>> Welcome to "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope"... >> Ha ha ha!

>> where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I continue my journey through Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and join in celebration of the country's natural beauty, cultural richness, and Gross National Happiness.

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope" is made possible by... San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio--deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

>> From Punakha, a rich, temperate valley in western Bhutan, my guide Karma and I climb over 11,000-foot passes on our way to culturally rich central Bhutan.

Surrounded by countries with billions of people, Bhutan has less than a million, and about 70% of them live off the land.

In the mountain villages of central Bhutan's Trongsa and Bumthang districts, they reap a harvest of grains, root vegetables, and red-hot peppers and raise yaks, sheep, and goats.

About the size of Iowa, distances between the major settlements in Bhutan are short, yet travel time is long.

Except for its capital Thimphu, Bhutan is a country of villages, and as I move through its beautiful mountain and river valleys, I recede further from the 21st Century and into a time and place where people live in concert with each other and nature.

[Cranes honking] We came here to the Phobjikha valley to see the black-necked cranes, but there' also a village here.

It's a traditional farmers' village--crops, they have their cows, some of the buildings are still built in the traditional way with the wood-shingled roofs with rocks on them.

Exploring their life here is part of the experience, and you should make time for it.

For most Bhutanese, their world is their village, where community effort is essential and happiness is a shared pursuit.

[Rhythmic pounding] >> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> They're building a new house here in the village, and as opposed to in Thimphu when they're building new construction it's with rebar and concrete, they're still building it the old-fashioned way--no nails, and while they pound the mud down, they're singing.

If you wanted a better example of happiness, you can hardly find one.

[Humming] >> [Singing continues] [Honking] >> Conservation of the environment is one of the pillars of Gross National Happiness, and preservation of nature is a important part of the Bhutanese culture.

If you come here to Phobjikha Valley in the winter, you'll see how man and nature peacefully co-exist.

The whole center marshland of the valley has been set aside as a wintering grounds for the rare and endangered black-necked crane.

There's only 5,000-6,000 of them left in the world.

They fly here from Tibet.

About 300 winter here.

It's quite a sight to watch them flying and communicating with each other.

[Honk] If you want to see them, stake out a spot and give yourself time.

Let them come to you.

You can't rush nature.

When the cranes come, it's a big deal here.

There's a festival here at the beginning of November each year, and you know a little bit of the song about the cranes, so sing it for me.

Maybe you can teach me a little bit.

Go ahead.

>> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> [Repeats phrase] >> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> [Repeats phrase] What does it mean?

>> It means that I feel happy you came here to town.

>> Located in the eastern Himalaya, Bhutan is one of the world's most mountainous countries, and since necessity is the mother of invention, it's no wonder that weaving is one of their 13 traditional arts.

Here in the mountains and valleys, it gets pretty chilly in the winter and fall, and the people here have developed yata, which is a type of weaving that uses both wool and the local yak hair.

The yak hair is gathered from the animals here, spun into yarn, and dyed right here in the homes of the people who live in this village.

They use it for their blankets, they use it for their coats, rugs, and this woman has completely woven her kira, her traditional Bhutan dress.

American poet Robert Frost spoke of taking the road less traveled and being the better for it.

While the road to Bumthang, the remote spiritual heart of Bhutan, is not without fellow travelers, taking this path is like being on a spiritual pilgrimage.

I pass the Trongsa Dzong, a former fortress, one of hundreds of dzongs and monasteries serving the secular and religious needs of the people and which is, in fact, a pilgrimage site.

The mountains' many streams power prayer wheels, and at every windswept location, I am met by hundreds of prayer flags so that by the time I drive over the 11,000-foot Yutong La Pass and enter Bumthang district, I am awash with blessings and surrounded by prayer.

Druk Yul is Bhutan's name in Dzongkha, the national language.

It means Land of the Thunder Dragon.

I haven't seen any dragons in Bhutan, but I have seen thousands and thousands of prayers carried on the wind by prayer flags of all sizes, shapes, and colors--blue, green, red, yellow, and white symbolizing water, wood, fire, earth, and iron, or maybe they represent the 5 meditation Buddhas, the 5 wisdoms, the 5 directions, or the 5 emotions.

The white goendhar flies from homes evoking the blessings of Mahakala, Bhutan's primary protective deity.

Lungdhars flutter from every windswept location and display the Wind Horse, who carries a wish-fulfilling jewel on his back.

108 manidhars fly from hillsides above rivers and enlist the water's power in carrying its prayers for the dead.

Lhadhar, the god flag, is flown from dzongs and other official places.

It signifies victory over evil and alerts locals and chillips, foreigners, that traditional or otherwise appropriate attire is required to enter.

Yet above all, the prayer flags make us aware that there is a power and a source that we can turn to in all situations, and that is a comforting and empowering thought.

Mani walls consist of a varying number of stones carved with a simple prayer.

This one repeats the mantra "Om mani padme hum, om mani padme hum," the mantra of the compassionate Buddha.

I was raised Roman Catholic, so they remind me of a rosary.

Perhaps Muslims will think of prayer beads.

Each stone is a prayer.

Stuck within in the wall, you'll often see tsa-tsas.

They are made of clay and pressed from a metal mold.

They help the dead reach heaven, alleviate an obstacle, purify a negative situation, and bless and protect you and your family, and as with all things Buddhist, making them or simply placing them gains merit for not just yourself but for all living beings.

Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, is Bhutan's most revered historic and religious figure.

During a visit to Bumthang in the 8th Century, the Indian holy man introduced Buddhism to Bhutan, laying the foundations for today's monk community.

Traditionally families would dedicate one son to monkhood, gaining merit for the family and the child.

Before public schools were established in the 1960s, the monasteries were the only place for boys to be educated.

Often it is still where children of poor rural families first learn to read and write.

Buddhism permeates Bhutanese life, and a little knowledge of Buddhism will make your trip richer.

With forgiveness from Buddha, I'll superficially hit a few of the highlights.

Bhutan's Buddhism is influenced by Bon, an animist religion, and Hinduism and its pantheon of gods.

In pursuit of spiritual enlightenment and freedom from suffering, Buddha teaches the best way is the middle path between sensual excess and denial of our humanity.

The middle way can be followed by taking the Eightfold Path.

The Eightfold Path is right understanding, right thoughts, right speech, right livelihood, right efforts, right concentration, and--in my opinion the most important concept--right mindfulness.

>> [Singing in foreign language] >> In Bhutan, even 5-star hotels like the Aman Resort strive to expose their guests to the many sides of Bhutanese culture.

Rather than just isolate them in comfort and luxury, the resort, located in the shadow of the Jakar Dzong, adjacent to the 19th Century Wangduechchoeling Palace and Monastery, fills its public spaces with live traditional Bhutanese entertainment.

>> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> In Bhutan, every experience offers an opportunity for growth.

Here the teacher can learn from the student.

>> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> I've learned that less is more.

>> Hmm.

>> It's the style of living here.

It's their way of being.

In between classes, nobody's rushing.

They're just sitting peacefully, often with a smile on their face.

>> The idea was introduced by the fourth king of Gross National Happiness.

>> Yes, GNH.

>> How does it translate in real life here in Bhutan?

>> It's not just a nice thing to say.

They've really made an attempt to focus on that.

In the classroom, we're asked to start our classes with mindfulness training, a meditation.

In the textbooks, you'll notice that there's sort of a GNH aspect to many of the chapters, even in something like science.

[Singing continues] Sonam is the prayer captain.

So could you share a prayer with us on this beautiful morning here in Bumthang?

>> Yes.

This is the one prayer known as... [Speaks Dzongkha] and it starts with... [Speaking Dzongkha] And that's the end.

>> Thank you so much.

What does the prayer say in English?

Could you tell me?

>> It is when we are scared it helps us, and when we are scared, it says that it will protect and it will basically help us.

>> There is no more propitious occasion for the Bhutanese to practice their religion and culture than the countrywide seasonal tsechus, festivals.

In the rustic Bumthang village of Jakar along its main and only street, I begin my preparations.

At festival time and, in fact, many times, the well-dressed Bhutanese man wears his traditional gho.

[Speaks Dzongkha] >> [Speaks Dzongkha] >> Sonam is the proprietor here at Dragon Handicrafts, and he sells ghos and also the accessories.

Now tell me about the design.

>> Oh, you have a very beautiful design.

This is called... [Speaks Dzongkha] This design is very much in the east, you know.

It's a place called Kulti, so it originated from that place.

Now when is it obligatory for a Bhutanese man to wear his gho?

>> During the festival when you go to Dzong, temple.

Also for the children when they go to school.

>> What do you feel about that, that it's obligatory for you to wear your gho?

>> I feel proud and happy wearing a gho.

Signifies the tradition of Bhutan.

If you're going to festival, you need a kabney with the gho.

Does that signify anything?

Why would I wear that?

>> It shows the respect, you know.

>> Well, I certainly want to do that.

>> OK. Now you are perfect, sir.

>> Now I'm perfect.

Well.

Thank you for taking care of me.

[Speaks Dzongkha] >> [Speaks Dzongkha] >> The climax of my Bhutan adventure lies along the route of the Bumthang cultural trek in the village of Choekhor at the Nga Lhakhang, or Swan, Monastery on the 15th day of the 10th lunar month when the constellation Pleiades aligns with the moon.

The road to the monastery is peopled with pilgrims on their way to the tsechu, a religious festival they attend in order to gain merit for everyone.

>> [Speaking Dzongkha] >> Preservation of culture is a pillar of Gross National Happiness, and that the tsechu, I experience how the Bhutanese embrace their heritage.

The festival begins with prayer... and the "dum zhang," a noblewoman from a sister village, serves esteemed guests and the heads of the monastery's noble family "tsing-chang," a local, unfiltered brew.

Although the tsechu is a religious event, it is also a social happening, where friends, families, and visitors meet to pray, talk, laugh, and share in communal celebration.

Inside the temple, the "zephs," nobleman dancers, prepare themselves for their ritualistic role in these rare and sacred dances, which calls upon them to manifest the myths, legends, and icons of Bhutanese history.

>> [Singing] >> The ceremonial procession circles the monastery, and all are blessed who are touched by the holy relics of Lama Namkha Samdrip, who founded the monastery in the 15th Century.

[Singing in Dzongkha] >> What is your name, sir?

>> My name is Joseph.

What's your name?

>> My name's Dorji Chophel.

>> For the festival here, you're making a design.

>> Yes.

>> For decorations?

>> For perform the rituals.

>> For part of the ritual.

>> Yes.

>> And it's made from what?

>> Cow butter, but you have mixed with [indistinct].

>> It's wonderful how simple things can be and you can still create so much beauty, huh?

If I was interested learning about Buddhism, what would you tell me?

>> You have to be a kind person, so you will not kill the animals, not eat meat, alcohol, drugs, and you will not say any harsh words to people.

>> That's kind of good advice for everybody.

I certainly can see your peace, so that probably comes from your Buddhism, but even people who aren't monks here in Bhutan, they have a very peaceful way, and they are, as you say, kind, so I really appreciated my stay here.

[Speaks Dzongkha] [Music playing] The lama's descendants still maintain the monastery and temple.

It's an honor for us to join the family on the viewing platform.

These tsechus are religious dances, and by dancing, the dancers have created a sacred ground here, and all the spectators are being blessed.

Most of the dances have to do with either historical figures or mythical historical figures.

You know, in Bhutan, myths, legends, stories, they're all history here.

>> We are the manifestation of Guru Rinpoche.

He is now dancing in front of us.

>> So they're basically reincarnating the deity, in this case Guru Rinpoche, and I love when they have the war together, they really aren't destroying evil, they're really converting evil.

>> Bad person to good person.

>> Yes, exactly.

I like that.

What are you gonna be doing while you're here?

>> We've done a mix of trekking and a lot of cultural stuff, so visiting temples and dzongs.

Yeah.

Just really enjoying getting to know the local people.

>> That's one of the best things, isn't it, getting to know--and they're so accessible.

>> And incredibly friendly.

Like, you always get a smile and a wave and a hello.

>> Some people think of the idea that the government controls travel here, you can't travel on your own, you have to be with a guide.

That can be seen as some kind of a control thing.

I mean, has it been limiting to you?

>> I don't think there's any controlling or limiting at all.

We're allowed to go and do what we like.

>> Our guide, he's changed our itinerary when we've asked and things like that, so we found it quite flexible.

>> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> Women from the village families prepare cakes from kapchi, wheat flower, which are a sacramental offering to the gods and festival attendees.

The festival's sideshow of goods and games illustrates the Bhutanese acceptance that the spiritual and secular are two sides of the same coin.

While I'm willing to risk one old hundred... >> Hundred.

>> and I'm gonna put it on a diamond.

>> Diamond.

>> Diamond, diamond, diamond, diamond, diamond.

Go, go, go!

Come on!

Ugh!

>> [Indistinct chatter] [Laughter] [Music playing] >> The Bhutanese sense of fun is deeply ingrained.

Their most revered histories are populated by roguish devils, demons, and divine madmen.

During the tsechu, atsara, clowns, harass and mimic the spiritual solemnity of the festival dancers.

>> [Speaking Dzongkha] >> You first came to Bhutan when?

>> In 1990.

>> And you lived here?

>> Yes.

In a remote village in the district of Punakha.

All the kids, they would work in the fields.

One son would go to the monasteries, and that would sustain the family because there was a shortage of labor in those days, and money was not in use.

It was barter, so people paid with rice and chiles.

It was a complete ecosystem and very in harmony with nature.

20 years later, this country is a part of the global village.

People have access to Internet, they have TV, all the kids went to school, so Bhutan was quite successful in the developing for the well-being of its people.

>> Lama Chun Tulku, a reincarnated Rinpoche, arrives to bless the Black Hat Dance, which is performed to clear the minds of all people of negative emotions such as hatred, greed, and ignorance.

The dancers are spiritual warriors, motivated not by anger but by love and compassion.

>> [Singing in Dzongkha] In 1972, the fourth king of Bhutan introduced the concept of Gross National Happiness.

It is founded on the proposition that a nation's true prosperity is based in more than its material worth.

Economic success is only one path towards creating a country that works for everyone.

Preservation of culture, conservation of the environment, sustainable and equitable development, and good governance also contribute to a people's well-being.

As Bhutan faces the challenges of modernization, Gross National Happiness is a tool in its struggle to maintain its authentic heart and soul and instills mindfulness about the qualities that make life worth living, and yet a government cannot make people happy.

Happiness is created in the heart of each of us by each of us.

Moment by moment, day by day, we make the choices that shape our lives, but a government can instill a vision, and in turn, a vision can create thoughts, and it is thoughts that create actions and actions that create our world.

On my journey through Bhutan, it has been the gracious smiles, easy laughter, fearlessness, and willingness to share their lives with me, a wandering stranger, that has demonstrated their joy in life and true happiness.

Till next time, this is Joseph Rosendo reminding you of the words of Mark Twain--"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy traveling.

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope" is made possible by... San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio--deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at travelscope.net.

You can also e-mail us at tv@travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've celebrated in Bhutan together, learn more at travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch--888-876-3399 or tv@travelscope.net.

>> My name's "Honjin."

>> My name's "Isino."

>> Are you coming from school?

>> Yes!

>> What class are you in?

>> 3.

>> [Speaks Dzongkha] >> [Singing in Dzongkha] >> No slate.