Drive By History
Drive By History: Eats -- World War I Revisited
11/10/2021 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Past DBH investigations revisited with a focus on the food
With the help of Food & Culture Historian Dr Libby O'Connell, Host Ken Magos revisits past DRIVE BY HISTORY investigations with a focus on the food, specifically seeking recipes and menus that would appeal to today's palate. With the help of a professional chef, he recreates some of history's most delicious and often forgotten dishes while also discovering how these foods
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Drive By History is a local public television program presented by NJ PBS
Drive By History
Drive By History: Eats -- World War I Revisited
11/10/2021 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
With the help of Food & Culture Historian Dr Libby O'Connell, Host Ken Magos revisits past DRIVE BY HISTORY investigations with a focus on the food, specifically seeking recipes and menus that would appeal to today's palate. With the help of a professional chef, he recreates some of history's most delicious and often forgotten dishes while also discovering how these foods
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[Music] Next, discover recipes from World War One largely forgotten over the decades, that are not only historic, but almost seem timely today.
OK, Libby, Im curious, what have you got here?
- Ive got some recipes... - OK ...and I picked them out.
[Laughter] Did you know that our nation went meatless and wheatless in 1917?
And that Woodrow Wilson had a series of recipes developed so removing meat and wheat from your diet would be pleasing to your palate.
- Woodrow Wilson appoints Herbert Hoover... to be head of the United States Food Administration.
- Wait a minute...the same Herbert Hoover who later became President?
- Yeah,the guy who becomes President.
- OK Discover the flavors and aromas that, thanks to Wilson and Hoover, filled American kitchens, so meat and wheat could be shipped overseas.
Then, follow along as Chef Melissa prepares these plates.
- It smells amazing.
- Yeah.
- Are we almost there?
- Yes.
And, see how she transforms 100 year old recipes into new American cuisine by looking at the ingredients from a different angle.
[Sound of Mixer] Thats next on Drive By History... - Mmmm ...Eats [Sound Effect] [Music] Made possible by: Sun Basket.
[Music] Organic carrots... purple potatoes.. steaks for the grill... all ingredients from the kitchens of Chef Justine at Sun Basket.
Ready to heat meals and meal kits.
Sun Basket meal delivery.
Information at Sunbasket.com [Music] Every day thousands of motorists pass by countless history markers and say to themselves, "”One of these days, Im gonna stop and read that.
"” If you watch Drive By History you know thats how every episode begins.
I start with a history marker, then go on an investigation to find out what happened and why it mattered.
What you dont know is that the food...or the "“eats"” often plays into that part of the history, but theres just not enough time to chew on that part of the past.
And that got me thinking... why not revisit that history, but with a focus on the food.
This is Drive By History: Eats.
[Music] The investigation were revisiting today involves WWI, particularly events on the homefront that were either kept secret or were all but lost to history.
My travels at the time took me to Jersey City, New Jersey where I discovered German saboteurs had staged a stealth attack against the United States right here on American soil.
Known as the Explosion at Black Tom, it was one of the worst terror attacks in American history.
Author Ron Semple detailed how very serious it was.
[Music] - The Statue of Liberty looks like its quite a ways off there in the distance.
- This was damaged from this explosion?
- Sure, it was peppered by shrapnel, and the arm was seriously damaged.
- So this is why you cant go up in the torch.
- Thats exactly correct.
- Thats interesting...I never knew why, but I knew that... - Yeah we werent able to go up there because of damage.
The explosion felt like a 5.5 magnitude earthquake, and rocked neighborhoods as far away as Maryland.
But thats hardly the only aspect of WWI that we dont hear much about.
We also dont hear that much about WWIs impact on food and how our nation ate.
in 1917, President Woodrow Wilson issued a call to action for all Americans on the homefront.
Farms across Western Europe had either been ravaged by war or become fields of battle.
[Music] To help our allies, as well as our own soldiers overseas, Americans were asked to sacrifice, to go meatless and wheatless at least one day per week.
Food and Culture Historian Dr. Libby OConnell, author of The American Plate, is also a scholar of The Great War, and was appointed by President Obama to our nations World War One Commission.
She picks up the story from her home in Lloyd Harbor, New York.
[Music] - So, 1917... - Yeah... - the United States is joining World War One.
- OK - Its been raging in Europe, and around the world, actually for 3 years, and Woodrow Wilson appoints Herbert Hoover to be head of the United States Food Administration.
- Wait a minute...the same Herbert Hoover who later became President?
- Yeah, the guy who becomes President.
- OK. - Right.
Hoover realized that if Americans cut meat and wheat out of their diets at least one day a week, the United States would be able to send massive amounts of food to our allies, and the front lines.
To achieve that goal, Hoover commissioned countless recipes, alternatives for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
And then he launched a massive campaign in conjunction with the nations Committee for Public Information to get those recipes into every American home.
- They worked together to get the word out to everyone.
- They have posters, they have newsreels... and recipes are being printed in ladies magazines, in local bulletins, theyre being posted at the library.
The campaign encouraged Americans to cut back on a few other things, too... staples, such as sugar and butter... they were also needed elsewhere.
- And this is really important - Mmhmm - Our allies, particularly the British and the French, were getting really short on food for their civilians.
and for their soldiers.
- Mmhmm - We were worried that people werent gonna keep that energy up for fighting.
Libby tells me that Hoovers campaign had tremendous impact.
And it transformed him into a household name, with Americans ready and willing to "“Hooverize"” or economize on food.
But what about the actual recipes?
What did Herbert Hoover have us eating as a nation instead of meat?
- OK, Libby, Im curious... what have you got here?
- Ive got some recipes - OK [Laughter] - and I picked them out, alright [Laughter] - and I think theyre good examples of the type of recipes that were being -distributed - OK - through cookbooks, through magazines.
- This ones from The Ladies Home Journal June 1918 - It says Cottage Cheese Sausage - Thats right, well... - Youre making sausage out of cottage cheese?
[Laughter] - Well, its not really sausage.
- What youre making is a patty - OK - of chopped peanuts and cottage cheese - with a little bit of chopped onions and... - OK - some bread crumbs.
- When during the day would you be serving cottage cheese sausage?
- Is this breakfast?
- Well, this could be a..a... - a luncheon dish, or a main... - OK - course in a dinner.
- OK. - This was your one day a week that you were asked to give up meat.
- It wasnt like the way they were eating generally, Americans at this time, which would have been, you know, meat 3 times a day.
- Gotcha.
- Every day of the week.
- And this is a sound diet.
- Yes, its very nutritional, - its inexpensive, so people can afford this.
- There were other recipes, just to let you know, - like macaroni and cheese.
Thats meatless.
- OK, yeah.
- And still enjoyed today.
- Still enjoyed today.
[Laughter] - But I wanted you to see that there were some that... - Oh, thats wonderful.
- we...that didnt last after World War One.
- This certainly is going to make you feel like youre - giving up your meat for your country.
- at least one day a week.
- Well, and I guess if your - neighbors are also joining in on the effort... - There was a lot of pressure.
- ...you feel good about it.
- You know, I mean we talk about peer pressure, - there was peer pressure during World War One - to abide by this idea of meatless days of the week.
- OK, what else is on our menu?
- I have Bean and Tomato Stew.
- That sounds pretty good.
- It does sound good, doesnt it - and its a good example of... - an inexpensive but really nutritious meal - Yeah.
- for people on their meatless day.
- This is another example of - Yeah.
- a recipe that would have been encouraged by the - government and published so that everybody could - get ahold of it at no cost.
- They werent having to buy cookbooks - But then everyone, regardless of their socioeconomic level - could participate in this act of patriotism.
- Yes.
And I think people felt good about it.
- Yeah.
- I think its a really good - example of how food can be a point - that makes people come together.
- Yes.
[Music] Plenty of Americans enjoy meatless and wheatless meals today.
But, will these recipes, developed over 100 years ago, stand the test of time, and still appeal to todays palate?
To find out, I turn to Chef Melissa Fairchild Clark who immediately expressed concern, pushing back at a key ingredient.
- I just find that cottage cheese is - relatively polarizing.
Cottage cheese wasnt the only item that landed in Melissas no mans land.
As youre about to find out, when I sent her the full list of ingredients, the whole thing sounded alarm bells.
- When I received them, - Yep - they fell under what category my generation - calls "“struggle meals.
"” - OK. - And... - its a funny thing, but its not a good thing.
- No.
- The peanut butter itself - though sent me somewhere... - different than America.
- Ahh...OK - Um...so, American peanut butter... - the way that the recipe read was very... - peculiar to me.
- OK. - But, if you take peanut butter and put it in a Thai or - Vietnamese perspective... - Right.
- it makes all the sense in the world.
- Right.
- So... - that is where I went with this - OK - Im starting out with a bit of peanut butter - OK. - as our base, - and then I swapped out the bread crumbs for Panko.
- OK. - So youre still in the same family, same idea.
- Exactly.
- Um, I swapped out cooked rice for coconut rice, - which will add a little bit of moisture as well.
- Right, and take us into that.. - Keeps us - Thai area, too.
- Yeah, right back in Thailand.
- And then I swapped out cottage cheese for paneer.
- Ahh, I love that.
- So I see what youre doing then...youre taking this very - American recipe from World War One - and adding in some Asian elements.
- Exactly.
- Youre kind of creating a fusion.
- Exactly.
- Um, and then I swapped out the sage and the thyme - for cumin and coriander.
- OK. - Theres a little bit of baking soda in here as well.
- So youre staying in that same Asian profile.
- Exactly.
- Gotcha.
- Yes, yes, really trying to create continuity there.
- And then just a little bit of chopped onion... - OK. - add a little bit of spice... - potentially a little bit of crunch.
- Yeah.
- Um, and then weve just got one egg... - necessary to bind it - Gotcha.
- so that it doesnt fall apart in the pan.
- OK. [Music] - And thats all of our ingredients.
- And then we just have to... [Sound of Mixer] - Alright, so were just mixing all of this up in the mixer - so that it becomes really well blended with the egg?
- Exactly.
- OK. - We just want to make it homogenous so that it will - stick together as a cake so that we can fry it easily.
- So about how long do you want to mix this?
- About 30 seconds, just until it looks homogenous.
- OK, its looking pretty good to me...you good?
- I think it looks great, yeah.
- Alright, lets go ahead and turn that off.
- Great.
- So, I see youve sliced some cucumbers up here... - so, what are we going to do with them?
- So, essentially what youre doing is getting the cucumbers - into a salad form so that you can easily macerate them.
- Ah, OK. - We have a little bit of rice - wine vinegar...Im gonna hit this with maybe 2 tablespoons - OK, again staying with the Asian influence.
- Yes, yes, and you want to use unseasoned because we actually - are going to season the vinegar ourselves.
- OK, important point.
- And then were going to hit it with 1 teaspoon of sesame oil.
- Ah.
- Sesame oils...it can be - a little strong and pungent so we really dont need very much.
- And then... - Im going to have about a half teaspoon of salt - and then a full teaspoon of sugar.
- Ah, so youve got the salty and the sweet.
- Yes.
And then the vinegar is obviously going to cut that - really nicely...and then just a good pinch of sesame seeds - I would say... - you know, a teaspoon and a half would be plenty.
- OK. - And then Im just going to mix this up so that everything - can macerate and get interesting.
- And then the longer you leave this, - the better its going to taste.
- Whats the minimum, because I can...I can smell it already... - Um.... - I want to taste it.
- I would say once youre done frying off... - Its good to go.
- your, yeah, youre good to go.
- OK, perfect.
- OK, so this is ready to go... - let me get this out of your way.
- Great, I will grab this bowl.
- There you go.
- If you can hand me a plate to prep out of.
- Sure, Ive got some plates right here.
- Thank you.
- Ill put that there for you.
- Gorgeous.
And then its just a matter of starting to - form the patties.
- Ahh.
- I would say about like a 2 tablespoon scoop is - going to be a nice...you know... - 2 to 3 bite portion.
- OK. - Are they going to retain their size once theyre cooked?
- Yes, they dont lose anything.
- Perfect.
- So let me get this out of your way.
- I think were ready to fry it off.
- So I just put a couple tablespoons of - peanut oil in here.
- Right.
- And then, once it is shimmering and preheated, - I am just going to take the patty and plunk it in.
- Great.
- And then were frying for maybe... [Music] - 2 minutes per side.
- OK. - Yeah.
- And you want to keep them separated so that - they can cook eventy.
- Yeah, exactly [Music] - Ah, I can see them sizzling away.
- Yes.
- Alright, those look like theyre almost done.
- Yes, can I have a plate please?
- Sure.
- Ill do a quick drain.
- Absolutely.
- And Ill pull these out.
- The smell is amazing.
- Yeah.
- I can smell the herbs that you put in there.
- Warm peanut butter is pretty pleasant... - Is that what it is...yeah.
- I have to say...yeah.
[Music] - OK. - And then from here I will just - cut that flame.
- Great...perfect.
- And we will start to plate these.
- OK. - So Im just going to... theyre still quite warm but - Im just gonna put 3 on a plate.
- And then we cut to our gorgeous cucumber salad - Wow.
- Im just gonna give that a final zhuzh.
- I see that youre even plating it with your hands here.
- Yes, a chefs best tool are 2 clean hands... - Perfect.
- Emphasis on clean.
- Youre making my mouth water with the smell... - and the look of this...it looks delicious.
- Yeah, I like to... - I cant wait to try these.
- keep it bright, light and bright.
[Music] - So I see were all set up here for our second dish, - the Bean and Tomato Stew.
- Yes.
So Im just going to add a little bit of oil to the pot.
- This dish was...I was glad to see it.
- It is very much... - a dish that Im... - It didnt seem odd to me.
- Yeah, I make my clients a version of this all the time.
- Right.
- Its just a more built-out version.
- OK. - So Im adding a bit of garlic, - carrot, - celery, - and onion to the pot, - OK. - just to sweat those out, - which is really just to say - make them a little bit translucent - OK. - and cook them a little bit.
- Youre not looking for color.
- Gotcha.
[Sizzling Sound] - Alright, so those have been sweating for about 5 minutes.
- Yeah, they look great.
- Yeah.
- The onions have gone a bit translucent.
- OK. - Thats your marker.
- And it smells amazing.
- So now...yes... - I am going to add about a tablespoon of tomato paste.
- Great.
- You always want to cook your tomato paste to kind of - fry it...sear it... - OK. - It gets rid of that acidity that is inherent within it, - and makes it a little bit sweeter.
- OK, so thats cooking away, whats next?
- Thats cooking away.
This is a good time to season it, so... - a healthy amount of salt, - Yeah.
- and, if you can hand me the pepper grinder... - Sure, absolutely, there you go - well do a few cracks of that - Yeah, I love pepper.
- Keep going then?
- Go for it!
Yes!
[Laughter] - Since I get to taste it... - And there we go.
- And then... - once thats completely incorporated, - we will hit it with the roasted red peppers - that I have chopped up as well.
- Nice.
[Music] - Alright, ready for next steps?
- Yeah, now we can really make it a stew.
- OK. - So, I am gonna come in with - 2 cups of homemade vegetable stock.
- Ah.
- which is something that... - I just...I have a ton of vegetable scraps all the time - In all likelihood, if you eat your vegetables - you are going to have everything in your freezer - that allows you to make your own.
- And how long does vegetable stock stay good?
- I freeze mine, so... - Oh, so you... - in perpetuity.
- Oh wow, OK. - Yeah.
- Um, and the last thing Im gonna hit it with is... - a bunch of cannellini beans.
- and then well just let this kind of stew in here [Music] - Um, so yeah, were just gonna let this come to a simmer - and stew for... - Right.
- about 20 minutes.
- and then once the flavors have really melded together - we will hit it with that chiffonaded kale - Wonderful.
- Just to get it wilted in there - and then your... Bobs your uncle.
- The smells amazing.
- Yeah.
- Are we almost there?
- Yes...good... - And you know what?
- I have a ladle.
- Ah, thank you.
- Set this aside.
- And... - So, the original recipe that Libby pulled was a very - low cost alternative for families back in 1918.
- For sure.
- But thats also true today.
- This is an incredibly nutritious meal.
- Absolutely.
- And not terribly expensive to make.
- Exactly.
Exactly.
- If you can pass me the toasts that I made - ahead of time.
- Yes, absolutely.
- And Im just going to finish this... - Beautiful bread.
- with a bit of lemon zest to add that last dash of brightness - Yeah.
- And then Im gonna hit it with a bit of parsley as well - Again, bright green - Its a good way to finish this off.
- And voila - Its beautiful and it smells amazing.
- So this has been quite the culinary bootcamp - that Melissa has put together for us, with these - World War One recipes.
- However, I happen to know that Libby has more in store for us.
- And as I imagined, you have one more recipe.
- I do.
I have one for dessert.
- And actually its not just a dessert.
- The recipe was developed by The Red Cross - with the government - to make a cake that could be shipped.
- People were shipping cakes and food products over to their... - sons, husbands, - brothers over in the...on the European Theater.
- We dont think of that happening, - but it took about 6 weeks.
- So, they developed a recipe - for a raisin cake that would, when well-wrapped, - arrive and still be OK to eat.
- So Im imagining being a soldier overseas, - you receive this care package from home, - and its something sweet, in both senses of the word.
- Yeah, I mean its sending love to somebody whos going - through a pretty tough time.
- World War One was a very hard... - catastrophic war.
- Yeah.
- um, and our soldiers were witnesses to just... - terrible bloodletting and people losing limbs and... - it was a very...um... - confrontational war.
- Right.
So a little bit of home coming to you - Yes, going to our flyboys, going to the guys who - fought in the trenches.
- Now Libby, you know that some of the criticism of these - wheatless and meatless dishes at the time were that they were - ...a little bit eatless.
[Laughter] - Well, there was criticism that some of these were - low on taste.
- Mmhmm.
- But remember, were... theyre asking people to - make this sacrifice, - OK. - and people, I think, you know, stepped up for it.
- So, this recipe that Libby gave us is wheatless, - so its great for anybody with a gluten allergy.
- Absolutely.
- But its also milkless, butterless... - Yes.
- and eggless...but Im seeing 4 eggs right there.
- Yes, I took a little bit of creative license - and I added eggs back in.
- Theyre a perfect binding agent.
- Works for me.
- Yes.
- Alright, lets get started.
- Great.
So the first thing that were gonna do is - add the eggs.
- OK. - And then Im going to add a half a cup of sugar.
- OK. - And then we just want to cream these together.
- Huh... - Oh, let me plug it in for you, hold on, sorry [Laughter] [Sound of Mixer] - OK...so... - Alright, whats next?
- The next thing we are going to stream in...lemon juice, zest, - and a bit of vanilla extract.
- Oh wow.
- And then also the olive oil [Sound of Mixer] - as this is an olive oil cake.
- Ah... - So, it keeps it moist.
- Yes, very moist -- no fear of that.
[Sound of Mixer] - Alright.
- OK. Now we are going to add our flours.
- Um, so I have almond flour here, - Ah... - and this...not a very easy one to come by back then.
- No, I would imagine.
- Yeah.
- Then theres also millet flour [Sound of Mixer] - And these are wheatless - Yes - Theres no grain in these.
- None.
- None at all.
And then baking powder and baking soda.
- And then were all done.
- So youve got some wheat replacements that are in this, - Yes.
- the almond flour, the millet flour.
- Yes.
- What are they replacing from the original ingredients?
- They are replacing corn meal.
- Ah...and thoughts on... corn meal would have been more - available back then?
- Yes.
[Sound of Mixer] - Its looking like a batter.
- Yeah, the consistency of this looks great - So Im gonna... - Great.
- cut it, and we can - OK - move it over to... - our prepared pan - Great.
Im gonna move that out of your way.
- Thank you.
- Im also going to give you this bit.
- Sure, yep, - let me put this over here.
- And we will... - Excellent.
- dump this out.
[Music] - Wonderful.
Im gonna move the too while were at it.
- Gorgeous, thank you.
- Youre welcome.
- Yeah, that looks amazing.
- Yeah.
[Music] - OK, so the cake cooked for about 45 minutes.
- We let it cool for about an hour.
- Mmhmm.
- And now its time to decorate.
I see youve got fruit there.
- Yeah.
- Flowers?
- So, we are decorating with some lemon slices, - a nod to the juice and zest thats in the cake itself.
- Gotcha.
- Blackberries, and then... - I always love to decorate with edible flowers.
- Oh nice.
OK. - Yeah.
- So how can I help you?
- OK, so, Im going to take this plate and hold it here, - and what you are gonna do is take the powdered sugar - and put it into that little duster.
- OK. [Music] - And then come over... thats probably good... - OK - come over here, and just dust - Yeah - along that edge - Ah, so were creating a little moon shape here.
- Were trying to make... -Yes, a little crease.
[Music] - One more round about, and we should be good.
- OK. - And there you go.
- Oh, nice.
- So, I love everything to be off-center, - and I am going to come in with some lemon slices, - So, as a food stylist, youre trying to give a nod then to - what the ingredients are in the cake?
- Exactly.
- OK. - You always want to represent that.
- A lot of people will put mint where it doesnt belong.
- Its almost as if all desserts contain mint.
- Right.
[Laughter] - And it is a really awesome pop of green, I will say... - But thats kinda why I bring flowers in.
- Yeah.
- Theyre beautiful and... - edible, - Mmhmm - so why not add something - I didnt know that violets were edible.
- Yes.
- OK, but Im curious, is this how you would have decorated - this cake back in 1918 to send to your soldier?
- Not to send to your soldier.
- No.
- In 1918, I think that they would have - done away with the blackberries and the lemon, - OK. - Those are not gonna travel well.
- But what you could do with the violets specifically - is you could sugar them, - which is...you paint them with a little bit of simple syrup, - and then either dip them or dust them, - sprinkle a little bit of granulated sugar on there.
- OK. - And it looks beautiful - and kind of preserves the flower a little bit, so that - would have traveled well.
- And a little bit of candy going with the cake.
- Exactly, yes.
- Nice.
- Well, I cant wait to dig in and try this.
- Me either.
[Laughter] [Music] - Again, we reach my favorite part of the day [Laughter] - So, after cooking all this food we finally get to taste it - Yes...yeah.
- Can I interest you in an hors doeuvres, madame?
- I mean, absolutely and always - Lets go for it...alright.
- OK. - Cheers!
[Music] - Those are amazing.
- And I can taste the cumin and the coriander - Mmhmm - Its got a little spice underneath - Yeah - I can taste the peanut butter - Mmm - Yeah - And I think the texture of the rice is really nice.
- Mmhmm - The coconut rice.
- Mmhmm - Thats what Im tasting.
- Yes.
- I get a little hit of the coconut.
- Exactly.
- This tastes...with so much Asian influence its amazing.
[Music] - OK, so that whetted my appetite.
- Yes.
- Now I want to jump into this, the Tomato and Bean Stew.
- Alright.
- You can go ahead with a spoon - Im gonna have scarpetta with this.
- Oh... [Laughter] - Good for you.
[Laughter] - Yes.
- Alright.
- There we go.
[Music] - Mmm... - Yeah.
- Thats amazing.
- Yeah.
- Its hearty...but its still bright.
- It feels appropriate for any any season, to my mind.
- Absolutely.
- Thats amazing.
I can taste a little bit of the acidity.
- Mmhmm.
- I can taste the...the celery - The celerys really coming through.
- Yeah.
- So this is a recipe that was put out by our government - back in 1918, and as a meatless recipe.
- But I dont feel like Im missing anything.
- Alright.
- And cake time.
-OK. [Laughter] - I am ready.
- Whos ever not ready for cake?
- And this is the recipe that was intended to be mailed - and sit for 3 days before you eat it.
- Yes.
- Now, I know you swapped out the corn meal - with almond flour and millet flour?
- I did, yes.
- I think the reason that the recipe was like that - was because the corn meal was going to take more time - to hydrate, so having those days of lag time - the cake actually arrived as it was intended to be eaten.
- Got it.
- Whereas, today we dont need that kind of lag time.
- In fact... - Im sorry, I couldnt wait any longer... - Its delicious.
- No, and thats why - we dont need that lag time.
- Mmhmm.
- We need it now.
[Laughter] - It is so moist.
- Thank you.
Good.
- But its flavorful - I can taste the lemon - Mmhmm - The lemons really coming through in this.
- Yeah - Boy thats good.
- Alright, cheers!
Well done, maam.
- Thank you.
Well they say that history has a habit of repeating itself.
Thats certainly the case when it comes to wheatless and meatless meals, found on tables across America today.
During World War One, meatless meals were considered a sacrifice.
Little did they know that just over a century later, Meatless dishes would be popular, and even preferred by some.
And as Melissa showed us today, absolutely delicious.
Well see you next time.
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