking movement now found in many restaurants throughout the United States.
Look at that.
I have been making biscuits with Natalie here all morning, and she's got such great tips.
So I'm excited for you to share these with us.
>> I'm glad, and I'm glad you're getting them under your belt.
>> Yes, I'm gonna be a true biscuit maker after today.
And you only have two ingredients here.
>> Yes.
>> Who knew you could make amazing biscuits with two ingredients?
>> Right, right.
But they are special ingredients.
>> Okay.
>> It's self-rising flour... >> Okay.
>> ...from the South, which is soft winter wheat... >> Interesting.
...which means that -- You know, it's too hot to grow wheat here in the summer.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> So in the winter we grow it, but it makes a weaker wheat.
>> Fascinating.
>> So, not as good for breads.
>> So that means lower gluten.
>> So it means lower gluten.
>> Okay.
>> Yeah.
>> Fantastic.
>> Yeah.
>> And you said I should be using this magic ingredient.
>> Whisk it up.
You can use a fork.
I mean... >> Okay.
And so instead of sifting, we're just sort of giving it a whisk.
>> Right, right.
Just to make it a little lighter in case it's been packed in there.
It's a good habit.
>> Sure.
That makes sense.
>> We spend a lot of time improving our habits.
>> Yes.
I got to get a spoon... >> Yeah, and ladle it in.
>> ...and gently ladle it in.
And I'm doing how many cups?
>> We're gonna do twice as much self-rising flour as heavy cream, and then that's it.
>> Got it.
That's easy.
Two-to-one ratio.
Alright, dumping that guy in and then one more.
>> Let me show you my trick.
>> Oh.
[ Laughs ] That is a great trick.
>> I'm just lazy.
>> See?
So many good tips, Nathalie.
>> [ Laughs ] >> I'm so glad we met.
>> Okay.
Yeah.
I am, too.
>> Okay.
We got that there.
>> Yes.
And then this is half as much cream... >> Okay.
As flour.
>> ...as flour.
So... >> Alright, I'll be the pourer here.
>> Yeah, and let's see.
Let's just -- almost all of it.
A little more, more, more, more, more.
Oop.
>> Yeah?
>> Uh...yeah.
>> Stop for now.
>> For now.
Yeah.
So, you want to stir?
>> Yeah, that's fine.
>> Look how it just sits on there.
>> That's beautiful.
>> Isn't it?
>> So, just kind of bringing it all together here.
>> We're doing small biscuits because that's traditional because... >> Interesting.
>> ...if you had a lot of children, you didn't want to make big biscuits because the boys would take two of whatever size there was.
>> There wouldn't be enough left.
>> That's right.
>> This is our secret weapon.
It's a flexible cutting board.
You want to just take your hands and move it.
You could move it with the -- >> Grab it all?
>> Yeah.
>> Kind of have to work it.
>> Yep.
Oh, you kind of leave my crumbs there.
>> Leave the crumbs.
Okay.
>> But if you did, it's not the worst thing.
>> Put that guy over here.
>> Take, fold it.
>> Ah.
>> And press.
>> So, instead of using a rolling pin, you're just pressing with this board.
>> Yes.
>> How efficient.
Oh, did I do a bad job here?
>> No.
Look.
Yeah, just take and flip it over.
>> Okay.
Ah.
>> And... >> Brings it together.
>> Then it brings it together.
Now like this.
>> Ah.
Press again.
>> Mm-hmm.
Yeah, and look how it's going together.
And then, if you wanted to, you could move it just to be sure it wasn't sticking.
>> Okay.
>> And boop.
>> Get that pastry scraper.
>> And then let's just go ahead and press this out again.
>> Okay.
>> There we go.
So, you want to start from the outside in always.
That's true of cookie dough, too.
>> Okay.
>> So, push down, but not on the edge.
Right.
Just in.
>> Okay.
And then pull up.
>> Yep.
Oh!
Congratulations.
You didn't twist it.
>> I got it.
I know.
I was wanting to twist it.
I actually am used to going like this and twisting, but actually that will affect the way it rises?
Is that right?
>> Yeah, yeah, because it'll affect the edges.
>> I have to resist the urge.
>> And, actually, these guys are just a little... >> Tall?
>> ...tall, so I just flatten that out.
It doesn't matter.
>> Okay.
>> And... >> Give it a smack.
>> ...if you get a butter wrapper and measure it... >> Oh, yeah.
>> ...the lines for the tablespoons against your ruler... >> That's a great little tip.
>> ...then you get a sense of how thick you're making it.
>> That's a really good point.
Yeah, it'll tell you, rather than having to go get a measuring tape out.
>> Right.
>> Alright, and I'm gonna do it up against the line -- is that right?
-- so we don't waste any dough.
>> Don't waste any dough.
Perfect.
Oh!
>> Oh, my God, I twisted!
Nathalie!
>> Temptation of the devil!
>> [ Laughs ] >> You know?
>> A little bit more.
I got to keep going here.
>> Yeah.
Perfect.
>> And then before you put that into the oven, you want to brush it.
>> Ah.
>> That makes the third ingredient, so... >> It's just a garnish.
>> Yeah, just a -- It just makes it prettier and softer and... >> A little extra butter.
>> ...you know, nicer.
>> Gives it a little golden brown top perhaps.
>> Yeah.
>> Alright, I think we're ready to go right into the oven.
>> Oop, too much.
[ Both laugh ] >> Never can have too much butter.
>> Ah, well... ♪ >> Here they are, looking good.
>> So, you could add a little more butter on here and then just eat these like they are.
>> And how long do you recommend cooking these for?
>> Oh, about five minutes, and then turn them.
>> Rotate them 90 degrees?
>> Yeah, or wherever, according to your oven.
>> Okay.
>> And then pop them out.
>> Okay, and then for another five minutes.
>> Yeah.
>> Okay.
So, 10 minutes total, roughly.
>> Right.
They just kind of break in half.
And then, see, I even have flour on the butter.
>> [ Chuckles ] Flour everywhere.
>> Yeah.
Well, this was wonderful, Nathalie.
I'm excited to start being a biscuit maker.
Cheers.
>> Ta-da!
>> Biscuit cheers.
Moment of truth.
[ Chuckles ] >> Mmm.
>> That is a biscuit right there.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> So flaky.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> And it really melts in your mouth, and the butter is delicious.
I think it's good that they're small, but I could still eat the whole plate.
[ Both laugh ] Well, thank you so much.
This was such a treat, and I feel empowered now to be a true biscuit maker.
I'm not a Southerner, but I still think I can pretend I'm one on TV.
>> With a name like Georgia... >> That's true.
>> ...you got to be able to make a biscuit.
>> That's a good point.
>> [ Laughs ] >> Thanks, Nathalie.
[ Chuckles ] ♪ While dining in Charleston, you'll want to be sure to check out the oyster scene.
The state's salty marshes and vast tidal areas, combined with a lengthy spawning season, make the perfect habitat for growing meaty, briny oysters.
My relationship with the oyster was one of indifference until a seminal moment years ago when a box of them arrived at my door on New Year's Eve.
The unsigned note read... That heaping pile of oysters was so transcendent that I set out to learn about them and soon found myself knee-deep in the water, shucking them and debating whether one should be an oyster chewer or oyster swallower.
>> It almost looks translucent.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> So whenever I hear about someone who shares the same passion for oysters that I do... Alright, cheers.
>> Cheers.
>> ...I want to meet them and talk oyster shop.
And here in South Carolina, I've found just the person -- That's good.
>> Mmm.
>> That's a good oyster right there.
>> [ Chuckles ] >> Professional fisherman turned oyster farmer Trey McMillan.
♪ >> So, we'll take these back and run them through our machinery.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> And we'll actually densify them, so we'll split them in half.
>> Growing up on the waters in South Carolina, his summer days were spent fishing and crabbing and inhaling oysters.
Little did he know that 20 years later he'd be serving them up, hand-raised, at his own oyster farm in the shimmering waters of the ACE Basin.
Are you a believer in chewing oysters or just swallowing them?
>> You got to chew them.
>> I agree.
Thank you.
You got to chew them.
How do you get the flavor otherwise, right?
>> That's it.
>> Otherwise, it's just a slime ball going right down.
>> They eat phytoplanktons, and in order to release it, you have to chew on it.
That's where you get all the flavor.
>> Further confirmed.
>> Yeah.
>> How many are in a cage, roughly?
>> Um, there's probably around 1,500 to 1,800 per bag.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> So, each cage holds six bags.
So I'd say roughly about 8,000 per cage right now.
>> Per cage?
Wow.
>> The smaller ones than this -- I mean, we'll have 30,000 in a cage.
>> Really?
>> And the bigger ones, we'll only have, you know, maybe a 1,000, 800, whatever it is.
>> And how many cages in this spot right here?
>> This spot is 220 right now.
>> That's a lot of oysters.
>> Yeah, yeah.
We're -- We've got another lease that's significantly bigger than this one, and this one, actually, we just started building out.
So we've got a good amount of build-out time still in this one.
>> It's so pristine.
>> It is, yeah.
There's nothing around.
That's the best part.
>> Yeah.
[ Both laugh ] Just you and the oysters.
>> That's it.
>> So, you're constantly coming out, checking the bags, and flopping out bags.
>> Every day.
We'll be taking these in.
We're gonna run them through our grading machine and actually sort them out by size, and then we'll re-bag them in bigger mesh bags and bring them back out and let them keep growing.
>> That's a lot of work.
>> It's a lot of work.
It's a labor of love.
>> Well, let's get started.
I'm here to help.
>> Let's do it.
>> Alright, I'm gonna test my strength.
>> [ Chuckles ] Alright, let's see.
Do you grab these little wires here?
>> That's fine, yeah.
Throw them right in the boat.
Just try not scratch the boat.
[ Both laugh ] >> There we go.
[ Chuckles ] ♪ The pleasures of eating are trumpeted loudly in today's society, and that is a wonderful thing, but the pleasures of knowing what occurred on the journey from the field to the table are just as important because the food tastes so much better that way.
♪ ♪ Wow, that was a really fun boat ride.
>> Yeah.
>> What's next, Trey?
>> What we're doing now -- they brought them up from the boat.
We've got them at the processing facility here.
>> Okay.
>> What Lee's doing right behind you -- he's loading all these bags into the hopper.
And that hopper -- it's hard to say how many it holds because they're all kind of different sizes.
>> Oh, yeah.
>> But it'll hold a lot.
They'll go from the hopper.
They're gonna come up the conveyor, and they're gonna drop down into this machine called a tumbler.
Water will be going over them the whole time.
And these holes get progressively bigger as they go down.
So, it kind of grades them out by size.
>> Ah, interesting.
>> And it also takes and chips the lip off of them.
So it actually -- it starts to shape the oyster into a deep-cut oyster that you get in a raw bar.
>> Interesting.
>> So, once they get through here, they'll get down to the conveyor.
Whatever comes out down there is usually market-ready.
They're all the same age, but as you can see, like, they're all different sizes.
>> Yeah.
>> So, if we just leave all the big ones in there with the small ones, the big ones will take all the food and kill the little ones.
>> Now, some of these are empty, I'm noticing.
>> Those are the ones that are dead.
>> Okay.
And you can sort of hear them, you were saying?
>> Yeah, yeah, you can hear them.
Like, when you pick up a bag that has a bunch of them in there, they just -- >> It's like a high clicking sound or a high-pitched -- >> Terrible sound.
[ Both laugh ] >> The haunting sound of dead oysters.
Is that what keeps you up at night, Trey?
[ Both laugh ] These are the finished beauties?
>> These are the finished product.
12 months later, this is what you get.
>> Wow.
>> Yep.
>> Nice big cups, too, right?
>> Yeah, they're really good.
>> And I like this shucker you gave me here.
It's got a nice bended tip.
>> Yeah.
>> Cheers.
>> Mmm.
Oysters are so versatile.
You can serve them raw.
You can bake them and turn them into oysters Rockefeller.
But you're always left with a lot of oyster shells.
Don't throw them out.
Up-cycle them and turn them into these oyster-shell place cards.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ I'm down in the heart of Charleston now, right outside of Graft Wine Bar.
I'm about to step inside and introduce you to my friend Femi.
Originally from Nigeria, Femi is one of only seven advanced sommeliers in the state of South Carolina.
♪ You're like this wine prodigy.
You've had so many accolades and awards.
What sparked your interest?
How did you get passionate about wine?
>> A great mentor, a great teacher can do a lot for someone's experience with wine.
I was 21 years old when I started working at this really amazing fine-dining restaurant downtown.
And the wine director, Rick Rubel, really fed my curiosity of questions that I would have for him all the time about, you know, "What's this variety?"
and, you know, "Tell me more about this region."
And I think when you have someone that's willing to mentor you and give you information and kind of teach you the things they know and you get to see that person every day, it really kind of helps develop this desire to want more and learn more.
>> I think a lot of people don't have that mentor, and they can find wine to be just sort of intimidating, you know?
It's sort of, how do you go about picking the right bottle, the right price point, the right value, the right pairing with the right food?
So, if someone was just sort of getting their toes in the water and, you know, wanted to learn but didn't want to be overwhelmed, how would you suggest they start?
So, I think that, you know, if somebody wants to get into wine, there are three things they can really do.
One -- find a shop that they can trust.
>> Mm.
>> And that's really hard.
That's really hard.
We need to elevate, you know, wine shops in this country and the way we talk to people.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> Two -- I think finding a community or group of people or friend that you can taste with and drink with and share ideas with.
And then, three, having someone that can, you know, mentor you regularly and give you more information, someone that maybe knows a little bit more than you that's not gonna be... >> Yeah.
>> ...you know, rude about it.
[ Both laugh ] >> Not be a wine snob.
>> Wine is meant to be enjoyed, you know?
We always make the connection between wine and music at Graft.
And the same passion and joy and communication that we use when we talk about music is really, you know, identical to the way we talk about wine.
>> You're curating an experience.
>> Exactly.
And, you know, music, I hope for a lot of people, doesn't have that, you know, experience where people are timid about, you know, picking out what song they want to listen to.
And I feel like they should have that same comfort and confidence when they're talking or drinking wine.
>> It's interesting.
It sort of takes you on a journey.
It sets the tone or the feeling... >> Absolutely.
>> ...for the moment and the evening.
>> Yeah.
>> You got a lot of good wines here.
Cheers.
I want to try this.
>> No doubt.
>> A good accessory to a good to a good time.
>> Absolutely.
>> [ Chuckles ] ♪ Femi, you have taught me so much about wine.
I am excited to have you teach me a thing or two about cocktails.
What are we making here?
>> So, we've got some really incredible ingredients to play with today, two that are very dear to me, particularly hibiscus and ginger... >> Okay.
>> ...which grow throughout West Africa, West and Northern Africa.
Particularly, hibiscus is used in a very popular Nigerian drink, which is called Zobo.
So, as a West African, I thought it'd be really fun to take some things that I grew up with and make that into a refreshing beverage that we can enjoy in Charleston.
>> I love it.
What a great idea.
>> Yeah.
>> So, what do we have here?
What are all these ingredients?
>> Yeah, so, we've got some hibiscus tea from this beautiful hibiscus right over there.
Take a taste.
>> I'm gonna try this guy.
>> Nature's candy.
>> Mmm.
>> No offense to beets.
[ Both laugh ] >> Oh, it is good.
>> Yeah, for sure.
>> It's sweet and crunchy.
>> From some local honey, we made a little bit of honey and ginger syrup -- >> Mmm.
>> Lemon juice and a lot of love.
>> I love it.
The best ingredients.
>> Yeah, and of course can't forget some really great local gin.
We're gonna get some ice going here.
>> Okay.
>> So, we're gonna start building the drink.
So, what we're gonna do is we're gonna start with the gin.
>> Okay.
>> Okay?
So... >> Mmm, that smells great.
>> Gonna put enough here for us here, and for everybody making it at home, I like to start off with maybe about 2 ounces of gin.
>> Okay.
>> Okay?
And since there's two of us here, we're gonna make it a full party.
>> I love it.
>> Oh, yeah.
[ Both laugh ] Okay.
And then what we're gonna do is we're gonna add in some of this beautiful, tasty honey ginger syrup.
Okay, and we're gonna do equal parts.
>> Okay.
That's nice.
It'll be very ginger-y, which I love.
>> Oh, yeah.
And we're just gonna put a touch of this lemon juice here.
>> Okay.
Like a teaspoon, a half a teaspoon roughly?
>> Yeah, you know, you can do a teaspoon or -- >> I guess it depends on your taste preference.
I love a good tang in my cocktails, but... >> You know, for this, I think it's kind of really up to you, and it also depends on the lemon juice you're using.
I know this is really potent, so a little easy on that here.
>> Okay.
>> And we're gonna add just a touch of ice to keep it cold.
There we are.
I feel pretty good there.
>> Great.
>> Okay.
And give it a good bartender shake.
So, if you dance, this your cardio for the day, before you consume your booze.
Some people like to shake it harder.
>> Okay.
Get it nice and cold.
There we go.
Okay.
>> Now, do I toss this ice out, or are we keeping it in?
>> We're gonna keep that in there.
>> Great.
>> Yeah, I like my drinks on ice, but whatever you like to do at home is what you can do today.
>> That's right.
>> Okay.
So, we are going to finish that there.
And here we go.
Alright.
And while, you know, this would be delicious alone, we can't forget that one of the most beautiful elements here is hibiscus, which we're gonna finish it off with, a little bit of that hibiscus tea.
It's gonna give it some beautiful color and give it some really great floral and gorgeous aromatics.
>> And look at that.
It's sort of darker pink on the top.
It's got a little banding happening.
You're an artist, too.
>> If you want to make it a little pretty here, you can toss in some hibiscus here.
Or if you have got some extra time at home, you can do a little candied ginger.
♪ >> Cheers.
>> Cheers.
Indeed.
[ Laughs ] >> Another delicious drink with Femi.
Oh, that is good.
>> Plenty of fun.
>> Perfect for this evening.
[ Chuckles ] ♪ I am preparing for all of the artisans to arrive for this beautiful dinner, as I get this runner on this table here.
I just thought I'd use a fun gingham.
It feels very Southern to me.
And I'm gonna make sure I secure this properly.
I'm going to use some gaffer's tape.
You could also use painter's tape.
The idea is to use something that doesn't have a lot of stick to it 'cause you don't want to ruin your furniture.
So, I'm gonna secure it under here gently.
And I'm gonna go ahead and set my table.
I've got these fun cabbage ware plates.
You know, it's all about the aesthetic and the color and the texture.
We've also got these fun purple glasses -- once again, just fun color and texture.
I like to have different levels on my table.
So, one fun tip is -- I'm thinking about what I'm gonna put my biscuits on.
So, I'm gonna take a small bowl here, turn it upside down, and have that serve as my foot.
I'm gonna set this plate right on top, and that's gonna serve as a perfect display for my biscuits.
As far as centerpieces go, I don't like to have too much height 'cause I want the guests to be able to see each other.
So, I found these really charming little vintage glasses, and I'm putting just individual stems.
Peonies are in season right now, so they're perfect for this.
But just think about what you can find outside.
Any kind of color will do.
And just set them sporadically throughout the table.
And then, of course, since we're featuring oysters at tonight's dinner, I want it to be all about the oysters.
I have these really charming little tea lights that are set in some oyster shells.
So, we're just gonna have some lovely little lighting spread throughout this table, tuck it in different places.
We're gonna do a napkin underneath each plate.
Just set that out under here.
Put the plate on top just so it's peeking through.
And then, of course, most importantly of all, our place settings.
Put it at the top here.
You can put it perhaps right at the edge, where the napkin is.
Play around with it and see what works.
Now, I have one last tip for you.
When you're entertaining on a warm summer evening, think about, how are you going to keep your food at the right temperature?
I've got this butter here, and what I've done is I've put some water in between these two bowls and I've put it in the freezer.
And that's gonna allow my inner bowl to stay nice and cold and keep my butter at the right consistency.
So, we're gonna set that out, and I'm going to finish setting my table and prepare for my guests.
It's gonna be a delicious dinner.
♪ I had a wonderful time experiencing Charleston through the eyes of the local artisans.
I hope you picked up a few "Modern Pioneering" tips and ideas along the way.
I challenge you to celebrate the artisans in your area by seeking them out and supporting them in your community.
>> Yes!
♪ ♪ ♪ >> To learn more about the topics featured on this episode, log on to GeorgiaPellegrini.com or follow along on Georgia's Facebook and Instagram pages for weekly "Modern Pioneering" adventures, tips, and recipes.
"Modern Pioneering" is funded by... Brightwater: A Center for the Study of Food, offering degrees in culinary arts, artisanal food, baking, beverages, and more... ♪ ...Sullivan Catskills, a destination for long walks, casting a line, paddling a stream, and farm-to-table cuisine, located 90 minutes from Manhattan -- SullivanCatskills.com... also in part by contributions from the following... and by the support of generous individuals.
A complete list is available at APTonline.org.
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