>> Greece holds a very special place in my heart.

And, in fact, I spent my honeymoon there.

I like taking my students to less-traveled islands, where you can really live and eat like a local.

Today, on the island of Syros, we'll visit one of my favorite tavernas and cook with Chef Popi, who will share her secrets for making the perfect moussaka.

While it's baking, we'll explore the neoclassical city of Hermoupolis and visit the most beautiful Greek Orthodox church.

Back in my kitchen, I thought it would be fun to make a purslane-and-herb salad and a Greek-inspired dessert -- yogurt baklava with soft serve.

I love to travel the globe in search of new food and wine discoveries.

For me, it's about more than returning home with a handful of new recipes.

It's about taking the spirit of Austria... of Italy... of Greece... and of the Danube River... and injecting some of their magic into our everyday lives.

Food has a unique ability to transport us.

plates and places on our culinary journey together.

>> "Joanne Weir's Plates & Places" is brought to you by... >> With AmaWaterways, guests can climb... pedal... and journey beyond the beaten path while cruising on storied rivers across Europe.

You can find out more at amawaterways.com.

>> Our winemaking is the result of teamwork and patience.

Working together, we dedicate our best efforts with every vine, grape, and bottle.

Washington Vintners.

>> Since 1899, my family has shared our passion for everything that goes into our Mutti 100% Italian tomatoes.

Only tomatoes, only Mutti.

>> For baking, cooking, and snacks, California Figs from Valley Fig Growers.

♪ >> When I was in college, I ate moussaka for the very first time, and I thought it was so exotic.

Now I'm going to take you to the source, here on the island of Syros, in the capital city of Hermoupolis.

Well, Elias, this is kind of fun.

Here we are with your aunt.

>> Theía Popi.

>> Yes, the chef.

And she's going to teach -- Popi, right?

Popi.

>> Popi.

>> So nice.

She's going to teach everybody how to make moussaka.

Do I say it right, mou-ssaka?

>> Moussa-ka.

>> Okay.

Moussa-ka.

>> Yes.

>> Okay.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> So, how do you start?

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> She's got the bread crumbs and the olive oil.

>> Okay, olive oil first and then bread crumbs.

Okay.

Naí.

>> Naí.

>> [ Laughs ] So, naí means yes.

>> And so, what is that she's putting in there?

>> These are potatoes.

And has she already roasted these potatoes?

>> Yes.

They've been roasted.

>> And did she do those in the oven?

>> Yes.

>> Okay, so, what, she brushed them with a little bit of olive oil?

>> Yep.

>> Okay.

>> And then did them in the convection oven.

>> You can say, "Naí, naí, naí" if you want.

>> Naí, naí, naí.

[ Speaking Greek ] >> So, she's overlapping them just slightly.

>> Yep.

Nice.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> She's saying that this recipe is from my dad's mother.

>> Oh!

>> And she's really happy to share it with us today.

>> Oh, that's so great.

>> And my Theía Popi has been the chef at this restaurant for about 17 years now.

>> Wow!

>> Family operation.

>> Yes.

>> Her husband operates the restaurant with their two kids.

>> Does anybody have any questions on the potatoes?

>> I do.

>> Yes?

>> She sliced the potatoes and then, like, oven-roasted them?

>> Yes.

So, I think they probably have olive oil on each side.

>> Yep.

>> Brush them with olive oil and in the oven.

So, they're really tender already.

I mean, look.

Look.

These are -- they're soft.

The whole bottom -- wait.

Let me show.

Can you see that?

The whole bottom is completely covered with the potatoes.

>> Mm-hmm.

>> Can you see that, everybody?

>> Yeah.

>> Alright.

What I thought was interesting was when Popi put potatoes in it.

I had never seen that before.

It made a lot of sense.

It was delicious, but I had never seen that, and I always love learning those new things.

That's the great thing about travel.

Okay, next.

Is that kefalotyri?

>> Uh, yeah, grated.

>> Yes.

>> Kefalograviera.

>> Kefalograviera.

>> Okay, this is a little bit like Parmesan -- Parmigiano-Reggiano.

>> Parmigiano.

>> Yes.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Yes.

So, now she's going to take the eggplant, and the eggplant -- same thing?

>> Yep.

>> Does she roast it in the oven, brushed with olive oil?

>> Yes, exactly.

>> Just until it's really nice and soft.

Oh, I love this.

>> Did she have -- before she roasted it with the olive oil, did she have the eggplant release the water first?

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Good questions.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Very little salt.

>> Okay, very little salt.

Because the cheese, kefalotyri, is -- do I say that right?

Kefalotyri?

>> Yes.

>> So, that has a little bit of saltiness, just like Parmigiano-Reggiano.

There -- look how beautiful that looks already.

Can you see it?

>> It is beautiful.

>> Everybody?

Can you see?

Can you see?

>> Oh, yeah.

>> Alright.

Okay, now... >> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Oh.

>> Bread crumbs.

>> So, this -- bread crumbs?

She's just taking bread.

They're dry bread crumbs, and they're really fine -- and now more cheese.

So, kefalotyri's a cow's-milk cheese.

>> Yes.

>> Kefalogarviera.

>> Graviera.

>> Graviera.

>> So, like, g-r-a.

>> Right.

Oh, that looks good.

>> Yeah.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> It's got some olive oil and onion.

>> Okay.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Some garlic.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> And then cook the meat, yep.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Added salt and pepper.

>> Okay.

>> A little bit of cinnamon.

>> Oh, cinnamon?

>> Naí, yeah.

>> Okay.

And then, also tomato.

>> And tomato.

>> Yes.

>> Ntomáta, right?

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Yeah.

And then a little bit of water.

>> Okay.

>> The tomato went last.

>> Alright.

And is the meat -- is it ground beef?

>> Yes.

>> It's a lot of meat.

I don't know if you can see, that's really thick.

>> Very low heat.

>> Okay.

Yeah, so, simmer.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> The secret is very low heat.

>> Secret!

>> Very low heat and make sure you cook it all the way through.

>> Okay.

Alright.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Okay, I'm going to taste.

Mmm!

Oh, it's good.

Mmm!

You can really taste the cinnamon.

>> Really?

>> Oh, absolutely.

But it melds really well.

It melds really well with the tomato and the beef.

Mmm!

It's delicious.

It'd be good on pasta.

>> Yeah!

>> Okay, more bread crumbs.

>> More bread crumbs.

>> More bread crumbs.

>> So, is the point of the bread crumbs to absorb some moisture, so it's not so runny?

>> Let's ask her that.

>> Yeah.

[ Speaking Greek ] >> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Yes, that's exactly what it's for.

>> [ Whispering ] Good job!

>> [ Speaking Greek ] That's exactly why.

We've got -- we've got a team of chefs here.

This is awesome.

>> We do.

And more cheese.

>> [ Laughs ] >> So, this is now your third layer of cheese.

>> Melitzána.

>> Eggplant.

Now you know why you need to take that walk today.

>> [ Laughs ] >> Okay.

Now, bread crumbs again.

Just a little bit -- I mean, seriously, if it's two tablespoons -- and more cheese but not a lot.

Now, this is the béchamel.

This goes on top.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Okay.

[ Laughs ] Just pour it.

I'd be pouring it on and spreading it.

>> [ Laughing ] Just right over it.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> And she's thinking of my father's mother... >> Aw!

>> ...and how she used to make it.

That's what she's always thinking while she's doing this.

>> Wow.

That's great.

Does she mind if I do this part?

>> No!

>> Can I do this?

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> Yes.

>> And she can tell me when I'm doing something wrong.

>> Yeah.

>> Okay.

Okay.

Get it in the corners.

>> Yep, there it is -- all covered.

>> Whoops.

Oh, thank you.

That's much better.

Alright.

Almost done.

And then, I bet it's more cheese at the end.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> See?

>> Yep.

[ Laughs ] >> I wonder why you have to get to the edges.

>> [ Speaking Greek ] >> [ Speaking Greek ] >> It's going to help it form, so that when you cut it, it stays really straight.

>> Okay!

Alright.

Good?

Bread crumbs?

Just a few.

I would say it's a couple tablespoons... not a lot.

>> Almost like she's salting it with the bread crumbs.

>> Beautiful!

>> Oh.

>> What's this?

>> Twenty years Petrino is today.

It's... >> Today?

>> ...today.

>> This restaurant?

Oh!

[ Applause ] That's wonderful!

>> Oh!

[ Laughs ] >> Thank you.

>> Aw, that's so sweet.

>> Thank you.

>> Aw!

>> Eíkosi chrónia.

>> Eíkosi chrónia.

>> [ Laughs ] ♪ ♪ Elias suggested that we take a walk up to the Church of St. Nicholas, where he was an altar boy.

>> Many different paths you can take.

As long as you're going up, you'll get there.

And then, once you get there, as long as you're coming down, you'll get here.

>> [ Laughs ] >> He spent his summers here as a kid and returns annually with his parents to visit his relatives and friends.

We're so lucky to have such a knowledgeable local to show us around.

And because everyone knows everyone in this town, we're offered encouragement on the way up.

♪ Even though the streets are steep, there aren't many cars.

So, it's a meandering and peaceful journey.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Perched near the top of the city for all to see, this church has unbelievable views of the Aegean and a majestic jewel-box interior.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Now for the easy part -- it's all downhill from here, and at the end of the journey, our moussaka will be piping-hot and ready to eat.

And I'll tell you.

That hike made me a little thirsty.

I can't wait for a glass of wine.

With a scenic hike to work up an appetite, there's nothing more rewarding than returning to this gorgeous table, set under a canopy of bougainvillea to enjoy Popi's masterpiece.

Walking out of the taverna and through those beautiful streets with the trellising and the bougainvillea, it's just so beautiful there.

And then, going up into the hills, and one of the things I really loved was the Greek Orthodox church.

It was just so beautifully decorated on the inside, just every single corner.

It was just really beautiful.

I'm still struck by that.

♪ Wow!

♪ That is amazing.

Bubbling away -- yum!

>> So good!

>> [ Laughs ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Oh!

How interesting.

Oh, how beautiful is that?

That is perfection!

♪ ♪ Mm.

Mmm!

Wow.

>> So good.

>> That is so good.

That is the best moussaka I have ever had.

That is extraordinary.

Oh!

Yay!

Whoo-hoo!

Ah, thank you, thank you.

Mwah!

Thank you!

Mwah!

♪ ♪ For the purslane-and-herb salad, I thought I would start with the key ingredient, the purslane.

And a lot of people probably don't know about it, but it grows a lot in the Middle East, California.

It grows in Australia.

It's a succulent, and for some people it's a curse, because it grows just -- it's prolific.

Once you have it, you're going to have a lot of purslane.

But it makes a great salad.

What I do is just pick off the tops.

And you can also use some of the leaves if they're a little bit bigger.

But it's really wonderful in a salad.

It gives great texture.

It's used a lot in the Middle East, also.

So, if you know the salad fattoush, there's often purslane in that salad.

But this is a Greek salad and close to the Middle East, and you can see that just picking off these little tops is what you're going for.

It's got wonderful flavor.

I love it because it tastes kind of tart -- really good, great in a salad.

Alright.

So, I've got lots, there.

And then, I also want to pick some mint.

These are beautiful spearmint leaves.

Spearmint is used so much in the Mediterranean.

And it's such a wonderful herb.

But the Greeks especially love it.

And I love spearmint.

It's so wonderful.

This is another one.

Seriously -- put it in your garden, and it's going to be everywhere.

This is a great one to use to make tea.

Just some fresh spearmint, hot water -- simplest thing, and it's delicious.

And now I'm going to shave some fennel.

So, I take the whole fennel bulb.

I'm just going to leave it whole, like this, and just using a mandoline.

Just be careful with it.

You can see that I stopped because I don't -- I could go a little bit more, but you don't want to get too close to the blade.

So, just be careful when you're using a mandoline.

But they're really a great tool to shave something very thin.

I also used it to shave these radishes.

Look how beautiful.

They're just paper-thin.

It's really nice for the salad.

So, I'm putting the fennel right in the middle.

And then, finally, the last vegetable I'm going to use is I'm going to take a little bit of celery, and I'm going to cut it on the diagonal into very thin slices.

You could also use the mandoline.

You want to start your first cut like that and then once again.

Just move your first finger of your other hand down little by little and let -- use that as your guide to keep it nice and thin.

These will give nice crunch and excellent flavor.

How beautiful is this?

I've got that fresh spearmint, and I've got the purslane, radishes.

I've got a little bit of mâche, too.

I thought that would be nice.

Some whole parsley leaves -- that's what these are.

Dill, of course.

Greece, they love dill.

And then the fennel, and now we've got celery.

And now I'm making a dressing.

A little bit of garlic -- just minced garlic -- and a little bit of red-wine vinegar.

I never worry about exact amounts.

You can always fix it.

If it's a little bit too acidic, you can add more oil.

If it's too oily, add more acid.

And then salt... and a little bit of extra virgin olive oil.

This is when you want to use your best extra virgin olive oil because you're not cooking it.

You want it to be nice olive oil.

And always keep a good bottle of olive oil on your shelf for making a salad.

I'm also adding just a little bit of pepper.

I know pepper -- some pepper lovers like a lot of pepper.

Let them add it at the table.

I like to add just a little bit.

Now, the best thing to do is to taste this with just a couple of the ingredients to see how is the vinaigrette.

Otherwise, if you use a spoon, you really can't tell, because the vegetables, especially these, are so much more assertive.

So, I just make this little bunch of greens.

Mmm!

I don't think it needs anything.

And now we can just pour that right over the salad.

This salad was inspired by Jody Adams.

She's a friend of mine, wonderful chef from Boston.

And she gave me this recipe, and I think it's just a wonderful one.

The smell of all of these beautiful greens -- it's really wonderful.

And the herbs?

It's just great.

That's it.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ I really love the idea of this soft serve.

I've been wanting to make soft serve for a really long time, and then I thought, "Okay, Greece -- what can I put into it"?

You know?

Like, yes, of course, you could do chocolate chips, or you could do, you know, coconut or something else.

But I thought, "No, what comes from there is baklava."

So, I chopped it up, and then I layered the baklava with the soft serve -- baklava, soft serve.

It's really, really fun -- delicious, too.

And everybody loves soft serve.

♪ I'm ready for some salad.

This looks so good.

Mm!

I love all these herbs.

I just think it's such a great idea -- and the fennel.

Mm.

Oh, that's so good.

Mmm!

Mm.

And that vinaigrette -- it's just so simple and so delicious.

Mm.

Wow.

That brings me right back to Greece.

I love the island of Syros.

It has a rich history and beautiful architecture.

But, most of all, I especially like how the people make you feel like you're family.

When I'm there, I love sitting in the table for hours, just sharing friendship and food, and I never want to leave.

But I have to tell you a little secret.

Cooking the food from Greece brings these memories right back home.

Yamas!

>> You can visit my website to find and print selected recipes, get information about each episode, learn more about the show, see behind-the-scenes photos, provide e-mail feedback, and more.

It's all at joanneweir.com/plates-places.

>> "Joanne Weir's Plates & Places" is brought to you by... >> With AmaWaterways, guests can climb... pedal... and journey beyond the beaten path while cruising on storied rivers across Europe.

You can find out more at amawaterways.com.

>> Our winemaking is the result of teamwork and patience.

Working together, we dedicate our best efforts with every vine, grape, and bottle.

Washington Vintners.

>> Since 1899, my family has shared our passion for everything that goes into our Mutti 100% Italian tomatoes.

Only tomatoes, only Mutti.

>> For baking, cooking, and snacks, California Figs from Valley Fig Growers.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪