>> Welcome to Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope," where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I explore the mystical kingdom of Bhutan, a country where prayers are carried by the wind, and the pursuit of happiness is national policy.

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag jet lag prevention.

>> Situated on the southeast slope of the Himalayas, Bhutan is a country of deep valleys and 24,000-foot mountains.

Sandwiched between India and China, the world's first and second most-populated countries, the kingdom of Bhutan is only 180 miles long, 90 miles wide, and has less than 3/4 of a million people.

The people call themselves Drukpa, and their country Druk Yul--"the land of the thunder dragon."

And upon arrival in Paro, its only international airport, I already sense that I'm in a place like no other.

Former fortresses, the architecturally stunning dzongs are centers of secular and religious governance.

Although a democratic constitutional monarchy, Buddhism, the state religion, permeates every aspect of Bhutanese life.

First tourism to Bhutan began in 1974, but in order to minimize the negative impact that tourism to a country can sometimes have, the government put in place a system where every visitor to Bhutan is accompanied by a guide.

There's also a daily fee.

Here in 2012, the fee ranges from $200 to $250, depending on the season, but it does include your accommodations, your meals, your transportation, your driver, and a guide.

Today I'm heading off on a hike up to one of the most sacred monasteries in Bhutan.

It's called Tiger's Nest, and my guide Karma will be leading the way.

What Mecca is to Muslims, Tiger's Nest is to the Bhutanese.

On my 90-minute trek to the monastery, at every turn I am met by prayer.

I pass stream-powered prayer wheels and prayer flags which, on the back of the wind, deliver their constant blessings to the world.

Besides the thousands and thousands of prayer flags that fly all over Bhutan, there are also prayer wheels.

They can be powered by water, they can be powered by wind, and they can also be manually powered.

On the wheel is the Sanskrit inscription "Om mani padme hum," one of the sacred mantras.

So you spin it in a clockwise direction, repeating over and again, "Om mani padme hum, Om mani padme hum."

So it's an instrument of meditation as well as an instrument of prayer.

You know what they say?

>> Yeah.

>> "Journey of a thousand miles begins with one step."

>> One step.

Yeah, sure.

>> These are many.

>> Yeah.

>> Many steps towards enlightenment.

>> Yes, many, many steps.

>> Well, this is as far as we come, as far as the cameras are concerned.

You know, if you want to protect your traditions and your customs and your heritage, and you want to keep your sacred places sacred, you ask the visitors act in their appropriate fashion.

So there are no cameras.

If you're a local, you must come and visit in your native dress.

For visitors, of course, there's no shorts and you have to remove your head covering.

Certainly the location of Taktsang Goemba, the Tiger Nest Monastery, 3,000 feet above Paro Valley, at 10,000 feet is impressive.

Yet, when the Bhutanese do this pilgrimage, they come to pay homage to Guru Rinpoche, the holy man who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the eighth century.

It's believed that in a cave here, which the monastery is built around, he meditated for 3 months after flying here on the back of a tiger to do battle with the local demon, which he converted into a protected deity.

On your walk, go slowly, stop often, take in the spirit of the place.

There are meditation houses, there are waterfalls and sacred spots to enjoy.

Your hike to the top could be a spiritual journey as well.

Sometimes it's very confusing for a non-Buddhist, and maybe even for Buddhists.

>> Yes.

>> The difference between the different practice of Buddhism throughout the world, like the difference between here in Bhutan and in Thailand.

>> Buddha taught so many ways.

Our ultimate goal is to become enlightened.

>> Right.

>> Thai Buddhism is mainly based on the individual liberations.

We call these self-liberations, whereas in Bhutan, Tibet, Mongolia, those Himalayan regions, mainly concentrate only liberations for the sake of other beings.

>> One thing I learned as my research before we got here was the idea of gaining merit... >> Yes.

>> Doing things for merit, and in our Western culture, it sounds a little bit like you do things in order so that you get something back.

>> Yes, yes, yes.

>> But it's different here in Bhutan.

>> Very good.

There are 6 perfections in Buddhism.

The fourth perfection is perfection of generosity.

That perfection of generosity has no bound, so there is no expectation.

>> You just proved to me why I'm not perfect.

Ha ha!

>> Everyone, every human being is not perfect until you become fully enlightened.

>> Ah.

Here in Bhutan, we hear of a concept the former king put into place.

>> Yes, yes.

>> Gross National Happiness.

>> Yes.

>> Now, how is that complemented by your Buddhist beliefs?

>> Happiness comes from the mind, not from the outer objective phenomena... >> Hmm.

>> So Gross National Happiness bears on the cultivation of positive mental attitude.

Gross National Happiness is not a goal because Bhutanese people live with happiness.

>> And as Bhutan has become more modern... >> Yes.

>> I know that it has some challenges.

>> Yes, the very sophisticated missions.

>> Hmm.

>> For example, like a mobile phone, televisions, Internet, so depending on how you use, if you are a master of your own mind, an outer objective phenomena cannot mind you.

Not a mobile phone, not a sports car.

We need mindfulness.

>> Entranced by Khenpo Tashi's words, I'm drawn across the street into a thangka art studio.

Thangkas tell stories that are deemed to be road maps to enlightenment.

There are 13 traditional arts in Bhutan, and they date back to about the 15th century, and one of them is lha-zo, and that's painting.

Is this a thangkha painting, this painting?

>> This called not thangka.

This for--which we call debri.

>> Debri?

>> Debri, yeah.

A thangka should be small in size.

This is the big size.

That's why this is called debri.

>> Now, is this for temple?

>> This is for the newly constituted temple.

>> It's there for hundreds of years?

>> For hundreds of years, yeah.

>> Oh, that's good.

>> Yeah.

>> Now, I understand that when you paint human figures, they have to be very specific.

You have rules.

>> Each and every measurement in face, eyes, nose, and arms all should be equal measurement.

If you make a mistake, in the next generation, you will have adult eyes.

>> So if you make a mistake in the painting, when you're reincarnated, you'll have a bad nose or--that would be a very good punishment for a bad artist.

>> Yeah, yeah.

>> Ha ha ha!

Next morning, I leave my hotel in Paro and head to Bhutan's capital and only city, Thimphu.

While Bhutan history dates back to 2000 BCE, it just entered the 21st century.

In 2008, the peaceful transition from the absolute rule of kings to parliamentary governance took place, and in Thimphu, the future is showing.

Thimphu became the capital of Bhutan in 1962, and with the opening of the country to tourism in 1974, and the introduction of the Internet and television in 1999, Thimphu has changed more in the last 10 years than it did in the hundred years before.

And as Bhutan continues to modernize, while also attempting to protect and preserve its ancient culture and heritage, Thimphu is the major population center where all those diverse elements are coming together.

Much is up-to-date in Thimphu City, yet some things refuse to change.

They put in a traffic light.

It didn't stay; it's too impersonal for the Bhutanese, so the white-gloved officer's back, and Thimphu remains the world's only capital city without traffic lights.

The early morning rush.

>> Yes, sir.

Rush hour, sir.

>> Is this difficult to do?

>> No, it's not a difficult job, sir, but if I did something mistaking the signal, sir, there's chances to get accident, yes, sir.

>> Now, I understand that they had a traffic light here in Thimphu, and people disliked it so much, they had to take it down.

>> Yes, sir.

We do a much better job, sir.

>> It's much more pleasant to see you than a traffic light.

As the Bhutanese step gingerly into the future, their challenge is to not leave their traditions, customs, and cultural souls behind, which is why the fourth king of Bhutan introduced the concept of Gross National Happiness.

Founded on the proposition that a nation's true prosperity is based on more than its material wealth, the 4 pillars of GNH are sustainable socio-economic development; conservation of the environment; preservation and promotion of culture; and good governance.

I'm at Tashichho Dzong, the fortress of the divine religion in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan.

The structure in the country that is most synonymous with Bhutan are the dzongs.

Originally constructed in the 17th century as fortresses, they eventually became administrative centers and religious monasteries.

Now, there are still 20 dzongs in the country, one in each district, that survive and continue to perform that function today.

As you travel around Bhutan and you visit the dzongs, you'll see that each of them is unique, but they do have similar elements.

The dzongs are divided into a wing for government offices and another for the monk community.

The center tower, the utse, houses the temples and monastery, while the courtyard, the dochey, is where public festivals are held.

Traditionally, the dzongs were built with wood-shingled roofs, no nails, and no plans, just the architect's vision.

After a fire, the Tashichho Dzong was rebuilt in 1966 using these historic methods.

Textiles and tha-zo weaving are as iconic Bhutanese as dzongs.

The work is museum-quality, but the best way to see the craft in production is in one of the small family workshops throughout the country, like this one here in Thimphu.

The most intricate designs are reserved for the traditional dress, the woman's kira and the man's gho, and in silk can take up to a year to weave.

As part of the preservation and promotion of culture, it is compulsory for the Bhutanese to wear the gho and kira at festivals, schools, public buildings, and national monuments, such as the memorial Chorten in Thimphu.

Here at the National Memorial, Chorten, in honor of the third king, do the people come here when a relative of theirs passes away to do prayers?

>> All the people come around to make rounds to make prayers, and then even the oldies and young ones, even the office-goers, since it's in the center of town.

>> There's a section that they have the prayer wheels, where the people are turning the wheels and saying their prayers.

There's also a little house where the butter lamps are being burnt in devotion, and then, individually, people have, in twos or threes, they're also spinning the prayer wheel.

>> Yeah, they sit around wherever they feel comfortable.

>> So this may have been built as a memorial to the third king, but it's being used by the community.

And then there's the temple, of course, in the back and the ceremony in honor of the dead.

>> Today we are performing rituals for my expired grandmother.

We are performing puja for 21 days continuously.

>> 21 days in honor of her.

[Horns playing] [Synchronized chanting] >> We should feel happy with what we have, with what we get, who we are today.

We should appreciate ourselves of who we are, whatever we do.

At the end of the day, we should be satisfied.

>> Just an hour from Thimphu, you come to Dorchu-la Pass, at over 10,000 feet.

On a clear day, you can almost see forever.

You can certainly see the Bhutan Himalayas, at over 24,600 feet.

It's an unforgettable sight.

A structure you'll become familiar with in Bhutan are chortens.

"Chorten" means "religious relic."

The chorten itself is symbolic of the mind of Buddha and the pathway to enlightenment.

These 108 chortens were placed in 2005 by the Queen Mother to honor those who died in the battles with the Assam rebels along the Indian border in 2002.

The Bhutanese come here to honor those dead and also to bring their prayer flags to hang for their own reasons.

I brought prayer flags to hang in honor of all those who died in the recent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan.

There is no railed or regular air service within Bhutan.

That's why the daily tourist fee includes transportation by car or bus.

Things have really improved.

Before 1961, the only transport was on foot or by mule or horseback.

It's slow going, so enjoy.

As Hemingway wrote, "It is good to have an end to journey toward, but it is the journey that matters in the end."

In this area, they have a lot of roadside stands where the people come bring their vegetables and fruits, and they have the corn that they roast here, and they also have this, which I thought was really cool.

It's called olocholo.

[Women laugh] Sounds like a Mexican thing.

Olocholo!

[Women laugh] >> No, no, olochoto.

>> Olochoto!

OK!

[Women laugh] Actually, it translates as "crow's beak," and you can kind of see it.

Part of the joy of traveling in Bhutan, which takes quite a while to do by car, are the attractions that are on the side of the road like this.

Just before you arrive in Punakha, stop off in the town of Sopsokha and visit the Chimi Temple.

In a beautiful setting surrounded by mountains and rice fields, of small villages, the temple is dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley, fondly referred to as "the divine madman."

During the 15th and 16th century, he traveled throughout Bhutan teaching Buddhism in a very unconventional way, through poetry and humor and bawdy songs and foul language, and winning, therefore, the hearts and minds of the people and also accomplishing his intention, which was to teach them the lessons of Buddhism.

It says a lot about the Bhutanese that he's their favorite saint, and you can see his symbol on homes all throughout Bhutan.

I'd show it to you, except I'd lose my "G" rating.

Except for Thimphu and a few small towns, Bhutan is a country of villages.

More than 70% of the population makes their living from farming and livestock, and while a third of the country lives below the poverty line, they express a joy and a contentment in their lives that I've rarely witnessed.

[Children laughing and speaking native language] >> What grade are you in?

>> Seventh.

>> Seventh?

>> Yes.

>> What are you studying?

What do you want to be when you-- >> A doctor.

>> A doctor?

>> Yes.

>> All right.

In Bhutan, a child's education not only emphasizes reading, writing, and 'rithmetic, but a fluency in Dzongka, the national language, and instruction in their cultural heritage, which may include training in one or more of their traditional arts and crafts.

I just happened to walk into the Nazhoen Pelri Skills Training Centre, which fits very well with one of the pillars of Gross National Happiness.

That's equitable and sustainable economic development.

The country sees tourism as a sustainable development that everyone can benefit from.

The young women who come here not only are creating items that they can sell to tourists, but this is a skill that they can take back to their community.

There are 13 traditional arts here in Bhutan, and here they're taught 6 or 7 of them, so an institution like this fulfills two of the pillars of Gross National Happiness: equitable and sustainable development; and, in my opinion, good governance.

How far from here is your village?

>> Two days.

>> Two days?

So when you go back to your village, you have the talents to now create a business.

>> Yeah.

>> Yeah, yeah.

Now, what you make, do you take home and give as gifts, too?

>> We buy our own cloths and we make, then we take as a gift for our friends.

[Man singing in native language] >> Mahayana Buddhism, which is practiced in Bhutan, teaches that one gains merit for the benefit of all beings.

This belief permeates Bhutanese life and creates strong family ties that extend into the community and even to a passing "chilip"--"foreigner"-- on his way to the market.

We're here in the Kuruthang Farmer's Market, which is the farmer's market of Punakha.

>> Yeah.

>> We have cabbage, we have beans, potatoes, onions, tomatoes.

This is the part of the market where the Bhutanese go crazy.

>> Yes.

>> The chili part of the market.

Food in Bhutan can be very, very spicy.

Bhutan is a very agricultural country.

>> It's about 70% of the country is agriculturist.

>> One of the pillars of Gross National Happiness is to keep tradition and custom, and keeping that agricultural emphasis and importance in Bhutan is important, too.

>> Yes.

>> What have you got there, Karma?

What are you buying?

>> A betel nut.

>> Betel nut.

>> This is a leaf and there's a lime-- >> Lime, yes.

OK. >> And then put it-- >> Betel nut?

>> The coconut there.

>> A little lime in the coconut?

Yeah, mix it all together.

Here's the coconut.

OK. >> And eat it.

>> Eat it.

>> How we eat it.

>> You chew it.

Stick it in the side?

>> Yeah.

>> And just chew on it?

>> Chew it.

>> In 1639, the first Zhabdrung united the local tribes and created what is basically present-day Bhutan at around the same time the Punakha Dzong was being built, and for the next 300 years, this was the center of power and the capital of Bhutan.

At only 4,000 feet elevation, Punakha lies in the center of a rich, temperate, beautiful valley, and the Punakha Dzong is considered one of the most beautiful in Bhutan.

At the Punakha Dzong, Ugyen Wangchuck, the first king of Bhutan, was crowned in 1907, which makes Bhutan the youngest monarchy in the world.

A secular and religious center, the Dzong is still the residence of the Je Khenpo, the senior leader of the central monk body, and apart from in its 23 temples where no cameras are allowed in its docheys--courtyards--there are many ceremonies and festivals that you can photograph and participate in.

[Synchronized chanting] [Drums beating] [Music playing] This is a ceremony called Jinsei, and it's a ceremony for the dead.

You fill out the name of one of your beloved departed, give a little donation.

They give you a memorial Buddha thread and then they take the name, and the name is destroyed in the flames while the ceremony is going on in the honor of your special one.

Bhutan, just as prayers blow in the wind, they also rise with the smoke to the heavens.

Rather than diverting attention, the cacophonous ceremony focuses thoughts and inspires a moment of quiet remembrance.

I've traveled internationally for more than 40 years, and few places offer the opportunity for growth as Bhutan.

Traveling through this beautiful country, surrounded by prayer and the sincere, genuine, joyous Bhutanese is a singular experience.

Bhutan is not only the land of Gross National Happiness, but also a place of spiritual abundance, and what I acquire on this journey will serve me for the rest of my days.

Bhutan has made me wealthier in sprit, knowledge, and understanding.

In Part Two of my odyssey, I cross over the mountain passes into central Bhutan, where I'll continue my Bhutanese cultural adventure.

Until then, this is Joseph Rosendo reminding you of the words of Mark Twain: "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy Traveling.

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag jet lag prevention.

For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at travelscope.net.

You can also email us at TV@travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've explored the kingdom of Bhutan together, learn more at travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch.

888-876-3399 or TV@travelscope.net.

Kuku--wait.

[Women laughing] Kukuzambola?

[Thud] >> Are you OK, Tom?

[Children laughing]