
Cut From a Different Cloth
9/8/2023 | 54m 22sVideo has Closed Captions
This observational film provides a rare and entertaining glimpse inside a fashion empire.
This observational film provides a rare and entertaining glimpse inside a fashion empire’s bid for global domination with a little help from a award-winning, A-list actor Idris Elba. It’s also the story of a company, Superdry, that breaks all the rules, confuses the critics, and beats the competition.
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ALL ARTS Documentary Selects is a local public television program presented by WLIW PBS

Cut From a Different Cloth
9/8/2023 | 54m 22sVideo has Closed Captions
This observational film provides a rare and entertaining glimpse inside a fashion empire’s bid for global domination with a little help from a award-winning, A-list actor Idris Elba. It’s also the story of a company, Superdry, that breaks all the rules, confuses the critics, and beats the competition.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipDunkerton: There are only a few people in the world like him -- I mean really, in the world.
It's a big decision for Idris to do this.
Elba: When it's your own name, you just feel that little bit more sort of responsible.
That'd be the weirdest thing, is seeing people running around in Idris Elba gear.
This guy, lovely guy.
Is he Idris Elba?
No.
Redmayne: Profits of £60 or 70 million, sales of half a billion pounds.
That's serious company.
Dunkerton: Entrepreneurs are different.
We -- For us, everything is life or death.
We've not nailed it.
I think we will do but we haven't.
We would like to be a lot closer than we are, at this point.
We are hellbent on landing this collection.
He hated the word "sport" on that, hated it.
Do we just start putting "IE" on everything?
I mean, nobody knows what the f * *k it is.
I mean, nobody knows what the f * *k it is.
This put a whole new thing onto our supply chain.
Ow!
You alright, man?
I f * * *ing cut my finger.
Nutter: James calls his obsession millimetre-perfect.
Yeah, he just messaged me and he wants to change everything so...
I think we do need a bit of a conversation about the Rankin shoot?
It was quite predatorial, I have to say.
Yeah, you could say that.
You want your commercial fix.
[ Laughs ] Elba: I'm supposed to be a fashion icon.
I look like an old man.
It's crunch time now.
Ow!
Ow!
Go on, get out.
We will hit November, just.
♪♪ I hope.
[ Chuckles ] ♪♪ Do you know how this happened, right?
Cheryl and I had a relationship with Superdry.
They used to send me clothes to wear if I was going out to events and whatnot.
It all just happened like that.
[Snaps fingers] There was no real plan towards it.
It's just, we met, me and Julian met, and James, and we sat and it was like, "Oh, yeah."
Told him what I liked.
He helped me, you know, pull that together.
You know, pull together a nice little range.
I was like "Yeah, why not?"
Dunkerton: The great thing is that it's a collaboration.
So not only has he got this sort of massive appeal, but actually he loves clothes.
He's really hands-on in the whole design process, which is key.
We're grafters, you know?
We don't stop.
We're like, 24/7, and James and Julian, who run and own Superdry, they're like that.
And we just thought, of all the people to collaborate with, this is the perfect partnership.
Holder: It's a big decision for Idris to do this.
You know, to go to a brand who, although we're not, is potentially perceived as a t-shirt and hoodie brand, when, you know, I'm sure he has had the designer brands knocking his door down for a few years now.
Ah, it's just going to freak me out to see the full production out there and people walking around in my clothes.
It's going to freak me out.
[ Sighs, chuckles ] ♪♪ ♪♪ So today is crucial, because we just know what we want to mass produce, to launch, and I think October or November.
So they've gone away, designed, manufactured the samples, and it's all happened within 4 months.
Cheryl has been closer to it than I have, because I'm busy at the minute, but we would like to be a lot closer than we are at this point.
We're striving for the same thing, but it feels a lot like we're sort of "We'll wait till James says it is good."
Well, I want to be a part of it and say with James "This is good" and "Is it?"
"Yeah, let's go for it."
That's a true collaboration, in my opinion.
♪♪ ♪♪ Holder: So today, there's probably about 80% of everything that we put on our list here.
Elba: Okay.
Yeah.
And you can be as in-depth as you want.
You know, if you hate something, you've got to say you hate it, because we can use that somewhere else.
Alright.
Yeah, as deep as you want to go.
Where do you want to start?
Wherever you want.
I mean, we can literally walk around the whole collection.
What about coats?
Yeah.
Let's do coats, yeah, seriously.
Good start.
We could strip this back, couldn't we?
Elba: Yeah.
This is too much.
Too much there.
These are massive.
These feel too much.
Yeah.
This detailing is sexier.
I happy with that.
It's badass.
And the fur is awful, but... Konteh: But other than that.
[ Laughs ] I'm trying -- because I like it.
I like it as part of our group.
As the principle?
The principle, yeah.
That is gorgeous.
Innit?
Look at that.
Love that.
That's really nice.
Yes.
I love the colours on the -- blue is a good colour, isn't it?
Yeah.
Holder: Idris coming in, we can elevate the fabrics that we are using.
We can use organics.
We can use pima cottons.
We can elevate the whole premium range, which is brilliant.
♪♪ ♪♪ Think the consumer would go "Yeah, organic?
I'll have a bit of that."
Do you know what I mean?
You know as well as I do, don't you?
[ Laughs ] It wasn't your idea.
I brought it up.
You did not!
I brought it up.
Ask James!
I said, "James, what about organic?"
He goes, "Yes, mate!"
No, I said to you -- No, you didn't.
I did!
Unbelievable.
Cameras come on and he's like, "You know it was my idea, you know?"
[ Laughter ] ♪♪ ♪♪ Konteh: But this is you, Idris.
This is you.
Holder: Is it me?
Come on, Jules.
We don't know.
[ Laughter ] He used to try everything on for fit, you know?
"Julian, with all due respect, you're not Idris Elba, are you?
And why are we trying this on you for fit?"
Because it's the way -- I know it's right, matey.
I know it's the right thing to wear."
Jules, Jim, Idris, Cheryl, all with very strong personalities and definite ideas, all coming together to create this range.
I don't know how, 'cause they've all got such strong personalities.
[ Indistinct chatter ] Just wanted to say thank you and well done.
Happy?
Very.
Very.
Then we're good.
Alright, that's it, then.
[Clicks tongue] ♪♪ Cheryl is my eyes and ears because, you know, I have a busy life, and so having the time to sit in all the design meetings is impossible.
But Cheryl and I are on the same page, have been for years she's been dressing me, about what we think will work.
When you're styling Idris, Idris really loves to get involved.
He loves clothes.
He is really into the detail.
♪♪ When we first thought of this whole thing, it had to be as seen on Idris.
And that is -- If Idris doesn't wear it, then why are we doing it, kind of thing?
Holder: Yeah, absolutely.
And there are some bits in the collection that have to be really commercial, and you guys know that better than us.
Yeah, absolutely.
However, I mean, would Idris ever wear a blue t-shirt with his name on it at the bottom?
Never in a million years.
We just got to be careful, guys.
People are buying these 'cause it is an Idris Elba product.
So let's definitely strip bits off.
Do we just start putting "IE" on everything?
I mean, nobody knows what the f * *k it is.
We are criticized sometimes for being too overt, but you know, I think it's hard because we're so well-known for our overt t-shirts and graphic hoodies.
Cheryl: Did you like the "sport"?
Because he hated the word "sport" in that.
He hated it.
I mean it was a real point like, no "sport."
Dunkerton: I think we have to ask him whether we can have, out of the range, one of them has "sport" on it, because that makes sense with the range, with the product.
He is a retailer.
He is a rag trader, you know?
I'm a designer and he's a rag trader, and that's why we work so well.
So he will say, "Jim, this is going to be absolutely massive.
We need this in the line."
Just need that little -- You want your commercial fix.
[ Laughs ] Yes, you do.
That's what you want.
It broadens the customer base.
You want your commercial fix.
I'll do the kind of crazy stuff which defines Superdry as a brand and Julian will make the products which absolutely blow the tills out of the water.
He was the first person to really understand that the consumer wanted heavily branded goods.
And the moment I saw the industry change, I realised that I needed James to work with me to create the next part of what was going to happen in the industry.
James -- very talented, young guy, no money, fresh out of -- just sort of fresh on the street, wanted to do a skatewear brand.
I went straight from art college into setting up Bench.
Unfortunately, he didn't have -- as far as I can understand -- any rights to that brand.
The chap who had the rights to it was hanging on to the rights, and the chap who'd put all the designs in and all the knowledge and the look and perfected it was sort of out on his ear.
He was completely different to anybody I'd ever met in the industry.
There was a unique talent, a unique skill.
And it took somebody like Julian to spot that talent and think, "Hang on, I think we can put this to use.
I think I can pick him up, dust him down, and we can really make something of this."
They called it Superdry.
If you were ever going to have two people together, I don't think you could ever get a better two than James and I, our skills are so perfectly matched.
They're like a pair of bickering old ladies actually, sometimes, but, you know, it works.
If it's in this range, I can do it but outside of this range, I can't.
We absolutely need that.
No, no I get it.
Yves Saint Laurent, Dior... No, I absolutely get it.
And also, is the fabric quality right, the one we've got?
I don't know.
I wouldn't get it.
Yeah, I'm not sure it is.
I mean, I don't want to say I love him, but I love him... as a business partner.
Hello.
♪♪ The reality is that the world is shrinking.
It's a global market, and the competition has never been weaker.
So actually, the opportunity at this second is greater than it has ever been.
I would joke that he was going to take over the world, a genuine joke, sarcastic, call it what you want, and I would say it quite often to him.
And they literally are taking over the world now.
Holder: From that little office under the stairs, it quickly grew, and now we've got thousands of employees around the world, so it's a pretty amazing story.
Started from humble beginnings, built up a business, lo and behold, turned it into a world-scale business.
Profits of £60 or £70 million, sales of half a billion pounds.
That's a serious company, serious company.
Traditionally, America is a graveyard for UK retailers, and everyone who's tried, it's been a disaster.
I want to be in this mall, full stop.
People will go, "Wow, Superdry, brilliant."
But I need the footfall.
When I met him, a week would basically be deal, deal, deal, more deal.
Then it would be a case of, after work, every day, go to The Retreat for a good few pints and then a bit of food before bed, and get up the next day and do more deals, deals, deals.
Let's time a minute outside this door, okay?
Starting now.
Okay, 4, 3 of which are kids, but we'll let them off.
If you were just to meet somebody from, you know, Cheltenham -- it's in the Cotswolds, it's not London, what would he know?
Then he turns up in his scruffy ripped jeans and a battered old blazer, you'd think, "Oh, come on, really?"
There's an element of risk in my heart.
I go, "Okay, I'll do what I do, you do what you do, and lets share the upside."
He's actually a brilliant negotiator on leases for property.
You know, he's the real world's greatest expert on getting the retailer looking right.
It is all about footfall.
So the site upstairs is a beautiful store, but the sort of customer that's going there is going there to spend $1,000.
That means there aren't many customers.
This should be, and will be, 1,000 times better than the previous site.
Now, a landlord will always try and sell you the one that they want to get rid of, but the clever boy works out where the real money is going to be made.
Balls of steel.
Absolutely.
If he liked something, "There are the numbers, I want it."
Soosalu: He's got a boat, Pocket Change which he imported from America about 15 years ago, which is moored up in Dukesberry because there is no fishing regulations in the harbour, so he can fish when he wants.
I've never been, because I can't think of anything worse.
♪♪ I knew they'd start biting at some point in the evening.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ I think Superdry is from Tokyo in Japan.
♪♪ I'd say Japan.
Japan?
It's got it written on it.
Well, obviously the preconception of Superdry is that it is a Japanese brand.
But that's, um...
I don't mind that kind of slight mysticism surrounding it.
When they started, Jules and James, they went to Tokyo.
Everyone knows Tokyo is cool, Japan is cool, and then the American collegiate kind of fit with it.
Came up with a name, Japanese writing.
Everyone thought we were a Japanese company, which is, you know, thinks you're cool.
No, we're in these sheds in Cheltenham still.
You know, it's 500-600 people in one street.
♪♪ ♪♪ Well, ideally, we've got a couple of hours to do this, so hopefully we make some magic, I think.
Working quite closely with the in-house Superdry team, it's good.
It's very different, because I am used to, as a stylist, going in and working with different teams.
♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪ ♪♪ Elba: It's quite sense of, like, responsibility of getting it right, you know, when it's your own name and you just feel that little bit more sort of responsible for making sure the pictures are great.
If the camera sees me, like, actually me, then we're winning.
I think it is exciting to me in the moment.
I can't see what is going on at the actual time, because obviously I'm popping the shots off, but hearing everyone sort of going "Yes, yes, yes!"
in the background is a very, very exciting moment, I think.
[Quietly] So I want to catch him, because that is it... Elba: You take your time, man.
[ Laughter ] No, no no.
You were in a very good zone then, actually.
♪♪ Okay, so first hit, is that fine?
He looks amazing.
Yeah, absolutely.
I loved him in this.
It was an easy, easy hit for him.
He just looked proper cool for it.
Yeah, he looks amazing.
Next one.
That one.
Yeah, love that.
To have an in-house photographer is fantastic, but I also think it's great to expand and work with other visionary people.
You know, other photographers, other stylists, other everything.
I think we do need a bit of a conversation between you, Julian, about the Rankin shoot?
Elba: Yeah, yeah.
We've got that pencilled in.
I am very happy with what I've done.
I'm very happy that I've had the opportunity to shoot Idris.
It's been a great experience and he's a great guy to work with, as we know, and got great pictures.
Cheryl: The great thing about working with somebody like Rankin, he's one of the best photographers in the world, effortlessly cool.
Who's to know, the boys might see the pictures and go, "Actually, do we need to shoot with Rankin?
I don't know."
But hey, that's another story.
♪♪ ♪♪ Dunkerton: This is actually the original Cult store.
Cult was how I started in clothing, really.
When I arrived in Cheltenham, I was in a market stall for a couple of years, and then I took over this premises.
Barker: Yeah, the reputation was that Julian Dunkerton was a good retailer, a solid retailer making good choices time after time.
From here, we went to Oxford.
From Oxford we went to Birmingham.
From Birmingham, we went to Cambridge.
There were certain people you could really do without turning up on your patch.
Then I think it was Edinburgh, then Norwich, then Glasgow.
They took a look around Cardiff and they chose to go elsewhere.
So yeah, lovely.
Thank God.
We traded on nicely for years, and he continued to grow.
Julian: £20 million a year we were sort of turning over as Cult, and that was how Superdry was born, within that environment.
When Superdry started, I remember him, we used to go to London or wherever, a train station, and go, "Oh, look!
One Superdry t-shirt.
Ooh, another."
And at first, it was really exciting because you never see anyone wearing the brand.
Bit boring now in Cheltenham.
You can't play that game.
♪♪ ♪♪ Konteh: We're going to choose our models for our show, so it's really exciting.
We've got loads of models coming, and it's really important that we get the right kind of model.
We don't want a load of pretty boys, we want it to be quite diverse.
If you're going to have models in campaigns and all that, they should look like the intended buyer.
♪♪ ♪♪ Cool, so I thought, bring them in here.
If we like them, get them to try some product on, send them out for a photo, but no point in photographing if we're not feeling it.
No.
Hey!
Hello, you alright?
Hi, yeah I'm great.
my name is Chuck.
How you doing?
Hi, Chuck.
Great eyes, Chuck.
Yes, gorgeous!
Really nice.
How old are you, Chuck?
I'm 21.
Wow, baby.
Yeah, look at that face.
But he looks so young.
Woman: Thank you very much.
Hiya.
Model: Right, thank you guys.
Nice to meet you.
Have a good day.
Nice meeting you.
Thank you.
♪♪ I like him.
Brilliant, brilliant shape, but yeah, he's 23.
Idris is 40.
We can't then have too many teeny boppers.
Yeah, no, no.
I agree.
It depends...
He's gorgeous.
There's nothing wrong with him and in real life, he's even better, but is he Idris Elba?
No.
No.
This guy, lovely guy.
Is he Idris Elba?
No.
♪♪ Never, ever, ever.
He'd never.
I love that!
No!
That's not Idris.
Cheryl at her finest.
How old are you?
I'm 27, actually.
Wow.
You've got a good look.
Thank you.
I really appreciate that.
Yeah, really good look.
Proper bloke.
I like him a lot.
Konteh: No, too thin.
I agree.
I do agree.
Too young, too thin.
I agree.
If you you've got him, you don't need him, okay?
Yeah, I do agree with that.
Definitely Danny.
I really like Dom.
I loved him, loved his look.
Thank you guys, bye.
See you later, take care.
Bye-bye.
Bye.
Great-looking guy, but just not right, I don't think.
No.
♪♪ Anna does this for Superdry all the time and she is brilliant at it, but it's all the same type of person and this is slightly different so, you know, it's part of Anna, that she's out of her comfort zone.
Do you know any other agencies that have older guys?
Are there any specific ones?
We've not nailed it.
I think we will do, but we haven't.
I'm not very good with, like, characters.
Do you know what I mean?
♪♪ Hi, Mark.
It's Beck from Superdry.
Idris has rung and asked if we could see more guys ranged like, 28 to late thirties?
I was wondering if you could send a package over of guys that are probably aged 28 upwards?
♪♪ ♪♪ We will hit November, just.
I hope.
[ Car horn honks ] ♪♪ Yes, there's a lot of pressure attached to this project.
It's a big project and a very exciting project.
Our normal obsessions heightened in this instance with, you know, James wants us to be out here on the pulse, making sure it is all going exactly right.
♪♪ ♪♪ Wow, look at this.
Whoa.
That's unbelievable.
Great design.
Jamie: It's absolutely beautiful, but I think we need to try and improve it.
Salih: Yeah, yeah, we'll try and improve it.
Yeah.
Yeah.
I think James would really like these.
Well, let's hope so.
James calls his obsession millimetre-perfect, so the way he talks to suppliers and to designers is that the garments have to be millimetre-perfect.
Oh, James loves clothes.
He's a designer.
I mean he is the best designer I've ever met in my life, I mean, by a million miles.
We're using super heavyweight flight fabrics on the outside, fully jacquard tweed on the inside.
You know, super weighted zips, blah, blah, blah.
And like heavy ribs, to make it look so perfect with all those super high quality, premium materials is a really hard thing to do.
We would not be where we are without James.
James is, in essence, the brand.
He breathes it, he lives it.
Jamie: Yeah, he just messaged me and he wants to change everything, so I got work to do.
But it's alright.
We'll work it out.
He wants to inject the funk, but I think it's already pretty funky.
But I'm going to look through it all again, just to make sure it's all okay.
I'm struggling to know how to change it, so I got to really think about that.
♪♪ James is a perfectionist, so he always sees new things and new developments, and so it is not a surprise.
We always made this.
Jamie: When the changes are made, it is really hard to sort of pass that information on, because they've put all that effort in and investment, and then that same effort and investment needs to go in again.
Nutter: The way James works is relentless, and he will jump from one thing to another in a heartbeat.
Keeping up with him is demanding, let alone trying to get him to work to a schedule is impossible.
You know, he'll be in the showroom till 10:00 at night on his own, with all his product all over the place, with his hand scribbles everywhere, his magazine tears.
He's just in the zone.
And you come in the next morning -- I'm always in really early, and you think "What the hell has happened here?"
James is something else.
He's -- He's -- Yeah, he's unique.
Holder: When an idea strikes you and you know it is right, it doesn't matter where you are.
So it could be in the middle of the night.
A lot of the time it is after, either during training or after training or after some sort of crazy f * * *ing run, running through the desert somewhere or something, and an idea will come into your head and it's like, "What?
Where is the first piece of paper that I can draw this down on?"
So it would be anything, it'd be a packet of Nurofen, you're ripping it open just to get to the cardboard, and you're scribbling away.
Laura: I've seen him going for a run along an Istanbul, crazy, traffic-filled street, or it could be getting chased by a monkey in Delhi.
I kid you not.
You'll see him running in India.
You'll see him running in Hong Kong.
He won't be at a gym.
It'll be running in the streets.
Those guys in the factories are absolutely as skilled as what I can put into this process.
The way that they can take what I'm explaining, expressing and sketching, and put it into garment form so quickly, it would just absolutely blow you away.
I would love to have a "point of no return" date, where we say to James and Julian, "Stop, you can't make any more changes."
James will tweak it and keep tweaking it until the last day he can.
We are hellbent on landing this collection for the 26th of November.
♪♪ ♪♪ To me, Rankin is one of the best British photographers of our decade.
Meigh: Having seen his book and his work, obviously, it's outstanding photography, and the people he has photographed -- you only have to look through his book to see, you know, some of the most famous names, current names you can see.
Idris is one of our, like -- he is a fantastic actor.
He is one of our best actors, so it is a perfect marriage.
With a brand like Superdry, to persuade the owners that they need to work with a famous photographer, it's always going to be challenge, but I think it will bring something else to the table that we haven't had before.
Meigh: It's very easy for other photographers and other people to run away with a brand, and I think they've got to be really careful, because he has a certain style, and whether or not that will be right... Clearly, we will want him to do his thing, but I think supporting that by steering it will make a little bit of sense for us.
How are you doing?
You alright?
Good to see you.
How are you feeling?
Alright.
Good, good.
Yeah?
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Jimmy couldn't do this.
He couldn't do this.
He doesn't get the skin tone right.
He doesn't have as many -- I don't know.
And don't forget, this is without any retouch or anything.
And Jimmy sends it to a top retoucher.
It looks nice but... Yeah.
It's really lovely.
I love that one.
That's good.
Oh, that's so cool.
That's going to be great for your magazine, but you know what James and Julian will want.
Okay, so shall we do a few more?
Just because we are in the zone.
♪♪ I'm not really the Superdry demographic.
You know, I'm like, late '40s and I'm a bit more simple.
Yeah, that's not right for me.
Our range, there's lots of huge coats and he put them, on which was hysterical.
He's good-looking, Rankin.
[ Laughter ] But when we did find stuff that did look good on him, it looked brilliant on him, and he wanted it.
Yeah, that's gorgeous.
I think this is you.
Yeah, that's gorgeous.
[ Cheers and applause ] Thank you, everyone, for your hard work.
Thank you so much.
We're proud of this campaign.
Thank you.
♪♪ Jimmee: In such a sort of short moment with Idris, I think some of those images we did get were absolutely sort of iconic.
Pow!
The one which, funnily enough, Idris didn't like so much, which we all just fell over for, where he was flicking his jacket and you could just see the most amazing lining in the jacket and him looking down, I think was probably, I have to say, a pretty powerful shot.
Looking through the images here from what Rankin just sent over just now, I think these are very typical Rankin shots, as I would have expected to see, in all fairness.
I think there's definitely a trademark of Idris.
I think I've seen that three times, a shot of him doing that same pose.
That's very nice.
It sort of almost feels like they're just more picture from what we took.
Pearce: James and Julian have gone through the shots.
We had two lots to choose from.
We had the great shots that Jimmee had done, which were full of energy and very, very Superdry, and then we also had the Rankin shots which were slightly different.
We're all really, really thrilled with the results that have come back.
We all really liked the style and the work that Rankin's done and we're really excited.
Everybody's favourite -- everybody's favourite from the three is this one of Idris, because we think he looks incredible.
What are we buying into?
Are we buying into the celebrity photographer for the reason of, obviously, how that will be received by, say, the press, for example?
Is that going to get you your front covers because of the name?
I think to Joe Bobs and probably a lot of the people who are going to buy this product, they wouldn't know the difference between my name and Rankin's name.
Nutter: Talking honestly, I think it has been difficult, the Idris collaboration because, you know, for the first time, it's almost like another person in the Julian and James relationship, isn't it?
♪♪ When I was growing up, you know, as a kid, considered as one of the best fighters.
When we first met, round about that time, the Band Aid record was quite big, I think, "Feed the World," and I started singing it because he was a skinny, tall, black guy.
And I started singing it and he took a bit of an offence to it, so he kind of like, clubbed me one.
If you was the best fighter, like, all the other schools would know about you and, you know, you'd show up at their school and all that, and the fashion was a big deal.
Them times was like Capa, Adidas, maybe Sergio Tacchini.
Yeah, Sergio Tacchini.
Fred Perry, which if I remember rightly, Idris never had none of them.
Nah, I'm only joking.
If you had the freshie trainers, you were the man.
♪♪ When I was younger, I was definitely a hustler.
♪♪ I was definitely entrepreneurial.
♪♪ Yeah, I really came from a working class family, didn't have that much money.
My parents, you know -- and I had big ambitions and expensive taste, so I had to work.
Dunkerton: Not only has he got this sort of massive appeal, but actually, he loves clothes.
He's loved the whole design process.
He's really hands-on, which is key.
Rankin: I think he looks brilliant in them, 'cause they're made for him, you know?
So if he didn't look good in them, I'd be worried for Superdry.
I would, like, be worried for their lives.
I wouldn't say "control freak," but it has got to be his way or the highway.
♪♪ ♪♪ Idris: Looking at our whole line, why we don't have that up there, I don't know.
Really good.
That's a definite look.
I'd wear that jacket.
Ow!
You alright, mate?
F * * *ing cut my finger.
Nah, I don't think we're there with the beanies yet.
That's a beanie.
Woman: Yeah.
Yeah.
Fine, fine, fine.
Boogie: He can't get rid of that beanie.
Everywhere I see, I see that beanie.
Yeah.
I want to take it and put it in my washing machine, really.
Do you know what might actually be nice under there?
It's our hooded...?
Cashmere?
Yeah.
Oh, nice.
I would wear that.
Shebang.
I say the word "shebang" more times in one day then anybody else I know.
I heard Ray Wilson say "bosh wallop shebang," and I've probably nicked the "shebang" part and ran with it.
Shebang!
Shebang!
Shebang!
So now everything is... "Leading Man Leather."
See that?
Shebang.
♪♪ Nutter: Idris is flying over from his film set to be with us for literally, like, 6 hours, because that's the last chance that he can really have input into making any design changes or fit changes.
Elba: In principle, all the clothes are great -- the hoodies, everything is gorgeous, but just how they fit and sit on me, that would be another day of tweaking.
The suppliers want to start making things on their production lines in the next few weeks, so yes, we can make sensible changes, but big changes might cause a problem.
That tweak will then become what is definitely an Idris cut.
You know what I mean?
And I don't have that yet.
♪♪ ♪♪ Konteh: Oh, my god.
You're all living it large in Cheltenham, aren't you?
♪♪ ♪♪ Dunkerton: Hello, mate.
Hi, man.
You alright?
How are you?
Look at you, skin and bone.
Where's it all gone?
Huh?
Just working.
I've got such a bad pain.
I smashed my neck.
I've got a lot of pain at the moment, can hardly turn.
But you're trying everything on.
You know that?
No, not trying anything on.
[ Laughs ] Hi, everyone.
You alright?
So what's the agenda?
So we've got the two models and then we're going to get all the clothes out and go through every single piece of every outfit and see the fit.
They are not all in our colours but -- Right, yeah, yeah.
Of course.
Do you need painkillers or something?
I've got some.
I'm fine, thank you.
You get to sort of, kiss it with your personal thing, my personal thing.
I've got a thing about buttons and cuffs and all that, so the fact that I got the chance to do this now is perfect.
Super important.
Do you know what I'd like, if we could, is -- I don't like the blue writing on the black buttons.
I'd rather have black on black.
Man: Black on black.
And then the black shebang.
I'm happy with the black on black.
Yeah?
Yeah, yeah.
All I can see is the zipper.
It takes away from the jacket a bit.
But this one, this is tidy, sexy, it's not massive.
Yeah, yeah.
Cheryl: You like that?
Yeah, take the zip down.
I'm happy with that.
Yeah.
Yeah, cool.
Shebang.
Yeah, it's nice.
[ Laughter ] This just happened two days ago.
I don't know what's happened.
I really don't know.
I just woke up in the morning and I couldn't move.
I feel like I slept on it badly.
Nutter: So I've got a difficult conversation with Julian, which is asking him to broach the subject of the underwear packaging shot with Idris, and asking Idris if he will model the underwear for the packaging.
Every time I think about it, I feel sick.
I've put aside a room and set up a little mini studio to just whisk him upstairs and make it as easy as possible.
For him, it'll be one of the biggest grossing products.
Nutter: Okay, great.
Thanks Julian.
So hopefully, he'll feel much more relaxed.
He will.
Elba: I'm in absolute agony and this morning.
I just, I literally cannot move.
I can't even -- When I look up, I can't look up.
If you were to come here, we could pause the meeting for about half an hour, 45 minutes, perhaps?
I'm Idris, what's your name?
Carl.
Brilliant, Carl.
I'll see you in a little bit.
Look at the state of that.
I'm supposed to be a fashion icon.
I look like an old man.
I need Julian to be brave on that one.
Carl: I'm not going to be kind to you.
This is going to crack hard.
You ready?
Yeah.
Ow!
[ Cracks ] Sorry, fella.
Try and breathe.
Ow.
Front door.
Front door?
Other side.
You said not to swear.
Well, somebody had said he'd finished, so I went up there, and he blatantly hadn't finished and that really wasn't the moment.
I felt a bit uncomfortable walking in on him.
Can I ask a supremely large favour?
Five minutes of underwear shooting?
No.
It's crunch time now.
Ow!
Ah... Get out.
Go on, get out.
Oh, f * *k. So yeah, maybe I'll pick my timing a bit better next time.
You never know.
Well done, everyone.
Really good.
[ Beeping ] Yeah, he's only got one phone, 6310i.
Very hard to source, I can tell you, and even harder to back up on a computer.
Barker: I had one, everybody had one.
When the new one came out, I got the new one, everybody else got the new one.
And then when the iPhone came out or Blackberry came out, people got those.
Julian however, still has... the brick.
It does everything he wants to do.
It texts and makes calls.
He's not interested in emails, he's not interested in cameras or anything else.
[ Cellphone rings ] Hello?
Speaking.
Barker: He loves the brick.
He walks around with the brick.
It's slower than a tortoise.
He knows how it works, you see?
He can't work a computer, doesn't know how to work a computer, doesn't want to know how to work a computer, and does not want to learn how to work a different telephone.
Golf Sierra Delta Romeo Yankee, you ready for clearance?
Contract is clear for level 1-2-0.
Thank you.
♪♪ The beauty of him having the jet is, from a work point of view, he can do a European tour in a day.
He can fly to Germany, Italy and Spain, and back to his doorstep, be home after landing within 15 minutes with his favourite cup of coffee and Cornish pasty.
Dunkerton: Oh, look, another pasty.
Fucking hell.
What are you trying to do, kill me?
Golf Sierra Delta Romeo Yankee, clear.
Gloucestershire Airport to Cologne.
I went to New York with him, and there he is with his six newspapers ready for the flight, and like a homeless person, as he reads them, he stuffs them down the side of himself, and by the end of the flight, he has insulated himself with all these newspapers.
He gets up and there's this air stewardess is just looking at him.
He's, you know, his jeans are hanging out of his a * *, he's got his f * * ready rolled to get off the plane and have one, and there's like, a body shape of Jules in newspaper.
It's incredible.
Quarter past 11 in Germany.
The day hasn't event started.
It's a weekday.
Look how busy it is.
This is the heart of Cologne.
So this wasn't officially on the market, but everyone kind of knew that this company was in trouble, and I spotted that they were in trouble, I think, about 3 or 4 years ago.
When you're in a position of strength and your target is limping, then that's probably the time to pounce.
It was quite predatorial, I have to say.
Yeah, you could say that.
Right, we've got to go to Barcelona now.
Well, that's the sign of a true entrepreneur, isn't it?
Somebody who is ready to take risks, calculated risks, but then absolutely stand by his decision.
Dunkerton: We're not coming in as some two-bit Brits who don't know what the f * *k they're doing.
We want those kind of deals and we want to be treated with that sort of thought process.
When he looks at you, he is looking into your soul.
He wants to know, are you genuine, is what you've got what you say it is?
We like this a lot, put a facade.
Obviously, it's not a... Yeah, I know, but what's it good for?
What's the quoted rent?
He's got an offer now for £1.1 and he's asking for £1.2 million.
I mean, I love the front, but that's all I love about it.
I said you'd get a quick response.
Very quick.
I don't want to waste your time.
Cheers, mate.
Agents have turned up for what they probably expected was an hour's meeting, little bit of lunch trying to smooth Julian.
In 30 seconds, they got the answer they didn't want.
Doesn't take no prisoners.
Dunkerton: Just don't treat us like we're going to take some s * * * *y property, do a landlord deal and overpay for it.
The thought just made me cross.
Entrepreneurs are different.
For us, everything is life or death.
I've always said it's like being in a cage with a tiger.
You go to an appointment, you walk into the office and you think "Oh, here we go.
Am I gonna come out alive?"
When I walk into a store and it is not right, for me, that's like, the end of my world at that moment, so I have to rectify it, I have to get it right.
It's a personal pride, it's a personal -- you know, it literally is life or death.
♪♪ ♪♪ Barker: So there's a table going here?
Man: Well, that's what was in your plan, wasn't it?
It doesn't have to be, though.
Well, shall we put it there and see?
Let's put it there.
We take the back off.
Our relationship has evolved over the years from being potential competitors to sort of wheeler-dealers with each other and now has evolved into, yeah, shop fits on a global scale.
Julian has knack, a way, of getting people he wants to work on projects that he wants, and the right people in the right place.
And back in the day when I was very independent, "let's do my own thing," he always used to say that, "We'll be doing something one day, matey."
And sure enough, comes full circle.
Just like he knew James would be the right person to do Superdry and create that lovely product, he sort of said, "Look, I love what you do with your coffee bars.
Can we bring some of that to the next generation of stores?"
And here I am.
♪♪ The level of detail is really important.
This is a series of photographs by Rankin of Idris, and what we've done is put them in a really eclectic series of vintage frames.
The staff have already been sort of Instagramming themselves with them.
So yeah, little details.
So we've come a long way from one small store in Cheltenham crammed with product floor-to-ceiling.
[ Laughter ] Very true.
To a massive store in London.
But at the heart of it you've got Julian signing off every detail, demanding every detail, and making sure I'm up a ladder with a rubber glove on, getting the last touches dead right.
Dunkerton: Come on.
Ah, that's a much better colour.
Much moodier, much better.
It's sharp, very sharp.
I'm overjoyed.
Relieved, "relieved" is the word.
It is a relief.
I'm not going to lie.
Whew.
The tension levels have gone down a little bit now.
So, yeah, it's a bit better.
Good.
It's looking good.
Everybody loves it, thank God.
♪♪ Elba: Well, this is it, man.
This is D-Day, launch day, IE day.
Super excited.
Nervous a little bit.
Not sure how people are going to actually take it, but we're really proud of the product.
I sound like Julian now.
He says that all the time.
"It's a smashing product."
There are only a few people in the world like him, I mean, really, in the world, who capture that space.
♪♪ Hello!
[ Camera shutters click ] Some people have just got it and some people -- well, most of us mere mortals haven't.
But yeah, he's got that magic and the fact that he's British, you know, British and with us is just -- I think it is amazing.
♪♪ Boogie: He's always thinking about doing something else, thinking about how to make, you know, make money.
Doing something different, bringing something more to the table.
♪♪ From the bottom of my heart, we're very proud of the collection and, you know, it isn't one of these just fancy endorsements.
I really do love fashion.
I'm not a fashion designer, but I think I'm an influence.
[ Beeping in background ] Someone's stolen something already, let's get them.
[ Laughter ] But I do consider myself an influence in that sense, so you guys supporting that is taking this dream further and further, and I appreciate you being here.
You stood outside and that's massive, and I love that.
So am I allowed to unleash them into the room?
Is that true?
Alright, so thanks for coming, guys, and make your way that way.
There you go.
Thank you for coming.
[ Cheering ] ♪♪ There's a bomber jacket over there.
Now, I love that bomber jacket, because it's reversible.
Man: Yeah.
So you can get two prizes for one.
My God.
It's the gift that keeps on giving.
That's a gift that keeps on giving.
That's a good coat, because all men like a bomber jacket.
There's a couple of lovely cardigans over there, and then of course, the t-shirts are just really nice fit.
This is a lovely -- Oh, I mean, I'm selling it now, but you know.
You get the picture.
You're selling it.
It's like being on QVC with you.
[ Laughs ] Maybe that'll be your backup career if it goes wrong.
If it all goes wrong, that's what I'll do.
♪♪ Superdry have really made this, you know, they've gone for it this time.
They've gone really glitzy and a bit more, you know, showy than they ever really have, which is all making everyone nervous, a little bit, I suspect, but it's good, it's all good.
It's me, baby.
This is how we do it.
24-hour business.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ The way the whole collection was put together last minute and pulled off is incredible.
We're quite a last-minute company in the fact that when we design, it's always pushing it right to the edge of time so we get exactly what we want at the right time.
But this put a whole new thing onto our supply chain.
Elba: I think over the years, as we move forward, I'm going to be certainly making more time to be in the design process.
I want to learn, you know, from James and those guys, but I also want to be able to be influential in the whole process.
I think that the the of them together are brilliant, and they all bring something totally different to the table.
It's a bit like The Three Tenors, actually.
They all bring a different note.
♪♪ James is unique.
He will talk 100 miles an hour.
At first, it's like a mish-mash.
It's like somebody mixing a record, pulling it all together.
You've got a bit of Vivaldi and you've got a bit of hip-hop and you've got a bit of everything there, and it's all mixed in the pot, and you're thinking, "Oh, my God.
What is this guy about?"
And then when you hear the record, you go, "Ah, I get it."
Cheryl has been the linchpin between the whole lot, I would say, making sure everyone is happy, making sure Idris is comfortable with the feel, the look, the taste level, everything else -- Jim with the design level, feeding into him ideas constantly, feeding into Jules about retail, about the vision, and just amalgamating them all into one little team.
This is something that me and Idris are so passionate about, and to see it actually in store is a big day.
It's a big, huge thing in my career, and it's something that I'll never, ever forget.
♪♪ This, hopefully, is going to be a forever deal.
I'm a bit of a "forever" person, so I'm kind of loyal by nature, and if you make something work and build it and build it together, then yeah, absolutely, this is, for me, there's no end to it.
Whatever we do, we just immerse ourselves a million percent.
And even when we started Superdry and we only had five t-shirts and five polo shirts, we still came across as if we were a global brand.
Redmayne: And they're having a serious look at China.
Unbelievable.
There are 1.1, 1.2 billion people in China.
Huge market.
You never get to perfection.
That's the great thing about the whole journey, so you never stop.
You always can be better, better, better, better, better.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪
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