♪ >> Eliza: DEAR ALBANIA.

I'M ELIZA DUSHKU, AN ALBANIAN-DANISH AMERICAN FROM BOSTON.

I'VE ALWAYS BEEN CURIOUS ABOUT YOU AND FASCINATED BY YOUR MYSTERY.

MY GRANDPARENTS IMMIGRATED TO AMERICA BY BOAT IN THE 1930s.

I NEVER KNEW THESE GRANDPARENTS.

THEY PASSED AWAY BEFORE I WAS BORN.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: I NEVER HAD STRONG FEELINGS OF ATTACHMENT TO YOU... UNTIL NOW.

♪ GROWING UP, I WASN'T THE ONLY ONE WHO DIDN'T KNOW VERY MUCH ABOUT THIS ONCE SECLUDED COUNTRY.

BEFORE ITS COMMUNIST GOVERNMENT FELL IN 1991, ALBANIA WAS ARGUABLY THE MOST ISOLATED COUNTRY IN EUROPE.

NOW THE BORDERS ARE OPEN, AND THE PEOPLE ARE EAGER TO WELCOME THOSE WHO, FOR SO LONG, WERE STRANGERS.

THOUGH ONLY AN HOUR BY PLANE FROM ITALY AND GREECE, MUCH OF ALBANIA REMAINS VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED BY THE MASSES.

FROM THE SAPPHIRE BEACHES OF THE IONIAN COAST, AND THE ANCIENT SETTLEMENTS OF APOLLONIA, BERAT, AND BUTRINT, TO THE ENERGETIC CAPITAL CITY, TIRANA, ALBANIA OFFERS A LOT FOR THE CURIOUS TRAVELER.

OFF THE GRID, THE ALBANIAN ALPS PRESERVE THE FIERCELY INDEPENDENT SPIRIT OF THE MOUNTAINS.

IT'S A PLACE WITH CONTROVERSIAL STORIES OF VIGILANTE JUSTICE, BUT ALSO WHERE VILLAGERS WARMLY INVITE TRAVELERS INTO THEIR HOMES.

♪ >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: IT'S A VISIT FROM A MAN NAMED FADIL BERISHA THAT INSPIRES MY ALBANIAN PILGRIMAGE.

FADIL IS NOT ONLY A SUCCESSFUL PHOTOGRAPHER, HE IS ALSO THE ULTIMATE ALBANIAN AMBASSADOR, UNITING ARTISTS, SINGERS, AND TALENTS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD WHO SHARE ALBANIAN HERITAGE, URGING US TO DISCOVER OUR ROOTS.

FADIL TOLD ME THE LAND OF MY GRANDPARENTS WAS CALLING FOR ME AND ALSO THAT ALBANIANS CONSIDERED ME SOMETHING OF A HOMETOWN HERO, ALONG WITH THE LIKES OF JIM BELUSHI, AND MOTHER TERESA.

IT WAS TIME FOR ME TO DIG DEEPER INTO MY PAST.

SO I GATHER MY BOYS, INCLUDING MY BROTHER, NATE... >> IT DOESN'T GET BETTER THAN THIS.

I'M SERIOUS.

>> Eliza: ...AND MY FRIENDS, RICK... >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> YEAH.

SAY IT WITH A LITTLE FLAIR -- [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> MORE EUROPEAN.

NICE.

>> Eliza: ...BLERIM... >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

>> I LOVE ALBANIA.

>> AH.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: ...AND FADIL.

AND WE SET OUT TO CANVASS THE COUNTRY FROM THE COASTLINES THE PEOPLE AND TO EXPLORE THIS JEWEL OF THE BALKANS.

WE'RE VISITING 15 ALBANIAN CITIES IN FOUR DIFFERENT COUNTRIES.

FIRST STOP -- TIRANA, THE CAPITAL OF ALBANIA, HOME TO SKANDERBEG SQUARE, THE CITY'S MAIN PLAZA NAMED AFTER THE 15th CENTURY LORD SKANDERBEG.

SINCE 1991, TIRANA HAS BEEN IN TRANSFORMATION.

WHEN WE ARRIVE, SKANDERBEG SQUARE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION, AND MAYOR LULZIM BASHA SHOWS ME AROUND THE MUNICIPAL BUILDINGS.

>> THIS IS A BOULEVARD WITHOUT A CITY.

>> MM.

>> BUT IT BECAME A CITY WITH A BEAUTIFUL BOULEVARD.

SO IT'S A LESSON FROM 80 YEARS AGO, 90 YEARS AGO... >> AND SOON TO BE EVEN MORE BEAUTIFUL.

>> ...AND A LESSON WE SHOULD INCORPORATE IN PLANNING AND BUILDING TIRANA FOR THE 21st CENTURY.

SO THIS IS THE CLOCK TOWER, THE SYMBOL OF THE CITY.

IT WAS RECENTLY RESTORED AND SULEMAN DID THE WORK FOR RESTORATION.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> NICE TO MEET YOU.

THE CLOCK TOWER OF TIRANA WAS BUILT IN THE FIRST YEARS OF 19th CENTURY -- 1820.

>> Eliza: I BRUSHED UP ON MY ALBANIAN HISTORY, STARTING WITH OUR ANCESTORS, THE ILLYRIANS.

>> ALBANIANS ARE A VERY ANCIENT PEOPLE.

MORE THAN 3,000 YEARS AGO, WE HAVE THE FIRST TRACES OF ILLYRIAN CIVILIZATION -- PRE-ROMAN CIVILIZATION, WHICH DEVELOPED SIDE TO SIDE WITH THE HELLENIC CIVILIZATION.

>> YOU KNOW, WE'RE SURROUNDED BY ITALY AND GREECE, AND EVERYBODY KNOWS THESE PLACES.

WHY HAS ALBANIA HAD SUCH A HISTORY OF NOT BEING RECOGNIZED BY THE REST OF THE WORLD?

>> IT'S TRUE.

ALBANIA AND ALBANIANS HAVE BEEN AT THE CENTER OF EUROPEAN HISTORY FROM THE VERY BEGINNING, BUT AS HISTORY DEVELOPED, THE NATION REMAINED AN ORPHAN NATION ENTANGLED IN THE BIG GAME OF POWERS AND EMPIRES THAT CAME AND WENT.

>> YEAH.

>> ROME AND CONSTANTINOPLE -- BYZANTINE.

LATER THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE.

AND ALBANIANS GAVE SO MUCH TO THESE CIVILIZATIONS AND ALSO TOOK FROM THEM.

THE BIG EMPIRES WERE RESPONSIBLE FOR SHADING ALBANIA AWAY FROM THE EYES OF THE REST OF THE WORLD.

>> I MEAN, YOU SAID EARLIER ALBANIA HAS BEEN AN ORPHAN COUNTRY.

>> INDEED.

YEARS AND CENTURIES OF ISOLATION HAS LEFT A MARK ON OUR HISTORY, BUT IT NEVER HARMED ALBANIANS' UNIQUE HOSPITALITY.

HOSPITALITY IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL VIRTUE OF ALBANIANS.

>> SOLD.

♪ >> Eliza: MY GRANDFATHER, ON THE EVE OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR, FOUND HIS WAY TO BOSTON.

OVER THE YEARS, HE KEPT IN TOUCH WITH HIS FAMILY IN ALBANIA THROUGH LETTERS, AND MY FATHER AND UNCLES HELD ON TO THE ADDRESSES OF THESE RELATIVES AFTER HE PASSED AWAY.

IN 1991, WHEN THE BORDERS OF ALBANIA WERE OPENED TO TRAVELERS FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 45 YEARS, OUR FATHER WENT TO VISIT.

>> IT WAS A MOVING EXPERIENCE, BOTH GRATIFYING AND SHOCKING AT THE SAME TIME.

IN TIRANA, I GOT TO MEET FOR THE FIRST TIME MY LOVING UNCLE, ANESTI DUSHKU, AND HIS WONDERFUL FAMILY.

I'LL NEVER FORGET THE LOOK OF SURPRISE AND JOY WHEN THEY ANSWERED MY KNOCK ON THEIR DOOR.

EVEN THOUGH I HAD WRITTEN TO THEM MONTHS EARLIER, THEY HAD NOT RECEIVED MY LETTER AND WERE NOT EXPECTING ME.

LOOKING AT ANESTI STANDING AT THE OPEN DOOR IN A T-SHIRT AND PAJAMA BOTTOMS WAS AS IF I HAD AROUSED MY OWN FATHER.

THE RESEMBLANCES WERE REMARKABLE, AND I WAS MUCH TAKEN BY SURPRISE.

>> Eliza: ANESTI PASSED AWAY THE NEXT YEAR, AND WE LOST TOUCH.

HOPEFULLY HIS DAUGHTER, ELVIRA, AND HER FAMILY STILL LIVE IN TIRANA.

ALL WE HAVE ARE TWO OLD ADDRESSES AND A DISCONNECTED TELEPHONE NUMBER, SO OUR FRIEND AGEST, A LOCAL, HELPS US TRACK THEM DOWN.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] [ MUSIC TONE PLAYS ] >> OUR FIRST ATTEMPT, WE CAME TO THE BLIND ROAD, NUMBER 101, BUT THE NUMBERS HAVE CHANGED.

SOME OF THEM ARE MARKED ON THE WALL.

THOSE ARE THE OLD NUMBERS.

NOW THERE ARE NEW NUMBERS, AND WE RANG A BELL, AND A LITTLE OLD LADY SAID THAT SHE DIDN'T RECOGNIZE THE NAME AND THEY WEREN'T HERE.

[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] WE HAVE A LEAD.

>> [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ] >> Eliza: WE FIND OUR SECOND COUSIN FLORIAN, ANESTI'S GRANDSON.

>> ...BECAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW THERE IS SOMEONE... >> Eliza: HE CALLS HIS SISTER NELI AND THEIR MOTHER, ELVIRA.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: ELVIRA SHARES WITH US THE STORY OF HOW HER FATHER, ANESTI, PLAYED MATCHMAKER TO OUR GRANDPARENTS, GEORGE AND VILLERMINI, FROM OVER 4,000 MILES AWAY.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> UNCLE ANESTI NOW WAS URGING YOUR GRANDFATHER TO GET MARRIED, AND THE IDEA WAS NOT TO JUST GET MARRIED, BUT GET MARRIED TO AN ALBANIAN.

>> THANK YOU.

AH.

>> TO GET AN ALBANIAN WIFE.

THIS IS KIND OF STRANGE.

SOMEONE WHO HAD A GIRL THAT WANTED TO BE MARRIED, THEY WOULD MAKE THE FULL PICTURE OF HER AND GIVE IT TO MANY PEOPLE... >> OH, WOW.

>> ...SO THAT THEY WOULD PRESENT IT.

>> SO YOU PICK A BRIDE.

>> YEAH, A PICTURE.

>> KIND OF.

>> BUT GEORGE PICKED OUR GRANDMOTHER.

>> I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY PHOTOGRAPHS WERE PRESENTED TO HIM, BUT... [ LAUGHTER ] THEY FIRST MET THROUGH PHOTOGRAPHS.

>> AND SHE WAS IN KORçE.

>> SHE WAS IN KORçE.

SHE COMES FROM A GOOD FAMILY... >> SO THAT'S WHEN GEORGE CAME BACK TO ALBANIA FOR VILLERMINI.

>> SHE WAS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL GIRL OF THE HOUSE WHEN SHE WAS RAISED.

>> HE LOVED HER VERY MUCH, AND FOR A SHORT TIME, THEY LIVED IN KORçE IN THE SAME HOUSE WHERE VANI AND ALEXANDRA AND ANESTI.

SINCE THAT TIME, THEY DIDN'T COME BACK.

>> Eliza: WE NEVER KNEW THAT OUR GRANDPARENTS MET VIA THE POSTAL SERVICE.

THEY MARRIED IN THEIR HOMETOWN OF KORçE, MOVED TO THE U.S.

TOGETHER IN THE 1930s, AND NEVER RETURNED TO ALBANIA AGAIN.

♪ IN NEED OF A COFFEE, I MEET UP WITH BLERIM IN AN AREA CALLED "THE BLOCK."

>> WHY "BLOCK"?

BECAUSE YOU SEE LEFT FROM YOU THIS BUILDING WAS FROM THE LEADER FROM ALBANIA IN COMMUNIST TIME, ENVER HOXHA.

EVERYTHING WAS CLOSED IN THIS AREA FROM 1945 TILL 1991.

WE HAVE NEW BUILDINGS, NEW BARS, AND PARTIES I WILL SHOW YOU MAYBE ANOTHER TIME.

>> SO WE'RE GONNA START OUT ON THIS ROAD TRIP, THE ALBANIAN ROAD TRIP.

>> YEAH.

>> WHAT DO YOU HOPE THAT WE EXPERIENCE?

>> ALBANIA HAS BEAUTIFUL PLACES.

>> I KEEP HEARING SO MUCH ABOUT HOW BEAUTIFUL THE BEACHES ARE.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE BEACH?

>> I LOVE DURRES, FOR EXAMPLE -- HALF AN HOUR.

IT'S VERY CLOSE TO TIRANA, SO YOU CAN GO IN THE MORNING... >> RIGHT.

>> ...ENJOY THE SUN.

5:00, BACK TO TIRANA, HAVE A SHOWER, LET'S GO AND HAVE FUN.

>> WE LOVE THAT.

EVERYBODY MOVES FAST IN TODAY'S WORLD.

>> WE SUCCEEDED TO GO BEYOND THE GRAY, DUSTY CURTAIN THAT WAS PRACTICALLY BLINDING THE PEOPLE AND MAKING THEM BE TOTALLY INDIFFERENT TOWARDS THE COMMUNITY AND SOCIETY.

>> Eliza: I HEAD OUT TO GO SHOPPING AT AN ITALIAN DEPARTMENT STORE CALLED COIN, WHICH OPENED IN 2010 AND CARRIES BRANDS LIKE VALENTINO, GUESS, AND ALBANIAN DESIGNER MIRELA NURçE.

MIRELA IS KIND ENOUGH TO SHOW ME SOME OF HER COLLECTION.

>> WILL YOU SHOW ME SOME STUFF?

WILL YOU MAYBE HELP ME FIND A COAT TODAY?

>> YES.

>> MM.

>> [ CHUCKLES ] >> CUTE.

[ BOTH LAUGH ] >> Eliza: NATE FOUND OUT THAT THERE WAS A DUSHKU ON THE KF TIRANA FOOTBALL TEAM.

SO WE CRASHED THEIR PRACTICE.

>> WHAT'S YOUR NAME?

HELLO.

ELIZA.

I SEE -- I FEEL A RESEMBLANCE.

YEAH.

[ CHUCKLES ] OH, MY GOSH.

I CAN'T EVEN BELIEVE THIS.

I'VE NEVER MET ANY OTHER DUSHKUs IN THE WORLD THAT WEREN'T MY UNCLES.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> HE COMES IN AMERICA OFTEN, BUT HE HASN'T SEEN YOU THERE, HE SAYS.

>> 411 -- INFORMATION.

YOU CAN CALL.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] [ LAUGHTER ] PLAY WITH THEM -- SOCCER.

>> ABSOLUTELY.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> PASS, PASS!

>> [ CHUCKLES ] >> [ LAUGHS ] YAY!

[ APPLAUSE ] >> Eliza: SOCCER HAS LONG BEEN A PASTIME OF ALBANIANS, AND DURING THE TIME OF COMMUNISM, SOCCER PLAYERS WERE SOME OF THE VERY FEW WHO WERE PERMITTED TO TRAVEL OUTSIDE THE COUNTRY.

EVEN TODAY AS LORIK CANA, CAPTAIN OF THE ALBANIAN NATIONAL TEAM EXPLAINED TO ME, SOCCER IS STILL A PLATFORM FOR CONNECTING ALBANIANS AROUND THE GLOBE.

>> I THINK SPORT LIKE ACTING OR MODELING OR SOMETHING TO DO WITH ART, WHEN YOU WANT TO REPRESENT YOUR COUNTRY OR THE NATION YOU COME FROM, IT'S AN AMAZING AMBASSADOR OF YOUR COUNTRY, AND IT'S MAYBE A SMALL THING FOR SOME PEOPLE, BUT FOR ALBANIANS, IT MEANS A LOT.

IT MEANS THAT THEY HAVE THEIR OWN VOICE AND PEOPLE CAN LISTEN, AND I TRY WHEREVER I PLAY, AND I PLAYED LAST YEAR IN ROME, COUNTRY.

>> ABSOLUTELY.

>> I HAVE SOME TATTOO.

>> YOU HAVE AN EAGLE?

>> YEAH.

>> THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

>> AND IT WRITES "ILLYRIA" DOWN HERE, AND ILLYRIA IS THE NAME OF OUR ANCESTORS, THE ILLYRIANS.

I THINK WE DESERVE TO TELL PEOPLE THAT WHAT WE WERE, WHAT WE ARE, AND WHAT CAN WE CAN GIVE TO THE REST OF THE WORLD.

WE ARE A SMALL NATION, BUT WE ARE PROUD TO BE ALBANIAN, AND WE DON'T WANT TO BE THE BEST, BUT WE JUST WANT TO FIND OUR PLACE.

>> Eliza: IT'S TIME TO HIT THE ROAD FOR NEARBY KRUJA.

♪ JUST LIKE MY DAD, I LOVE A GOOD BARGAIN, SO I STOP BY THE OUTDOOR BAZAAR TO LOOK FOR SOME SOUVENIRS.

>> WHO DOESN'T LOVE A GOOD TCHOTCHKE?

THESE RUGS -- OH, SHE'S MAKING THE RUGS IN THERE.

WOW.

SALI BERISHA.

>> IT'S PRESENT FOR YOU.

>> THANK YOU.

I HAVE MY OWN SALI BERISHA TO DRINK COFFEE OUT OF.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: WE HEAD UP THE HILL TO KRUJA CASTLE, HOME OF THE SKANDERBEG MUSEUM DEDICATED TO ALBANIA'S REVERED NATIONAL HERO.

IN THE 1400s, THE OTTOMANS RULED OVER THE ALBANIAN PEOPLE.

THROUGH SHEER FORCE OF WILL, SKANDERBEG, AN ALBANIAN WARRIOR SERVING IN THE OTTOMAN ARMY, SECRETLY ORGANIZED 300 ALBANIAN SOLDIERS AND SEIZED THE CASTLE AT KRUJA.

SKANDERBEG DECLARED HIMSELF THE AVENGER OF THE ALBANIANS AND RAISED THE RED FLAG WITH THE DOUBLE-HEADED EAGLE.

HE WENT ON TO DEFEND HIS PEOPLE AGAINST THE OTTOMANS FOR A QUARTER OF A CENTURY, CREATING THE FIRST UNIFIED ALBANIAN NATION.

THOUGH AFTER HIS DEATH, THE LAND WOULD AGAIN FALL TO THE OTTOMANS, SKANDERBEG IS THE ULTIMATE FOUNDING FATHER OF ALBANIA.

IT WOULD BE 444 YEARS UNTIL ALBANIA ONCE AGAIN DECLARED ITS INDEPENDENCE AS A MODERN REPUBLIC IN 1912.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> AS YOU CAN SEE, THESE ARE THE ORIGINAL WALLS OF THE CASTLE.

OVER THERE IS TIRANA, DURRES, AND MONTENEGRO.

>> Eliza: THE OTTOMANS WEREN'T THE ONLY GREAT EMPIRE TO LEAVE THEIR MARK ON ALBANIA.

THE GREEKS AND ROMANS ALSO INFLUENCED MANY OF THE GREAT STRUCTURES AND AMPHITHEATERS AS WE SEE HERE IN APOLLONIA, WHICH THRIVED IN THE ROMAN PERIOD AS A RESPECTED CENTER OF PHILOSOPHY AND LEARNING AND WAS NAMED IN HONOR OF THE SUN GOD APOLLO.

♪ THIS IS LULE.

SHE LIVES IN THE COURTYARD SURROUNDING SANTA MARIA CHURCH.

ACCORDING TO FADIL, SHE'LL GIVE US A TOUR IF WE BUY HER A STEAK.

OUR GUIDE AND TRANSLATOR, ANI, GIVES US A TOUR OF THE ANCIENT CITY.

>> THIS IS APOLLO, THE SUN GOD.

HERE HE REPRESENTS A GOD THAT PROTECTS THE ANIMALS AND ART.

SEE ALL THE PICTURES IN THE FRESCOES, THEY DON'T HAVE THEIR EYES.

>> WHY?

>> IT'S SUPERSTITION.

THE PEOPLE FROM THIS REGION BELIEVE THAT IF THEY TAKE THE PAINT FROM THE EYES, PUT IT IN WATER AND DRINK IT, IT'S GOOD FOR THEM.

THEY BELIEVED THE EYES OF THE SAINTS COULD HELP THEM GET OVER THEIR PROBLEM.

>> THIS IS SOMETHING ELSE.

>> YEAH, MAGNIFICENT.

APOLLONIA WAS QUITE IMPORTANT.

BUT EVEN AUGUSTUS GAVE A SPECIAL STATUS TO THE CITY, CALLING IT A FREE CITY.

THEY DIDN'T HAVE TO PAY TAX TO ROME.

>> DO A LOT OF BRIDES COME UP HERE?

>> YEAH.

IT'S A TRADITION.

>> I WANT TO BE AN ALBANIAN BRIDE.

>> IT'S SOMETHING THAT THEY CAN REMEMBER FOR THE REST OF THEIR LIVES.

>> Eliza: APPARENTLY, APOLLONIA IS THE DESTINATION FOR WEDDING PHOTOS.

>> HOW MANY BRIDES DID YOU SEE?

>> THIS IS OUR SIXTH.

♪ >> Eliza: FROM THE SUN GOD TO THE HEAVENLY BEACHES, ALBANIA IS A VACATIONER'S PARADISE.

ITS MIX OF HOSPITALITY, HISTORICAL RELICS, AND SCENIC OF LONELY PLANET'S NUMBER-ONE TRAVEL DESTINATION.

WE HIT THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA, WHICH STRETCHES FROM VLORA TO SARANDA.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> WE GOT ITALY OVER THERE, GREECE OVER THERE.

>> AND THE SUN.

>> Eliza: AND THEN FADIL GRABS HIS CAMERA FOR AN IMPROMPTU PHOTO SHOOT.

>> BEAUTIFUL.

[ CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKING ] YOU LOOK GORGEOUS.

THIS SIDE.

ONE SECOND.

ONE SECOND.

LOVE THAT.

>> OH.

>> PERFECT.

MOVE THE -- LOTS OF HAIR.

MOVE THE HAIR.

YES.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> [ LAUGHS ] PERFECT.

THAT'S NICE, THAT'S NICE, THAT'S NICE.

IT'S LOOKING PERFECT.

GORGEOUS.

>> Eliza: BACK ON THE ROAD, WE MAKE OUR WAY OUT OF VLORA AND CLIMB HIGH INTO THE LLOGARA PASS.

THE WINDING ALPINE ROAD IS ONE OF THE MOST PANORAMIC ROUTES OF THE IONIAN COAST, WHERE ONE CAN GO HIKING OR EVEN PARAGLIDING.

AIR CURRENTS RUNNING THROUGH THE PASS HAVE CAUSED CERTAIN TREES TO BEND AND CONTORT, LIKE THE PISHA FLAMUR, OR FLAG PINE.

WE SEE A BUNCH OF BEEHIVES BY THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND DECIDE TO TAKE A PIT STOP.

>> IS BEEKEEPING AN ALBANIAN TRADITION?

>> ALBANIAN HONEY.

WATCH OUT.

>> YOU WANT SOME HONEY, HONEY?

>> OH, HONEY, HONEY BUNNY.

WHAT'S IT TASTE LIKE?

ALCOHOL?

>> IT DOES TASTE LIKE ALCOHOL A LITTLE BIT.

>> VODKA?

>> AND THIS?

PROPOLIS.

BEE PROPOLIS.

>> SO YOU KNOW ABOUT THAT.

HOW DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THAT?

>> YOU CAN GET IT IN PROTEIN SHAKES IN L.A. >> [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ] >> WHOA!

>> WHAT IS IT LIKE?

>> IT'S INTENSE.

IT MADE MY WHOLE TONGUE TINGLE.

>> REALLY?

>> TASTE IT.

[ CHUCKLES ] THAT'S SOME POTENT PROPOLIS RIGHT THERE.

>> HOW YOU DOING?

[ BOTH LAUGH ] YOU KNOW, I THINK IT REALLY -- IT HAS A BITTERNESS.

>> I'LL TAKE ONE.

YOU GOT ANY MONEY, HONEY?

>> YEAH, HONEY.

>> [ LAUGHS ] >> Eliza: FRESH LOCAL FOOD IS EASY TO FIND.

ALBANIA SHARES A TRADITIONAL MEDITERRANEAN DIET WITH ITS NEIGHBORS.

YOU'LL OFTEN FIND THAT LAMB, FISH, CHEESE, TOMATOES, YOGURT, OLIVES, HONEY, FRUIT, AND OTHER DELIGHTS MAKE UP MUCH OF WHAT FILLS THE ALBANIAN TABLE.

WE WIND BACK DOWN TO THE COAST AND NESTLE INTO THE VILLAGE OF DHERMI.

[ JAZZ-STYLE MUSIC PLAYS ] AFTER OUR JAM SESSION, IT WAS TIME FOR ANOTHER ADVENTURE.

FADIL HIRES A BOAT, AND WE ZIP OUT ONTO THE IONIAN SEA, WHERE CONCRETE BUNKERS SPECKLE THE COASTLINE, ALL BUILT DURING THE COMMUNIST REIGN OF ENVER HOXHA IN PREPARATION FOR A FOREIGN INVASION THAT NEVER HAPPENED.

WE PULL INTO GRAMATA BAY, A PIRATE COVE WHERE SHIPS HAVE ANCHORED SINCE ANTIQUITY.

NAMES AND INITIALS STAMPED ON THE STEEP ROCK FACES DATE BACK TO THE 4th CENTURY B.C., AND INCLUDE THOSE OF PROMINENT HISTORICAL FIGURES SUCH AS MARK ANTONY.

>> IF YOU WATCH ALL THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST, THE ALBANIAN SIDE IS STILL MORE INTACT, AND THERE IS STILL A VERY HIGH POTENTIAL OF DEVELOPING IN A REASONABLE WAY, ALTHOUGH IT'S NOT EASY BECAUSE THE PRESSURE OF INTEREST IS VERY STRONG.

>> SURE.

>> BUT I THINK WE CAN DO SOMETHING SPECIAL IF WE WILL BE ALL COMMITTED TO DEVELOP BY PROTECTING.

>> Eliza: AT THE SOUTHERN BORDER LIE THE RUINS OF BUTRINT.

AN IMPORTANT SETTLEMENT IN HELLENISTIC TIMES, THE PENINSULAR CITY WAS A SANCTUARY PRAISING THE GREEK GOD OF MEDICINE, ASCLEPIUS.

>> THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PLACE IN THE ANCIENT CITY -- THE TEMPLE.

THESE ARE LEGAL DOCUMENTS WRITTEN IN STONE.

WHEN THEY WOULD SET A SLAVE FREE, THEY WOULD WRITE IT ON STONE.

HE WOULD BE FREE FOREVER.

IT WAS A GIFT TO THE GODS.

YOU'RE GONNA LIKE THIS.

THIS IS THE THEATRE BUILT IN THE 3rd CENTURY B.C.

THE FIRST LINE OF STONES, YOU SEE THEY HAVE LIKE WIDER STEPS.

>> MM-HMM.

>> THE IMPORTANT PEOPLE WOULD SIT THERE.

>> LIKE SHOWS THAT LASTED FOR THREE OR FOUR HOURS.

>> MAYBE DAYS.

>> DAYS.

>> [ CHUCKLES ] >> LOOK AT THE DRAMATIC FACES IN THE PILLAR.

>> THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGAN.

>> THIS IS WHERE MY ROOTS MUST HAVE COME FROM.

>> YEAH.

>> THE DRAMA.

[ LAUGHS ] WHY DO YOU ALWAYS GOT TO PLAY THE VILLAGE IDIOT?

[ LAUGHS ] >> THIS IS THE BEGINNINGS.

>> WELCOME.

>> Eliza: DURING THE ROMAN AGE, A BASILICA WAS BUILT.

>> THE WHOLE FLOOR OF THE CATHEDRAL WAS COVERED BY A BEAUTIFUL MOSAIC.

A LITTLE REMAINS, SO WE CAN APPRECIATE IT.

>> AHH.

>> AND YOU SEE THE CIRCLES.

THEY ARE CONTINUOUS.

THEY REPRESENT ETERNITY.

THEY NEVER END.

>> YEAH.

WHAT A TREASURE OVER HERE.

I FEEL SOMETHING HERE, LIKE THE OLD, OLD HEARTBEAT OF THE COUNTRY.

♪ >> Eliza: BUTRINT AND APOLLONIA WERE ABANDONED IN THE MIDDLE AGES AFTER RAIDS, EARTHQUAKES, AND FLOODING.

BUT ONE CITY IN ALBANIA HAS BEEN CONTINUOUSLY OCCUPIED FOR GENERATIONS -- BERAT.

♪ SITUATED IN CENTRAL ALBANIA, IT BECAME AN IMPORTANT CITADEL IN THE MIDDLE AGES AND REMAINS A CITY FILLED WITH INHABITANTS TODAY.

AS A RESULT, ITS STRUCTURES ARE REMARKABLY WELL-MAINTAINED, AND THE ENTIRE CITY IS CONSIDERED A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

MANY PEOPLE LIVE IN APARTMENTS SECTIONED OFF WITHIN THE ANCIENT BULWARK.

IN OTHER WORDS, SOME OF BERAT'S APARTMENTS ARE OVER 1,500 YEARS OLD.

AND JUST AROUND THE CORNER HERE, WE WILL REACH THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARY.

THE MASTERPIECE HERE IS THE ICONOSTAS -- BEAUTIFUL, HAND-CARVED WALNUT WOOD, GOLD-PLATED.

THE ICONS ARE THE MASTERWORK OF ONUFRI, THE FAMOUS ALBANIAN PAINTER.

THE ICONOSTAS HAS DOUBLE-HEADED EAGLE IN THE CENTER, REPRESENTING BYZANTINE ROME -- THE UNIFICATION OF THE TWO EMPIRES -- ONE EMPIRE, TWO HEADS.

>> WE'VE HEARD MANY EXPLANATIONS ABOUT THE DOUBLE-HEADED EAGLE -- CHURCH AND STATE, EAST AND WEST, A MYTH ABOUT A BIRD DYING, AND THEN ANOTHER BIRD COMING TO RESCUE IT.

>> THEY'RE ALL TRUE.

>> ALL TRUE.

>> [ CHUCKLES ] >> Eliza: WE WANDER THE AREAS AROUND THE CASTLE AND SEE HOW LIFE STILL COURSES THROUGH THE OLD WALLED CITY.

>> OH, HE'S GOT SOME FRESH FIGS.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY THEM?

>> OOH.

>> THEY'RE VERY SWEET.

>> LOOK AT THAT.

>> THESE ARE FIGS FROM THE CASTLE.

HE JUST PICKED THEM UP MINUTES AGO OR SOMETHING.

>> OH, MY GOSH.

THAT IS THE SWEETEST... >> THEY'RE VERY SWEET.

>> THEY'RE VERY SWEET.

>> ...THING EVER.

MMM.

THANK YOU.

>> [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ] >> BYE-BYE.

>> BYE.

>> WHAT ARE THEY PLAYING?

>> THEY'RE PLAYING DOMINOES.

>> DOMINOES.

>> [ CHUCKLES ] >> PEOPLE STILL LIVE IN THE CASTLE FOR MANY GENERATIONS NOW, AND THEY'RE VERY WELL-KNOWN FOR THEIR HOSPITALITY.

>> LIKE INSIDE THESE DOORS?

>> WE COULD TRY IT.

IF WE KNOCK ON THE DOOR, I'M SURE SOMEBODY WILL ANSWER.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> ELIZA DUSHKU.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> YES.

>> I'M NATE.

NICE TO MEET YOU.

>> MY BROTHER.

DO YOU LIVE HERE WITH FAMILY?

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> SHE SAID THAT THEY'VE BEEN HERE SINCE 1930s.

HER HUSBAND WAS A TAILOR.

>> COULD YOU ASK HER IF WE COULD TAKE HER PORTRAIT?

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> YOU'RE BEAUTIFUL.

YOU ARE SO BEAUTIFUL.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> ACTUALLY YOU'RE NOT THE FIRST PEOPLE THAT WANTED HER PHOTOGRAPH.

>> OH, GEEZ.

[ LAUGHTER ] [ CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS ] [ CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS ] >> ARE YOU ENGAGED OR MARRIED OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT?

>> I HAVE A BOYFRIEND.

HE COMES TO TOWN ON FRIDAY.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] [ LAUGHS ] >> WELL, GET IT OVER WITH.

[ LAUGHTER ] >> WHAT'S THE SECRET TO HAVING A SUCCESSFUL AND LONG MARRIAGE?

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> THIS IS ADVICE MY MOTHER-IN-LAW GAVE ME.

SHE SAID WHEN HER HUSBAND COMES HOME... >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> ...BETTER LUNCH BE READY.

>> [ LAUGHS ] >> YOU DON'T WANT TO START THEN.

>> BETTER LUNCH BE READY.

>> OKAY.

I WON'T TELL MY BOYFRIEND.

[ LAUGHTER ] >> [ SMOOCH ] [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] ♪ >> Eliza: KORçE, THE BIRTHPLACE OF OUR ANCESTORS.

THE SUN SHINES A BEAUTIFUL LIGHT ON A QUAINT LITTLE CITY WHERE SHEPHERDS TENDING THEIR FLOCKS STILL SHARE HILLSIDES WITH TILED ROOFTOPS.

THIS IS WHERE THE HEART AND SOUL OF THE DUSHKU FAMILY LIVES.

♪ >> YAY!

YOU MADE IT!

>> I CAN'T SPEAK A LICK.

>> OKAY, THE BASICS -- OKAY.

PO.

>> PO?

>> "PO" MEANS YES, BUT YOU SHAKE YOUR HEAD NO.

[ LAUGHS ] >> WHAT?

I SAY...PO?

>> NO.

>> WHAT'S NO?

>> NO IS "YO."

BUT YOU SAY YO FOR NO.

THAT'S ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW RIGHT NOW.

WE HAVE TRANSLATORS.

>> [ LAUGHS ] [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] >> WANT SOME WATER?

>> YEAH, PLEASE.

>> SO, FADIL, WHAT PART OF ALBANIA ARE YOU FROM?

>> THE NORTH.

EVERYBODY'S LIGHTER, TALLER, BLONDER, BUT THEY'RE THE MOUNTAIN MEN, SO IT'S A WHOLE 'NOTHER... >> WHAT ABOUT THE WOMEN?

>> HUH?

THEY'RE LIKE MOUNTAIN MEN, TOO.

[ LAUGHTER ] THEY LOOK LIKE THEY ARE.

RIGHT?

THEY'RE VERY STRONG.

THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.

THERE'S YOUR BYREK.

>> OHH.

THIS IS WHAT MY GRANDMA MADE.

BUT MY GRANDMOTHER USED TO MAKE THIS.

THAT WAS ONE OF THE MAIN TRADITIONS SHE PASSED DOWN, AND SHE TAUGHT MY MOTHER HOW TO MAKE THE SPINACH PIE WITH THE FILO DOUGH.

>> YEAH.

>> AND WE USED TO MAKE IT AS KIDS, AND THEN ON NEW YEAR'S, WE WOULD PUT COINS WRAPPED IN TINFOIL, AND WE WOULD PUT THEM IN, AND WHOEVER GOT THE COIN, IT MEANT GOOD LUCK.

>> CHEERS.

>> YEAH.

>> GEZUAR.

>> Eliza: IT DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN TO STUMBLE INTO KORçE ON THE FIRST NIGHT OF BEER FEST, ONE OF THE BIGGEST FESTIVALS OF ITS KIND IN THE COUNTRY UNTIL KORçE'S OWN THE ILLUSTRIOUS ELI FARA BEGINS A SERENATA AND INVITES US ONSTAGE.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] [ UP-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ] [ MUSIC STOPS ] [ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] >> JUST A SHORT STOP.

>> Eliza: THE NEXT MORNING AT OUR HOTEL, WE BUMP INTO JUNIK AND MONIKA, WHO SAY THEY'RE ALSO OUR COUSINS.

IT TOOK A YEAR FOR US TO FIGURE OUT HOW WE'RE ACTUALLY RELATED.

OUR GREAT-GRANDFATHER, VANI, WAS ORPHANED AT A YOUNG AGE AND RAISED BY HIS UNCLE PANDO, WHOSE GREAT-GREAT-GRANDCHILDREN ARE JUNIK AND MONIKA.

>> IT'S SO NICE TO FINALLY MEET YOU.

WE HEARD THAT WE HAD FAMILY MEMBERS IN KORçE.

LAST NIGHT, WE WERE AT THE BEER FEST, AND SOME PEOPLE WOULD RUN UP AND SAY, "LOOK AT MY DRIVER'S LICENSE, MY IDENTIFICATION.

IT SAYS 'DUSHKU' ON IT.

I'M YOUR COUSIN."

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> IF THEY ARE CHRISTIAN, IT'S YOUR COUSIN.

>> [ LAUGHTER ] ♪ >> Eliza: SO OUR ANCESTORS ARE CHRISTIAN.

CHRISTIANITY SPREAD TO ALBANIA THROUGH ROMAN INFLUENCE, AND ITS HISTORIC CHURCHES REFLECT THE EARLY ENACTMENT OF THE RELIGION.

HOWEVER, TODAY CHRISTIANITY IS THE SECOND LARGEST RELIGION AFTER ISLAM.

IN THE 14th CENTURY, THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE'S POWER WANED, AND THE OTTOMANS TURNED ALBANIA INTO A MUSLIM TERRITORY.

UPON ACHIEVING INDEPENDENCE IN 1912, RELIGION WAS SYSTEMATICALLY REMOVED FROM NATIONAL CULTURE, A SOLID PRECURSOR OF THE SECULAR OR NEUTRAL COUNTRY THAT IT IS TODAY.

DURING THE COMMUNIST REIGN OF ENVER HOXHA, ALBANIA BECAME THE ONLY CONSTITUTIONALLY ATHEIST STATE IN THE WORLD FROM 1967 TO 1990.

TO HOXHA, PERHAPS RELIGION WAS TOO MUCH OF A THREAT FROM THE OUTSIDE.

HE WAS SET ON MAINTAINING AN ALBANIA THAT WAS AUTONOMOUS.

HOXHA OUTLAWED ALL FORMS OF RELIGION AND SWIFTLY CLOSED OR REPURPOSED CHURCHES AND MOSQUES, SOME OF WHICH HAVE BEEN RESTORED OR REOPENED IN THE PAST 20 YEARS, INCLUDING THE OLDEST CHURCH IN KORçE.

>> WATCH YOUR HEAD.

>> THEY SAID THESE FRESCOES ARE FROM 1390.

>> THIS IS GORGEOUS.

THERE YOU GO.

[ OBJECT RATTLES ] OH, MY GOSH.

>> WOW.

>> I HAVE CHILLS RIGHT NOW.

>> DO YOU FEEL THE STILLNESS IN HERE?

MY HEART IS BEATING SO FAST.

>> WOW.

THE CHURCH OF OUR GRANDPARENTS.

♪ >> Eliza: ALBANIA'S NOT JUST A PLACE, IT IS A PEOPLE.

>> BRAVO!

BRAVO!

>> Eliza: TODAY OVER HALF OF THOSE THAT CONSIDER THEMSELVES ALBANIAN LIVE OUTSIDE THE COUNTRY, ABOUT 3.2 MILLION WITHIN ALBANIA, 1.7 MILLION IN NEIGHBORING KOSOVO, 700,000 IN MACEDONIA TO THE EAST, AND OVER A MILLION MORE LIVE ACROSS THE GLOBE -- SOME IN NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES SUCH AS MONTENEGRO, GREECE, ITALY, AND GERMANY, AND OTHERS IN DISTANT ONES FROM AUSTRALIA TO THE U.S. AFTER THE FALL OF COMMUNISM IN THE EARLY 1990s, 800,000 PEOPLE FLED THE COUNTRY -- NEARLY 20% OF THE ALBANIAN POPULATION AND 45% OF ITS ACADEMIC AND EDUCATED CLASS.

♪ AND YET ALBANIANS MAINTAIN AN IDENTITY WITHOUT BORDERS, CONNECTING MORE WITH THEIR SHARED HISTORY.

THE LANGUAGE, ONE OF THE OLDEST IN WESTERN CIVILIZATION, IS REMARKABLY DISTINCT, SHOWING NO CLOSE AFFINITY TO ANY OTHER SURVIVING LANGUAGES.

THE LARGEST USE OF IT TODAY DEFINES A TERRITORY THAT IS OFTEN REFERRED TO AS ETHNIC ALBANIA, A REGION WHICH CONTINUES TO EVOLVE FROM A HISTORY OF DISPUTED BORDERS THAT DON'T ALWAYS REFLECT DEMOGRAPHIC REALITIES.

HERE MANY ETHNIC GROUPS LIVE INTERSPERSED.

AND SO WE TRAVELED BEYOND THE BORDER TO VISIT ALBANIAN CITIES IN NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES, THE FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA, WHICH DECLARED ITS INDEPENDENCE IN 1991.

WE VISIT THE PAINTED MOSQUE BUILT IN 1438 AND REBUILT IN 1833.

OVER 30,000 EGGS WERE USED TO MAKE THE PAINTS AND GLAZES THAT ADORN THE MOSQUE.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> WHAT ABOUT MASHALLAH?

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> LIKE, FOR EXAMPLE, SOMEBODY'S WISHING FOR SOMETHING, THEY SAY "MASHALLAH" -- GOD WILLING.

>> THANK YOU FOR THIS.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: MOTHER TERESA WAS BORN IN SKOPJE, NOW THE CAPITAL CITY OF MACEDONIA.

SHE WENT ON TO WIN THE NOBEL PEACE PRIZE AND CREATE A LEGACY OF SERVICE TO THE POOR AND TO THOSE IN NEED AROUND THE WORLD.

NEXT WE TAKE A JAUNT INTO THE COUNTRY OF KOSOVO.

THE VIBRANT YOUTH-DRIVEN CAPITAL CITY OF PRISHTINA IS WHERE FADIL SPENT MOST OF HIS CHILDHOOD AND IS CURRENTLY UNDERGOING A CULTURAL AND POLITICAL RESURGENCE SINCE THE KOSOVO WAR CAME TO AN END IN 1999.

WE STOP BY RADIO TELEVISION OF KOSOVO AND ARE WELCOMED BY A SURPRISE VISIT FROM AN OLD FRIEND -- TONY DOVOLANI.

>> TONY DOVOLANI!

>> HI, BEAUTIFUL.

>> THIS IS AMAZING.

OH.

>> I SET THIS UP WITH FADIL.

>> WERE YOU HERE?

>> NO, I FLEW DIRECTLY FROM HOLLYWOOD.

IN FACT, THIS IS A VERY SPECIAL PLACE BECAUSE BEFORE I CAME TO THE UNITED STATES, I WAS BORN AND RAISED IN PRISHTINA.

>> I DIDN'T KNOW THAT.

I KNEW YOU WERE ALBANIAN, BUT I NEVER KNEW THAT.

>> YES.

ACTUALLY I'M A POLITICAL REFUGEE.

WHEN THE WAR STARTED, MY DAD HAD TO LITERALLY PICK UP HIS FAMILY AND LEAVE BECAUSE WE WERE CHASED OUT OF THE COUNTRY.

>> OH, MY GOSH.

>> AND THIS IS THE VERY STAGE THAT I STARTED MY DANCING.

LITERALLY, I USED TO DANCE ON TV.

WHEN THE TV TOP 40, I USED TO BREAKDANCE IN THE BACKGROUND WHILE THEY WERE PLAYING AND ALL THAT, SO...

WHEN I CAME TO THE UNITED STATES, I SEEKED OUT DANCING, AND THE REST IS HISTORY, YOU KNOW?

I WON TWO WORLD TITLES FOR AMERICA AND TALK ABOUT SAVING MY LIFE.

AMERICA DID NOT JUST SAVE KOSOVO, THEY SAVED MY LIFE, TOO.

>> I HAD NO IDEA.

AND SO HOW OFTEN DO YOU COME BACK HERE?

>> I COME HERE NOW TWICE A YEAR.

>> TWICE A YEAR.

>> YEAH.

>> WHAT'S IT LIKE?

I MEAN, HOW MUCH HAS IT CHANGED?

>> YOU KNOW WHAT'S AMAZING IS THAT YOU COULD SEE THE HAPPINESS IN PEOPLE'S FACES.

THEY KNOW THIS IS A FREE COUNTRY NOW.

THEY DON'T HAVE TO LOOK OVER THEIR SHOULDER.

THEY DON'T HAVE TO LOOK DOWN A GUN BARREL IN ORDER TO JUST WALK ACROSS A STREET.

I REMEMBER BEING FOLLOWED WITH A SNIPER TO GO GET BREAD FOR MY PARENTS.

>> OH, MY GOSH.

>> SO, YOU KNOW, AT FIRST WHEN I FIRST ARRIVED, I HAVE TO BE HONEST.

I DID HAVE THOSE FEELINGS.

I HAD TO LOOK OVER MY SHOULDER TO SEE WHO'S LOOKING AT ME, BUT WHEN I MET THE FIRST BORDER-PATROL GUY, HE SAID, "WELCOME HOME" IN ALBANIAN.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] IT WAS THE BEST WORDS.

I GET GOOSE BUMPS RIGHT NOW.

>> TELL ME ABOUT ALBANIAN OR KOSOVAR DANCE.

IS THERE A TRADITIONAL DANCE?

>> OH, THERE'S -- THAT'S HOW I STARTED.

>> THAT'S HOW YOU STARTED.

>> YES, FOLK DANCING -- SHOTA HERE IN PRISHTINA.

>> SHOTA?

>> YEAH.

>> HOW DOES THE FOLK DANCE GO?

>> THE FOLK DANCE, YOU PUT YOUR ARMS OUT TO THE SIDE, AND THE HANDS KIND OF MOVE LIKE THIS, AND THEN YOU MOVE YOUR FEET LIKE THIS.

ONE, TWO.

THERE YOU GO.

ONE, TWO.

>> Eliza: AS WE SAY GOODBYE TO KOSOVO, TONY DECIDES TO RIDE WITH US BACK INTO ALBANIA INTO THE NORTHERN REGION OF TROPOJA.

AT THE BORDER, OUR LOCAL HOST AND MOST OF THE VILLAGE HAVE COME DOWN FROM THE HIGHLANDS TO GREET US.

>> LAND OF THE EAGLE.

LET'S DO THE SHOTA.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] [ UP-TEMPO DRUM MUSIC PLAYS ] >> Eliza: AND UP THE MOUNTAIN WE GO, FOLLOWING THE CRYSTAL-CLEAR VALBONA RIVER ALL THE WAY TO THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF VALBONA.

♪ WE ARE WELCOMED BY RHAPSODES, OR SINGING POETS, THAT CREATE MULTI-VOICE SONGS WHICH WEAVE TOGETHER HISTORY AND CURRENT EVENTS.

[ UP-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ] THEIR INSTRUMENTS DATE BACK OVER 1,000 YEARS, INCLUDING THE TWO-STRINGED CIFTELIA.

[ UP-TEMPO MUSIC CONTINUES ] >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] [ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN CONTINUES ] [ APPLAUSE ] >> BRAVO.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> THANK YOU SO MUCH.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> THEY WROTE THE SONG JUST FOR HER.

♪ >> [ LAUGHS ] I LOVE IT.

♪ >> BRAVO.

>> BRAVO!

THERE YOU GO.

[ APPLAUSE ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] MMM.

IT'S PERFECT.

[ SMOOCH ] >> HEY.

[ LAUGHTER ] >> YEAH, THAT WAS A FIRST.

I'M BLOWN AWAY RIGHT NOW.

[ UP-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ] [ APPLAUSE ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ LAUGHS ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> LONG LIVE THE DUSHKUs.

>> Eliza: WE WAKE THE NEXT MORNING AND DRIVE OUR CARS RIGHT ONTO THE KOMANI LAKE FERRY.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: IT WASN'T LONG BEFORE THE CAR FERRY BECAME OBSOLETE AS HIGHWAYS HAVE NOW BEEN BUILT FROM KOSOVO TO THE COAST.

BUT A SMALL PASSENGER BOAT STILL MAKES THE ROUTE.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN CONTINUES ] >> Eliza: AFTER WE DOCK, WE TRAVEL TO THE NORTHERN CITY OF SHKODRA, HOME OF ROZAFA CASTLE, WHICH DATES BACK OVER 2,000 YEARS TO THE TIME OF THE ILLYRIANS.

>> THIS IS THE OLDEST AND THE BIGGEST CASTLE IN ALL OF ALBANIA.

>> THE LEGEND GOES THEY WERE TRYING TO BUILD THE CASTLE, AND EVERYTHING THAT THEY WOULD DO TO BUILD IT BY DAY, BY NIGHT, IT WAS RUINED.

SO THEY WENT TO THE ORACLE, AND THE ORACLE TOLD THEM THAT THEY HAD TO SACRIFICE A YOUNG WOMAN IN ORDER FOR THE WALLS TO STAND.

>> OF COURSE.

>> [ Chuckling ] SO THE THREE BROTHERS WERE LIKE, "HOW DO WE CHOOSE WHICH OF OUR WIVES IS GONNA BE SACRIFICED?"

SO THE THREE BROTHERS SAID, "WHICHEVER WIFE OF OURS BRINGS US LUNCH TOMORROW IS GONNA BE THE ONE THAT GOES INTO THE WALL."

SO THEY MADE A PACT THAT THEY WOULDN'T DISCUSS WITH THEIR WIVES SO IT WOULD BE DESTINY WHO CAME, AND THE TWO OLDEST BROTHERS DIDN'T KEEP THEIR PROMISE, AND THEY WENT AND TOLD THEIR WIVES NOT TO COME, SO THE YOUNGEST BROTHER, HIS WIFE WAS THE WIFE THAT CAME AND BROUGHT THE LUNCH, AND SHE SAID, "WELL, I'M WILLING TO MAKE THE SACRIFICE, BUT ONLY IF YOU PUT HALF OF MY BODY INTO THE WALL," BECAUSE SHE WAS PREGNANT WITH A CHILD, AND SHE WANTED TO HAVE ONE EYE WHERE SHE COULD SEE HER SON AND ONE BREAST WHERE SHE COULD NURSE HER SON AND ONE LEG WHERE SHE COULD ROCK THE CRADLE, AND MADE THE DEAL, AND THE CASTLE WAS BUILT.

I THINK DOWNSTAIRS THERE'S A TUNNEL WITH LIME WHERE THEY -- IT REPRESENTS HER BREAST MILK, AND IT SYMBOLIZED THE SACRIFICE THAT ALBANIANS HAVE MADE FOR SO MANY YEARS.

I MEAN, EVEN ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE ROMANS, THEY WOULD MAKE SACRIFICES SO THAT THEY WERE NEVER KEPT UNDER SOMEONE ELSE'S RULE AND THAT THEY WERE FREE LIKE THE EAGLE.

>> LIKE THE DOUBLE-HEADED EAGLE.

♪ >> Eliza: ACROSS THE BORDER IN MONTENEGRO, WE TRAVEL TO THE TOWN OF ULCINJ.

ONCE THE PIRATE CAPITAL OF THE ADRIATIC, THE BEACH TOWN IS NOW THE CENTER OF THE ALBANIAN COMMUNITY IN MONTENEGRO.

DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS, IT BECOMES A GETAWAY OF CHOICE FOR ALBANIANS AND WORLD TRAVELERS ALIKE.

>> CHEERS.

[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] THIS IS HOPPING.

THERE'S SO MANY PEOPLE.

[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] ♪ >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> BRAVO!

>> AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO A VERY GOOD, A VERY SPECIAL PLACE THERE.

>> THE TOWER.

>> THE TOWER.

>> KALAJA E ULQINIT.

>> KALAJA E ULQINIT.

LET'S DO IT.

>> LET'S GO.

>> [ LAUGHS ] >> WE'RE GOING OFF TO THE THEATER.

>> AH, THE THEATER.

IN THE TOWER?

>> IN THE TOWER, YES.

>> DO YOU KNOW WHERE WE'RE GOING?

>> OF COURSE.

>> [ LAUGHS ] >> STRAIGHT AND THEN... >> STRAIGHT AND THEN LEFT.

>> LEFT OR RIGHT.

>> LEFT OR RIGHT, LEFT OR RIGHT.

[ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> HI.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> SO SWEET.

>> SO SWEET.

>> Eliza: IT'S THAT VOICE THAT I RECOGNIZE IN SO MANY ALBANIAN ARTISTS.

OPERA STAR ERMONELA JAHO SHOWS A SIMILAR ARTISTIC CONVICTION.

>> [ SINGING OPERATICALLY ] [ APPLAUSE ] I THINK MAYBE THE DRAMATIC ROLES FOR THE ALBANIANS ARE -- YOU KNOW, OUR STRONG POINT.

>> MM-HMM.

>> AND SO I GAVE SOMETHING FROM THE ALBANIAN -- THE KIND OF PASSION BECAUSE "TRAVIATA," AS YOU KNOW, IT'S A REALLY ROMANTIC OPERA, REALLY DRAMATIC.

THE SACRIFICES, THE LOVE AND EVERYTHING, IT'S OPERA.

YOU HAVE TO GIVE EMOTION BECAUSE THE MUSIC, THE ART, IT'S THE LANGUAGE OF THE HEART, SO THAT'S WHY THE OPERA AND THE MUSIC EXISTS.

WE'RE ALBANIAN.

WE CAN DO SOMETHING REALLY, REALLY, REALLY HUGE, REALLY SPECIAL.

>> [ SINGING OPERATICALLY ] >> Eliza: ALBANIAN OPERA LEGEND INVA MULA VOICED THE ETHEREAL OPERA DIVA IN THE FILM "THE FIFTH ELEMENT."

INVA COMES FROM A FAMILY OF OPERA SINGERS AND HAS BEEN PERFORMING AROUND THE WORLD FOR OVER A DECADE.

>> [ SINGING OPERATICALLY ] YOUR FAMILY COME FROM KORçE.

I WANTED TO SING THE BEGINNING OF A VERY NICE SONG FROM KORçE ONLY FOR YOU.

[ SINGING OPERATICALLY ] >> WOW.

WOW.

FEEL THE GOOSE BUMPS.

>> A GIFT FOR YOU.

>> Eliza: ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MUSICAL SPECTRUM, ALBANIA AND KOSOVO HAVE MANY EXCITING POP ARTISTS AND A STRONG HIP-HOP MOVEMENT THAT EMERGED FROM THE TENSIONS OF THE KOSOVO WAR, GIVING VOICE TO A NEW BREED OF ALBANIAN ARTISTS.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> ♪ IT HAS BECOMING AT YOUR FACE ♪ ♪ AIN'T RESPECT A THING, NO MAN ♪ ♪ TELL 'EM BLOODAH ♪ ♪ HE BE BLEEDIN' ON HIS FACE ♪ ♪ I TOLD HIM HE DON'T LISTEN ♪ >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> ♪ RAPPING MY GAME ♪ ♪ YOUR REAL THING ♪ ♪ WE'RE LIVING LIFE IN THE FAST LANE ♪ [ Echoing ] ♪ FAST LANE ♪ ♪ THEY KNOW WE GOOD ♪ ♪ THEY KNOW WE BAD ♪ ♪ THEY KNOW WE 'HOOD ♪ ♪ ME AND MY GANG ♪ >> [ RAPPING IN ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: ONE OF MY FAVORITE SONGS IS CALLED "1990," A PLAYFUL NOD TO A BREAKOUT YEAR.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] ♪ BABY SO FAIR, FAIR ♪ ♪ BABY SO FAIR, FAIR ♪ >> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] GROWING UP HERE, IT MADE ME STRONG.

>> MM-HMM.

>> IT MADE ME REAL.

I'M SURROUNDED BY PEOPLE THAT ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH.

[ LAUGHS ] THEY DON'T CARE WHAT YOU THINK, THEY ALWAYS SAY IT.

[ LAUGHS ] AND I THINK GROWING UP HERE MADE ME A BETTER ARTIST.

[ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: THOUGH AURELA'S MUSICAL STYLINGS RANGE FROM JAZZ TO TRADITIONAL ALBANIAN SONGS TO POP, HER WORK BEARS A CONTINUAL MARK OF ALBANIAN INFLUENCE.

SHE SHARED WITH ME ABOUT THE SONG SHE PERFORMED WHEN SHE WAS CHOSEN TO REPRESENT ALBANIA AT THE ANNUAL EUROVISION SONG CONTEST.

>> ♪ E-E-E-E-E-H-H-H ♪ I CHOSE TO GO THERE WITH MUSIC THAT SOUNDED ALBANIAN, TO REPRESENT MY COUNTRY IN THE BEST WAY I COULD.

>> MM-HMM.

>> AND I COULDN'T HAVE GONE THERE IN A BETTER WAY BECAUSE I WAS SHOWING 43 OTHER COUNTRIES THAT WE HAVE MUSIC.

EVEN THOUGH WE'RE A SMALL COUNTRY, WE HAVE A LOT OF PASSION HERE.

WANTING TO PUT SOME ALBANIAN... >> FLAIR.

>> ...FLAIR.

RIGHT?

SO IN MY SONG, I WAS SAYING, ♪ I'M LIKE AN EAGLE IN THE OPEN SKY ♪ ♪ I'LL NEVER LAND ♪ ♪ I'M FLYING HIGH ♪ I WANTED TO PUT THE EAGLE THERE.

[ LAUGHS ] AND, OF COURSE, I DRESSED KIND OF LIKE AN EAGLE.

EVERYTHING ONSTAGE WAS MADE WITH THE FLAIR OF THE ALBANIAN SOUND AND NATURE.

>> I LOVE THAT.

>> Eliza: THAT ALBANIAN PRIDE THAT AURELA EXPRESSED, THAT OPEN-HEARTED, OUTSPOKEN PRIDE IS CERTAINLY ONE OF THE PEOPLE'S DEFINING QUALITIES.

BUT THE WARMTH AND KINDNESS OF ALBANIANS, THEIR HOSPITALITY MADE AN EVEN BIGGER IMPRESSION ON US.

WE LEARNED THAT MANY OF THESE QUALITIES STEM FROM AN ALBANIAN CODE OF HONOR CALLED BESA.

BACK IN TIRANA, WE ASKED OUR COUSINS ABOUT IT.

>> BESA.

HAVE YOU HEARD OF THIS BOOK "BESA" OR THE WORD "BESA"?

>> BESA MEANS... >> LIKE A PROMISE?

>> MM-HMM.

MM-HMM.

>> YEAH.

SOMEBODY GAVE US THIS BOOK, AND IT'S ABOUT HOW ALBANIA AND DENMARK WERE THE ONLY TWO COUNTRIES DURING WORLD WAR II THAT PROTECTED THE JEWS IN WORLD WAR II.

>> VERY PROUD OF.

>> YOU SHOULD BE PROUD.

>> WHEN IT HAPPENED, IT HAPPENED IN ALBANIA.

THEY WOULD HIDE THE JEWISH FAMILY IN THE BASEMENTS OF THE HOUSES.

THEY WOULD NOT TELL WHERE THEY -- >> OR TURN THEM IN... >> NO WAY.

NO WAY.

MM-HMM.

THEY WERE PASSED AS MUSLIMS.

MUSLIMS ARE LOCAL, SO NO JEWS IN THIS HOUSE.

>> IS BESA MAINLY A MUSLIM THING OR WAS BESA ALL ALBANIANS?

>> NO, BESA ALL OVER ALBANIA.

>> IT'S ALL OVER ALBANIA?

>> ALL OVER ALBANIA.

>> BESA IS, I PUT MYSELF IN YOUR HANDS.

I BELIEVE IN WHAT YOU SAY.

I BELIEVE IN BESA.

I TRUST YOU WITH MY LIFE.

I TRUST YOU WITH MY -- >> TO A COMPLETE STRANGER?

>> TO A COMPLETE STRANGER.

>> OR DO YOU HAVE TO, LIKE, MEET THEM AND KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THEM?

>> IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE SOMEONE YOU KNOW.

>> HOW WELL DO YOU HAVE TO KNOW SOMEONE BEFORE YOU WOULD KILL YOUR OWN SON TO PROTECT THEM?

>> MM.

NOT AT ALL.

>> IT'S A FEELING.

>> WOW.

>> SO OTHER PEOPLE DO RESPECT ME, THEY HAVE TO RESPECT EVEN YOU.

>> I'M VERY THAT WAY.

PEOPLE ALWAYS SAY I'M VERY PROTECTIVE OF THE PEOPLE THAT ARE CLOSE TO ME.

I'M SURE THAT YOU'RE UNDER MY BESA.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> ALBANIANS, THROUGH THEIR ACTIONS, SHOW THAT THEY ARE FAITHFUL TO SOMEBODY OR TO BE TRUSTED.

BECAUSE THEY PROTECTED SOMEBODY.

THEY COVERED SOMEBODY.

>> Eliza: HOW DO YOU RECONCILE THIS IDEA OF BESA, OF PROTECTING A STRANGER WHO MAY HAVE DIFFERENT BELIEFS WHILE HAVING SUCH A STRONG SENSE OF LOYALTY TO ONE'S OWN?

HOW CAN A COUNTRY BE BOTH FIERCELY PROUD AND INCREDIBLY NURTURING OF OUTSIDERS?

>> WE'RE NOT CLOSE-MINDED PEOPLE.

WE ARE OPEN-MINDED PEOPLE.

WE LOVE EVERYTHING THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

WE LOVE AMERICA.

WE LOVE JAPAN.

WE LOVE EVERYTHING.

RIGHT?

BUT IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHERE YOU COME FROM, YOU CAN'T LOVE NOBODY ELSE.

RIGHT?

♪ >> Eliza: INSIDE ALL OF US IS A DESIRE TO KNOW WHERE WE CAME FROM.

THAT DESIRE WAS AT THE HEART OF WHY ALBANIA WAS A PLACE I WANTED TO GET TO KNOW.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: ON THE LAST DAY OF OUR VISIT, NELI UNVEILED A SLIDE SHOW SHE HAD LOVINGLY CRAFTED OF OLD FAMILY PHOTOS.

WE SAT AND WATCHED FACES GO BY.

OUR GRANDPARENTS, GEORGE AND VILLERMINI.

WE SAW FOR THE FIRST TIME THE FACES OF OUR GREAT-GRANDPARENTS JOVAN AND ALEXANDRA.

THEN CHILDHOOD PHOTOS OF OUR UNCLES NICHOLAS, VICTOR, CHARLIE, OUR FATHER, PHILIP, AND HIS LITTLE SISTER, GLORIA.

>> [ SINGING IN ALBANIAN ] >> Eliza: IN 1990, ALBANIA'S CAPITAL CITY, TIRANA, HAD ONLY ONE STOPLIGHT, BUT NOW THE CAPITAL IS A BUSTLING HUB OF TRAFFIC.

THIS SIMPLE SYMBOL REVEALS HOW ALBANIANS HAVE SEIZED THEIR DESTINY, EMERGING FROM THEIR ISOLATED PAST WITH WARMTH, DIGNITY, AND A HOPE THAT OPPORTUNITY WILL CONTINUE TO FLOURISH NOT ONLY OUTSIDE OF ITS BORDERS, BUT ALSO WITHIN THEM.

OUR LAST BIT OF BUSINESS IN TIRANA -- A MEETING WITH THE RESIDING PRIME MINISTER, SALI BERISHA, WHO PRESENTED ME WITH MORE THAN JUST A PARTING GIFT.

>> [ SPEAKING ALBANIAN ] >> THANK YOU.

>> HAVE A SEAT.

>> THIS TRIP HAS BEEN BEYOND WHAT WE COULD HAVE IMAGINED.

>> IT IS THE MORE YOU VISIT THIS COUNTRY THE MORE YOU LOVE IT.

>> YES, ABSOLUTELY.

>> NOW, THIS...

YOUR ALBANIAN PASSPORT.

>> AH.

WITH THE PHOTO FROM VLORA.

[ LAUGHS ] THEY SPELLED MY NAME RIGHT AND EVERYTHING.

THIS IS GREAT.

[ LAUGHS ] I'M SO EXCITED.

YES, WE'D LOVE TO COME BACK.

WE'RE IN THE CLOUDS.

>> THE WHOLE CITY THERE.

>> RROFTE SHIPERIA.

[ CHUCKLES ] LONG LIVE ALBANIA.

>> OUR MYSTERY IS OUR STRENGTH IN THIS MOMENT.

WE RISK TO GET LOST AMONGST MANY BIG COUNTRIES.

BEING THE LAST MYSTERY WILL HELP US, BUT WE SHOULD DO IT IN A WAY THAT IT'S A MYSTERY, BUT IT'S POSSIBLE TO BE ACCESSED.

♪ >> Eliza: WHEN I WAS A KID, OUR FATHER TAUGHT US TO SAY "RROFTE SHIPERIA."

I REALIZE NOW IT'S ONE THING TO SAY IT.

IT'S ANOTHER THING TO MEAN IT.

♪ WITH ALL MY LOVE, ELIZA.

♪ ♪